The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 18, 1902, Page 2

THE SUNDAY CALL.' e | | HINTS IN REST-AWHILE GOWNS—UP-TO-DATE NIGHTIES FOR SUMMER RESORTS AND FIRES, WHERE THE PRO- FANING EYE OF MAN MAY PENETRATE, ARE IN BLACK, TRIMMED WITH PINK LACE — RECENT SKIRTS, AND LACE OOLLARS AS DEEP AS LACE CAPES COATS, WHOLE TROUSSEAUX OF LINGERIE ARE MADE UP IN THESE COLORS AND WHITE UNDERWEAR HAS BE- \ COME OBSOLETE WITH CERTAIN SMART ONES—DAINTY | | Pt MARCONIGRAM from Paris tells us that all negligees and under- wear of every permissible sort will be finished with little ribbons, so placed around the edges and s that they act as shirr strnng i trimmings, too. the same invisible but wholly reli uble source gne learns that there are new things under the gown in the matter of garters. The 1 est garters are of elastic in the -leg style. They are embroider- ink silk rose: e of chiffon along each edge. ho do not wear this persuasion of n work the long .side elastics nd border them with chiffon elastics are hitched to the rset and are Wworn very down the abdemen. here is e need of studying he fashions in underwear uniess one can arn somethin hing to one's Acation. 1t is therefore with pieasure t one peruses an account of the lin- e of & Parisian bride, a young woman well known in the American col- ad, and who was one of the p the wedding of the Coun , formerly Miss Morton. Colored Underwear. voman has built her trous- those heavenly twins, One can get mulls and and linens, and the most colors, and - this them exclusively. In nothing white. pink and blue iin- this is darned, Petticoat Ideas. W x claims to have in- und de a panic in er purse from bilis. But now rom across the re es the laim t aght of was the special k me_pettic and carries k of them, cven on a Bat- y visit. scems a lttle odd, almost indelicato eak so openly of the petticoat as a part of one’s wardrobe, for al- = been a sub rosa adjunet, or But the long skirt has ban- ealment from the petticoat and always r) irday 10 Mon: It the fact that it is to trail, while the dress skirt i= held up, brings it prominently be- fore the public eye. And here are some of the petticoat novelties: it i made of moire to match the moire shirt waist, for which there is fuch a vogue It is made of taffeta to match the fad for the silk dress skirt. It is made of mull and lawn to go with the h dresses. It i# in white, or pink, or blus, or yel- low, according to the tone of the light wash dress. Or it is in brown, or black, or navy blue, or decp green or scarlet, to go with the dark silk or cloth gown. The fancy for matching the petticoat to the dress skirt is on the increase. In spite of the fact that all the better dress l[dr!b have their silk drop skirts, there must be a petticoat underneath of pre- cisely the same color. Not only must the tone correspond, but the material must match. With a silk dress there must be & petti- — —g—— N T e e coat of silk; but Dame Fashion whispers loudly that with®the cloth, the pongee, the poplin, the linen. and the molire there should be a petticoat of the same stuff. The entire cloth petticoat is a little too warm, but to it there can be added a deep flounce of silk, so that while the under part is cashmere or veiling, or whatever it may be, the outside is of silk. This adds only a little to the weight, but much to_the wearing qualities. There are petticoat notes besides these. The Trimmed Skirt. Just why. or with what utllitarian pur- pose in view it {8 not known, but the latest French skirts show a trimming to imitate the outer skirt. The Spanish flounce, widening in the back; the little chiffon plaiting shirred down the middle; the bands of stitched silk and the applica- tion of flowers are all noted in the petti- coat as in the outer skirt. It is a charming summer trousseau which has a petticoat for every dress, trimmed to imitate the outer skirt and either exactly matching It in material or harmonizing with it. The princess petticoat, while the most desirable thing 1o be found in underwear, has its objection from the standpoint of economy. Being all of a plece, a .com- bination garment, it must be laundered all at’once, and the corset cover and petti- coat are treated to the tubbing, all of & plece. “This is very destructive and the princess comes ‘apart at the walst line, Just where the strain and stress of the tub and the flatiron are felt most. For the ironing of delicate laces there is & board which can be made at home, It differs from the ordinary board in that it is very heavily padded and the lace, while it is ironed, is not flattened. 