The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 13, 1902, Page 10

S 3 2eLUE MADRAS WITH Bacay SLEEVES Skirts 2nd Gowrs That Rre Both Servigeable end Ritragiive. HE is really nothing q serviceable f summ. tub frocks. They are exqui dainty, vastly becoming an cheap or expen desires or their pocke always in the musli of the “at home" best field of endeavor, known to prac important tha possible to have for it pole. exper rhould be sufiicien tion of almost ious s outfit is often a difficult matter ted to tell which and which are for evenings. Apparent the first appearance in public a most elaborate costume h all man- nef and sorts of trimmings. Still, the pecple who reall; d an ordinary mo different from the co worn in the aftern mal enterts W popular than ever before and there are stores and stores of thin fa but by me strange freak of D: Fashion she has vnfortunately set a heavy lining into th things, and that rend. warm as any others. The smartest and most convenient, not to meption the most ble, morning s a well-cut, hung skirt of duck or linen, with a pretty shirt fst of the same color and perhaps very same materfal. That is re that should be considered necessary cales and ging s, especially th gmghams, are particuiarly effective maude up in this hion. What trimming is require of inexpensi embroidery, and the pler the suit, the dasntier and more becoming it is apt to be. A duck skirt is pretty when there are three graduated flounces and each one ered with a narrow pie The fi front almest t the fullnes: , or for some for- me them quite as y are back, and ould corr: In front verely plain, but they s until they appear like perfect ripp Whern worn with a shirt waist nothing ceuld be more approp whe think of the eter: s of t they are cons ed § about the thing. A black jacket, espec nd for thc roper lly those bcbby, little things that remind one of all vokes and som e made for the duck, and the co mzkes one look more The Gibson suit h. color only than ever. been more popular than anything else, perhaps. And there are two good r that woman who does not want to appear broad, strong and muscular a thing of the past, and these waists certainly make on¢ look broader, if they do nothing else. The extra piece that extends over the snoulders and that fits snugly into the waistband gives that satisfactory taper- ing effect that has taken such a hold oa the fancy of this summer’s girl. The skirt may or may not be long. That is entirely a fancy of the wearer. Neither dces she demand a collar of any sort or condition. A soft strip of the same mate- rial is often used, or a tiny piece of white len smothered with lace and insertion, but more often than not a stock of a mere piece of ribbon answers the purpose to all intents and purposes Many very attractive designs are seen in the flowered and figured effects, but for the moment the plain colors are by far the most fashionable. Naturally plain waterials require more trimming, and consequently they are far more expensive, easons 1 Suits From Magnin & Co. Poses by Ethel Strachan, Thaater. UUMNER FROCAS FOR PoiNT D'ESPRIT TRIMMED wiTH NARROW BLACK VELVET Central SRGANDY WITH BILLOWS: OF LAcCE aAaTND but on the other hand-one is not nearly as apt to get deadly tired of, them before the season is over. Instead of silks for linings, it is much more the fashion to make up thin mate- rials over lawns. If silk is used it is not a SUff, rustling.one, but a soft, clinging India or surah to gain the soft, draped effect so much in demand at present. Madras is much used both for morning and afternoon frdeks. One of the prettiest is made in a rather simple fashion. The skirt has a flounce that is a little bit breader in the back than in the front. Irstead of being plain there is a perfect lire of tucks about an inch apart which ertirely encircles the skirt. That gives a great deal of fullness about the feet and when it is washed does not shrink to the skimpy state. The waist is made somewhat on the shirtwaisg line. There are the same quan- tity of tucks, but they run in clusters of three. A little vest effect of white linen solidly tucked gives a dash of color that just seem’s necessary. A broad sailor col- lar edged with lace, and that narrows un- til it folds into the front beit, finishes it neatly and daintily. Worth once said that a touch of black often just saved a frock from the com- monplace—that is, if one knew just whers to put that all-saving bit. In this gown it holds the collar together, and it also en- circles the waist, for ne what color NATUR AL PONGEE WITH BLACK INSERTION AND FRENCH KNOTS may be chose or makes the st | as black. And when you 3 - a belt get a double-faced satin If you vant it to cling, but choose a velvet if you want to be in the style. Pongee has come in again and with vengeance. And_after all is there : thing as cool and refreshing as_that ported silk? A charming morning f is made with three box pleats on either side of the waist and between them from the shoulder down is set in three little ones that have the tiniest black buttons on them that can be imagined. The skirt has three strips of black insertion