The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 29, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JA ARY 29, 1899. 27 P Forecast of the Summer Fashions. icate work, which requires both skt | and dexterity, and when weil done pays | admirably for the pains taken. Glove powder should form one of the adjuncts to every toilet table and a pretty glove stretcher another. HAVE #at at the fect of seveniwise ltso T TIAVE sat at the fect of seven wise | spring bodices up the back, Lovely wo- wome have given me sufficlent | Man will have to undergo ail the tortur 2 3ut 1 | 2nd gymnastic contortions of her early | childhood when her poor little arms had to climb up half way, then down the other half in the agony getting her waist properly buttoned behind. The daintiest and prettiest of buttons e being manufactured to tempt ladies to rew fashign. Coral set In silver or gold will be used a great deal Then there are clear erystal buttons, tin ones of cut steel and odd little dark col- cred or bone or pearl buttons such a small | ey button, who % Ay Fhe n be the q A was sufficiently q ing to f: ion of with buttons that are not equally, » Dame Fashlon insists that epring bodices must be worn hindside foremost he might order kirt buttoned on the mal position. But will be that the fasten as uniquely side, back to i instéad of this the e new spring skirt mu the bodice. he new skirt will be cut to fit skin htover the hips and down to the knees, down fn 1 on both side seams. »f golf or bicycle s Fashion's Frills. g and neck d are parts with the Parisian s winter she is wearing her day and eve and ornamer ng., in b2autifu, ices she is wearin 4 1 caught with jewele 1 broad “dog col composed s of pearl beads. becoming Both and {f there i »f bones it is much prettier golng with the neck perfectly bare. fi that the Princess of Wales ; adhered to and bright shades of blue are fa- ssar blue row aw t y are made of t ac e t the £x at was used for old-fashioned ml this The arm shows thr 0 are cut so long the No gloves are worn. Jacket effects are very stylish jacket must be long and the velvet jacket Short—more in bolero style. White velveteen i gowns. It is less and fully as effective. The air tuck is the newest variety of tucking. It is small in size and stands out ve than velvet from the bottom edge of the tuck forming its front, and gives the effect of filled with alr. X Silk crepe, a new kind of grenadine and | poplin are black for new tunic must be so long that it not belng the most popular materials spring wear. T Th show the bottom of the skirt, over the nt of the hemisette of pleated ed up ra have | ypkeep POPLINS WILL BE WORN. &5® DVANCE information concerning \\ the fabrics that will be worn =\ next season puts poplins well up on 4 A\&u.« st. Samples of this stuff . the material in various new effects. | fintsh is silky, and in delicate stripe: ecks, plaids and dotted with silk the lustrous surface. with a reddish tint of plum color, and a model formed of the goods trimmed with circular flounce: odd tunic above, describes tk Post. A bertha the squares, edged with gulpure Insertion, is placed above a lace blouse draped over satin the color of the silk dot. Jar and belt are of rich plum-colored vel- vet. All the poplins in black and white effects are very attractive, and on these weaves of black velvet ribbon and black velvet buttons are used. Gray flecked with white or velvet and cream color with cerise are other pretty color offects. — - i THE GARE in new e “Doll organdies and Vard pat- me, | who i3 i o Kb @LOVES. | == CONOMY in small things is often EQ overlooked, and if only more con- sideration were given to this sub- i ject quite a considerable sum of money might be saved annually. The careless manner in which a very large | number of ladies treat their gloves s an | instance in point, and perhaps the fol- lowing hints may serve to show how the reasonable care of kid gloves would | result in a reduction of expenditure: In the first place, it may be pointed g to any nd made very sta but Of Some sort. Ihe (2ot out that rough handling is specially ¢ a8 only at men's furnishing | disastrous to kid gloves, and it very bres Madras and pique, the latter em- | often happens thit a new pair are split broid>red, are by far gafi smartest prod- | and ruined by jerking them on in a /‘\u 'r‘ the loom f;v)r shrir:]t”}\r']nl:: m’;lak\lnz. | careless fashion. Always put on a new nother poing—the o 1ave alpajr f kid gloves for the first time long 50 sy o wall that will arise , < allow of due deliberation in the task. When a pair of fine gloves are bought the purchaser shouiu insist that they G .y | be fitted on in the shop; then if there ;One model is made eatirely of age, vith | are any flaws they will be detected be- beautiful one, and especially appro-; fore the gloves : : paid for and taken priate for Easter, is a toguc made en- aWay. tirely of green leaves And_springing | Cheap gloves are generally risky iIn- from this nound of natural looking leaves | vestments, but some of the best shops i & single stately white water llly. Worn | xeep a fairly good line of gloves at low on a fair head what T;?