The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 25, 1902, Page 11

Different Fabrics and Styles Rppropriate FOF Fair kittle « fancies Xt ques- grown up itself. ting girl and g , withal. Something or the occasion be fresh of the nicest t ggested, but that m finest of trimmings a e very softness makes 1t clinging but in some in- stances r too expensive, as all the find be of the best buyable of the gown is not forthcom- spoiled if the The mull is is not nearly More frequently it or has the faintest is the case carry ur smartest she will make a bobble that will be left . 5 a de such cream to very ike others, white ba- tunning frock just enough un- stepped over the the ridiculous side thing possible. it comes in it looks like a loye This exqui- certain high- ies of ex- so terribly it is double ded is conse- is ne rul fashions of the pret- the picture. bias and there lown the front of it. ps a band of zig- r inches wide en- s fastened to the ways t like however. perfectly ight and the fuliness is soft and fluf- tucks run almost to the While the skirt In fact, nning. An- ertion makes lawn comes just to keep gradually die away y fancy ns cr piece it wer skirt is while ago every- SUNDAY CALL. GOy FF 2T Its only recommenda- t was truly comfortable. But e the French failed to see anything artistic in it and it continued to trail a foot or more behind them the craze lost its sudden popularity. And let me whisper something into your ear right here. Look at a French woman, or, for that matter, a woman who is ab- solutely chic. Look at her hard and see wherein she differs from yourself. She does, and If you are clever enough to dis- cover exactly what makes the change, you may copy after her in the twinkling of an eye and with practically no ex- pense. Notice that her skirt fits tightly about the hips. It does not bag about the knees and it does not flare much about the feet, And it is not all in the cut by any means. The secret is this—she_ does not wear starched petticoats nor silk ones for that matter. If she is compelled to wear one at all the softest silk that she can pos- sibly find will be her selection. A surah or a Ch anything that one can hold in the palm of the hand and still have room to spare. When she turns about her gown wiil cling and the lines of her figure will show to the best advantage. Her skirt is long enough to cover her feet complete- ly, but when she raises it at a crossi no color is visible. Such dressing is an art and it requires study. But how does she do this? you ask. It simple enough. You have seen woolen tights, but probably thought they were meant only for an actress—that is, if you thought at all. But such is not the case. They are clinging and delightfully and answer to all intents and purposes. If the skirt is lined with silk, or better still, is made with a drop skirt, what is the earthly use of carrying about any more clothing, especially when one looks a hundred per cent better for it? And that reasoning comes in to good advantage with such a frock as a gradu- ation one would necessarily be. Let there be ample fullness about the feet—the more the better, but that can easily be supplied froin the knees down and still give that clinging appearance that is absolutely all the rage. And the waist. Almost always they are made,with a yoke, but some wise people have two of them made for the one skirt and then their ingenuity must work to the very best advantage. A smart one, however, is made with a very low yoke effect. There are clusters of tucks in the lawn and then a row of the insertion and that way all about the wa: front and back. Instead of ruffies to take the bare- ness away, 4 piece of the insertion is laid on, but not put on in a full fashion in the slightest. The zigzags fit in pret- tily and, besides, there is not that com- tion w is LTty g warm - mon look about it. While ruffies are all the rage and while they are just as dainty as they ever were—still there Is no denying it that they have been used almost since the time of Eve. The sleeves are long and tight fitting, and are, of course, made of the all-over Jace that forms the yoke. In place of a fancy collar or a piece of ribbon the lace itself has veen boned and pressea into duty. Then only one thing remains to be fin- ished—the waist line. Just at present ribbon and sashes are quite the proper caper and really what could be prettier or.more girlish? Do not bone the ribbon in front. Just take about five --ards of soft taffeta or a double-faced satin and draw it about the waist. Draw it tight, just as snug as you can comfortably stand it, for that will make you look trim and neat. Incidentally, if you have held the ‘ribbon in front in a V-shape it will stay there with little or no persuasion. Draw it up on the hips and up in back as high as possible: That gives the dip that everybody 1is trying to get these days. Then tie the ribbon and do not make long bows. Just as sure as you do the entire effect of the frock will be ruined. Tiny stiff ends are what is wanted. Naturally the remainder of the ribbon falls here and there just as it feels inclined and it is never stiff, you may rest assured. What if it does fall longer than the skirt is on the sides? That does not make any difference to you and it does make a vast one to the person behind you. For you and your gown ought to look just about as swagger as they make them. It is strange how some slight thing will alter a frock for the better or the worse. A clever notion has been adopted lately with sheer fro and it serves admir- at Corset covers are out of the ques- tion, when the yoke is cut very low and when the sleeves are