The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 28, 1901, Page 10

10 WHITE g girl made y having much at- to her clothes. It girl whose ortably and well rare- is hes fit her com eve ws a thought upon her ap- she been bored to mberless fittings. sense of to-day shows it- has The common self most noticeably in the fashions for people. mplicity, comfort and characterize the are worse than d more to be pitied nocent victims of inju- e ages of 15 and 17 are ir to fond mammas, as long and thin to o short and broad to wear th cks second ster's modified to The materials used are s, of course, “for an amped plainly on them. To these summer months the suits, as they are called, are The short Eton with plain ce tucks or insertion for yming seems to be the popular mode. k, mercerized and handspun crash make most girlish and fetching frocks and launder beautifully. A smart little gown Is of pale blue linen trimmed with narrow white braid, stitch- ed on flat. The skirt has a shaped flounce which is finished with five rows of brafd. The W is softly bloused in front, the round yoke, collar and belt are trimmed with braid. A tan lnen has a short Eton jacket, with rolling collar and lapels. Ecru insertion trims the jacket and joins the flounce to the skirt. A rough straw hat trimmed with a huge black velvet bow completes this stylish suit. For the little maild who yachts there is a sailor suit of white duck. The blouse has an openwork embroidery collar \cut away from the neck in a V shape. A black taffeta knot tles under the collar and falis to the belt. In this pretty necks show- to advantage and in so doing be- come generously sunburned. The skirt has the same shaped ruffie as the tan linen 2nd is finished with an inch band of embroidery. Heavy linen in pale green makes a de- liciously eool-looking frock. The short Eton jacket and the skirt are trimmed wi’h ecru insertion. When worn with a , fluffy waist, nothing could be dain- Crisp, fresh-looking organdies mako charming summer gowns for young girls and have the additional advantage of laundering extremely well. Thes come in all the light colors, but pale blues, greens end white over some color are the best investment. SAILOR SUIT OF DUVCK — > + | Poses by Stella Rosetta of the | Alcazar. Dresses from Davis, Schonwasser & Co.~ | Photos by Alisky. e FPALE BLUE LINEN FOR_MORNING s U v SHEER ORSANDIE, ) _OVER PINK THE SUNDAY CALL, ORSANDIE WITH WHITE LACE ribbon, which has a faint tracery of black is fastened on the left side. The sleeves are long and made of tucks and inser- tion. The skirt has three four-inch ruf- fles, edged with lace, the top one finished with a double row of the lace gathered and put on very full. The belt is of the ribbon and ties in a huge bow, the ends falling to the foot of the, skirt. A gown which is very becoming to the possessor of light, fluffy hair is a pale-green or- gandy over green. The walst has yoke and collar, unlined, of Insertion, and is finished with a full ruffle of the organdy edged with cream lace. The sleeves are long and are trimmed with bands of in- sertion. The skirt has three narrow ruf- fles for trimming. The ‘belt and knot on yoke are of heavy satin ribbon to match. Pretty petticoats having very full flounces and loads of lace are worn With these gowns. Dainty dresses for evening are made of India and Liberty silk prettily trimmed with lace or hand embrofdery. The skirts must be very full and are best trimmed with accordion pleated ruffles. Some mothers think that lots of gowns are necessary and needlessly spend time A dear little gown Is of white organdy ~yoke made of insertion edged with a dou- and toney. The smartest looking girls over pale pink. The waist has a square ble ruffle of lace, a knot of white satin to-day are the ones who have few clothes, but these few well made and fitting per- fectly. Outfits for tiny tots are exceed= ingly simple, but exquisitely dainty. The quaint Mpther Hubbards which never losa their pepularity, small wonder as there i no other style more becoming, and dress} frocks made of soft silks comprise the limited: wardrobe. Colored linens, per» cales, white and checked dimities and light flannels are made Into Mother Hubbards¢ The vyoke and cuffs are smocked and the skirts are finished with a broad hem and three or four tucks, which can be taken out In case of shrink- age. Little dresses made of soft silks must have very full skirts. Tiny girls can wear ruffles as well as older ones, g0 the ruffles either gathered or accordion- Pleated are put on the foot of the skirt or the skirts may