The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 18, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY OALL. Summer Fogs and Breeszes Defied by the Maiden Who Has Solved the Vexatious Problem of Preserving Her Hyperion Waves and Gains- borough Ringlets — Frequent Brushing Necessary to Make the Hair Pliable, and One Secret Is Not to Brush Against the Grain—Some Recipes for Hair Curling Fluids Which May Be of Value. e — Copyright, 1802, by 8. 8. McClure Co.) i OR the first time in my life, I can face summer at peace with all mankind,” exclaimed Ara- bella Knickerbocker, slipping into her kimone. With a disposition like a bowl of ead and milk, I fancied you were al- iys at peace—what has happened now?” asked ber companion. “The thing that has happened is this; 1 am going to spend lots of time yachting this summer—Jack has a new yacht, and now this is the point, I have learned how to keep my hair in curl” “How perfectly lovely!” “Yes, isn't it! Fancy starting off with & lot of gay pecple, for a day’'s pleasure on & yacht smartly dressed and with your bair in ripples and hyperion waves; naturally you have provided yourself with three or four vells.” But what are they to the fog and stiff Get rid of your yellow tinge | and come out with a com- plexion like the roses of June. CERTAIN beauty seeker once to her physician: e me a prescription for my she sald. n a slip of paper the wise man wrote: Get into a perspiration ev- ery day. Exercise! Exercise! Exercise!” No better complexion rem: than is embodied in s the beginning of beauty. Out- door workers, however careless, are usu- ally blessed with a good complexion. exercise. Get into a glow. 8o snall you walk forth into the paths of beauty and have a s ear and admir- abie. Incidentally you gather health, for bealth and auty are handmaidens And wh gives 2 woman, in the first 2 a bad complexion? ¥ Cold feet, and some women have them all the year around, will do it. Chilly knees, and you would be surprised to know how many suffer from this simple may be responsible. Tight lacing, done unconsciously, will induce a face and a tight coliar will bring tied look to the surface in a short It is a great deal easier to get a poor skin than it is to get rid of one. You can Hi te a greenish, bililous hue in a eek's time, but it will take you two weeks to get that color away. The face lined to be purple from too s bad as the one that is se from the very lack of there is the freckied skin me, always chapped. # one does not often find d the bofl upon your face is wtil 88 frequently seen. Except where there is a skin trouble, in which case the victim stays in the house, or among very unfortunate folks who do not know how 10 treat the skin, there is no such thing as the face that is a mass of pimples. And for this one can be thank- ful, for the sight was never a pleasant »ne. The Peachblow Skin. But the peachblow skin is by no means the commonest thing in the world am those who have perfect complexions a rare. Though it can be claimed that this blessing and great beauty is within the reach of all A beauty doctor once received a call from a wealthy patroness: “Doctor,” sald she, “I will pension you if you will stop practicing.” “Madame!” exclaimed he. “I mean what 1 say,” replied the pa- tient. *You are healing up all the poor complexions and very soon I shall have nothing to boast of. I shall no longer be queen, for there will be thousands of others as good looking as L” Then there is the blackhead and on this point there are many queries. A reader writes about her skin and asks specially about blackheads. How shall she get rid of them. In all complexion ills there is nothing quite as easily cured as the blackhead. There is really no need for having even one on the face and the remedies are simple and within the reach of every one. For the blackhead the treatment is cleaniiness. The black spot 18 caused by a settling of dust in the open pores of the skin. Take away the dirt and keep it away and the speck is gone. To go back to the beauty prescription, begin your treatment for blackheads by getting into a glow. Exercise. Get that simplest of all gymnasium implements, a wand, and go to work with it. Try lift- ing it very high with the arms spread apart. Then lower it, and, putting it over your head, see how far you can spread out your arms upon it and how beautiful- Iy ‘t exercises your lungs and chest. When you have brought yourself into a full glow, then begin the biackhead treat- ment. Wash the face with hot water, holding on the cloth until the face feels warm Now spread the afflicted places well with a good cold cream, various recipes for which have been given from time to time. Those Little Black Spots. With a soft cloth take off the cream and wash the face again with hot water, this time putting a little powdered borax In the water to soften it. Let the washing operation take an hour, for the cold cream should be left on al least half that time. Be sure to remain indoors after the treatment and do not go near an open window, for the skin of the face is pre-, cisely like