on it and there is a piece which encircles th throat and which runs down the very front pleat of the waist. Al told it is a very fetching little outfit and when w by a girl with a good figure'it is set off to its very best advantage. For afternoons are silks, lace gowr also lace and muslin or lace and batist These last are the most elaborate and it is not rare to see great medallions of the finest batiste embroidered in silk and outlined with real lace. These gowns are very expensive and are very beautiful, but they are not quite as smart as those that are made of lace and chiffon com- bined or perhaps of two or three kinds of lace. " Ong of .the smartest ideas of all the lace toats of Chantilly, appliqued net or tulle. While they are absolutely sep- arate from the gown, it would hardly look complete Without it, as they are generally made to,wear with the coat. It seems a little queer, particularly for San Franciscans, to get accustomed to the low-cut gowns in public places, but these unlined jackets are worn over low iinings, and they really are rathef con- sg!cuous. Anything that is sheer and thin could not fail to be decidedly notice- able. The little lace bolero has been relegated to the past by the great majority of peo- ple, but after all there is nothing prettier or more fitting than ome of these tiny Jackets over a muslin or chiffon gown. It oftentimes adds just the little something that is needed, and besides all this a dress that could not brag of a single frill or furbelow would pick up its head and consider itself quite elaborate when that all-covering, -concealing Jjacket was donned. Dimity is a splendid materfal when it comes right down to service, and par- ticularly the black and white. It will Wear almost forever, notwithstanding ail kinds of mfh usage in the laundry. A le little costume Has but five rows of Valenciennes about the skirt, but that same skirt is extremely full, being almost pleated in at the belt. The. waist is plain. Absolutely so. But the collar of linen, lace and insertion which falls half way down the back and drops in cascades in the front makes it loock anything but severe. And another thing about these tub clothes, ‘Few of them are made with long sleeves. What the summer girl has against them s unknown, but neverthe- less nine out of ten waists have the dainty little ones that fall just below the elbow and that are finished with a ruffle of the matferial and generally a bow of black velvet. A novel thing that has been introduced for these gowns In the place of the petti- coat has taken a hold on the fickle fancy of the fluffy lady. It is a yoke with bands running down to below the hips or some- times between the hips and the knees, any length that seems most comfartable for the wearer. These bands are at- tached to a full skirt with any kind of trimmings that the designer may fancy. The result is the full rippling effect about the feet, but with no added fullness about the hips. For.stout people the result is good, and in any case it helps the girl along who is striving to get the clingfng, narrow style that the divine Sara set a-going. Point d'esprit is another swell material and it is sheer and cool as well. The gsown may be merely outlined and any color put on to show it off that one ckooses. A narrow black satin ribbon is more effective than anything elsey but that makes the external black and white, which has been worn more than anything else for several years, and which is, after all, quite the swellest of anything that has yet been discovered. Braid is a fashionable trimming, and next in favor is a band of dotted taffeta, which is much used in trimming plain celers. A pale blue or a pink on a white gown is always dainty, as is also a vivid red on a créam or black background. And speaking of trimmings reminds one that buttons are very much used. Either large or small, the silver, gold or the pearl, and they may be laced together with a cord of various colors or with a narrow rib- bon. 5 White always bas been and always will be used; and it always will be sweet and dainty. While a white frock may be made up this or that way, i always has a littla sameness to it. And the reason for that is that there really are not such a variety of wdys to make them up. There is the yoke effect with the lace ruffle and then again it is plain and straight. No matter bow it is made to be pretty and sweet, it should be very, very fluffy, and there shculd be billows and billows of lace and iusertion there. Wash silks are cool but they are not as much used this year as they were last. They wear just as long and are not stiff 2nd do not crumple as do the wash materials that have starch in them: The laundryman will put in just a .wee bit of starch to hold them out a little, but they arc never stiff. In_all respects they atre thoroughly serviceajle, as they can be put in the tub quite as often s any pique or linen., - All told, whether it be a brilliantine or a pongee, or whether it be a pique or a lawn that comprises a summer outing gown. just so long as it is a tub material, it is fashionable, and what is more to the point sometimes, serviceable.