The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 27, 1902, Page 10

THE SUNDAY CALL. the 1 poem, and if by ness of her nces her natural endow- s, she makes herself a pleasing pic- r, before one arrives at ummation, which may the happiness and the of I one must study the harmonious and in- and colors. Color ce in dress her compiexion, eyes color scheme is a have asserted for rue that it reguires no n with & keen ations to live up must “sacrifice r eyes to hats , exer much self-denial as though she were e her weight or to im- he Empire practigal il riety in the »ings that one st wn any hard and that may be placed those »mplexior ental; the caprices of taken into account made somewhat « ic se, dedicated to is a color for bru- is not generally know brunette, whose rather high oring takes sometk from the refine ment of her appeara in a gown of es her h d looks pret Green is is becoming to thc helps out with its nts the intermediate uman complexion. A brightens the natural bril- dark . complexio the red of the cheek g to the eye a cl A blonde re the brunette. Too give to the rdne ier, more another color and it iires a soft inned woman a s ok. But it is well to s color, as well as all others, ca o reu e blue is generally consil e eyes, it Yellow is the blonde’s own color. “I never worn vellow in my life, M flaxen-haired de the Parisian dress ounced that he give yellow tulle gown. but you must wear yellow,” said tocrat, “then you will be a blonde sunsh Shades of ta are also for the owns that glow rts. Rose is equal- or brunette; the nited to temnestra, while old r shade is for fair- otrope may be wi cauly ()vy/t ; " D 0- )) 7 and scarlet gives tone te her skin and P‘/ i g <, blacked-eyed Augustas, who are f{ neither blondes nor brunettes, but just “mediums” or chatain, the following ‘ hints may be of benefit: If hair is dark and eyes blue, in choos- ing a gown seek to match the eyes and * f ‘ contrast the hair. One rule in selecting or the vast army of girls, fair-haired color is o match the hair by day and the eves by night. If the complexion is sal- low and the hair a nondescript brown, shades of red and brown are good, no matter what the color of the eyes, also broad masses of one tin If the hair is black and complexion swarthy, avoid black and all shades of mauve, green and violet; vellow, scarlet and pink are to be chos: If fair, with no trace of color, the com: plex n can be lightened by the a-dition of rose or yellow, glowing purple, dark nd dark jgreen. She of the r selects blue cheek range. pale blue and a bea 3 nt of violet shading t0' blue, called Yeux Dagmar, after the Princess Dagmar. Bluc eyes and dark brown hair, and ThEese: Poreyr, complexic t i¢ not clear, require col- o~ Eyes, pmne ~~0} ors muc ker than the skin, or much e lighter. and, between the face and tl BRov .y ~emo, color sc tin soften the contrast. ovr = THE Sy s o' THIS mary Avoid delicate shades of pink, lavende ar makes the skin 1 all blues. except a Geep navy: hla rker and wear fancy o shades iin colors duller. Instead of y tints, mottled or c ouded, mixed - -+ Beauty is cultivated and oft- en developed by a knowledge of color, which must suit eyes, | hair and complexion Correct shades for blonde, brunette, red-haired and pale women. The sallow complexion best re- lieved by broad masses of ona & tint—The hat brings out good points or accentuates bad ones. &= X3 up starply in the front, as -t lcoks as th it wis a contimus tion of the A Lat fa at th: sides 1s one thy she can wear; also a turban or toque, in soft folds, ost becoming. For the woman with height, weight and color, hats are a difficult question. She must be cautious in this matter to the point of cowardice. - Few flares and few feathers and flowers, except when the last are closely massed with much foliage and always tending to dark tints. No flutter- ing chiffon strings or perky pempons for TrE o, the modern Brunnhflde. She must be .5 EL -4, tautly rigged as a vacht, ready to takas Haoes of every breeze without a loose end flutter- CRe=n ing. (3 I i i nteresting Details. M 215’6' rew Jewels should be worn with regard to D’a’l—tnk. eolor. Highly colored gems, rubies and o351 C":flfle P eméralds do not look well with shades of 2 A X/ ON, blue and red, but show best with pearl wER LOOK O THRow snre color er white; topaz harmonizes with INNOCENT, ECL'/'sr THE Beo oF browns and yellow. The pearl is of all 5 % EEK Any, precious stones the likeliest to soften the W”;’,{:g" ; e g face. Diamonds detract from the brill. lancy of eyes and teeth. If the eyes are <SLASSIC aull, do not make them seem more 80, by being 1 trying than'smcoth tints. Do Only a raging beauty can wear carme- is for the blonde, cream white for the with black, of course, are the colors un- patriclan type or the brilliancy of a Ru- - putting sparkling or brilliant rhinestones not think from this, however, that one lite, silver, dove and mist gray, and they ' brunette. It is not the woman in white der which flesh seems least ostentatious, bens beauty. Tt s suited rather to the near them. As to rings, many or none may choose indiscriminately all the tints are most dangerous to use unless in com- who has all the attention, and the wide- while ‘wedgev-ood blue, pale gray, and al- large-faced beauty than to a woman with shoyld be worn. An exquisite hand re- to make a Scotch plaid or an bination with white, as they not only plek eyed young thing in white, with a blue most any shade of red are to be avolded. a simall face who must not hide it under quires no jewels, but the charm of one it B e BB out facial defects, but give emphasis to ribbon, who captures