The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 27, 1902, Page 15

DAY CALL, = A DOWS 1 HER WEEDS MAY SwE AR Pl AS K. FASE <L OTH rs, ranging trom light w A there are a great es of cloth and other material, the pe- and muct slor as upon ng pink beit and not Of « urse it on t is blouse buckle to m of the the front or elabora Mrs. Jack Astor in Bisque. shade or has a new \g but after true & ther the way, are and They ever so lit idea of slored gleves becoming very coior. The f peach iow in the neck r peach the s the waisted k, with the entire we trimmed with a curtain of white 12 he eves are large ones, with the drapcd around the wrists, heavily ch finished with & curtain of lace the fitted flounce—or volante—is trimmed on perfeetly piain, bottom with a bove alled ordered top and gold gimj With Not Much Money. t of much ingenuity and see that bisque cloth h, made up in an Eton » low in the neck, cut nd back, and worn over taffeta shirt waist. would ok ver this suit, and every whit as without probably costing anything like as much. e question of how much to pay for a tailored suit at this time of year is more to the woman with lit- mc to spend. The White House agitation about dressing on $300 a yedr called attention to the fact that $0 was not considered an exorbitant Sum to pay for a tallor-made dress. And it is not. In the light of the cost of the material and the amount of work which is put on the new tallored suits, $# is cheap, and the woman with $0 to spare for a cloth suit should not hesitate sbout expending it in this manner. The tailored suits that sell for $100 are 1 worth the money also. They can be finitely, for they are of e goods that they do not shrink colop, and they will keep their You can wear them spring for several seasons, or until you can afford to get another $¥0 suit a fact, an undeniable fact, that great many estimable feel as though they » pay $100 for a single suit e even womeén who have to dr spring on $100, and part of the such very not se to 'advise a woman with $160 to- go out and spend it on a colored cloth gown. For, how will ¥, her stitched-back glc and will her tallor-made. boat-shaped come in, and where is she to get the flufty boa, all of satin ribbon loops, which e is to throw around her neck? The New Small Things. doing without gloves and boa and her old hat go, she must still r her shoes. Colonial ties are in, the dull finish leather shoes and the without gloss. Then. too, the low tent leathe with buckles on the in- and the shoes with the new high s that are easy to walk in beca: so square—all in. And the shell-pat- terned stockings in shades to match the gown. he matter of a black silk petticoat h she be a wom mus!ifi silk 1 E 1d she must have a tight-roll t silk umbrella with a gold handie uttons a ounce on a with her bisque suit. the dress isn’t all! One must have litile fixings, and the big belongings: 1 with every nice suit there are enough Il things to equal the cost of the The little wrist bags are so neces these days, made of beads, verse side in silk. The under side should not be beaded, because of the fact that beads tear the skirt and wear it out in The watch fob of ribbon, to match the gown, with gold trimmings, is very nec- essary and the long neck chain, which is worn more than ever. As a matter of fact, those who dress with good taste and plenty of money are buying two waists with every nice stre suit, and two hats. Whether one has two waists or not, one should have two hats 3 e one owns a gown of that popu- terial, homespun, of light weight And suppose it be in that latest furor of color, brick red. A gown of this kind is astefully trimmed with ~black taffeta bands and with black trimmings in the form of very narrow passementerie, and ¥ narrow black lace, no wider than ribbon. *The skirt is made in the pre- for homespun, plain, with a blouse. open all the way down the front, to show the underwaist. T straps across it at the bust line, and half way between the bust and belt. These are of homespun bands, bound with black silk, Two Hats for Each Gown. With such a gown two hats are recom- mendable. One should be a black, wheel- shaped hat, raised at the side. Under the raised portion there can be a black bird’s wing or two wings, both pointing back. This hat, which is to be all black and serviceable, is made entirely of sehalr, to give its plain name, and will r all kinds of wear without tearing. It positively is not injured by the weather. A little waterproof mallne- is twisted around the brim and the top is in several varieties of horsehair treated so that it is very smart. Some of the finest of the Fifth-avenue hafs are of this material. These hats are delightful anti there are few .women who do not own one or two. The other hat is a dressier one, and is & large boat-shaped hat of satin straw. The sides turn up a very little and the hat is large. Its crown is very simply trimmed with a bunch of roses at one side. One side of the hat is lifted a trifle to show a few pink roses nestling next the hair, The brim is trimmed with black lace, falling like a curtain over the face, and at the back there are curtain tabs. Black lace is pretty, but so is white, and one should consider one’s uses for the hat be~ fore choosing. If one is deft with _the needle one can buy a hat trimmed with a white lace sash, and afterward remove it for the black lace curtain. The part which black muslin is to play in the summer’s wardrobe can be only surmised. Every modiste is making a black muslin gown and there are numer- ous gowns of this material for sale. TRIMMED WiTH PEA SmEEN 15 R D [ =% //‘IV(‘I? v =S Y T, NNEr R edal LAVENDE & 2?!