{}‘i;{;‘;{;“e‘}, of ap- | prices, which are worth buying for com- brgaching Spring cou i ¢ mon wear. If strong and well made I'm almost afrald to say it, but as it | really { my fault 1 shall be brave. |they will serve for shopping and morn- cers intend to button ail the'ling walks, or for bad weather. tcques must be laid aside for unmanage- able 1t is built on the same lines s the winter toque and is just as wind- | the | fall to the fingers. | The lace | being used for tea- | | | v a keynot> to from there he w They boug} T > style. It may be fastened | rgandies when the dealers | B three ways—either buttoned down t S alers | front to the flaring flounce, or buttoned | < their | down the entire length of the left side nd v seam. Or else it may button half wa > ter the {ash- it with jew- | The | ts match a hair line of silk that crosses | | One design in cream white is silk-dotted The col- | In putting on a glove be careful to get each finger straight. by rubbing gently with the thumb and first finger until the fingers are down to the very ends. In taking the gloves off turn the wrist over the fingers and take hold of the ends of the fingers through the wrist. It wears a glove out badly to pull off by catching hold of the finger tips Pull the glove into shape and lay aside carefully. Silk should be kept to match each shade, and gloves should be mend- ed as soon as a break appears, for the old proverb, “A stitch in time saves nine,” is especially appropriate to these les of attire, The New Overskirt, Absolutely Plain in the Back; No Plaits or Gathers at the Waist. 000000000 CLC0C200000020.0000000000000000000000N00C0C0D0 ELLA WHEELER WILCOX’S OPINION OF SELF-RESPECTING GIRLS CHARMING lady and well known actress was recently brought into brief unpleasant notice through being mentioned as a corespond- ent in a divorce suit. he lady proved herself to be | innocent of the charges made against her and her her de- one by valet and mald servant, women friends have rallied to fense as valiantly as men stand another under similar cjrcumstz This shows decided progress in woman toward broader standards of friendship, and should shut the mouths of her de- tractors who love to harp upoa the obso- lete theme of woman's enmity to woman. Meantime, this maligned young woman in the course of her testimony confessed to having driven some distance with a married man on a matter of business, and having accepted some inexpensive pres- ents from the man, which facts had been distorted and perverted by servants and enemies. Nevertheless, had this young woman in the beginning of her career drawn the line sharply between single and married men she might have escaped this disagreeable experienc There Is only one wise, discreet and safe course for a young woman to pursue when she enters upon a self-supporting career, That course is to absolutely re- fuse the slightest attention from any mar- ried man, ss he acts ry from his wife. Even then, if the young woman Is an actress, she should realize that she is a target for world’s curi- ous glances and refuse to drive alone with a married man, even upon a matter of business and cven with the wife's appro- val. The moment a girl relaxes her ideals in regard to thesc matters she endangers her reputatfon. It is useless for her to talk about the cruelty of the world, which will not allow a woman to enjoy a pla- tonle friendship. The world, no doubt, is cruel and suspiclous often, but platonic friendships are rare game, and the youn, woman who goes seeking them through marital forests is frequently accused ot poaching. The man who is happily married and is a good husband does not go about seek- ing the society of professional young women. The married man who wants to dine and drive with a single woman, no mat- ter what his excuse may be, is the one she needs to be on her guard agalnst. He is always selfish in his motives. ‘Were he not he would not subject her to the misconstruction which such actions invariably give rise to. . Defend’ the stage as we will, we all know that it Is surrounded Lv tempta- Coax each one on | slove mending is del- | Woman's Life. done in a huy carefully ar not lift your hat.” of two events which faith in the goodness of humanity petence to the end of his but T wish it might be spoken from every ]\\\Rfll in the land. an who has passed the than to find himself set out in the cold to unt for @ new vocation or a new posi- tion. the trunk of a tree about which it has n‘lnnh’ all its life. possibl attempt to climb anew. tions and machine-like tr are frequent. ing life ha ness is considered no more than a fly on the branch of a tree which man fells, if the corporation decides on making changes. French women seét a good example, and have made quite an art of putting on gloves, and this is why a Parisi- enne's gloves last her four times as long as any olse's. gloves should