The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 11, 1902, Page 7

4 by Katherme Morton Square, round or sloping, they are beautiful if exactly modeled and full of expres —In classic times they were broed strong—The present fashion calls for the Patrician type of a century ago—How to develop the mus- cles ar correct outstanding shoulder blades. curve, unhampered standing out in graceful relief; beholds wonderfully beautiful shoul- By as ope iz- ders—the dream of all true arti quare are the shoulders of adonna, but for his celestial - shael chose shoulders narrow 1. Gainsborough gives us fmall, highly bred shoulders; with Du and heroic. agreed. Maurier they are square ture altogether shoulde Anna as the The urse, sloping of Ibbetson,” her graces. of It can only be them® wige crred and hori- ound a litt auto aug! And hi ‘02 Autocratic, e [ e ® o @ 3 ® L Q = [ (] g " f automobiles, as well of sewing machines. Send @ ¢ ¢ " fFicial l%v;mr(' of the Automobile Club of America’ © « est from New York to Buffalo. It proves beyond all e perior in every detail to all other carriages, : % iilt of any kind that the average b4 The man who builds them can @ can run a White—no water glass, no burn- @ : to do but turn on and off the power and & N ated cog wheels to break, no sparking devic 3 no smoke, no smell, no vibratio: No defect- ? which on most zasoline wagons multiplie i enance to several times that of the White car- ghest class of workmanship and best materials in it and (] rt¢ that make repair bills about one-fenth of ¢ ther Write for 1802 catalogue, or eall : s e ve us an opportun of proving our & t is the cheapest.” If you'buy a cheap 4 ¢ t ar expensive in the long run than ‘ff - 4 e in the beginping, to say nothing of the loss of the . of it 3 £ time asioned by break-downs and repairs. ) D o ¢ WHITE SEWING MACHINE CO e . @ . [ < C. A Hawk ns, Gen. Mgr. g - 2 300 Post Street, Cor. Stogckton. e e Tel. Black 1106, San Erancisco, Cal. § e conscientious person taought he ought to own an auto, to, bought an auto, just because he thought he ought t: o sought w0 auto, as an auto ought to auto, nd that naught the aute ought to do was what it sought to. agent fooled him cn another make of auto— , later pattern, one just out for 19-02. / he’d bought a 02 autc which would run as autos ought to, e later that the bought new ’C2 auto t’s he thoaght a ’02 auto ought to auto. Then ne bought a s troubles all took flight For it worked exactly right— The Auto Kiny, utos just the auto which a wise man ought to auto, always autos as an auto always ought to. his auto fail him; never will he say this auto ht's le thought a 02 auto ought to auto. auto, which to auto is delight— utomatic, A '02 White, the 02 White. uto King, a '02 White. 000602 0200080000000000000000000000000002300€60290 SP0CO00023002002090932200005202009350 tal, but she doubtle arm c the pretty d on is for small shoul¢ s. and all his uccessors in French ire, writing of the squarest women in the world, writ fashion ‘in_shoulders is a e Sir Joshua Reyr Is type, m the long, grad- was. {e patrician line ot a iady was bound to have it. 7The Reynolds shoulder had a deeper slope, however, than that of the twesi- tiet cen beile, but no more beauti- ful art curve he wily beaut ho owns a perfect knows it to be one s, discreetly she turns he on you, can easily forgive ‘how lovely her face. Shoulders seem to.have some hint of the secret of eternal youth th the lips and the eyes. Even afte has lined the face and throat, shoulders retain ‘their freshne smoothness and fair- They need care and attention, ofscourse, and often it is left to the owner to de- velop the shoulderd—to make them beau- tiful, firm and self-reliant. To be -confronted with outstanding shoulder blades'is a hard fate. But once a woman concedes the point, and con- fe to herself that she is in danger of havir mall, angular ‘and featherless wirn and that she would rather be a woman than an angel, there is little or nothing in the way of flattening that may not be accomplished, and in a few weeks' time, with the ald of a little pa- tient intelligence, she may give herself the shoulders of perfect womanhood. The trouble all lies with three muscles, and that they are troublesome may be judged from their names—trapezius and rhomboidei. The formeér is one large mus- cle which begins.at the base of the skull and continues down the spine for some way, branching out en route to the shoul- der blades; the rhomboidei are the two muscles between. One very good exer- cise for brir them into subjugation, if they are refractory, to move the arms in a circle from the ulders until the shoulders supple that the backs of the be placed to- gether behind the wr without cur: of the arms. The circling of the arm from the shoulder inward, not outward, is andther aid for acquiring a gracetul contour. Another helpful exercise is to lie face downward, place the hands under the shoulders, and raise the body upon the knees until the arms are straight. For the second movement raise the body up until the toes and hands are the only points of support. While lying face downward, if the aid of a friend can be invoked, massage should be applied. The muscles on each side of the spine are taken between thumb and fingers and rolled; then with the palms of the hands