The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 15, 1902, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY CALL. MY LADY'S GOWN COP- l | IES NATURE OUTSIDE AND IS SPRAYED AND SPRIGGED AND ROSE- TRIMMED MRS. CLEVE- | LAND FAITHFUL TO BLUE AND BLACK—WHAT TO DO WHEN ONE HAS ONLY A SINGLE DINNER GOWN FOR THE WHOLE SEASON. MRS. BELMONT’'S LACE | FLOUNCES — THE GUESTS | AT MRS. MACKAY’S DIN- NER PARTY—NEW BELTS | FOR DAY AND DINNER | WEAR. tty feature the sum- of hers, this the pretti- n is makes who sells nd these by any e in irregular silks and some in fine h priced cotton, and pongee in buff tones marvelous green figures. lowered Stuffs. One day buy it for purchase it The bride g gown and discov- leaf green shades ream and blue. look across gee and wered with those are either m or much to everywh. > of the Yery new gh it; or ti h the buckle ilk is clasped le the bette: ver graced a New York ma- It fe drop skirt of lemon freta. r gown oc 1 over a pies an important rdrobe. Try to get e & woman of u can wear a hundred-dollar or a one-dollar one. But you er take the place costume, such a one as you arry you with credit through able summer. an with grown-up daugh- t the cumbering of her with so elaborate a cos- ed for a dinner ed and into the le toilet, which was a between the magnifi- d for a similar function e ordinary summer gown. er costume was a dear little hite k _organdie over a fleta. The walst was cut ped after the Marie Stuart at is, rounded in the back and rather low in the front. This dmit of the wearing of a lace col- be simply laid around the ned with a chou of baby The New Chou. chou, it m: The new v be mentioned, has e ms *as though but ends to it, num- nds of baby ribbon with a each, like & tiny rosette. T few loops, but the feature lies in the many little ends. The skirt was finished in the very plain- est way with little lace ruffies, put on in a manner, ris! toward the ips were snug and the skirt fell away in a long and graceful sweep. There is no denying the supremacy of white when one has not many gowns. In 2 white dress, say of chiffon, if one can 1ding risk the delicacy of this material, or in silk muslin, or in silk organdie, or in mull, or silk lawn, or all lace, or veiling, or fancy gauze, or any other of the many fabrics, one can make an excellent ap- pearance many times during the summer. Always wearing the one gown. There is a trick in the transformation of a gown. It cannot be done with bows ribbon, nor can it be accomplished by e putting on or the taking off of a lace coat. But it can be brought about by the wearing of a different lining or by the epplication of floral panels or by the hasty stitching on of a deep flounce of lace, It is said that Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, who is certainly the possessor of some of DINNER PART HAT 7 7, s & woman who rt of the floufice trim- owns several deep lace of them valuable, and differ- kind and color. at the thought lace can differ o greatly in color, one from another. There are pleces of 1 lace that are as dark and as red and others that are as white h ached on the grass and un linen was never more snowy rtain kinds of fidunce lac re are women who have never culti- a taste in lace and! who find other Is more econgmical and quite as b The New Colors. dinners one sees the new colors. In aylight, by the garish sun, one Lesi- about putting on the new tones, but the soft electric glow throws its around then the colors are made less pronounced and the tones that would be too glaring in the day are made becoming and desirable. Glacier blue is a blue that you can Not quite as cold as ice btue, light, it is still a blue that is and clear, a blue that takes cream e to soften it and a blue that must be carefully, Or the softening qualities of rose and the delights of the arbutus and orchid s. Even the watermelons that are t red, and the strawberries and cherries that are very red, sre permis- sible so long as one gets that blessed warming glow, that light that comes in with the family of reds and goes out with it. The yellows are having an inning. They are here in all their warmth, and one ees the orange and the burnt orange ading into the cool lights of the lemon nd moon yellows. Champagne, sau- terne and chartreuse yellow are the rather startling titles of three of the new shades, and in the deeper tones one sees the lovely daffodil and the yellow se, and the soft, pretty primrose and very delicate clear ambers. i= enjoying a new popularity in ng wear. It comes in a very admir- able peachy tone that, while warmer than the cold tan, is not too pinkish. and ven the dull tans are worn with pink to brighten them. It takes one back a little to see the dinner gowns in changeable gray taffeta trimmed with peach colored satin; and it certainly seems like meeting an old friend to come across the light blue silk with its up-to-date trimming of pink panne. Pink and blue are reunited after many years of separation, and rose and gray are friends again. Blue and green go courting on many.a gown, and the com- bination of purple and green is found ameng the more daring of the French gowns and in such manner that the tones of both are very light. The duennas are taking to the change- able eilks, helped out with marvelous trimmings of black lace, and white lace or lace tn ecru. One can do a great deal with a changeable silk, &s our grand- mothers discovered long ago, and a great deal is now being done with it. The Revival of the Handbag. The eilk handbag.is certainly revived urder the name of tie wrist bag. It is really a dinner ornament.as well as a street one, and particularly is it to be worn ‘with full dress. And this is a very pleasant arrange- ment. The pocket has disappeared utterly from polite soclety, and for a lady to hunt her pocket would be an unheard-of thing these days, a sight not seen, O~ So the wrist bag comes at an opportune moment. It holds the tiny handkerchief which cannot be held in the lap during dinner, and it holds any small necessity. They say thet in London it holds the snuff Lox, but one must take that with its grain ot salt, Ladies who remove the gloves at dinner can slip them into the wrist bag, and with the new gloves it looks as though their removal were a necessity. A custom introduced simultaneously in Washington and London last winter called for the slipping off the hands of the gloves, which were then tucked into the ‘sleeve of the glove, leaving the arm still covered. This had never been re- celved with favor before, but Mrs. Roose- velt did it, and Mrs. Hay did