never be | The wrist ghould be tly pulled straight and | ody Buttoning tions to a certain freedom and lMeens: I am sure, a tender spot In the heart for |the skén. | of thought and action not found in other the little newsboyvs, many of them mere| Take care not to take cold after a | vocations 2 bables who should be rocked to sleep in| warm bath. Envelop the body in a huge | Because of this fact any self-respect- their mothers’ arms instead of braving | Turkish towel and with it rub the body | ing girl who chooses the career cold and heat to help keep the family pot | briskly, dealing more gently with the actress ought to 2vo by every boiling. neck and face. If you can follow vour eans er power SUBE 1 ) z i:u‘xfi'vr”f-( to the rul of discreet ¢ mEU: !ttdlrrhes Ssemgs gri:(at‘ ):lt)"ln"“‘ | R?:]l: :‘r‘imtg '5"?&?{10%:1:‘(;”‘:0 mx‘r:ficfimdm: ct. The very first rule, which any of these boys seek to add to the |y, 24 h nould dictaie, 18 to keep Teceipts of their legitimate business by | DefSr, There {smotning fuiore metryy o st rom the ranks of her n you through melon a pateh. do not s to tie your shoe, and if in walking through an apple orchard do in Saicenan vear came in I have heard have renewed my Since the new in na A man in a suburban town has pen- It strikes me there is a large field here | vety appearance, make yourselves some sioned his carriage horses wxilen have for Sun school teachers, teachers of | bath bags. Formula for a very elaborate served him twenty vears, and a frm in kinderga schools all | one was given in the Sunday Call of Oc- city has pensioned an emplove Who gver the city. Every boy and girl should | tober 2. It s a treasure and I hope a grown old in working for the inter- 306 "tYe“truth driiled into their young|lot of you have trled it. However, to of the business. b n\:;}}\v “&"r?fg.g).'-m(sn' S "\;’mdrlx‘!”w‘l t}:g be “for value received,” if they wish to | Simple I would suggest one that has been T il be given @ Wwarm stall in- be considered respectable and worthy citi-| used singe the tlme ‘of vour grand. inoe ond o precn pastura in summep Z€ns. A great deal more can'be done.infmothem. It is made'by combining equal er T D enition of ot this way for the rising generation than | PArts of shaved castile soap. aimond meal 2 by teaching the catechism or explaining | and_powdered orris root. Make your ounger man will serve the business Bible parables. Let the little folks be | Dags out of cheese cloth and never use O but the old man will recelve a com- taught self-reliance and self-respect, and | 9n¢ & second time, as the meal is apt to life. This is beautiful and just and right. would be as beautiful were it not so un- w! common. W I do not know the name of this firm, is It calls for a sermon a praise service. “There is no fate much sadder for a man half century mark in gi He is like an old vine torn from He finds it almost im- 3: ¢ to lift himself from the earth and w to Yes, in these days of soulless corpora- s, such events A man whose whole work- been connected with a busi- the wood- Many business houses whose heads pride themselves on their fine sense of honor in to bring this honor to bear upon their treatment of employes who are no longer serviceable to them. charged and given letters of recommenda- tion, and that is the end of it so far as they charged man it is often the beginning of a tragedy. ought to give an editorial to the New York firm which and admirable precedent. all business transactions never think @ The men are dis- are concerned; but for the dis- Every newspaper in the land EEX XXX 4 has established a new PS Every New—miik man and womasn hoge @ | who sought advice upon the preservation | say “‘dead beat? The moment a boy or man gets the idea | and dwarfing his spirit of independence. let them realize that business and begging It Should never go hand in hand. The boy gained by begging.—Ella Wheeler Wilcox, | from Bllkins. and sent her around, came back.” Post. GChe .73(11/},‘ as an JHid to .@eamfy. By Mme. Hygeia. This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy giene of proper living. If any one désires information on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, the buttons insinuated gently into the | o W women, seem to realize that | of her loveliness. The clever old doctor | holes. Use a glove buttoner always; it the bath. when properly taken, is (“3“:\31!;”!" she ao‘poTI»d gli'n’s" ]her nI vial & = ¥ R oloe: teat Tai o ng a colorless liquid, and in- ruins both “‘l" !‘";“{‘I‘L ke ;‘f:‘fl““d the ;."{ Bree ‘b*‘ "”;‘l_ _"’_'-'“"d“ -‘“f}‘]“” structed her to take a daily bath of soft | finger tips to button them without. as ever been discovered. en | water in which were three drops of the | After purchasing a new pair of gloves I am appealed to in cases of fa- | precious liquid. His advice was followed alway the buttons on before wear. cial eruptions my first advice is | for vears, and the lady preserved lier ing them. The annoyance of having the | baths and plenty of 'em. | };;fil’?s' to a mncll om”agev A\?,Pa?;\'h‘!ev}‘. ons drop off will then b colded.