the rhomboidal muscles are kneaded, by using the rotary are so hands can i movement ail the way up and down the spine. i R AT After the massage is over, turn upon the back, that the shoulders may lie perfect- ly flat on the couch for five or ten min< utes, with the head but little inclined. The shoulder . movement forward and backward is very mecessary to correct a stooping carriage and bent back. With the hands resting on the hips, both shoulders’ are first moved forward evenly but vigorously and then drawn backward. The elbor's myst also be moved forward and backward as far as possible, but the upper part of the body and head'is held erect. With the backward movement of the shoulders inhale and with the for- ward movement exhale, . A bent back may be straightened by manipulation; hollows are also filled out in the same way and curves perfected. Almost every one has a low shoulder. This is ‘caused in various ways; certain muscles are contracted when walking, or one shoulder is held higher than the other .or the head is carried a little to one side. Often this one-sidedness is the result of seemingly trifling habits, like leaning to one side while sitting. b To correct a want of uniformity in the shoulders, several times during the day, with the arm dropped by the side, raise the low shoulder slowly but strongly as high as possible, holding ‘it there while counting ten. Then lower slowly. This will by degrees increase the height of the shoulder. A shoulder may be too Ligh as well as too low; in such case draw the high shoulder down, keeping it so for a few moments. Practice this at intervals dur- ing the day. If there is no inequality in the should- ers, it is still a good exerdise to raise and lower the shoulders simultaneously. It not only develops the muscles, strength- ening them if they are weak, but it lifts up the upper ribs, so that the upper por- tion of the cavity of the chest is enlarged and activity of respiration promoted. Important Details. She who has the interest of her shoul- der blades at heart always keeps the following rules tucked away in her mind for immedifte reference: Try to push the shoulder blades to- gether many times during the day. _ Roll the shoulder backward and for- ward. ‘Walk or stand with the hands clasped behind the head and the elbows apart. Stand now and again during the day " with all the posterior parts of the body, mo far as possible, touching a vertical wall. Put the hands on the hips with the elbows back and the fingers forward. To make the skin satiny In texture and ivory white in color, the- shoulders need an occasional kneading with an emollient. Nothing Is better than: Cream balm—White wax one dram, paraffin one-half dram, ofl of sweet al- monds three drams. Melt over a gentls heat, stirring well, then add ten drops of extraet of violet. A rough skin can be made fine, soft and beautiful by this treatment together with frequent bathing of the shoulders in very warm water, followed by a dash of cold water. If the skin is oily an aromatic vinegar should be used once or twice a week. The following s a valuable recipe: Aromatic vinegar—Alcohol three ounces, acetic acld one-half ounce, crushed gum camphor one dram, ofl of rosemary one- half dram, oil of bergamot one-quarter dram, oil of cinnamon one-quarter dram, oil of lavender one-quarter dram, ofl of neroli one-quarter dram. Mix and shake well until the camphor is dissolved. Keep iIn a tightly corked bottle and pour a little into the bath water. Always bathe the shoulCers with distilled or rose water. A paste for the shoulders and arms which gives firmness to the flesh is made by adding to the beaten whites of two eggs two or three teaspoons of rose water and one-half tablespoon of alum. Spread on the " shoulders and cover with a linen cloth. Keep on over night or all the evening before going to the dance. Typewriter [nvention That Will - Send Messages. T is possible now for the, operator of a typewriting machine td print a let- ter, send it, at the same time, by ‘wire, to a distant place, and have it re- corded in print on a similar machine. The combination of typewriting machine and electrical apparatus that enables the operator to perform the feat is known as the typo-telegraph. The printing telegraph system in this " particular Instance has passed the experi- mental stage and as two machines have been in operation for some time in the office of the superintendent of telegraph of the Long Island Rallroad Company in the station in Long Island City the in- ventor has reasons for hoping that his system may revolutionize all existing methods of telegraphic communication by land wires, because of its quickness, sim- plicity and cheapness. He say at his invention can be operated over any dis- tance; that any number of intermediate stations can be included; that It will transmit messages at a speed beyond the skill of the most rapid operator; that the correct transmission of messa; s in- sured absolutely; that it will supplant the stock ticker, and that it may be placed on circuits in conjunction with the tele- phone for private use. In operation the operator strikes a key and sends a combination of electrical fm- pulses through the contact points and the distributor. The proper bar receives through its magnet the Impulses and prints