2o i So with the piques and Ilinens. They are ironed upon this padded board. The fron must be a very h one, not too hot. 'This presses the pique smoothly, but does not flatten it. After It.is ironed the ribbing is stll visible. Little Alfonso’s Sister. Alfonso’'s unmarried sister, a little older than himself, has a perfect penchant for handsome lingerie and negligees. She draws upon ail the citles of Europe for her supply and if she marries the young Crown Prince of Germany, as it I8 said she is ambitious to do, her negligees will cause the court of Berlia to stare. Omne of the lovellest negligees, a verit- able dream for a senorita to wear, Is In the palest gray, embroidéred with pink dots. Over these are hung gold sequins. Her yoke is in deep red velvet with silver- ed leaves appliqued upon it and there is a wide girdle to match. This young woman is the dressiest Spanish Princess since Eulalie, and between her and Alfonso there 18 much affectionate regard. A youni American woman, who is & guest of Mrs. Foxhall Keene at the lat- ter's country place in England, wore, on the occasion of the reception of guests not lonf ago, & most striking naln{‘ae. The callers were Americans who had run down to make personal inquiry for Mr. Keene after his accident. This gown was made of liberty ribbon four inches wide, alternating with bands of heavy insertion. The stripes ran around the gown and there was nothing to vary it from the neck to the border of the rather long train, But through the inser- tion there were two strips of narrow ribbon run in such a way that the ribbon was tled at frequent Intervals in little how knots. At the rather high Josephine walist line the ribbon was drawn up to make an Em- pire waist and here it was finished with an Empire chou, which is an immense satin rosette with tralling ends, falling to the floor. The neck was finished In the same way, but above it there was worn 2 chemisette of lace, with wired collar. The Paisley designs are used for house gowns and rather quaint the;_/r look with their plain band trimmings. These Pals- leys come in many colors and in the true old-time patterns, resembling those of long ago, when ‘“‘wrappers’’ were in and everybody had a figured one. Even the men wore dressing gowns of these figured stuffs, things in which no man would now appear. Yet they are to return foy men as well as women, they say. . The Vogue for Kid. The vogue for kid has touched the room robe. Kid belts in tan color and in color- leathers are clasped with gold fasten- ings; and yokes of fild are seen, but not 80_frequently. The kid necktie is worn with the shirt waist and there are cunning little kid pockets to hang on the beit, and kid stocks, consisting of a high, straight band fastened with a buckle. Kid will be. ver, fashionable, hoth in suede and enamel, and in Rus the kid hats are coming in. It would be a wise wom ‘who, looking at the newest room robes, would declare that the balloon sleeve was not in. Thera is so little difference between the full sleeve with Its overhanging shoulder and the genuine old-fashioned balloon that it €8 an expert to dee it. And even then he will fool himself. v A handsome house gown of velling, re- sembling albatross in its fineness, had very full sleeves that were shirred at the wrlst and.finished with a ruffle of lace. The upper.part of the -gown'had the Gipsonian finish with wide plaits turning back toward the shoulder; and those plaits were so bullt that they actually overhung the sleeve and looked very much like the familiar sleeve cap. The epaulette {s certainly worn, and doubtless the day of the crinolined sleeve i Kl ta e, s _sal at a certain very well. known New Yn& ladies’ taflor has stored in his violet chests several handsome tall. ored gowns for women, with alloon THE~ LILLIAMN - T R Ry S R A most satisfactory. If the summaer underwear is attractive, the summer’s outer wear is positively al- I . Not only are there new fabrics, gut “l‘l"‘g'ul-la'hlaholdla ow “presse the service of making s Day here :nm wm‘;’1 : o t one can now have a . th Mdon hb‘lz l:“ l:u.ul that a minde ¥ u of denim in the ity be m ning all over duas. ues and cheviots of 1t is pu“mdmblu fact that black and seem to have taken the place of pemontes il go0ds that wers once B R Chear “aead “white and" the dull bl change is distinctly more be- O HOUL DR vr-:-x.n- s.ceves, ‘Lhey are part of the stock of seven years ago. Seeing tnat the