-1. TQUED \wiTh 1 ABRAD, Black muslin comes with a silky finigh that makes it look dike sk and it is.46. iustrous that it takes the place ‘of expensive material It i3 not ‘dlwags cheap. either wears pretty weil and does not cc much as the mous- i crepes and the delicate’ light h it replaces. goods wh Mrs. Mackay’s Blue Gown. Xay, a beautiful dress of pale Mrs. Clarenc Iways so neats wned, wea cloth with a jacket which turns with reversed front. The back of coliar is cut separate. The front of jacket, as it turns back, shows loz- snges of black muslin covered with dia- Wds of lace. This makes the gown and the lozenges are not as heavy anfl awkward as though they were of vel- vet. The flounce of this gown is entirely of the; bl s e covered with lace. So many soiree gowns are made of biue muslin, of black muslin, of coral red muslin, and of every other color. One of these, for a summer resort belle, is black with the of the skirt tucked from the belt down The tucks are held by rosettes of white J with lace standing though it were on. To make a lace rosette is not dif- ficult. The lace is shirred along one edge, and the thread i drawn up until the lace irfed around and around, to make a ¥ ornament. cloth, that most delicate of il ings. is being made into street gowns. durability depends entirely upon ¥ to keep the dress clean—and Sometimes it will happen that peach cloth, trimmed, as e dresses are, with black the flounce, and with one's upon lovely gown i so many of tk velvet band a wid, t ‘belt' holding in ‘the X1V coat, will meet with misfor- tune at the fir: One' unhappy breeze from an one spdttering from the muddy wheels of a passing cab, one unfortunate small boy with sooty elbows, and the gown is gone! Again, and it can be worn indefinitely; and, after- noon_ after afternoon it can grace the ave- nue as one takes one's daily promenade. It is in entirely good taste ¢his yeer to wear these gowns on the street. A very fastidious woman whose taste runs to these light gowns, for she is slen- der and graceful, declares that she has worn a cloud gray suede cloth every af- ternoon for two weeks lling and walk- ing, and that it positively shakes clean and clear after each wearing. It is trimmed with turquoise, with a very little pearl panne bordering the tur- quoise to make it still more delicate, The hat is a great black one, with a plums eighteen inches long sweeping the brim; and the gloves which this woman wears are black suedes, while her belt and stock' are also black. This is a very French costume. The Silk Dust Coats. The dust coats are going to.help out a little when these light cloth dresses ars under consideration. They are made in black taffeta, and most of them have stiff suede cuffs that turn back, and set out in the style which all the Lopis kings liked. These smart flaring cuffs are ap- pliqued with white lace lozenges as big as a silver dqllar. and are very striking. Most of the' black silk dust coats have sailor collars, very wide and trimmed with white lace lozenges. They are fas- tened in front with.a wide black silk sash that floats nearly to the floor. The made sgash should have a chapter of its own. It is of black silk, cut on the bias, with hemmed edges. At the bust, where the sash is fastened, in the case of the long coat it is made into a big rosette with a hook underneath that does the work of fastening. There is a black silk strap which buttons over the bust, and another strap below it. The black silk dust coat flies open, and though it has a partly fitted back, like an English racing coat, it is a loose garment and one that s gracefully elegant. It does protect the light cloth gown a Httle, and for driving and traveling is just the thing. It is pretty for evening, wear and is easily slipped off at the theater. It is graceful for walking, but will not do for the pedestrian girl, as it is so long that it requires constant holding up. It should touch the ground all the way around. In lifting this coat'lift the skirt of the dress with it. All should be carried together in one big handful. The Lovely Black Gowns. The woman who likes to make herself look slender by wearing all black can have her taste beautifully catered to with black gowns that are more than all the mode. They come with a little color.in them, that takes away their somberness and makes them look springlike. A very good black c'oth had a skirt with, a flounce very deep in the back, and was headed ‘all the way around with a little black braided velvet trimming, very heavy and as wide as your thumb. There was a little aluminum in the black vel- vet. The waist was a blouse, full in the front and coming down with a big puff that would have been trying to any but‘a slender figure. The shoulders of this gown were Gibsonian, fitted with four sailor-like collars, one extending beyond * the other, to make a very broad-should- ered effect. Bach was edged with this, black velvet trimming. To lighten this gown into springiness there was an opportunity for a very gay ‘N PALE shirt waist, which was to reveal itself through the open blouse. Another black suit was In coat shape, with a vest of light blue. This buttoned down in front with little white pearl but-' tons, and was very pretty. The, blue vest 'was pointed at the belt, and the importer assured the customer who was looking at it with a view to purchasing that the vest could be entirely removed in the summer time and the little coat left open in front, with its wide-flaring lapels, revealing a shirt waist of any kind that might be ‘worn. b4 .The Summer Shirt Waist. It s not the time to speak of shirt waists, when one is on the fascinating topic of full length, much tailored gowns for the street, yet how can one think of summer without