be tucked within six inches of the knee, making a full flaring ruffie and thé long-waisted effect now worn. A broad hem and fluffy petticoat holds the ruffle out apd makes the lit.le lady look very smart. The long-walstéd frocks are very stylish and look well on children. They must fit well and have a full ruffle. Gingham frocks are box-pleated, fit smoothly and have a full ruffle attached by a band of nsertion. The sleeves reach to the elbow TING SOWN OF TAN LINEN ErRU and a shaped collar edged with embrold- ery finishes the low-cut yoke. To be worn with this is a white guimp pretily trimmed with hand embroidery. To very thin childreh the long-waisted fashion is most unbecoming and to be avolded. The only dark colors allowed for chil- dren are dark blues and bright reds. In the soft challies they are especially pretty and make charming little frocks when made up with narrow black velvet baby ribbon or‘trimmed with broad sashes hav- ing fringed ends. o A question which is raised time and time again is whether frocks of thin ma- terfals are warm enough for winter wear. GREEN LINEN WITH In spite of the fact that cur dltmaty'iy /milder than any other there are days when heavy clothing is necessary for warmth. Many mothers object to dark clothes, preferring the white frocks for their little ones. They guard against the possible onslaught of croup and colds by adding under the frock a long-sleeved, high-necked slip of flannel matching in color the dress. For most houses, how- ever, the temperature is quite high enough to allow even the most delicate child to wear thin materials and the slip is worn only for the dally walk. To dress a growing child well, individu- ality of its appearance must be consulted as well as its individuality of character. FIFTEEN HUNDRED JAPANESE SOLDIERS ARE REQUIRED TO PR few vears ago as one of the prizes HE large island of Formosa, off the east coast of China, fell to Japan a The island is famous for uets. The hill slopes of the west grow some of the finest teas in the world, the Oolongs and other Formosan teas being highly esteemed in this country, where nearly the entire crop is consumed. The tree-clad mountains of the east con- tain the largest camphor forests in the world. Most of the camphor kept in our drug stores comes from Formosa. Japan now produces only about 300,000 pounds & year: the vield in China has never ex- ceeded 220,000 pounds a-year: but 7,000.000 pounds ,of camphor were taken from the forests of Formosa in 18% and in the past four years the annual wield has averaged over 6000000 pounds. Formosa controls the cemphor market of the world and will probably always be the great source of this valuable gum. For some time past the purchasers of camphor have been compelled to pay more for it than former- ly. The two principal reasons for the in- crease in price will be mentioned here; one of them is specially interesting, for it llustrates the difficulties and dangers that environ the camphor industry. The mountains of dast Formosa are in- habited by savage tribes who are the bane of the island. Nearly half of Formosa is still occupied by these murderous’men of the forest whose weapons are turned against all strangers. The fertile plains of the west, filled with peaceful Chinese tillers of the soil, present a very different aspect. For many years it was almost certain death for sailors to be wrecked on the east coast of the island. " If they escaped the sea they were murdered by the savages, who were always on the lookout for loot from vessels driven upon the rocks of their inhospitable coast. Ex- plorers have not dared to venture into some parts of these mountains which are still améng the least known portions of the world. The savages are full of cun- ning and treachery. They are armed with bows and arrows, knives and swords. They are very dark and muscular and go abcut cuite naked, except for a scanty strip of blue cloth about the walst. In recent years many of them have acquired matchlocks and learned to use them. One day, a few years ago, a party of English officers from a man-of-war went, up into the mountains and met a party of natives armed with matchlocks. They challenged the natives to a trial of skill in shooting. A target was affixed to a tree about 300 feet distant and the Eng- lishmen made what they considered pretty fair practice. The natives looked on without any apparent astonishment at the skill of their rivals. When it came their turn to fire every man of them dis- appeared in the jungle. They crawled on their stomachs to within about nine feet of the