The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 12, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY CALL. looks a little like oxidized o quite so dark; it is dull frost color. Let caught through a mass of %o match the binding of from the middle of the b u backwar 8- o the back in sweeping fas! = T of hat is very good with a f.worn suit, while the boa completes ormation. that the months of January ry should be so dull trom a e standpoint, for they are the of all the year when smartness reeded; and when its presence is In other months one in all its liveliness and one 3 by nature's dress. of living Eut in winter, particularly during days, there is nothing of this out, and the gown is elther ing ‘or intensely not so. hat is with us for the re e year and one sees it approaching for Easte) 1 the plateau can be mad« ew and lively § Take one of those flat hats without be ginning and without end—just flatnes: everywhere—and cover its top with shor feathers of a deep scarlet order. Biact feat are often used for this purpose 1 a very good that it mus D i mmended Let the feathers ap from the center and to lit ugh a bird were laid ou B Nith extended breast Jet there t the back are t is picturesque Just the thing akes fly. Mrs the fashions ward, wears one London. ut_several hat and these can s apt to be the r next the face, and of the Parisians, who the only complexion color, s 2 hat us this a curling orna- £ ould go well and could of the brim to the hat. that one can inter hat from,a sum- at the milliners deplore. be expecte tike a b wadays for one 1l the vear around. with a change lain aside only when there thing in the wardrobe ‘that matches. : h” in a hat is something that is ut the e forgotten. seasonable when feather now rests. The coming Easter hat will show such an array fa aking it ov, satiny co Trimming a Hat, A bat for this time of year | d with z° pl . nd hats icwinter of our fashionabie t is made glorious by the nuary. These come in dt ¢ holidays and relfeve v of the dull schemes of s time prevail. rhyme or reason— belief—yet it is true, e of a gown can be al- ange in hats; and those who ew women can accom- replacing the winter- something fresh. extravagantly long and very ther of muslin or feathers, k, and with a new hat top. the very reckless woman who B season reat majority of hats are A hat is of cos- easonable” hat has All hats are built t is doing duty this winter a rather exvensive hat of lakt sum- a plateau, with the top cov- folds of chiffon and elevated and there is u upon-a bandeau ris a long ostrich plume. bloomed flowers erywhere, there were pink roses where flowers as to unfit it for au- vet there will be way T, greatly assistea simple and pure, red and to be re. uctions that Jook t that straw, have disanpea: ” must t all arour variety, ang of all ¢ other tr eded, for t a tremendous e front and another ‘very large chow The reh recommended to all who have economy a2 ping and finishing the boa, a woman can iook as though freshly gowned. Try it, O woman of unbellef, and believe! Take your gown of tobacco brown, a little passe, and make for yourself a won- derful boa of black taffeta, bound upon the edges with scarlet panne. in the form of a double ruching and let its ends depend to the very ground. Now get for yourself a new hat. Let it be in black: your old walking hat wiil do if covered with black velvet. Perhaps you prefer to have it in brown, in which case use brown cloth, though black Is very good. You can cover it trimly, yet without too great regularity. At the front let there be a very long, very narrow buckle of silver with Roman Over ana aiting of chi. run lengthwise the brim anc This js goo. English ‘walkiny, _ubon all round hat: descriptions that_have ering i the mming that is - ac he. hat is of velvet ot v large chou it chou there can come long para- plumes or other effective feathers. = ing of a hat just now is to dress motif—and few there be who do mot. Millinery is greatly reduged a"“.n‘t‘iz. “argain counters contain much that i is b le. A mark down of 50 per cent i chiffon. qot too much to expect and this for the as 2 e des s do not want to e e n‘amxsumcr hate il Doid thelr s T an now be picked up for S0 much less than they ~were [ormetiy marked during the early part of the Wiy er seem mow almost like a Eift. Sy is It desirable to_buy in he case of handsome \'“qlafie‘.