The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 10, 1901, Page 10

THE SUNDAY CALL. AN UK WHEN SERVING 3 SALVES LIVER IN 1 J/ WASHINSTON CTHATINS DISH S 1 SURPRIDE 4 HIS is & season of despalr for the housekeepers. The holiday appe- tites, braced by crisp Christmas weather, are flagging and the sum- mer season’s tempting delicacies are not yet in market. The artist who directs & kitchen must rack her orains or those of a sympathizing friend for table novel- tles, Here is one: Oxtail Soup. Beparate two oxtalls at the joints, wash and put in kettle with two tablespoontuls butter and two sliced onfons: fry until brown. Then add four quarts of water and simmer slowly for four hours; then 244 one sliced carrot, one turnip, one bay leaf, one tablespoonful summer savory, one tablespoonful celery seed, four cloves, half tablespoonful salt, half tablespoon pepper. Cook one hour longer, stratn, skim off grease, reheat, turn into tureen rwith some of the best joints, three slices pf lemon and a small bunch of parsley. ! Smelts. A savory combination for Lenten days is made of smelts and oysters. \ BIRTHDANY Cut the heads off and clean the bodies, fill with oysters seasoned with salt and pepper; dip in beaten egg, roll in fine bread crumbs and fry golden brown In deep, smoking hot fat; serve with parsley and lemon. Head Cheese. Head cheese is as cld as our grand- mothers, and after a long period of ob- scurity it comes again to the fore to re- mind us that we can’t improve much upon the larder of the earlier generations' fa- mous housewives, despite all the flourishes that the modern chef affects. The savory herbs that those old dames knew the se- cret of so well will tempt a modern appe- tite quite as well as in their day, no mat- ter how blase we think we are. Bofl the cleaned head, feet and tongue of young pork, also four pounds fresh beef; when the bones slip from the nreat drain from water and chop. Beason with salt, sage and summer savory. Pack into a loaf tin, press down with a heavy weilght. When wanted, unmold, garnish with hard-bofled eggs and parsley. Calves’ Head in a Chafing Dish. Chafing dish recipes are always in ds- mand—possible ones. Tne usual chafing dish recipe book lures you into all kinds of culinary scrapes -by decoying you to try impossible complexities. The saute of calves’ liver, however, is very simple and worth while trying for an imprompta lunch. Saute a calves' liver in two tablespoon- fuls of butter placed in the blasier for five minutes, then turn on one cupful water, a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper and simmer for ten minutes or until water is absorbed in meat. Dish on a hot plate, garnished with bolled chest- nuts. Green Salad. After all the abnormal ralads—mixturer of fish, flesh and fowl—that the seeker for . novelty has conglomerated it is some- thing of a relief, is it not, to get back to a good, plain, old-fashioned salad like this? Rub a salad bowl with a sliced onion, then add alternate layers of Boston let- tuce and escarole. Mix two tablespoonfuls olive oil With two of vinegar, half tea- spoonful salt, dash of paprika and sprin- kle over the salad just before serving. Place radishes cut to represent lilies upon the leaves. D R b ik Al i i i Lt L APPETIZING ENT not only offers a longed for L rest to soclety’s votaries, but also glives an opportunity for a welcome change in the eternal meat diet of the u\'ellee American table. For it Is a fact that fish is eaten more generally by every one in the Lenten season, not on'y by those abstaining from meat on ac- count of church regulations but also by others without religious leanings. The markets are plentifully supplied vith sea food during the penitential rea- son. The wares are so temptingly dis- played that the marketer is led to add this much neglected food to the dinner menu. It Is a fact that fish is not popular with Americans as a dlet. While it al- ways has its place in a course dinnef, it 1s usually disguised in thick sauces and is only incidental to the repast. Eng- land's love for roast beef i3 more than balanced by America's fondness for steak, which, by nine out of ten persons, would always be chosen in preference to the daintiest of fish dishes. New England has always been more partial to fish dinners than any other part of the country. Rhode Island orig- inated the clambake and the Down East States are all famous”for their fish din- ners and chowders. Boston also empha- sizes fish on its hotel bills of fare more than New York, and Philadelphia’s ter- rapin cooking is of the best. In New York fresh, well cooked fish is difficult to get in even the best of hotels, and the chophouses making a specialty of the service of sea food are sought by fish lovers in preference to the larger and more fashionable restaurants. In Lent, however, there is a plenitude of this food in the hotels and its preparation Is at- tended to with special care. There are a number of admirable bisques made from fish which are special- Iy suitable for the Lenten table, the lob- ster bisque belng perhaps the most popu- lar. There is no finer soup than a well made lobster bisque and while it requires care and precision in the making, it re- pays the palate with Its excellence of taste. There are many very elaborate and to the amateur cook