The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 25, 1902, Page 2

2 te of the fact that cold winds blowing the ambitious and loving woman insists on tell- ing us that summer is here. She rushes the season, t e forces July and Aug thing for a change i h hd no matter how much may cost her, in time, sonal wear and te legend that no woman til she has worn a white whole of the gentle e day when she can t it on; and, when, in the first blush of flowering summer, she actually does den it and sally forth, her joy is com- plete. A white dress, the perfectly smart consists of a skirt of arill, and a white shirt ell to wear a hat colored flowers with this, dress pedestrian or white duck waist. It is crowned w and tan gloves The White Outing Girl. is the white outing girl; and if fers a pale pink waist, or a light blue one of cheviot, cotton, or heavy lawn, it takes nothing away from her smartness. The white skirt with the colored shirt will be worn not a little ris summer; and it is pleasant to learn pretty and always much Peauline Astor wears such colored walst. This is rnoons at Cliveden, that ipon the Thames, where given to the royal smart gowns are Th And, by the way, how stupid it is for London now. What with g out against “the young what with the daughters grown up and married ropeless state of unmarriedness h the little ones of the Wal too smail to be out of the nur- nd no young princesses anywhere it is indeed & season when the n London can pity herself manages to have a good time. Astor wears a white suit, when in in etamine. Etamine h a ble goods this year, and is ble of such a varlety of treatment. ou want it made up with ruffies and as a summer dress, then all ri . of models. But it is lor it was made upon the ere were panels of stitghed etamine down each side of the skirt. Each each stitched along the as a wide strapping. The ibled so that it appeared el of cloth, solid, than one You Wear White? white zibiline, very light in not invest i gowns. Those white apt to prove a snare for st be economical. The; when soiled they are etely. two. classes of women who very well i One is the big woman, with plenty of figure. This finds in white a merciful friend, lines and making her ear gracefu her woman is the very small he whom one calls petite. White es her height and dignity ar ts fa “pr 1t also + like look wh ass| esence.” is the wou ¢ bout it w te and one men, like % of 3 ference to arquoise blue mical dresser n favor of 1 an inter- 00ses the and be- e wife aire neglect matters of economy if she have small pairs of shoes to buy and as many complete summer outfits, To the economical woman, there- fore, a word—wear white! In selecting there are many pretty and new fabrics from which to choose. The white cotton goods open up a great fleld and the lace stripes, the linen stripes, the in stripes and the beautiful little stamped white figures, all make variety. Self-Trimmed Goods. The white crepe goods will always be liked because they make up so dressily. THE Urr1ER Graee. May THREE DIf TINGUISHING CHARMCTERTICS, SHE CRICRIEf A *LOWER GCaRDEN, MER wayT ENCIRECLED Dy A Zone oFLach ANO HER HaT 1y TILTED ) irim them there are very neat hem i5s that can be bought by the yard; and there are goods that come with a little cording running through them. Tt looked at the first of season as though none but the martyrs and the mil- ild enter into the hionable world. All g e so elaborately em- brofdered, so y appliqued with lace, =0 profus. ed and so wonder- squared off, with the insets made out of the daintiest linen bits, that it seemed as though a woman’s whole time would be spent upon the making of one gown. To achieve even one creation it THE SUNDAY CALL. ked as 1 he would have to work inter- minably week in and week out. But perplexities disappear before the soften of Time, and so with th As scon as the.ac- t nmer goods came in and were out upon the counters, one began the abundance and beauty of the machine-made fabrics One lovely bit of goods, just a plain white cotton. .costing not much, shows tiny rows of pin tucking with machine hemstitching set In between the group of tucks. Such a material is already trimmed and is all ready to be made up into a w. The dzintiest of summer gowns is made from a2 material that is a pale yellow, the color of old lace. It has a cording running through it and is soft and crepey. At wide intervais there is a little puff of the good: All th in the material it- self. Tt quires no other (rimming ex- cept the little bit of lace, which goes on all things. Lace Trimmings. Lace is used moré elaborately in some cases than it need be. There is a wide girdle of it, pointéd top and bottom, front and back. The neck shows a band of lace and a lace point comes down to the bust. The sleeves are finished with an elbow puff with a band of lace at each side of the puff, The deen flounce around the foot is in plain goods tucked at the top and released at the botom to make the nec ry flare and there are little bands of goods at the head of the flounce with hemstitching along each hand. While white is made up with all sim- plicity, it is a sort of studied simplicity, by no means plainne he question of a lining is a perplexing one to the woman who dresses in white, for the lining costs more than the gown and to line a 15-cent cotton means some- thing when viewed from the standpoint of the pocketboo! As for the lining, it is a matter that cannot be ignored. All or very