The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 13, 1902, Page 2

00SEVE AUGUSTA PRESCOTT coat sleeve style. At present a_gown ade _pretty 1 rment by the sleeve it bears blue, had a s The President’s Wife Sets a Pretty Style in Outer Wear— No Sooner Has Woman Built Attractive chiffon, lace The silk w gey and hung low, and over this there chiffon, while ne portion which came ne bat which is for n \in rubber, and it comes in many the prettiest of which is a pearl used coachin outing wear of all kind 1y the light Silk and of ¢ or a pretty one prefers. The nicest of these long rubber coat cut in sweep length and are s the neck and around the wris A nice black velvet collar ry ‘ornamental HE summer coat will be long and tanding collar. s can be turned back, if rubber lined there will Je no dam- sudden rainfall. as to make ack velvet cu but also_for sun and for a g protection. ou would never suspect you put your hands upon it to feel Ting must be dre The Outing Coat. racing coat but it is not neci arily a sporty coat Lifting th may be in ay or in pilgrim medium shade of green. v blue, or in modest vio- let cloth, or in brown. But if it be a three- quarter length it will be called a racing coat. One of the models shows a ladylike plainness. There is no trimming, of any kind. But the coat hangs straight from the neck downward. It is single breasted and it_button: <hion under a flap. The nec which turn back, not 100 low, and when buttoned the coat 1ooks quite masculine, but thrown back it is sportive to the last degree. The feature of the racing’ coat is its lightness, its comfort, its grace and its style. There are few women who cannot wear it to great advantage. A wide singie k at each side of the front makes, in some cases, its only trimming. There are very ladylike coats in light cloth to wear when one drives. Those who walk can wear them over an after- noon gown. They can be lifted along with the skirt and they are becoming to all figures. loose back s strapped in many of the new models. The back, which hangs straight, is confined with a wide strap which reaches from under the arm seam to_under the arm seam. 3 Pockets, like sleeves, are eccentric, and they are set in the skirts of the long ¢oats in many ways, one of the prettiest of which is the diagonal method. The open- ing is cut diagonally, and over it, in the flap part, there is a handsome bit of lace and a fancy button. On other coats the flap is cut long and pointed, making a sort of trimming of itself. On almost all the long coats one notices the length. The coat gs, actually sweeps the. street, and it must be held up as one would hold up a long skirt. Cool for Summer. The day of the lined coat has gone by though the importers say that it will turn in cold weather 2 At pr the aim is to make the coat as light and as thin as possible, and as cool; and this is done by using thin materials, unlined. The long coat, the newest long coat, is ‘lecidedly “upon’ the order described ' as modish. It is elaborately trimmed, or if not so freely trimmed it is cut elaborately and it sets’into the figure and dresses it up so well. Tall women look graceful in the long coat; little women look chic and even cunning. Besides pongee and silk one sees pop- lin, brilliantine and the heavier grades of canvas, all used in making the coat which now holds sway. In the three-quarter lengths there are very pretty things, one of them being the stréight English coats, either boxed or unboxed. A model in deep green silk was joined down the back, in a middle seam. It hung as_straight as could be. ‘The sleceves were wide and were I with lace. They are so big as to suggest the dolman shape, indeed, the whole garment bore a striking resemblance to the dolman. Around the neck there was a deep flounce of silk with many cordings at the top. The graceful three-quarter silk coat, cut =0 curiously like a dolman, yet suggesting in some poses a mnegligee, is the coat which will be slipped on summer even- ings, It {s one of the few of the gar- ments of summer that do not hide the gown and women are showing their grat- itude by patronizing it. The little straight coat is prettiest in black, and, Indeed, what garment is not? But it is also good in white and in browns and in green it is extremely good, espe- cially if it match or bear some relation to the gown with which it is worn. How very comfortable the season is for [Jh woman who can act as re In the tailor-made days it was a task to make a gown and féw dresses successtully. stitching of the seams, the strapping, the uttin the The ;xgems‘u%righ: lines were all difficult to make the maneuver, besides there was the snugness of the shoulder and waist to be considered. Now, with the full and flowing sleeve ilor collar, and with the hit-or- the burden of home ng is taken away. So wli;th the coat, especially the little It is positively easy to achieve, and one glance at a fashion model will give the home dressmaker her keynote. It is so sweet to say that simplicity But, oh, if it were true. ic far from being so, and countless shir- rings, innumerable tucks, often so small as to be of the pin variety, make havoe of Then there is the fam- through bands and and the s: mis; dress: ona of silk or cloth. rules. time and fingers. ily of applique which knows | Fussy is almost the word one might apply to the gowns and to the cloaks, but it is not exactly descriptive. immense amount of work, but they are not too heavily trimmed for beauty, and through the whole motif there runs some- thing decidedly artistic. Artists say that there was never a time when gowns were so truly built along art Long and straight everything must Le and trimmings must borrow this same general ‘tone. They involve an lines. Women are and narrower and grace is given a chance. Hideous indicatio: re are of the re- turn of the ball and of the com- ing of the j developm of the bu 3 he we shall oy 1 r ange, bu now one shrinks in affright from the broadening lines. Skirts Are Long and Narrow. On some of the new gowns there are tucks that g the way around the skirt, but th e so_artistically that one does about em They are wide and aré stitched flat, or they are so very iook like cording But let the woman who is too wide be careful of the round-and-round tuck, for it will mean her ruin. A word must always be said for: the latest bolero. There is one now that is made of cloth. The model shown was in leaf green serge. It was a very fine serge and very ladylike In surface, mot rough y little bolero was cut off at t it was no longer s box-plaited and the plaits were small, with three each side of the front. The_ sleeves were very were boy so t flowing sty ull and they ack and were cut om the arm in elbow sleeves and were u : them cooler. A shirt waist, ly of accor- dion-plaited chiffon over taffeta, was worn under this. The sleeves were very full and ery long and were finished with a little One can imagine that such a little bo- lero in silk would be vastly pretty and in satin, or berty, or even surah, it would s 1l and be dressy. The object of cutting off a little bolero at the bust line and box plaiting it is te make it set out. - It.gives the full bust. which is so pretty, and the waist by con- trast seems smaller. W en have always tried to diminish the size of their waist line. The full on the balloon type, were liked they made the wals k_little, and row fz n tting toward the gul g to make the front baggy. Scarlet Goes With Tan. As the season deepens the popularity of tan is evident. It comes in every shade and one can scarcely pick out the pretti- e shade is so much liked e leather tones. The bum t again every year and th: as ecru always olor and- bisque, nefther scru, yet suggesting it are both to be observed in the new gowns and their trimmings. Where a ¢ like tan or its eous- uch of pply this like red, red in its most seen and there is ge is too con- no su spicuou t warm enough. It is T 7 time. to be worn with long sweep length are made of arranted to e; and over the bottom ere is buttoned a lace flounce is as deep as the er: and it is buttoned all the way around the skirt, full, lacey, be- coming and feminine to the last degree Under the lace flounce the silk petticoat shows. The Countes: i wore a few days ago a white t in_lawn, rather elab- orately tucked from the yoke to the belt The new pe are decidedly a heavy, dur: wear a little and around but_with a ck made entire of lace whic a little off th white. Tt a cream, yet was differe: from the white lawn. r The different shades of white are com- bined with tell effect. White taffeta shirt walsts trimmed with am lac rl gray lace, with ivory lace, or with ace that is the color of old lace, are al) seen in the fashionable