‘:x:]‘;(hd%‘)?a];cfl y p “ate buckles, wonderfu ond-s ) e P Chte. great circles for the nolding of velvet, these and many other "nfihat s o be seen now upon millinery ‘ ' ' Sosed at less than one would have e AL o A Lenters for the buckles and P to, pay dvet, not to mention feathers, tps, P nd winter flowe! through all ills is nothing hal several sea for the neck. There finishing the incn wide. :ases the entire ® o Are slaughtering song sht that they are slaugh o {fhe mete inspection of a breast ot ihe - close examination of a wing. TRest e Smade out of various simple mate: to produce the bird like result. The New Bow. in millinery plays an important up the gown. Floppy hats, boas, long, fat and fluffy. trailing skirts, and plenty 7 of jewelry hangings will be the properties £ of the spring outfit. The woman who ean go out with a hun- dred dollar bill and return with one cent ' ¢ important one woulu of it/is indeed strong-minded—if she is o Uinless one were to ¢ zulded to that most tohatime of i spots, ce {6 do without it. The crowns ot -he jewelry counter. Thiv fairly groans fire trimmed with fong bows pat on mder a metallic load of attractiveness. He ot the. top of poi 7% .,hm r‘l:x(rra;’(‘n W{Fefen from tront to wd 3 Jeweled Hangings. ek and in the middle of each bow there q ,The first item of “jewelry” is the beit, % Jittle buckle. Or the bows are plain, -his is of much width, often nearly as > upon their material for their . deep as from the belt to the arm pits, and g upon is made upon an clastic foundation ¥ 11 surface is studded with steel nail heads, or-silver if you prefer, or _gilt of you /i would be still more ornate. You can get these belts positively glistening, and the more so the better. 'The buckles are very long and very narrow, and many of them are made of steel beads or of jet, or of #0ld beads, so that they are pliable and give” to the walst a little. This pliabil- ity is something to be consider: one is muying nngwlde an affair. T The wide belts that have buckle: and back are out of their class. Em;ugourv‘\t aame, they do not follow empire lines, for the true Josephine has only the front buckle. But the two-huckled ohes are be- toming and, like the new boa and the new hat, they dress up the gown groat- Iy and in man y o : Sotive: y cases utterly change its The diversity in belts is growing more rand more pronounced. The {allot-made belt, though apparently simple, is one of the expensive trifies. Of stitched taffeta, o more than one inch wide and fastened with the smallest of gilt harness buckles, Fifth avenue in the handsome white auto it is sold for §2 by those who handle tall- mobile which has been bullt for her and or-made trifles. it js very stout and does presented to her by an adoring husband. ""“u!““" out of shape. Itis slightly wider wears a hat tilted at one side and P hbge iCk than in the tront. trimmed with the long bow. The ribbon Is v ere is a tailor-made method of fasten. no more than three inches wide, and there ng the belt to the skirt, and, strange to are sharp ends at each side pointing front :gY‘ l)l‘ 1s effective. This depends not upon and back. The loops are five in number. the Skirt nor the belt nor the waist. It two on one side, three on the other. I8 prather a method. The, shirt walst, Mrs. Mackay's Hat. er ft be of flannel, of taffeta, of lace or of novelty, is pinned to the corset Mrs. Clarence Mackay, another young securely with safety pins. A little strip matron—for it is a season of young ma- of muslin applied by hand protects the trons—wears a hat with a top of jet. It fabric. {i llft‘ed n} oneb side nx}:d un fir the lift Small Appointments. ere 1s a long bow with medallions upon The ski each of its ends, arranged so that the pinned to the shit waPPed,on and is beanty. satian bow is one of the most im- * p«-ly-r}:;rfili;lmlllinary. forming as it does the trimming for the front of many a hat. 1t is very good, indeed, upon the theater toaue, and more than good upon the hat with narrow front brim. Tt should be mathematically precise and should oc- cur just over the middle of the forehead. In this spot it gives a classic outline to the (,ohrnws.rand in case o:v;tx:axt;:e:: ' a v of feature a very - tian does not die from year to s proves that it is a good thllng and well sustained popular approval. |n'J‘lhcp bow under the side of the hat is something to be studied. The women who te bows professionally are trying to in- troduce the very long, very flat bow, to be laid fiat upon the bandeau. There is a certain sweep to this bow that carries vle, and