all the beaux. It Mauve and the higher shades of green a bushel. . She can better wear a close- less perfect in shape, If it be white, is o the elightest blemish. One way to as- added to thy charms, Andromeda. When, arc the two colors that in decoration clinging toque. The round-faced, plump enhanced by a blaze of gems. certain the hue which best becomes one clothed In white, thou didst traverse the apout the throat and shoulders are espe- beauty may wear a hat turning back Nearly every woman believes that a is to take fabrics of different colors, and isle of Seriphos.” clally helpful in diminishing the effect of from the face: one following too closely black velvet band heightens the beauty standing before a mirror in a well-lighted “Black suits the fair,” Ovid tells us. the flesh, the outline of the face suggests'the fram- of her neck, when in low corsage. Espec- beware of pink and room try the effect of each by wrapping It became Brisels; she was dressed in The Value of a Becoming Hat. ing of the full moon. The woman with lally if it be long and slender, does she : green is her color, and white/is it about the neck under the chin; it can black when she was carried off. It is ite and willow green is an ideal mix- ture for the wear of fair young girls with roseleaf complexions. A red head should scarl £ a large, round and rather red face must Insist upon putting black velvet about it, her standby; there are browns, oaks and then be seen which color makes the face the thinmest color & stout. wernan can P oty S i i B om0t DO not crown It with a small hat suitable and thus she makes it ldok evem Tondes copper tints that will make her a mod:1 look clearer and which darker. Color can wear; indeed, the woman who wears lhz'm Ao sy s brings out the good for some fairy. A thin face needs soft, and slenderer. The effect of black clos for an artist. be tested also on the hand; partly cover black to best advantage is she wha . % ten th d ones, not -full framing to tone down all angles. up to'the neck and face is always to If ‘there are any vellow tones in the the hand with the fabric and it makes is stout and has black eyes and black POIntS or accentuates the bad ones, n i i A woman with a retrousse nose should make them Ilook thin. A very stout . es ¢ t of complexion complexion wear brown or tawny shades ' the skin look fair or dark, as It is, or i8 hair. It is an echo from Paris that ju ©PLY Of eves and hair, but of complexio; c ved hat that is bent down directly woman, with a neck too plump, may wear 4 re shape of the head. Let the hat NOt wear a - of yellow, deep crimson, and for evening not becoming. gowns ot :certain colors flesh' Seems. to BrCsiiied b the taton and ol sl in the mrdcle, as*It makes the nose Jook " the blask band to advamtege. Lut the or [vear @ delicate shrimp to make the yel- White makes a woman look big, inno- shrink; in others to expand. A subdusd -forgotien and. forsiven The piotues hay as though it were trying to meet ths hat; woman should wear a string of pearls or low of the skin white. cent, winsome and classic. Clear white shade of blue, heliotrope and olive green, qr the Gainsborough suggests beauty of neither should she wear a hat that goes gold beads. The girl or woman*who is too fat can, by following these di- rections, lose flesh and grow prettier in her movements from day to day. e “ (All rights reserved.) ROM the many letters that have been received two are selected 4 waist is three inches larger should be for my height. >w can 1 reduce it? “A READER. me through the columns able paper some method of ulture by which a soft, flabby Kk n be made firm? And will you rm me the same time, how to ke my neck smaller? It measures big- ger and bigger every day, so it seems I bave difficulty in hook- and when they are hooke e face because the band wering these questions you wiil upon me and upon many 1T beauty sermons. “MRS. B. §. J.” Bot f these readers suffer from the namely that of increasing they do not complain of 1t only of an inconven- nt fullness in certain ‘places. means fat, and fat of the were only possible to make flesh becoming spots, then we would us have less to complain of. If : make fat dispose of itself grace- ¥, going above the belt, into the eeks and bust and upper arms, and elow belt into the hips and calves, t would be pretty and graceful. unfortunately, flesh has 2 way of € 2 it pleases. It gets into the chin and doubles it; and it rounds out the ab- domen unplessantly. At the same time a pufiiness around the eyes, so decrease in size, and it gives ehead a shiny, full look. A Fat Waist. Sometimes, worse fat of all, it goes to the waist and makes it big, depriving the figure of all grace; and it gets under the collar band so that there is litle or no neck. The woman whose waist has grown so large that it is unsightly, and the one whose neck is so chubby that she has to wear a soft ribbon around it.in place of a collar, these are the two women who are in the worse of predicaments from in- creasing fat. For the woman with the big waist there is nothing to be done short of heroic measures. Let her get into en outing suit and try the oxygen cure. She must breathe the frcsh air nearly every wak- ‘ng hour of the day, and she will find o stud! i S - jpecially are brought into play in swing- lock ot Twenty ekips a day will reduce Her friends and family still loved her, had taken one skip, To lift her foot was Bad changed and it was no looeer LODIS studled the matter there s little excu —— Lallpy Apd Firong twelve pounds a month for six months, or until she was down to about 130 pounds. For the neck nothing will do but