the skin of the hands and will chap just as easily. You are not in the habit of exposing the hands to the air directly after wash- ing them. Nor must you expose the face. Last of all, if you have been vigorous with the towel you may anoint the face ever so slightly with cold cream and let it remain on. Cucumber cream is best for this, as it does not leave a shine. There are many brands of it and every druggist handles a good one. Your blackheads will now be all gone uniess they were pronounced, in which case they will yleld at the next treatment. For the face that is inclined to break out there must be an entirely different set of remedies, for the course that is good for one will Injure another. The soft, delicate, rashy skin must not be scrubbed nor must it be irritated in any way. Its treatment must be all of a soothing na- ture. Begin, then, by anointing such a skin every night with a cream whose basis is the old-fashioned mutton tallow. Noth- ing has ever equaled this as a skin food. Let y¢ cream be soft and scented with rose lavender. Do not use camphor in it, for you do not want an irritant but & soother, Buch & skin should be perfectly cleas, MAR] ON MARTINE AU for ‘it is of the sort which will take on the “peachblow” hue in time. And. the reason why it is not like a peach now may lie internally. A Course of Diet. A course of dlet is necessary with ex- ercise. Let the woman with the rashy =kin practice vaulting with the wand; let her stand upon one foot and balance herself; let her attempt little feats of daring such as flying from an ottoman, wand in hand, and leaping into the air, and raising and lowering her body, with the wand always as a balance pole. With her skin in a glow she can take the hot bath, though without serubbinz STAND timEe THIS whILE Youv cournT = vE rRY s YOURSEL M Lreezes —ificerrupts her friend feelingly. “Yes, what are they? Soon your hair begins to fall in a doleful fringe from under your jaunty cap, and your spirits too, take an awful fall at the same time, and your fun for the day is over.” “Now, tell me all about it.”" The “all about it” went fully into the merits of the case, from the moment Ara bella seated herself before her dressing table until her shimmering tresses had been trained to ripple and wave and flow. Hyperion or Lady Teazle curls, Marcel waves or Gainsborough ringlets, it was all one to Arabella; she had made a study of curls and reduced the subject to an exact sclence, spending much thought and time over it, justifying her- self on the ground that even Venus oft with anxious care Adjusted twice a single hair. Of course, it is unnecessary to say that be a mald with twentieth century {deas, she had thrown away her alcohol lamp and the curling irons after it. 'No burned and ruined locks for her! The fl{l! step toward cultivating fluffy or curly hair Arabella has found {8 to brush it vigorously. in order to make it pliable, fine and shining, and not to brush or comb it “against the grain.” A criss-cross effect results from combing, brushing and arranging the hair contrary to the grain. - Each little hirsute filament has a rebellious tendency to go In the direction nature has Intended it should, and it is only by humoring this tendency that best re- sults are attained, especially if waving strands are desired. The brush must be Immaculately clean, the bristles moderately stiff and long enough and far enough apart to reach through the hair. The comb must be smoothly polished with even teeth, that will not i-ritate the scalp or break the halr. A pair of scissors lies on the toilet table, and two or three times a week, taking a strand of hair in one hand, and the scissors in the other, every hair with a split end Is cut, other- wise it will not grow. With a basin of water befors her, and a spotlessly clean nail brush in hand, my lady gives all her front locks and scalp a thorough shampoo. A shallow dish holds a curling fluld; this, too, is applied by means of a nail brush. The tips of the fingers can be used, but the nail brush is more convenient. Dividing the halr into two parts, for a third, add a bit of narrow ribbon. Plait the three together, taking care that a fair- ly long plece of ribbon is left project- ing at the top, so that it will not come out; when the end is reached take hold of the ribbon and push the halr up as close to the roots as possible—the same way jt would be done around a hairpin— securing it firmly at the bottom. After a little time—say half an hour—undo the plait, and behold waves and undulations galore, and they will be much softer than if the hair had been done on curl- ing irons. Instead of a curling fluid moisten the hair with alcohol; a&s alco- hol dries quickly, the hair can be curled in this way In a few moments. The hab- ftual use of alcohol is not advised; It makes the hair too dry. With clear water and fingers alone & fluft of waves may be coaxed, which, however, is rather transient than per- manent. After brushing . the hair—and always with the grain, memember—wet it with water, alcohol or curling fluid; a skillful use of the hand