the letter, numeral or sign indi- cated on the key. At the same time the impulses go over a line wire and repeat the operation on a similar machine. For instance, the combination for the letter key for A sends one impulse, then two A may be 12l. The pressing down of the key for A sends one impulse, then two impulses and then one impulse. The elec- trical apparatus picks them up and dis- tributes, them to the magnet of the type bar of A. The bar moves to its place of printing and the impression on paper fol- lows. After the impression the motor moves the roller carriage along and the machine is ready for the sending of more fmpulses. The rapidity of the operation is equal to that of ordinary typewriting and superior to that of the system of teles graphing fn common use. The impulses can hardly be distinguished, one from tha other. Each combination goes through during the downward movement of each key or the space bar. Of course, the machine at the recelving end of the line must have its electrical apparatus arranged for combinations stm- flar to those of the sending machine. The impulses go through properly except dur- ing line disturbances, as in ordinary teleg- raphy. By the use of the first four num- erals the combinations can be almost un- limited: In private use the sending and receiving machines can employ selected and secret combinations. On circuits for business messages and press news re- ports the several machines can employ general combinations. The combinations can be changed at ahy time, so that the .leakage of Information by wire tapping can be avoided. The current necessary for operation is the same as that for or- dinary telegraphing. By means of a sim- ple switch the line can be used for the Morse system, the telephone or the typo- telegraph. The typo-telegraph, it has been claimed, can be operated over any telephone circuit, and a message can be printed in the absence of a subseriber. The inventor maintains that the typo- telegraph may be arranged so that a mul- tiplex system can transmit six messages simultaneously over one wire—thres in opposite directions—allowing 240 words n minute for two Gperators. Under such a system the message would be recorded on a tape. The two machines in Long Island City have been operated over a line to Mon- tauk Point by the south shore and return by the north shore, so that the tests un- der climatic conditions have been satis- factory to the inventor and the superin- tendent of telegraph of the railroad com- pany. Until now information concerning the invention and its operation has been confined to a few persons—Brooklyn Daily Eagle. Longest and Most Costly Tun- nel in the World. HE railway tunnel under the Simp- lon Pass between Switzerland and Italy is the biggest thing of its kind yet attempted. A quarter of a cen- tury ago such a project would have been quite infeasible. It differs from the Mount Cenis, Mount St. Gothard and Ariberg tunnels not only In being longer, but also in being a continuous rock tunnel, uncon— nected with the outer air by a single ver- tical shaft. Its length will be 19,731 meters—mors than twelve miles—as against 15,000 me- ters for the Gothard, 12,800 for the Cenis and 10,300 for the Ariberg. On the other hand, it will be only 657 meters—less than 2300 feet—above sea level, whereas the altitudes of the others range from 3300 to 4600 feet. The low elevation avoids the steep grades of the other lines and se- cures for the approaches comparative im~ munity from snow blockades and ava- lanches. At some points the tunnel will be more than a mile below the surface of the mountain. This fact at once suggests one of the difficulties of the work. The tem- perature of borings In level countries rises a degree for each fifty-five feet of de- scent. In mountain borings the increasa is less rapid, but the most favorable esti- mates predict & temperature of 104 de- grees Fahrenheit for the deepest part of the tunnel. In the central part of the Gothard tun- nel, where the temperature was only 83 degrees, the men could work only five hours a day and had every third day off. In the Simplon workings the tempera~ ture is lowered and the air, vitiated by human exhalations and the smoke of ex- plosives, is renewed by means of ventilat- ing pumps of 500 horsepower, which fur- nish 3600 cubic feet of fresh air per sec- ond. The tunnel is being worked fro both ends at once. On June 30 the Itali end had attained a length of 5000, the Swiss of 4000 meters. The work is there-. fore nearly half dome. It was begun August 1, 1898, The date fixed for its completion is May 1, 1904. The cost of actual construction is limited to §14,000,- 000, but auxiliary and unforeseen expenses will probably bring the total cost up to. $16,000,000. The Mount Cenis tunnel cost, in pxropo".lon to length, just half as much again. ."Lehq workmen employed number 3560. The method of construction is original and ingenious. Instead of a double track tunnel, as at Mount Cenis and Mount St. Gothard, there will be two single track tunnels about sixty feet aparf. These are being pushed forward simultaneous- 1y, but only one of them is being enlarged to’ its ultimate dimensions, lined and fin-. ished. The other serves for the present as a working tunnel, for ventilation, drainage and the removal of wreck,