them? To say that they are varied means lit- tle; to declare that they are made of every material means a great deal. That they are fashioned of every fabric that comes from the loom is no exaggeration, and to assert- that they are trimmed in a great many ways but faintly voices the numer- ous styles in which they are found. ‘Handsome shirt walsts are made by s ng one’s ordinary waist across the front with Princess of Wales bands. These are black velvet bands put on y, with a rosette no bigger than a cherry'at each end of the band. Three bands, diagonally across the front, of graduating length, the widest one at the top, will trim up an ordinary or a plain shirt waist. They are taking shirt walsts that have shirt sleeves and wearing muslin sleeves under them, with the muslin draped heav- ily around the hand. To do this is not difficult. The foundation of it all is the puffed undersieeve, which is gathered into a little band at the wrist. But instead of puffing the undersleeve, one can take it and lay it in sideolaits in the cuff, and this gives the draped effect, as a shirred or gathered puff will not do. Sometimes the back of the sleeve is lald. in plaits, three inches wide, so that the puff ap- pears as though it were laid in big folds. It is odd to note the itghtness of the up- per part of the sleeves and the great baggy draped lower part. But that is the style and the summer girl must bow to it, and not only that, but she must em- brace and imitate it and follow it out as though she loved it. Broad Shoulder Effects. There are a few slender souls to whom the tight shoulders and the little tight up- per sleeves are not becoming, and for these there are the Gibsonian shoulders, which are made by plaiting the front of the waists and turning the plaits back toward the shoulders. This is not hard to do at all and there is a curlously broad ary ALBATROYS SHIRT TRIHP‘IE:NsT WITH STITCHED SANDS o SLovh g Mrs. John Jacob Astor wears a gown of bisque cloth, trimmed with peach colored choux, while Miss Randolph- ‘Whitney is in pink cloth, with lozenges of Havana brown velvet, and Mrs. Mackay | wears a light blue cloth trimmed with black, with white lace diamonds—The new wrinkles in gloves, parasols, shirt waists and hosiery. + lock given by this little trick of folding the plaits. All the cloth gowns, it is safe to say every one of them, are made so that a shirt waist can be worn beneath. Many of them really demand a shirt walst, for the neck of the dress shows, and the vest There come little false vests to be slipped in and necks that are like berthas. But, after all, it is better to have a shirt waist beneath the little cloth coat so that the latter can be slipped off. This is the almost universal custom and the woman who is getting a cloth suit better have it fitted over a taffeta shirt walst which may be ever so plain, yet can have a pretty lace stock and a little strip of ribbon for a belt. Such a waist is no more than a corset cover in matter of thickness, and is so very comfortable when it comes to the convenience of being able to sHp off one’s waist or coat. To make the figure slender they are fitting wide ribbons to a stiff band. The band is hooked around the waist and the ribbons hang down. Just above the knees they are attached to a flounce, which acts as a petticoat. Thus one wears a skirt that is only a skeleton above the knee. The Sunbonnet Girl. Of the sunbonnet girl one hears a great deal as summer approaches. That she is to be in our midst there is no doubt. It is a little early for her, but she is com- ing—coming. To be able to meet her in her own regalia it is best to have a sun- bonnet made and ready. The straight band bonnets are to be the style. They have a little ruffie around the face and the back is baggy Ior the hair to fit in. The feature is the elaborately heavy stitching which holds the bonnet very firm. It {s in the pastel muslins, and in the delicate pinks and greens, and the sun colors, and the colors of violet and grass and all sorts of vernal hues. Such a bonnet must rcally be part of your wardtobe for it will be worn for the grassy sports, for tennis, croquet and tne pretty English games that are rall the rage. Several belles are making dozens these bunnets, all a little small for the head, so that they set high in a chie manner. They are trimmed with white lace and have large streamers that can of be tied in a fat and very slaborate bow under the chin. Sashes and sunbonnets go together, and the summer girl will sport a muslin sash ‘with a muslin sunbonnet. There is a Maxine Elliott sunbonnet that flares at the face. The front.is turned back so that It is reversed and éisplays a reverse lining, which is elab- orately embroidered in colored wash silks. One of these bomnets is in Peking silk with front turned back broadly, and is stitched with white wash silk, which outlines great pink roses, all worked by hand. The big silk coaching cape Is coming in, ‘but it is one of the Viennese novel- tles.. It Is a large, long cape, cut so tha it does not meet in front. The whole | costume is displayed through the float- ing open fromt, and the neck is caught with ribbons made up in immense cheux. The floating end, as pa“t of the sum- mer fashlons, is something that must also have Its chapter. Ends must fioat wherever possible, and never mind wheth- er they are of taffeta, or ribben, or chit- fon, or of velvet—just so you have ends floating from your neck and belt and from your hat—yes, and from the sides of your coat. One of the most fashicnac hle women in New York has rosettes upon the lapels of her coat, and from rosettes there hang ends at least a long, four ends from each rosette, fiying in the breeze,