is required, and, while the hair is thoroughly damp, it 1s easy enough to pinch it up between the first and second fingers to simulate waves. Make the curves rather exag- gerated, extending in ripples as far back as possible, and if“at first the lines re- fuse to stay in place, use invisible hair- pins to hold them. Let the hair dry In this condition. At first very little fm- pression will be made on the straight, sleek locks. After a few mornings pa- tience will have its reward, and the carefully molded waves will not fall into wet otrings over one's ears, but begin to keep their shape. When all damp- ness has dried out, large, soft waves reward one’s labors, If it is more convenlent to use kids or RiCI OMF AL ANC 1Y G — the facé. And, as a bath accompani- ment she could use the flesh scrubbing brush, which {s so excellent a thing for opening the pores. K There are no special rules for using the flesh brush. Get into the tub, provide yourself with a good cake of soap, have plenty of hot water and scrub away—but if you have a delicate skin keep that bruah:off the face. Now for the Internal treatment.. Eat vegetables and forget meat for a while. Vegetarians have, universally, beautifu! complexions. At a vegetarfan banquet the' first thing that strikes you is the beauty of the women. ' Then you notlee that it is their clear skins that you ad- mire. There is something for the eating of. fruits and cereals, of vegetables and nuts, that seems to clear the skin and banish that dull and cloudy look from the face. The spring medicines -are good for the complexion taken any time of the year, and they will often rid you of blemishes. Soaking the feet. at night in hot water will often act upon an obstinate faclal P & £r THNE wANnD » &4/CHN AS YOUu CAN spot, and loose clothing and attention to the laws of hygiene will do wonders for you. That clear, beautiful English complex- fon, which is the admiration as well as the ‘despair of Americans, has its begin- ning in the clear air, the exercise and the bread and butter diet forced upon the English miss. True, she drinks tea, but she does not eat fat eats, hot with spices and rich with gravies, three times a day, nor does she have fried stuffs forced upon her. Those Delicate Skins. Hashes, patties, twice cooked meats, meat ples, simple and economical prep: rations of the day before meats are on her table and she thrives on them. The American girl who does not eat half a pound of meat at each meal thinks she is {ll; and the one who does not overeat hard to find. Going without your middle meal for & week 13 good for the complexion. You will not starve. And eating only three kinds of food at a meal is still better. There are women whose skins are so delicate that they act as recording agenta for the food that is taken in. A salad with a vinegar ‘dressing will war upon the other food taken. And, if creamed vege- tables, such as succotash, asparagus or the like, be eaten at the same meal with salads or sour foods the two will, wrangle internally and the result be a complexion spot. It is too bad that some should be treat- ed this way by mother nature and others be allowed to go scot free in the matter of the foods they may or not eat. But facts are facts add complexions are{com- plexions. Shell fish will bring out blatches upon one face that will not leave for two weeks. Study your own pecullarities, say little about them, but take care. SThe woman with a billous tings can rid herself of it by eating stewed fruit and taking plenty of exercise. She can prac- tice in her room with the window open or, better still, can join a gymnasium class, Perhaps she can organize one of her own and the members can watch each other grow clear-askinned and beautiful. Heat is the secret of good looks as it is of health and of"life, eep the extreml- ties warm; take plenty of hot baths; ex- ercise until you are in a glow; drink hot 0 re the stomac! and—above al ercise! pepiliotes, home-mades ones ars the best. Make a foundation of wire, cover it with cotton wool and over that draw = bit ef pale blue cheese cloth. Cotton wool may be made sufficiently firm by winding it closely, and a “curler” of this descrip- tion gives softer, more graceful waves than the kids. . “Why pale blue cheese cloth? perhaps asks one. “Oh, just for looks—pale blue is mors becoming than brown kids or white wool. One may even look pretty and coquettish in sky blue curlers.” For the same reason when using ribbons for curling the hair have blue ones. The virtue, of course, of & curling fluld is that the hair remains in curl for sev- eral days, and the operation of “doing™ up one’'s hair need not be repeated nightly. Another secret of preserving the wavi- ness of tresses is this: Each strand of hair must be as tightly twisted as a cord befors it is wrapped around the curless or papllottes. This gives the curls sta- bility and firmness enough to defy the densest sea fogs and the most humid summer air of the mountains, and makes them joys forever—that is, the curls, and yachting and sea bathing are robbed of thelr terrors. The woman