it, ana Countess Cassini, who is so popular with forelgners and natives, did it. Abroad, Mrs. Paget, and no less a personage than her graclous Majesty Queen Alexandra, followed that custom, so there was less of the peeling of the long dinner glove. It is quite the fashion to go to dinner without gloves, but customs vary with the town, and what Is correct in one city 18 not viewed favorably In another and one must watch one's neighbors and do as one’s neighbors do. Dinner Gloves. The new dinner gloves have decorations upon them. The effort to keep them per- fectly plain and buttoned with tiny pearl buttons at the wrist has partially failed. At a nice dinner given a few evenings ago by Mrs. Clarence Mackay, Long Isl- and's pretty hostess, the guests wore gloves with the backs incrusted with em- broidery of the same color as the glova and others were stitched in a fancy de- sign. The lace trimmed wrists are not mary, yet one does see the narrow rows of Valenciennes decorating the long arms of the shoulder gloves. Little tufts of rib- bon are pretty and the little sflk rosette- like tufts sometimes introduced are also becoming to the arm. The fancy for wearing the-hat at dinner is growing. It must be a picture hat and there must be a general understanding that the hat is to be worn. The head- dress dinner is responsible for this fad and the idea of wearing the hat carries with it such a picturesque suggestion that soclety leaders hastened to take it up. The headdress dinner is easily managed. One wears one’s dinner gowns and dresses one's head historically. The Wilhelmina peasant cap, all in white lace with two little ruffles around the lower edge, and with gold lace medallions at each side, is charming, but the wearer should be young and pretty. Small women have trouble with the headdresses unless they select their deco- rations with taste. The woman who is.a pocket edition of Venus has many points in her favor, but she will be topheavy unless she selects a small and rather dainty style of headdress. This kind of dinner will. be one of the features of the social life of the coronas tion and King Edward has graciously consented to honor not less than three of the scheduled dinners with his presence. For the origin of this fad one must also look to Washington, which has become suddenly the social as well as the judicial center of the country. Mrs. Grover Cleveland is wearing a very pretty dinner gown in black net, with white velvet coin spots. Between these coin spots there are tiny white dots. The yoke is a very transparent net sprinkled with French knots in pale blue. Mrs. Cleveland maintains her reputation for £00d dressing and clings to blus and black as of yore with always a fondness for white. The repugnance of her hus- band, the honorable ex-President, to soci- ety, keeps her at home a great deal. ‘White broadcloth, very light, consider- ing the fact that it is broadcloth, is worn for 'evening. A favorite model for this material is the Princess and the favorite trimming is lace. Lace applications, a lace vest, lace garnitures around the neck and sleeves, and lace in incrustations upon the skirt greatly lighten the effect of the cloth without adding to its weight or its warmth. A very lovely dress skirt was In cameo pink veiling, made with pin tucks run- ning from the belt down to the flounce. They were very tiny and close together. Cne involuntarily thought of cording when one looked at it, yet it was really softer than the cords would have been. A hip yoke trimmed this skirt and was in the'form of lace points set in at the belt line and extending dcwnward at each side, while in the front and in the back the lace yoke became very narrow in- deed. The flounce was a deep thing in the pink veiling, with an edge of lace trim- ROSES mom THE oI URE ming it. The lace was s pointed pate tern, with the points running upward. Such vagaries as thers are in little coats and such latitudes as are taken with the different styles! There are almost as many varietles as there are women to wear them and each seems so different from the last, A dressy little coat that might be worn as a dinner coat or which would grace a wedding guest, but which was really intended. to wear with a calling gown, was in white cashmere, lined with white affeta. It was buttoned down the back and was cut off right under the arms. It was finished with large dlamonds of lace, three in front and three in the beck. The front has a jabot of lace at the throat and there are lace dlamonds set one at the front of the neck and one 2t the back. The sleeves are elbow sleeves of the flowing variety, finished with a deep flounce of lace. Small whits coats of faneiful description are to be worn for dinner parties, garden parties, ping-pong parties and parties of every description, including the plazza functions, when one puts on one’s best and sits under the shade of the awnings. The Belt as a Feature. The belt has come Into prominence as a feature of the dress-up grown. It is worn with the handsomest dresses and partakes of their elegance. The feature of the belt, now and for all time, is and/has been the buckle. Cleopa- tra unquestionably wore exquisite beit buckles, and perhaps the Queen of Sheba did the same. At all events, pictures too old to show tra in one form or another, be it chaln or cor or the anclent band of stuff resembling ribbon. Upon the Princess the belt is worn rather high, in Josephine fashion, and it is finished with loops of ribbon and le ends. There is. an Empire belt, which 1s worn with the Princess; a very wide belt, which comes up well under the arms. An exceedingly pretty little belt is one seen with the dress costume. It is worn with any bodice, and is pulled low, but i3 quite independent -of walst and sk which are joined stogether in thetr - fashion and perhaps finished with their own method of joining. Then comes the little inde which IS narrow and of exq One of these beits was in gra ng over an inch wide. It was pulled v in 1! and the ends crossed unde handsome little buckl, vhi real gems. Such belts as this very costly and are articles of jew very cos well as of temporary beauty. It would he idle to try to ment many forms which the belt of these is a series of cameos tiny chains, the whole to be 100p ribbon, which is fastened around the and clasped in front. Here little wome: t their best, they can wear these s. It is the wo- man with the barrel-like waist who is at a disadvantage in them. For the fat woman, the narrower ths belt the better, and the blacker it is tha more becoming it will be, are bel