nearly all of the summer goods are trans the lining is distinetly visible, S0 sometimes. painfully Of course it is possible to use the plain beauty of the dress. parent and cotton lining cup well and gs, just as one would with a., other gown; but these linings do not show not get a trar they d to line well, then do arent dress, so the it you cannot aftc add nothing to the modistes advise; and they send their cus- temers back to exchange dress patterus that show the lining too plainly. But the prettiest gowns for the house and many of the best gowns for the street do “show through,” and the lining ques- tlon must be tackled boldly. The Lining Question. Here is the advice of a very fashionable dressmaker, who designs and executes for the wives of millionaires: “I begin at the very beginning, she, “and make my linings first.” “Mrs. A,” mentioning the wife of a fa- mous multi-millionaire, “will not buy silk linings, and one doés not blame her, for ir the summer they are not durable, and a substitute that looks just as well must be provided. “For this woman and for many others among my patrons 1 make very stylish and wholly beautiful linings of the finest of lawn. The waist is low in the neck and is made like a corset cover, sleeve- less. It is elaborately trimmed with lace and would do for an evening waist. It washes nicely and is made separate from the gow “For the skirt T make not a petticoat, but a perfect fitting, perfect hanging d skirt. It has its flounce, which is very full, and it has its sweep length. It would do very well indeed for a gown. “When a iIs to be put on the lining is first donned and hooked up, the ekirt is now put on and hooked. Then the ar is put on, bodice and skirt. ‘A per- fect fit is secured and the effect is lovely. “I make up linings in all colors of the finest of lawn and in wash mull, and in the thin goods, following always one medel, and my patrons have four and six of them and often more, according to the size of the wardrobe. 5 e secret is in making both waist and skirt so that they look like gowns, not like corset cover and petticoat. My patrons could attend a dinner in a lining. Of that I am positive.” The Ethereal Gown. The ethereal girl is the one who dresses in the fairy goods. These come delicately soft and thin, yet crisp, and they are de- signed for the making of afternoon and piazza gowns. There is quite a fad now for the gown that is stiff and starchy, not soft and clinging, and the mulls and linens seem designed for this sort of treatment. ‘While the esthetic and artistic gown— the “slinky” one, that twists around one’s feet and gives one height—is in fashion, it is undoubtedly true that the crisp, sheer one Is also in style, and the after- noon maiden can see them both and take her choice. 1t is generally agreed among those who make dress and its designing a life study that the stiff, crisp linen and the delight- fully perky lawn, with its starched effect, are both meant more for country wear, for hotel piazzas, when one can keep one’s self in picture attitudes, than for the street. These little dresses are trimmed with Valenciennes usually, or with the softest and finest of summer laces, and are made with the lace set in the skirt and with lace set in the walst. There is usuaily a baby-like yoke upca such a waist, and this is completed with a juvenile ruffie ot lace. Around the foot is a dear, crisp lit- tle flounce. The elbow eeves are fin- ished with a_little lace ruffle. Miss Simplicity will dress in white this summer, with the white waist buttoning down the back; she will have a yoke, bor. dered with a lace ruffie, and her stock will be little more than a lawn band with lace along each edge. Her skirt will be very simple and rather full. It will be finished with a very fluffy little lace flounce. And she will wear a sash. The Home Dressmaker, It is a fine summer for the woman who wants to do her own dressmaking, for in the newest of dress fabrics are seen those that have lace set in, after the most deli. cate ways. There are the mulls—though they are a little bit expensive—that have really e set in to form a sort of design, large irregular diamonds and little swirls of lace. You have to pay the price, but think of doing the work yourself! The foulard asserts itself summer after summer, and you fall a victim, though you don’t know why. Foulard is never a g00ds. and it is never very is, oh! so very ladylike. In a summer foulard one can face the world, f it i= made up prettil There are foulards and foulards, and many ways of making them. A certain elegant importing establish- ment of Gotham makes a specialty of them. They are in Chinese blue, old rold, tobacco brown, navy blue, black, and in many shades of green, making a gréat variety. All show the figure upon a white ground, or the white figure upon a col- ored ground—th: unmjstakable foulard sign. says nice A Hundred Dollar Foulard. These gowns are beautitully made, ana none costs less than $100. It is ahmost a commentary upon the beauty of the gowr »u know that the firm has ing its orders at 3180 each. is a §100 foulard, just such a as purchased by Mrs. -Clarence nd perhaps the very same one: The foundation was In two shades of tan, light tan pebbled on a deeper tan sround. Green clover leaves connected by —_ - - In spite of occasional blasts the smart white duck, the gauzy afternoon gown and the handy and ever-ready foulard are in our midst—Why Mrs. |y Roosevelt dresses in