who has been accustomed to curl her hair by moistening it with a lather of soap and water—a Very easy way of curling the hair, by the way— must be told that there is tradition that soap used in any quantity on the halr turns it gray. Used with alcohol soap is quite harmless. One of the numerous hair curling flutds calls for a quarter of & pound of castile soap, cut in small pieces; pour over this half a pint of alcohol; per- fume with a quarter of a dram each of essence of ambergris, citron and neroli. A decoction of quince seeds was ths hair curling device used by our grand- mothers to coax lovelocks. To make this pour a pint of hot water over three tea- spoons of quince seeds and let it stand for several hours. Strain and bottle, add- ing two drahms of cologne or a few drops of violet or rose perfume. It may need to be thinned a little with water bafore using. Other halr curling fuids are: Hair curling fluld No. 1—Powdered bor- ax, % ounce, spirits of camphor, 1 ounce, gum arabic, % dram, hot water 1 pint. Dissolve the borax and gum arablc in the hot water. When nearly cold add the camphor. Recipe No. 2—Rosewater 4 ounces, alco- hol 3 drams, glycerin 1 dram, carbopate of potash % dram. Mix all well together and shake before using. Recipe No. 3-Gum arablo 1 dram, gran- ulated sugar 1 dram, rosewater § ounces. Dissolve the gum arabic and sugar in the rosewater, then fllter. Lotions are usually filtered through white blotting pa~ per, but two or three folds of mualin an- swer equally well. A good curling fluid s made by pouring & pint of water over one ounce of gum tragacanth, let it stand until well dissolved, which may be & day or more, stir frequently. Fiiter and let it stand & few days, then filter again and add 8 drops of essence of rose. Beware of the process which perma- nently curls or waves the hair. A Parisian halrdresser will curl so you will never uncurl, and you will look like a Clrcassian lady let loose from the museum. The pro- cess Is much the same as that used by the pelt mongers to obtain and fix & curl in the halr of certain skins, and called a “secretage.” Quicksilver is one eof the In- gredients. To make the hair simply fuffy without curling it, molsten it with a preparation of alcohol or rectified spirits of wine, two ounces; cologne, one ounce; blcarbonate of soda, haif ounce, and rosewater, four ounces. Now and then the tune is changed and there goes up an unhappy wall from the maid whose hair will curi, and she don’t want It to, to whom hair as’ stralght and sleek as that of a Puritan elder is ex- tremely attractive. ’Tis ever thus, what we have we prize not. There is & rem- edy, fortunately, for this undesirable state of affairs. It calls for two ounces of bay rum, half ounce of sweet oil and a few drops of essence of violet. Put this on the hair and brush thoroughly. Details, More or Less Interesting. Paris now possesses a fashionable hair- dresser, who is called an “ond: o the old word friseur being altogether in- adequate to describe his marvelous art in giving a lovely, undulating wave to ladies’ locks. Most of the smart set of Paris have passed through his hands, and his shop is daily thronged. He imparts the secret of his ‘“‘undulation” to no as- sistant, for he might be tempted to set up an opposition hairdessing saloon on the boulevards. The charges are high, and some falr customers offer as much as $40 in order to be the first in the chalr: Once a year Paristan halrdressers curl and comb and brush for prizes, the prizes going to the three who produce the most pleasing effect. Fifty-five minutes are al- lowed for the work, and one condition this year was ‘that two pink feathers and & plece of green ribbon should be worked into each coiffure to the best advantage. The one who secured the prize of homor was remarkably active and seemed to be halrdressing against time. His work was finished long before the others and was indeed donme over twice, for he had intro- duced Into the colffure a row of pearls, which the rules of the contest did not al- low, and he was obliged to remove. them. Persons with naturally curly halr are sald to be possessed of more lovable and sweet natures than those with wiry or straight capillary adornment. On most occasions the fact that we are looking our best is a wonderful ingentive to good be- havior, and the wWoman with natural curls can discount her straight-haired sister many a time and oft. She knows it; why should she not be amiable? Straight hair was considered by tHe an- clents & mark of the gods’ Aaispleasure. Halr, which was straight before sickness will sometimes grow curly afterward. —_—————— Before the Siberian rallway was avall- able a trip from London to Shanghal cost from $325 to $475. Now it can be made from. $65, third class, to §1607 first class. An automobile truck Is now employed for moving Iron safes. It has two pro- pelling motors and a third elevates the safe to its place In the building: It re- quires three meh and six and a hal? min- utes to place a safe on a seventh floor. Formerly it required eight men two and a half nours. ;