— o i ; e siied) been seccretly discovere hat the buttons drop off e avolded.. There is a story told of a famous beauty | ¢lixir given her by her physician <was nothing more or less than some of *ne !l | same water used for her baths. It was | a ruse—the only one which could have in- duced her to take a daily bath, the mer- its of which the sage old fellow knew | full well. The 10ad to beauty was Greek and Roman women hundred years ago. They did not begin to hs resources in cosmetic arts that we now, but they understood thoroughly the two vital points in the pursuit of comeliness were cleanliness and health. To this end they bathed incessantly. Ath- letic games also occupled a large portion of their time, and thereby hangs the se- cret of their well-developed forms -and fine, stately carriages. Oil of cocoanut and almond oil formed the basis of all their lotions for the face. These beautles of the past. no doubt, had much more leisure for their games and baths than have the busy women of the present day, but we might do worse than follow in the wake of their most ex- cellent teachings. Their matchless love- liness proved the wisdom of their meth- | ods. . The bathrooms in even the most ordi- nary modern flats are apartments so con- veniently planned that baibin instead of being a trouble, gorating pleasure. I am a firm bellever in the need of the dalily bath. I do not think a | A c thorough soapy scrubbing, | each day, but I believe in the plunge and | quick $ponge. Then once a week and in many cases twice during the seven days a thorough scrubbing shouid be indulged in. In no other way can the flesh be kept | firm and healthy. | The cold bath, if one is robust enough | to stand it, is invigorating and a ventive against taking cold, but for a person of delicate physique would mean almost certain suicide. Therefore, I do not advise it as a general thing, for the | shock of the cold water immediately | closes the pores, and they retain impurl- tles that should be cast out. The best way is to take a tepld sponge, letting the | cold water run until the bath is pretty well chilled. While the cold bath is Invigorating, the warm, soapy bath is necessary for actual cleansing. When taking this soapy bath use plenty of pure castile soap and a flesh brush, a brisk scrubbing with which | will rid the cuticle of the tinv flakes that it is continually throwing off. and cleanse | the pores of their ofly secretions as noth- | ing else can. { he temperature of the water should | never be more than 9 or 9 degrees. There is much diversity of opinion as to whether a bath should be taken at night or in the morning, which question, 1 think, is best decided by the individual. It is often claimed that a warm bath taken at night will soothe the nerves anc | make one sleep like a baby, but I have | known many persons to whom it was an imposaibility, making them restless and wide awake. | The bath taken before going to bed is desirable for one reason: That is, that it opens the pores of the skin and leaves it in excellent condition to absarb a good | skin food, thus whitening and beautifying When a tiny newsboy reet begging. i ou please give a poor b Von't pleasant tonlc when one is worn out or| v 0 Or boy | weary. A little cornstarch in the water penny, lady?" it 1s hard to refuse, vet| will sometimes whiten the skin. Turkish We 8T _" the request is it "‘)4‘ encourag- | paths, indulged in occasfonally, are splen- g the child to become a tramp and a|did complexion makers. When the skin Is dry and feverish a dry bath or massage | will asslst the circulation and bring about | a more healthy condition of the skin. 1f you wish a fragrant bath and one which will give the skin a charming, vel- his head of obtaining something for | )thing he is lowering his moral nature inds that all money transactions must | those of you who prefer something more sour after using. 3 . P Answers to Correspondents. | 8. M. H.—I think your physiclan was right, in a way. The spots upon your | nose and the hard white lumps must be | | a form of acne. These cases are obst nate always and when underneath the | skin, as in vour case, particularly hard | to reach. I can only suggest the face scrubbing brush and thorough massage with cold cream each night. Then see to | it that the blood Is kept In a state of ab- | solute purity by strict attention to the| dlet, exercise and baths. Avoid all rich, greasy foods and sweets as well as aclds. “That's what I thought, so I got one | Magnesia will not injure your skin. but she never| G. E. M.—Sage tea Is a splendid tonic ! for the hair, and if made very strong will also darken it slightly. Take a handful of sage leaves and boil them into a tea. Add two tablespoonfuls of alcohol to rach quart of the tea, and apply to the roots| ho keeps his mind on selling his papers {ll realize more profit than the one who on the lookout for an ‘‘extra penny" New York Evening World. ———— “Yes,” said the business man, “I have | ven up trying to coilect that little bil You see, he Is a pretty | &, husky fellow, and he used to throw | y collectors out.” “Then why didn't you employ a oman collector? He couldn’t do that a woman.” 