white. ‘What Pauline Astor and other Anglo-American beauties ars I wearing_How to get up your 80wn to look as though it cost | one hundred dnllnrs—Cheatmg the public in matters of lace and summer silk. Es Tt stems were scattered all rial. There was a foot flour very wide in the middle of heading this foot fl application of beautiful ¢ the foulard cut out und the lace were lined with bl The hips have applicati a 8, ‘with the foulard cut out in e same man- ner, and black velvet was set un and there, in little stray patches. The waist had a yoke and stock of chit- fon, with black velvet running through the stock, and there were applications of duchess upon the vest and at the top of the sleeves. Beautiful undersleeves, trimmed with lace, completed the gew.:t over the mate- There was a black velvet sash. Such a dress as this, counting the 8o of the goods, of the lace, of the velvet and of the time to make it, was worth the money. It you do not care to go quite so high— and there are those who would look at $100 a long time before spending it on one foulard—there are just as pretty things with lace and velvet, all done along fash- ionable lines, but involving not much labor mnor mtch fine lace. Foulard has been called the ochurch gown. So it is, and the summer calling dress, and certainly the one for coolness and comfort. It wears well, does not muss, and is not apt to look rundown until it is all worn to rags. Those who keep up the pretty practice of paying calls each summer before going into the country can invest in one of the summer silks and make it up convention- ally. Dame Fashion Faithful. There is one model to which Dams Fashion is faithful. The plain, close-fit- ting skirt with the foot flounce. True, she varies the flounce and makes it a Spanish ruffle, deeper in the back, or she points it along the top, or she side plaits it, or she takes it and sets a fluffy rut- fle under it. But on all the new gowns you will see t volante, or en so many of them. There are Eugene skirts creeping into the fashionable shops, and little glimpses of the Eugenie modes are given now and then. But the woman who wants te on the e will not, just yet, ru b} ¥ her skirt p, nor will she make may be here It was omce fashionable ie ballroom and may be again; but for one’s summer silk it is not well to be 0 progre: ve unless one I C wo to spa stud W stead of ¢ Many ot lices n the pestiliion back. But for t al- most_as weil to make ails of silk to match the gown, and attach them to a belt to form a postillion belt.. Then one need not always wear the little rear tabs. That they are becoming there is no doubt, and that they give height and slen- derness is undisputed. Yet it is pleasant to_be able to do without them. Many of the somest new gowns are closed ick and this style is becomin It is youthful and graceful, that it is a nuis- ance is the ¢ gainst it. The Closed Front. Stout women this smooth front a positive godse: woman suit trimmed f for, with the plain, softly ess of button or positively babyish. in her petite pretti takes at e waist down So it is friends ke arrange- ments to be buitoned up with regularity and care. The front forms a fine field for the 4 play of jewelry, and at a luncheon very dressy ome, to introduce a mus relative of Somebody-or-Other to soci the ladies looked as though decorated with all the orders of the United King- dom. There is always the locket which hangs from a slender invisible chain, and there is the dangle which hangs from its long chain. Lovely sets of pins come now, four beautiful, clear pearl ones, looking like mother-of-pearl and a large oval pin to match. All these are for the front of th seamless waist and are to outline the ke and trim it. They are set along at 3 with the big one in the middle. The big hat grows bigger and the little hat grows smaller as the season warms. The latter is for matinee and for very nice reception occasions and for special events. But it can hardly be called a street hat. Indeed, many do not own the tiny little hat; and really draw no medi- um between the big hat and none-at all. For a tiny hat, if wear one they mus women cor a coiffure o nament wi ts of a feather, an aigrette, a s and a bow of vel- vet ribbor whole bearing a wavy t were a thing of afr. veryth e to add to the light- ness of the amented, to its fly- ng qualities, so to speak. The orna- ments are on spirals that they may d > are attached 3 X sway; the very lightness,” and red in very perky lit- the ribbo tle wa The Very Large Hat. The large hat, meanwhile, is enjoying popularity. It is big and it hair in certain approved It must tilt a little, a bow at the bac way there i be necessary The Lord has its boa. It is in w the top is startling red flowe red, its leaves It used to be a brilliant of the with hine But of glarin them built sought the black h plumes and i we orna s season of T but the If a ail meanz wea taste, sanctios the world dens and sally Tt thi muslin runn dotted with ished alor One can : some well repaid i length just dow i must su . it should be in w muslin and little s love: grace 1t is winding up summer. One sees many been left unbought the temptation to p It is a great com wares that America & their goods in this country, and even ?! the vast numbers that have gome ove vear for the coronation very few haye made any plans for bringing home a wardrobe. Uncle Sam’s clothes are good engugh for them. rings that b are down and s t to our native women are buy