The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 28, 1901, Page 11

i 1 stocks this season ier and daintier than for coolness they have surpassed. Simplicity the keynote of fz ided prefer- the with a @ that is made on the voke and what is called blouse does net ouses hi together w « woman, and ecaly the I e shoulders and grace- t finds the unbro e lip of the ea ke ext he bodice that its shows very top. entre tucking running showing in cheme stripes of la e collar follows the s=ame re then t n Dyke points on -collar to , forming a collars more than the used f sheer another or t or this and is formed of ks, which are 2h like fine jed yoke t up they appear the’ outer edge of the yoke and ws extending te waist are g, made in of the cut in the Van Dyke neck closely. of the collar. dovetalled a cut off voke w of the cutting, straight acress the top and iny embroidery beading. Thy bution up the back with small thread but- button holes. or loops. nust fit pe the sligh at the basc threat spoils the entire effect. A somewhat simpler neck finish for a sheer org: of fine tuc the bang thy, for wrinkle of the show neck and No sharp con! are worn, the new silk blouses come with plain st of the terial. Sometimes the bow of the fastened with a smak buckle, or there gn. blouse ma- ek is a turn over added, but even this will more of than not be made of the waist ma- teral. Stiff piane stocks have for a long tim been used as a foundation for neckw: ch as ties and ribban des being extreme these stocks are the hottest things imag- sity they must b ally they are perfectly im pervious to air. Their day, however, over, for a most delightful substitute has been und in the mousseline eollar, which is well shaped, thin and stiffened just enough to keep its shape. This foun- dation collar is easily adjusted, net the least bit elumsv and is perfectly pliable. With the disappearance of these chokers no doubt will go the ugly brown marks that have disfigured many a pretty neck 1d scarfs, but uncomfartabl Of a nece; inzbie. ver St and natu very The tulle bond snchou ts prefty with Jécollete sillk scarfs > when worn over a kind, and many bits of neckwear are made s light > of the smart plouses and q have for trimming the fashionabl in ght or wav) r formed of a band fitted upon 5. Around sometimes tied a Thin are held we upen t which broad lace insertign: patterns sh of the same one of these foundatior the top of the collar is THE SUNDAY CALL, Collar of Linggrie tucking - band of blac! ribbon of a delicate and becoming shade, erushed inte an inch wide fold and knot- at the back of the velry is. worn with Very little je > simple trimmings—no pins at ali— in fact, a dainty Le Valliere or a string of small pearls are the only fashionable nets, valvet ar a wide Louisine For the new lace and waglagilk scarfs, which require some kind of = toundation, the mousseline collar answers the pur- pose excellently. The xrtm and unwrin- kled appearance scarfs assume is most de- sirable on melting days, when the ther- mometer marks high collars an uncom- fortable necessity. Lawn ties and dimity stocks are prettier Another Lingerie Fthish and daintier than ‘it seemed possible to make them. Most of the stocks are form- ed of a band of fine tucking, while the ties may be of figured dimity or batiste daint- ily embroidered in colors. These ties and scarfs are deliciously cool pieces of neck- wear and they possess a freshness that is charming. T O For perfection of caofness, howaver, the collarless bodice is without an equal among the modish woman's afternoon blouses. The style isn't one that should Ye ‘adopted indiscriminately, however. The bodice cut off abruptly at the base of the throat makes a break in line that is vastly unbecoming to the woman who doesn’t boast perfectly shaped shoulders and slen« der throat. Sometimes the top of the collarless blouse is cut in points or it is left round, 4 which case the finish is a band of lace msertion, showing just above the edge of the bodice. Pearls are appropriate fos wear with this bodice and the crushed col« lar of tulle fastened at the back in a chou is also a pretty accompaniment. These tulle chqux are worn with both low and high necked bodices, but they are a fancy that will probably not outlive the no-collar fad. Among separate stocks the newest 1s the artists’ model, a pretty design fashioned of white silk showing Roman strives. and when the broad bias ends cross in front there is fastened a tipy gold buckle. Faor wear on days that are not too warm ruffles are the vogue, and just now they are broader and fluffier than ever before. ‘White and black or the combination of the two are most popular, and silk net is the material from which the smartest are wade. The rufile is quite broad and is long enough to extend to the bust line, where the ends are tied with knots and long streamers of velvet ribbon. The streamers themselves are caught about at the waist line and fastened with a rosette of ribbon. ‘At the center of the back is another chou of the velvet. A ruffle of all white silk net and black velvet ribbon is very fashionable. Another smart ruffle is of white net showing a faint dot outlined in black. Black velvet ribbons are used with this, and the effect, though odd, ig particularly gaod. . sris of summer white he golf girl, comes all—the sun bonnet sailies forth, ready to enjoy whatever fun there is in store for her.¢ She may tie the strings of her old-fash- joned headgear under her chin or leave them fluttering to the breeze, just which- ever happens to be the faney of the mo- ment, for the sun bonnet girl is one who induiges every whim and is in for a most enjoyable time, She doesn’t wear her smart little bounet to keep off tan and freckles, for these trifles do not bother her mind. Half the time the bonnet is hanging down her ba by the strings, or ging over her arm, and again may be carried by sbme mem- ber of the sterner sex. who' flutters apeut GrE the belle of the season as the proverbial moth. . Bonnets are much easier to carry than hats, and one doesn’t run the risk of spoil- ing the freshness, as most of them will stand being laundered time and again. A little ducking or tossing about on a tennis court doesn’t hurt them in the least, and besides this advantage sun bon- nets are extremely becoming to most faces, For the same reason that they are popu- lar with the maidens they are unpopular with the maidens’ escorts. It is tantaliz- ingly hard to catch a glimpse of bewitch- ing eyes, be they brown or blue, when hid- den behind the ruffles that make so per- sistent a screen. The golf sun bonnet, with its bright red gorgeousness, makes a charming bit of color on the smooth green links, and these bonnets are usually rather small, so as not to interfere with one’s range of vision. There is a small scoop coming low over the face, but the sides are curved back to the lower part of the crown, the whole outside edge being finished with a single medium sized rufiie bordered with lace, The simplest bonnets, however, are the prettiest and the most serviceable, for when driving off one doesn't want ty be bothered with too many frills and ribbons. Tor saiffng there is no head covering quite so adaptable as the quaint little sun bonnet. It is less heavy on the head than a sailor hat,, and its shade protects ihe eves from the glare of the sun and shecen of the water, Gingham bornets are trimmed with ruf- fles of fine white emhbroidery, and are per- hapg the most useful kind of all, yet they lack the airiness of the organdy or mull, a quality which undoubtedly adds to th fascination for both wearers and b holders. Some of the small dimity and organdy bonnets are little round affairs, with a PICTURESQUE EFFECT - stiffened scoop in front cut back so that the ears are uncovered. The stiff part of the bonnet is trimmed with rows of tiny ruffles of the organdy; the shirred crown stands up in a puff, and across the bot- tom depends a small capelike ruffe. When made of pale blue organdy this bonnet is charming in its effect. Sometimes the front art of the bonnet curves down on the hirred des and is sl old-fashioned puffs, face is a full, lace- on wires to - form while around the edged, double ruffle. In pale pink mull with tiny Valenciennes edging this bonnet is decidedly attractive, and almost any fact that can boast even a small claim to beauty looks stunnin; when framed by these soft, billowy ruf- g:ls especially if they are in & becoming or.