somewhat con- [ oy RISK IN RAW VEGETABAES. ROFESSOR GUALDI, chief of the Bureau of Hygiene of Rome, who has given much attention to the study of typhold fever as it occurs in large cities, has observed a close con- nection between its prevalence and the consumption of raw vegetables, the sea- sonal curve of typhold fever correspond- ing clgsely to that indicating the quan- tity of such vegetables sold throughout the different months of the year. art from the occurrence of local infections due to accidental pollution of water-sup- ply or milk-supply, the contamination of either of the latter cannot satisfactorily explain the distribution of cases in the city, of Rome, whereas it is readily ac- counted for on the hypothesis that these cases arise in connection with the con- sumption of raw vegetables which is so extensive among the lower classes there. At Padua a careful microscopical and bacteriological examination of vegetables commonly eaten in the raw state, includ- ing lettuce and celery, has yielded re- sults which clearly demonstrate the im- portance of these as a possible source of parasitic and infectious diseases gener- ally. By the bacteriological examination microbes were found in such myriads that Washington’s Surprise. You know that the up-to-date icecream is baked. There are ways and ways of doing this. Here is one called Washing- ton’s surprise. As in all of these formu- las, a thick meringue 18 at the bottom of the trick. It forms a crust that bakes firm and brown, leaving the icecream as cool as a cucumber inside. Place a mold of icecream on an inch layer of sponge cake, heap with a thick meringue and garnish with candied cher- ries and fancy bits cut from citron to simulate leaves and stems. Set in hot oven a few seconds to brown. Prunes in Wine Jelly. We have been accustomed to look upon prunes as a plous form of dissipation, very good for the health and very cheap. We are apt to associate them with Sa manthy's best bib and tucker and the minister coming to tea. Here is & new point of view, however; they are beirg used with wine jelly as a swell dessert and you would never know them for the same old prunes. Soak one box of gelatin in half pint cold water for five minutes; add one quart boiling water, one and a half cupfuls su- i forter ol et FISH DISHE fusing methods for preparing this dish, but a simpler recipe is as follows: Plunge a large lobster, or two of med- fum size, into a pot of salted boiling wa- ter and cook until the shell is quite red. Then take it from the water and cool. Remove the flesh from the shell, rejecting ‘he soft fins which lle close to the body under the legs, the stomach, which is in- closed in a hard membrane back of the eyes, and the intestine. Save the coral and green fat. Cut the flesn of the lobster into small pleces. Put on the fire a saucepan con- taining two heaping tablespoons each of butter and flour and stir them together until they bubble. Then gradually add three quarts of boiling water, stirring it until the soup is very smooth. Then add the lobster prepared as directed. Season the soup highly with salt and red pepper. Boil for two or three minutes and serve hot. Lobster a la Newburg Is a good substi- tute for the usual fish course and is made from the meat of two lobsters cut in small pleces. Put two ounces of butter in a van over the fire and as soon as it meits put in six finely chopped button mushrooms, which must cook three minutes without browning. Then add the lobster meat and half a pint of sherry wine. Let this cook for three or four minutes. Then mix one and a half cups of cream with the yolks of four eges and mix well with the lob- ster, allowing it to remain over the fire a few minutes without boiling. The mush- rooms may be omitted If desired. Mussels are a much neglected sea food, although capable of preparation In many ways that make them a most delicious dish. At a recent luncheon the hostess surprised her guests by serving a dish of mussels in silver shells cooked after a recipe that gave them’much the flavor-of snails prepared in the French style. The smaller mussels should be chosen and the shells well scraped and washed to rid them of all grit. Then the mussels are put in a stewpan with one sliced onlon, a bunch of parsley and one pint of white wine. Season with salt and pepper and stand the pan over the fire until the shells a complete list of thelr species could not be made. The danger of eatlni salads made of vegetables containing this vast amount of parasitic and microbic life must be considerable. A thorough disin- fection is, however, easily effected soaking the vegetables for half an hour in a three per cent solution of tartaric acid (about an ounce of acid to & quart of water).