transparent as well. The strap across the shoulders looms up most decidedly. Naturally the waist lined, and that lining is perfectly pla But it need not be that way. Madame Modish thinks that SR> Ok = kles, /! A1 JE Ty gdg/msfl//r ) THRIRE taffeta, or something that is rather stiff, something that is white, and at the same time that will not look coarse, is dainty when edged with Valenciennes lace. Ruf- fle after ruffle is put on, and just as closely together as possible in order to The true appreciate what a difference it is to try one waist with and one out the ruffles and see which you really like the better. The great conso- lation Is that it takes only about half an hout’to put them in and your waist lines will be just alike when it comes to fluff. make them stand out prettily. way to People generally think that all white is necessary for such an occasion. But that idea is fast being relegated to the past. Black ribbon in the hair i{s much prettier than white. For instance, these days two bows are considered quite necessary, one at the top of the cofl and cne at the nape of the neck. Now a white bow looks awkward and a black velvet one chic.” If you are going to wear one at all why not select the one that is the prettiest? And it is exactly the same with slippers and hosiery. White is bound to make the feet look larger, not to mention the an- Black has just the opposite effect, making them look very small and dain- ty. If the frock is long enough the feet show very little; in fact every step pushes the skirt just a wee bit in advance of the foot, and the boot Is of little or no consequence, so far as color is concerned. However, if you really want to stick to the good old rule, seiect what is known as the colonial tle and get it of undressed kid. Those come with a very high heel— such a heel as is gensrally used on the stage and that gives a swell arch to the instep. The buckle, either of gold or of silver, is a pretty additiun, and a new cne that is very popular, so you will make no mistake in wearing them. Once in a while you will see the white slippers with a biack buckle, or an oxidized one, but while tney are s not an- swer the purpose than the darker ones, as the s to keep to all white. e stockings. by the are com- at forms than the: in more used to. T the drop vable, but or stitch were on s bu to-day you may choc m any number of bexes, and fina 0 home with as elaborate a pair as you may like or your pocketbook will allow. On account of the ng it into her the price has gone way u b t may price for | 't to pay a something at will not u think; but h you on your vaca- udge the money worn take them aw tion, and you will not put into them. And anothe the present p: has probably told through this term” h nice for you dirner is for u that if you “get do something y knows that a do not bother veur head about that part of 1t, but quiet- ly make out your list and hand it to your mother. She will understand—ten to one has been wondering e could find out whom you r 1d like to have, Books ings for girls or chaps to give nds. They are not ex are always Now every how re awf but acceptable and well liked, as they will last ensive, they for years and be all lasting generally. But jewelry is what pleases the heart of the girl. Anything that sparkles or glistens will win her over quicker than a complete library. Frequently the family decides upon a diamond ring as a reward for years of honest toil and sometimes a trip to Homolulu or perhaps to Japan 1s offered in lieu of the jewel, but at any rate graduating is well worth the time and work expended, so, girls, make the most of your opportunity, for another one will not come until you are married, and such thoughts should be far. from your mind. Whether they are ot not is the better for the another question. that are at varlance with our The primary purpose in a Japanese girl's 4 A J2p2nese Marriage Western ideas on the question. In marriage is to get her placed where she Qustcms. the first place, love doesn't enter will be well connected and well cared APAN has some marriage customs into the contract at all. for. No mother in all Japan would for a - moment be so foolish as to think of giv- ing her daughter in marriage to’a young man who had no home ready for her re- ception. He must have the necessary means to care for his wife and he must be able to show a creditable family tree. ‘Without these essentials he might love the girl to desperation and she might re- gard him with equal ardor, but he would never get her. The Japanese maiden in any event does not choose her own husband. It would no more occur to her to do such an auda~ cious thing than to have chosen the name given her at birth. An interested friend of the family, known as a “go-between,” attends to this matter. ‘When a girl reaches a marriageabls age this “go-between™ casts about for a hus- band for her. When he filuds a young man who meets all of the requirements of the family and fortune he arranges for a meeting with the girl and her mother. Another way is to arrange for a meet- ing at the house of a friend. Of course, the matchmaker will pretend that it is quite By accident, although all of the party understand perfectly that it is by design. The girl is very shy and hides, her face behind her fan as she bows low many times. Then she retires, blushing and nervous, behind her mother. The young man at this meeting locks her over and decides whether he will wed her. If he agrees, the negotiations are carried to a finish. He pays for the trousseau and the bride’s father provides the entire fur- nishings for the house which the newly married pair will occupy.