target and they blazed away. Of course they all hit the target in the cen- ter. When the Englishmen protested that this method of conducting a shooting match was hardly fair, the natives re- plied: “IWe do not understand what you mean by fair, but anyhow that is the way we shoot Chinamen.” The men who collect most of the cam- phor of the world have to work among these treacherous devils. They are sent up into the mountains, pitch their camps in the camphor forests and depend upon their guns and their vigilance to protect themselves from savage enemies. But though their wits are sharpened by the ever present danger whole parties of them are sometimes slaughtered. The history of the camphor industry in Folmosa has many of these tragieal incidents. Though armed guards stand over the men while they are felling the trees and extracting the gum they may be attacked at any mo- ment unless the savages consider the force before them to be too strong for them to overcome. Great is the joy whem they clean out a camphor camp. All the camp equipment and the food supplies are the legitimate spofls of war; so there is profit as well as glory in the murderous business. The work of getting the cam- phor down into the plains is even/more dangerous than collecting it. The paths are narrow and the carriers, walking in long singie file, can present no strong front to the patives concealed along the way. A strong escort front and rear, beating ‘the bushes and scrub for the, foe who may be lurking there, is always nec- essary to insure safety. When the Japanese became fairly set- tled in the island last year they deter- mined to put an end, if possible, to the dangers that beset the camphor industry. As a preliminary step they detailed 1500 soldlers to guayd the camphor camps and convoy the parties that carry the gum out of the forests. In these camps, scattered north and south among the mountains for a distance of 140 miles, the men are work- ing to-day guarded by a part of the Japa- nese army. Thus war and industry are curlously combined in the island of For- mosa. As a rule, when armed men are around looking for somebody to shoot there can be no such thing as industry in their neighborhood. Peaceful labor and the exploits of war are not congenial com- panions. But among the forests of For- mosa the soldier is becoming the valuable adjunct of industry, and it could not thrive very well without him. The Japa- nese Government proposes to use any force that may be required to place the camphor business on a safe basis: but the cost of protecting the camphor gatherers 1s added to the cost of the commodity and there seems to be no reason to complain that this is not fair to all concerned. This is the principal reason why the price of camphor has advanced. There is another reason for it also, and it may be said that the price is likely to con- tinue at a ' good figure. Japan, like France and Spain, is desirous to obtain a monopoly in one or more commodities that will bring a large revenue into the Government Treasury. How could a mo- nopoly be more easily established than in the article of camphor, the whole sup- ply 'of which s practically confined to «ne Japanese island? So the authorities geclared awhile ago that thenceforth the camphor industry should be a Government monopoly. Any one may collect camphor to-day who can secure a permit to do so, and permits are not difficult to obtaln. But not a pound of the product can be sold to any one but the Government, which fixes the price to be pald. The price is OTEQCT THE CAMPHOR INDUSTRY COF FORMOSA. said fully to compensate the collectors, but a limitation upon the amount of the product will prevent too many collectors from crowding into the fleld. The Governe ment names the maximum amount to be produced and will not buy a pound In ex- cess of the limit. It was said awhile ago that the amount to be produced this year would mnot exceed 40,000 piculs (5,320,000 pounds). As Japan does not Intend that the market shall be oversupplied, there seems to be no prospect of any large fluc- tuation in future prices. The world gwill profit at least by the efforts of Japan to preserve an industry which, a few years ago, seemed threat- ened with ultimate extinction. It is nee- essary to kill the tree in order to get the gum. Contrary to all previous practice, a tree is now planted for every one that is killed. Japan requires this to be dons, and, moreover, s establishing plantations of campnor trees so that Formosa, it is expected, will in a few years yield both wild and eultivated camphor.—New York Sun.