it is noted upon many of the fashionable hats, Mrs. Alfred Vanderbllt, who is the youngest matron in society these days and whose appearance with the heir upon ), medallions fall upon the hair. safety pins, Mrs. George Gould, with Miss Edith caught secirely, nuk bor i bunEn and Kingdon Gould, the latter ed five least two safety pins®are required. * months, was seen out the other day upon Y The narrow tailor made belt is now put . gn and is located exactly over the safety pins, covering the ‘lnd of the skirt at the same time. The belt is pulled down n front and if the work has been well done it will positively n rouna of informal calls. Ier hat was quite a dream in taf- feta, with brims of satin straw. The tapqwa! one big chou of :-]afletail]ac'e and chiffon, all in butter color. A very long, slen- h:: quill, curved and jetted, was curled around the top of the stay In place. This is the method taught-by all the tailors > and is certainly effective in joining waist and skirt. Treated Her mother, Mrs. Kingdon, wore a hat which might serve as thus_the; ¥ . v positively will not sever their diplomatic rel 3 xa xflodelffor an elderly woman, In dull black it showed a regu- The jeweled baé is something thatE fian:sogl:mcel\"eera;‘:l:?"t arity ulmautllne, The{ sides were. turned up evenly and there belt. In jets or in steel it costs upward, considerably upward, nfizdngmgni‘f;}fi%;s;lg;evgr J:Kfils‘;:e“' 'Tn)e Eb!u‘i‘z’l"yl al‘.'d‘tll'le of one dollar, and in_sflver it runs from one dollar, for a tiny 3 y ces o -year-old placidity, one, up to $20 for a h: e Lx!lln!}?:;‘:lealgl;u“aplénw&oe vf(:ghgsménd'm:{:a hat was placed with Wi, dress regardless of dci:'tn%::ge SR 1}:&;‘?:1".02:91‘;;3% 1 s were trimmed, e belt and trim it wit gne with a pufling of biack jetted chiffon, the other with a jet” of gold chain lad u‘ggh t’l‘zr:lnlfu“l:e‘rl-er{‘te‘:pgfidt:elo:i‘:n:fie '-‘xpl;’g 5 ere were three big turquoises. The catch which The trimmed.feather is in and will stay In for the present. fastened the b e o 2 ag to th ’x!t“ 5’;‘».'}?3:’.25‘" fm:?f}l’ ways. Beard’i er&broldery. hand p;lntén‘ set in 1t. N RSP e BT P e ey of chiffon are carefully disposed along each edge The dangle, that fe of the feather. Others have little silken dots placed Upon new shapes . The locker. the wmtoh ctie Boitiog eaploeeTin Let it be yourself, made out o of a_double bo: The ruchings of taffeta are 0 very that one paust & them lovingly. ve - e is n’:rehnen',) ula\riely, with the tinfest ruching of Chiffon, as a boa material, holds its owr fabrics. through all opposition of fabrics,;, THCK s even when crumpled it has a becomingly soft look. The white chiffon boa is ér‘mr:n than good, and n;elblack o:: ggfiiml?avi - as o an all-around article O ition edge of llzeb‘?lg. !l)(!tv doubl hing with the tiniest border o elderdown, no more than an elghth of an / rs. - ribbons > i athers are round and round it, {6 make a very heavy The Lo oroauets. e menw men, (opetike artair, This s caught every lit- now ar a qucts, S must no « tle way by ribbons that are tied tightly ~ away from the idea "t]“l“‘n:‘h" and. those around roses that hang from long stem: use feathers Pate are often cured of the Six roses, all_upon stems of vario Who still_ hesitate sengths, are very pretty and it can cer- cainly be clainfed for them that they dress the flat part.of the feather and black vel- vet diamonds pasted here and there. These and many other ornamentations will be seen upon the feathers of iate winter. Quills are specially susceptible to treat- ment. The ostrich feather, on the other hand, is liked better in its plainness and i3 not even jetted as frequently as of yore. Shaded feathers will appear with the spring. They are seen in colors, shading !mmql ht to dark and from dark to light. Siss Helen Gould, who is really one of the best dressed women in New York, wears a hat trimmed with a very costly plume, one ‘side of wijch is white and the other side jet blick. To hold the white from the black there is a mingling of »lack and white, just at the central di- viding lines. . Embroidered Felts. Among the novelties seen just now are the hats of embroidered feit. These are very expensive to buy, but very easy ig make, ike so many things that are hand done, they class very high in the dress schemes and are sold at really extrava- gant prices. In these goods the woman who is handy with the needle possesses advantages untold. A bat of tan colored felt, while a simple thing with