1 “Why not?" “He married her.”—Chicago Evening e — 0000000000055 660 | of the halr with a small sponge Jjust befare going to bed at night. Trim the ends of the hair once a month. cleanse it The Sunday Call, 32 from dust collected during the day by 7 the u: the rus fac night an pages, delivered at your | nampoo ‘every two weeks: TOURRAINE C. — Scrubbing the face each night with a camel’s hair complexion brush, tepid water and castile soap wili revent the black specks from fi]fllfln; home by mail for §1 50 a year. Subscribe for it. POOPP P pre- | g nto the pores and mnl:lnfi you unhappy. ® ; | 3 $0PPOPOPOSOS®O P OH O, Foilow the scrubbing with application The Sunday Call, San Francisco. of a good cold cream. Camphor ice is ex. cellent for chapped nands. The sage tea just spoken of in letter to ( M. wil be better then ordinary tea for the eve- brows, as the latter Will have no effect upon their growth. Be careful though about using it on the eyelashes. as almo anything used upon them is liable to get Info the eves and inflame them. JESSIE—There are a number of things that can be used upon the hair to brin out_the reddish_tints, but as you such a fine head of hair I have not the conscence to advise any of them. Bleach- ing the hair is a kind of slavery, for as | the hair grows out of course it comes the natural color and the bleach has to be ap- plied to the roots again and again. It is almost sure to get too light in the end, and when the roots are dark it gives the head a most untidy appearance. So do try and be satisfied with your hair as it is. I am sure it is prettier than it would 6 if changed by artificial means. A tai- lor-made street gown is eminently proper to wear to church, and whereas a Fedora hat is not_inappropriate, something a trifie more dressy would bé more sultable. Black and green are very pretty together. and your idea for trimming your hat is | charming, except that I should omit the algrette, as they are but little worn now. A READ For the red nose and face try frequent applications of diluted witch azel, and see -to it that the clothing is lo particularly about the waist and neck. Also soak the hands and feet in hot water every night. The liquid face pow- der that vou are using is as good or better than any I could give formula for. You can use it with perfect safe MRS. EMILY J. LEWIS pply witch hazel to the dark circles under the eyes. If they are caused by some internal trou- The Becoming “Chou” Rosette; How to Make It and How to Wear It is necessary | ble, which is more than likely, medicine ed by a physiclan {s the only prescrf at will do away with them per- thing t manentl. P. M. P. ¢a—The orange flower skin food, which contains both lanolin and cocoa- nut ofl, is used particularly to obliterate wrinkles. The other formula that I have v is a simple cold cream. Use the skin food every night. The alum bath is to be used only in case of flabbiness of the skin. 1 cannot possibly tell how long it will be before any effect will be noticed, as some skins respond more quickly to treatment than others. I am really afrald to suggest anything at all to darken the eyelaghes. it is so dregpdfully risky to apply any sort of a letion. It is sure to get into the eves and injure or weaken them. I am sorry. The flesh at the back of the neck can be reduced by rubbing the flesh between the fingers. This will dissolve the fatty tissues. Smear the skin with cold cream before beginning the massage. I prefer the camel's hair rush to all others. Am very that you have found my B See Mme. Alma E. Keith's window. First importation from Pz ombres, chinioses silks, worth $2, our leader Toc. 808 Market, Phelan bullding. Keith's spring styles, * CIENCE & GENEROSITY Bring COLOR and Firmness to Your CHEEKS. system of treatment prevents wear and of your face. I will give the result of years of sclentific research to any lady inter- ested. THIS TREATMENT FREE TO YOU. There will not be a trace of Wrinkles Freckles My Coarse Pores MRS. NETTIE HARRISO LATEST PORTRAIT Sufficient treatment that you may see and This offer stands. FOR ONE WEEK. 4-DAY HAIR RESTORER Imparts the natural color to gray or fad hair. Nota dye. No disagreeable afte & nor stickiness. $1 00. T effects, SUPERFLUOUS HAIR Permanently removed by the El ¥ as operated by me. ¢loctiici Neatly LOLA MONTEZ CREME Is a skin purifier and tissue buflder wi i 58 thout an equal on earth. It is a naturs jar lasts 3 months. o Rk ol of town TRIAL PO sending this ad. with 10c in stamps will receive a book of instructions and & b o : Powder PRIG, 01d Montez Creme and Face Visit me and see what may be done for you. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON DERMATOLOGIST, 40-42 Geary Street, San Francisco, to be seen. be ziven FREE 8o derstand for yourself. T Ladies out