fashion was so becoming that it must return, he laid away these gowns and is only walt- ing the day for bringing them out. The New Chou. ‘There is a pretty finish that is used for negligees of all sorts. It is the ribbon chou made a little differently. The rib- bon is knotted in a hard full knot and from it hang no less than twelve ends. These are cut dlagonally, and a single knot led In each one an inch from the end of the ribbon. Until you have made one of these choux you cannot guess how very pretty it is. It trims the corset cover rettily, and, if made of very soft ribbon, t takes up no room. For the nightle it is quite ideal, for it gives that long, graceful line that is in keeping, and for the room robe it is also very pretty. The beauty of the new muslins have en- couraged the fancy for black underwear, particularly the black slumber robe. It rather shocks one’s traditions to go to dressed in black, but there are more shocking utrrnnlval. ‘ Six dear little black muslin robes of night, each one trimmed with its own va- riety of colored lace, pink, blue, pale yellow, white and black, mi ceptable addition to o robe. They fold away like white mull, take up no more room than white, laun~ der as well and look a great deal better, ‘Women who spend the summer in very fashionable hotels are setting their seam- stresses at these night robes. They must e dy and they are and around the elbows with ribbon. The elbow slesve is finished with the little ribbon shirring and with a fall of lace. The new rest-awhile robes are in black muslin-and are very Frenchy with thelr trimmings of pink-colored lace. For ' traveling, for - hotel wear, for fire emergencies and for a room breakfast, have diamonds of lace set across the yoke OF ‘embroldery. Hame thmeren" b Tock, Lo Ty, ot the lace, anc :;'1?::' each “there wfll“ga a distinctive Squares of Louisine silk are also set in {oks-. and around each square there is a ittle passementerie. Around the passe- l.l:dnhfll therem be some embroidery, 80 on unf the next uare begins the laborious work, all ov-r.lqlnln. In summer coats are many novelties, one of these the coat that is all kilted. It is in face cloth, or in very lightweight velvet. It is open all the way down the front and there is a belt of kid. That ives an idea of its shape. The skirt, or © part below the belt, iles in stitched kilts, while the part above the belt is kilted, except for the broad sallor collar sdged with lace. The sleeves fl' mous toward the band and ufi cuffs trimmed with white lace. The Russian biouse coat is another of the summer models. It is a very short blouse, with a beit, and with a frill of not more than three inches. It is made in linen and in cloth, in velvet and in serge. It is for wear like a blazer, highly ser- Viceable and always becoming. The coat, With skirts and a belt, seems for the tima being to have driven out the littls straight coat, yet one does see the short ccnventional coat doing duty with some very smart costumes. Let the lace collar be part of your sum- mer wardrobe, and let it be so large as to look almost like a cape. Moreover, let ulzlem be as numerous as your purse will allow. You will want a Tudor collar with the front falling almost to the beit. Them you will want the lace sallor collar. Besides this there is a curious collar which s of every lace “set” and which is merely a shoulder trimming. The newest lace col- lar is one that is in three tabs in fromt, a\lm shaped with the middle one very ide. It is a collar that is plain in front and fastened in the g that baby look to the face which the plain front always does give. There is one variety of lace collar which is, untorum.l tely, v‘.‘.bu'. once ; _expens ts usefulness can ed. It is long in front, so long © the front tab tucks under the beit. Over the shoulders there are mired, and that is so necessary. Still another skirt that asks for recog- nition is the ome that is made without fullness of sort, front or back, until within a few inches of the floor. This is the sheath skirt with a vengeance, and a tallor who makes a Ity of this tl‘!lt: skirt actually fitted one so snugly that poor victim cannot be seated. nm the skirt she is stunning, it is ds it such a gar- m“muL ¥ would care to By far the greater number of goodtail- ors and dmggakan advocate the skirt that has a box plait in the back, perhaps to hold it flat, but gh a lt- tle tullness, Skirts with yokes are tucked, or with box plaits s or ‘with fullness ini in some . are liked by the best tallors