neck exercise. Try the vaulting pole. The head will swing as you leap and you will gét a slim throat very soon. Do not drink after exercising, but He down and rest, and, if very thirsty, take the julce of an orange. A correspondent writes to know what she shall ‘drink when thirsty. as she has formed the habit of taking a sip of water every few minutés. And water certainly does fatten. This woman can do only one thing— learn to do without drinking between meals. It is only a habit. Take a bite of apple, a piece of orange, a sip of grape fruit, a grape, anything that moistens *he throat, for it ig the throat and not the stomach that is thirsty. Mabel J. writes asking how to take a crop of pimples off her chin. At this time of year a little spring med- icine is necessary. Try a table spoon of phosphate of soda in hot water before breakfast. Take this every other morn= ing for two weeks. In washing the face use a_teaspoon ot W powdered.borax to a quart of water. Wet a soft cloth and hold it on the face very bot, then “spat” the face with the hot water. Do not rub or irritate the pimpl portion. At night rub a little white vaseline int the pimples and in the morning wash off with the hot borax water. This is the simplest of all ways to treat pimples. | they are still obstinate there are other remedes. For Stained Teeth. “My teeth are discolored. What can I do- to remove the stains?” queries a reader. For discolored teeth consult a dentist If sure that your teeth are in order, ther brush them twice a week with the finest powdered pumice. Do not swallow th pumice, but go over the teeth outside and In. Rinse the mouth well and brush the teeth with your regular dentifrice, wh ever that may be.. There are many good dentifrices. Common salt is good for the teeth, but it 1s-a lttle severe. Do not use often, If it smarts the gums do not us it at all. Dentistry is a painful thing, as a. but it is one of the necessary ills of and one_should not, on account of an that, in the cour®e of reuuccon, the very Lreathing of cool, fresh air will help Let the woman with the big st keep her windows open, let her sit on the piazza. and let hér, more than all, take exercise. g Is she a golfer” Ne&? Then let her learn at once. Let her get a neat short skirt and get out on the links. Let her &0 ovef them alone once a day, kncck- ing the ball ahead of her. If you are the woman, and if you are reducing and have no links, then get a bicycle. The sport is as good for you as it ever was, and the cycle is so cheap that you can rd an up-to-date oue. The Outdoor Sports. Take up tennis, no matter how old you are; try croquet—do anything and every- thing" that keeps you out in the air. The only women in the world that never grow fat are those that work out of deors. And those who fatten the quickest are those who work in the heat, over a cook- stove, laying on false flesh and growing narrow of lungs as they broaden in the abdomen. But perhaps you have no links, no ten- nis court, no chance to do anything but e. So you must exercise indoors. hen take to the gymnasium. Convert one room in the house to gymnasium pur- poses. Or organize a physical culture club and hire a room for the , practice thereof. You can really do without all implements except the few that you take with you. The hanging rings, the vault- ing pole and the horizontal bar are ox- cellent and more than excellent, but you can do without them, if you must. Let one of-your exercises be with the golf stic This' can be procured in a moment and the ball is to be picked up anywhere. The very getting into the rignt tion will exercise you a little and you will find that it requires.some practice to balance yourself well and to give the right swing. Lift the ball again and again and then stop to get your breath while the other ’ . . tee player tries her skill. You will soon find 1.',:&“[‘;‘;!“ ds{‘?\(,:;n{,a:}i o:zg_le;':mxean}!m yourself indulging in little friendly com- X wards one for the time as quickly as bats, and the exercise, if practiced with trip to the dentist. open windows, broadens the lungs, gives quickly as a little exercise with the she tipped the scales at 210. Though sight”” And when she spread her short could s kip the hoople twenty times with- _ AR attractive mouth is something ew.-x4 you good, long, deep breaths and exer- hoople. Skipping the hoople is easy and once pretty, she found herself positively fat arms out and grasped the hoople she out stopping, and she found her stomach ['O™al, No matter how old or how hom: ety aeiiders and ribs. The ribs It Bas the advantage of belng pretty to unsightly, with alits for eyes and no neck. found herself out of breath before she 'and heart much stroneer or oech 1Y, can possess, and fo those who have T IRIBCIIE Fow TrE 4017 GiaL for an ili-shapen set of teeth. But it i3 ing the golf sticks, ihe walst very rapidly, according to one but she knew that even they could not an effort and to jump through the hoop fary to drink cold water between her easier to preach | thiy. wmatier than to Getting Slender, fat woman who is trying it. admire her proportions. an impossibilit$. b had always been her custom. practice itoso many & woman will tell . as hile her palpitation, an old malady, was ff when The history of this woman is Interest- ‘When she first puts on a gymnasium But she persevered, trying it faithfully a1 # p you—and the day seems far o : But nothing will seduce’ tho valet a8 4nk., Only five Lest'two fnchins In helght, Wit she . was,' as $ho herstie. seld) fn L Gvear dore At T ar {6 tattheully tweibe pounds. "Reg vonad, . £908 To Tooe (R JxUIt be attended td as promptly 84