—Leslie’s Weekly. x4 WHAT BRRY SHOULD WEIGH HE baby of normal weight tips down at birth the tiny scales at the seven-pound mark. If he or she Is much heavier or much lighter, he or she is at war with the average. A peculia* feature of baby weight i» that, during the first_days of {ts life, the youngster—that is, ths perfectly no youngster—loses one pound. Thus, examinations made on the second and fourth days will show a weight of six pounds only. But after the first week, at the end of which time the lest pound should be :egained, there is a steady advance In the infant avoirdupois. Ten pounds should have been reached by the time the baby is eight weeks old, and when it is twenty weeks old the welght should be fourteen pounds. g < OX-TAlL. SO0VF gar, stir until dissolved, them add Ralt pint wine, juice of two lemons and strain, Place half inch of mixture in & mold and chill, then place a layer of cooked French prunes and add another layer of the mix. ture; chill and repeat until mold is filled. When ready to serve dip mold an instant in warm water and invert on dish. French Oranges. Now that we must content ourselves with the winter fruit for the most part it is a good thing to remember that oranges can be served variously by a little inge- nuity. Removenside from six oranges, cut shells into points. Cut the pulp ‘nto small pleces and season with sugar; chill, fill the shells and place a meringue on each. Place a bit of red jelly on each meringue. Birthday Cake. If there happen to be any birthdays In your family at present, hers is & cake for you that holds candles better than a more flimsy and delicate loaf. It is, however, a good rich cake for any season, with or without candles. Cream three cupfuls dark brown sugar, two scant cupfuls butter, yolks of eight eggs well beaten: then add one cupful dark molasses, half cup brandy, julce of one lemon, one tablesvoonful ecinnamon, one teaspoonful each of cloves and mace, half grated nutmeg, two cupfuls four. Beat well, then add stifly beaten whites of the eggs, two pounds seeded raisins, two pounds currants, three-fourths pound citron mixed with two more cuos of sifted flour, Dissolve one teaspoonful soda In ohe tablespoonful water, mix thoroughly; line a cake pan with three thicknesses of buttered paper, fill two-thirds full; bake two hours in slow oven. When cold cover with white and then trim with gar- lands, which can be bought at the confec- tionery; place colored candles in pi paste roses and arranges about the cake. When Serving Fruit Don’t forget t Wash the fr . wipe and th a flannel. Grapes should be only washed. Arrange on a pretty dish and serve cold. FOR LENT open. Then take out the mussels, clean thoroughly and cut them in halves. Strain the cooking liquor of the mus- sels into another pan; mix with it an equal quantity of veloute sauce, and boil until reduced to about half the original quantity. Thicken the sauce with a lump of butter and put the mussels in the sauce with one spoonful of chopped pars- ley. Fill silver or paper shells with this mixture, cover with grated bread crumbs, put a small bit of butter on top of each and brown in the oven. Serve on folded napkins. Crab meat, which can be bought fresh In the market ready for use, is another dainty Lenten dish. Patties made from it and served with cream sauce are dell- cious. The shells may be purchased al- ready made at the baker’s if the making of good puff paste is not an accomplish- ment of the cook’s. Put in the saucepan half an ounce of butter, half an onion minced fine and & small carrot shredded. Toss about for two or three minutes to fry, but met to color; then add two tablespoons of flour. Mix it well with the other ingredients and add three pints of hot water, & pint of boiling cream, half a teaspoon of salt and a salt spoon of white pepper. Sim- mer one hour and strain into a suacepan. Add to each pint of it half a gill of warm cream. Place it back on the range again and simmer. Then mix in a quart of crab meat and cook for a few minutes Fill the shells and serve. The Guilford clams now in market are not so well known as they should be to the average housekeeper. Their flavor is good and they may be cooked in & num- ber of ways. They are specially palat- able cooked in a chafing dish. Select a dozen of the larger clam wash them thoreughly and plunge in boiling water for a moment. Drain and open them and use the plump part only. Put in a chaf- ing dish a pat of butter and when quite hot add a dasn of flour and cayenne to suit the taste. Add the clams and when they are slightly cooked add a gill of sherry. Cover the dish and allow it to simmer five minutes. Have ready thres slices of toast, put four clams on each slice, add a little of the sherry and serve. e et Bt il 0 BOIL RGGS IN QOLD WRTER- HIS egg tastes as If it had been botled in hot water,” sald the eman- cipated young woman with the short hair. “I can always tell In & minute if an egg has been cooked in that . Her companion had not learned quits as many things and was quite satisfled Wwith her egg. She only murmured softly: “I mever heard of an egs botled in cqid ‘water, did you?" “It is high time you were introduced to this Institution,” her wise friend contin- ued, “and I am delighted to {lluminate you even at tha risk of arousing more of your sarcasm. An egs. to be boiled prop- erly for human consumption should be put into cold water and then placed over the fire. Then it cooks with the water. The egg cooks moreover thoroughly and from the inside. “Ask & Fh_vstcmn or a trained nurse how to boll an egg so that its greatest nutriment and flavor shall be preserved. Bither of them will tell you to put it in cold water. The old way of dropping the ?g into bolling water has long ven up. It used to cook the egg sud- jenly and destroy its flavor. “So don't be sarcastic because you havea't heard of the century's advance.”