a big, floppy brim and a little top trimming, had embroidered around the brim a number of red roses and silver leaves. The effect was new and very good. The under part of the brim was faced with black chiffon. Velvet hats, especially those in black velvet, are more than effective, embroid- ered in natural flowers, and many there are that will follow their fashion. The black velvet that responds more quickly to embroidery than any other hat under the sun and comes out a really elegant affair, The black velvet Gainsborough, or the Rommey, or the very stiff black walking hat, with one side of the brim higher than the other, can be embroidered very well, A hat bhowlnf a green leaf embroidery was trimmed with green panne. Another hat, this an English walking hat in black velvet, had violets entirely covering its outer brim. The facing of a Gainsborough was in pink wild roses and the top was a mass of feathers. A hat that could truthfully be cailed a picture hat was in. Gainsborough shape, with the longest feathers draping its top. The feathers fell over the back of the hat and caressed the neck and shoulders. Fortunately the wearer was one of the tall girls of New York society and meas- ured a sufficient number of inches to look well with s a length of feather trailing down her back. Her Gainsborough was faced with brown velvet and upon this brown velvet fac ing there were embroidered sprays or stems of carnations. - 71ae tiny but in- tensely green leaves stood out with all the stiffness from the stalks, which were slightly curved to allow of their being dis- posed upon the inner brim. They crossed and intercrossed, each stem toppeu with a carnation, The Boa Season. Those who Have not already succumbed to the temptations of the modern boa must be prepared to do so now. Under certain conditions it is not becoming. The boa does not look well upon the short woman, The boa is not adapted to the double chin. The boa requires a certain length of neck. The boa, to be gracefully worn, must have the coiffure built high for it. In spite of these restrictions it is to be seen upon everybody, of every size and shape, in the feminine persuasion, The popular ostrich feather adornment .8 very well known and its possibilities, as well as its price, fully gauged. It can hardly be equaled in either. Then thefe is boa. of short, irregular feathers, uncusrled, and many of - them « stiff. These feathers exactiy resemble the feathers in & feather duster and one has 4n uncomfortable - feeling. that they: are some that have escaped’. that fate &nd been elevated to a position.of temporAFy. - Yet_the fashion leaders are eminence.- g leaders are * them and the gifl % eir feathers e # n‘:horougmy fashionable red boa_ s ’ , The! is i7 ‘Phen the muslin boa. Th o “‘:"elll‘ks muslin and 18 compglud x plaiting. instead of a ruch- & ides and is = the same on both s the back The loops upon these can —hE AR the neck, high, and caught pulled out and Zepres ) v s T o aimder thie with an effectiye turquolse ¥ od ¢ them and lifts o Obe bound with of finishing its _ place and holds There Great hoa effects can be looked for t':\ls / s;{rlng, One now seen upon a woman who ngs advance styles each year from Paris shows a very long string of silk muslin with a_ruching of chiffon wouad engagement book, the pencil ana pad, the animals-that a year and a half ago found charm, the seal and even the cigaretie no purchasers at §7. ’ holder all depend from the chain which hangs around the neck. It is to be a decorative season, as far ————— In dealing with the famine in Southern as jewelry is concerned and turquoise will Russla the authorities have adopted a :)ermti“lr‘l":a‘vor. lSmm: ang lniexpern;i\-e sets novel method of testing the needs of the rquoise pins set in a rim of gold are hungry. They tap the bodies of the hun- :poerr?! \igon":ee l:;:'llt- of tdhe wal?t let gry folk, and if any one is found well fed = and . grea Ue he is denied the assistance of the famine brooches adorn the belt, the stock and the middle of the chot. fu‘nds and sent to prison to expiate his crime. Central Kansas is complaining of a The horse famine. The fapmers have been too ready to sell their horses to English army purchasing a are compells numerous restrictions recently placed upon the manufacture of matches in Ireland have led to the closing of two nts, and now the farmers factories in Belfact. About 400 operatives to pay from $125 to $140 for have been thrown out of employ: