The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 25, 1898, Page 27

THE N FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 25, 1898 27 before the holidays Dame ws lavish. She ds- h a reckless hand. , Teception, dinner hown with an ching voids that in the pocket- e disregard of se will ackets, opera cloaks, coi- bewlitching array are they - will bes holidays a 1sual demands » wear and tear of the practically ruins h hen there must be a dainty rch and a fresh-looking A pretty dinner gown Is te for the holiday ward- to that a wrap and the list ot ¥ has not gowns that meet her looks them over with ical eye she manages to spite the hurry-flurry of ities. the holiday cotillon, f the new debut innovation in that s ular flounce it is cut like the of course, touches shell pink and the ff of crape. Soft entire garment. - imported cape to be worn b local grand dame w terial was brocaded d yellow satin re and ending in tabs bottom of the cape were of the yellow f those in I 3 very much shorte reaching just to the elbow. The waist and is lined k. satin. The collar is of designed for one of our rettes is of lemon colored in princesse style. The bodice anged with a vest of softly gathered 2 1 of the s 2, having on either side encircling vkes and Louis XV ws of bl relvet ribbon. The ffont nel of the skirt is of chiffon. from which extends festoons and bows of black round the entire train. The lemon colored chiffon were ght at intervals by rosettes of black velvet, in the center of each one of which flashes a jewel ther charming gown is of pale pink adorned with trails of graceful iris blos- goms, iinted in delicate tones of yellow e and purple, some of the petals outlined with glittering threads of B very handsome gown is of blue, dec- rated with sprays of leaves patterned in black lisse and cobwebby lace on a back- ground of white satin, while ribbonlike traills and great true lovers’ knots wrought in thickly massed jet paillettes shone out from all this delicate softness, n_the bodice the little leaves clustered still more closely and a central true lov- ers’ knot was filled in with a shimmering embroidery of pearls. A handsome jacket bodice of black vel- vet to be worn at church is very strik- e front opens over a vest of cream brocade, spangled with gilt, and vest is fastened down the center with fancy buttons. The fitted back is illion shape, and the short fronts ly pointed. The fronts turn b rd the top In large revers, which are faced with cream satin, the high cof being faced with the same g gown hasg been especially de- show off to advantage the iy of the wearer. She is go- r in it for the first time on Christmas morning in church, and it is safe to predict many eves will wander in her direction. The material is apple green chenille and steel beads. The coat s of .gree et made tight fitting and aps over tc left with four large fancy buttons. T at rounds away from the front to almost the hem of the skirt at back. A band of the steel and black henille borders the entire coat. A particularly pretty tea gown has just been sent home by a local modiste. It 18 of pale blue cashmere, with applique bands of Ivory lace outlined with gath- erings of black satin baby ribbon across 1e bloused front. Below this falls long ash ends and 100Ds of soft pale blue silk, reaching to the bottom of the skirt. The 1k of this exquisite gown is cut in prin- thape, and is perfactly plain. from k to hem. The long, close-fitting ves finished at the hand by applique wds of fvory lace outlined by gather- baby ribbon. At the shoul- er there is a fall of lace, looped up by a bow of black velvet. high m{lar of ack velvet had its height increased by ble fulls of ivory lace wired, which kes a becoming setting for the fair face within. Since the wiseacres are all praying for rain and the weather seems to be inclin- ing a favorable ear to the pleadings it might be well to mention sumbrellas. ‘round wooden bars, covered with on skin made fast with gold-headed . are the most novel umbrella han- s in the market. A pure slate blue is he color of the sea-lion’s skin. Like alli- or skin it improves in tone by use. leautiful enamel, jade, leather, gold, ivo- rv and gun metal handies can be had. The newest umbrellas are made so that any one of a number of handles can be screws ed on to it. With really only one silk rain protector one can seem to have several by the use of these adjustable tops. There are inexpensive ones as well as those that test the purse of Fortunas. RLSESGR Back GoMES TBE BOLERO. § T is the unexpected that's sure to »pen. Now, just when we are in J| the midst of basques which extend be- low the waist in all condition of cuta- way and peplum effects—full, scant, long or rt—here comes a last importation, showing the jaunty bolero again. Not the simple little trifie which delighted the ordinary modiste or the ambitious wo- man who makes her own dresses; oh, no; very perfection of exquisite work- fit and fetching smart- sw boleros won't claim the nt kinship with the simple models of pre These are decidedly the ts of the mode, and while not in the way of size will command quite a respectable tailor's bill for all that. The long coat, however Eng- lish and regal looking, is not so generally becoming as might ve supposed. and the woman whno stopped growing upward_too soon in her taste to grow broader, finds th ect, as she peeps into show win- dows at her reflection, is not as pleasing as it might be when compafed with her taller sisters; so, while the bolero is an insignificant thing to talk about, it some- how gives her her full stature, and pre- tends a little more, besides being so smart and quaint for fashionable indoor func- tions, where, somehow, the long coat looks a little too much' like the prome- nade; and, still further, the bolero is ac- commodating and never demands a long wrap, so it returns from its threatened exile from fashion’s favor in full, tri- umphant glory. Al e (GaRrE OF TBE PHOES. ff OW, in “the winter of our discon- [\\ tent” we find nothing -more an- {l )| noving than the way in which our shoes refuse to be kept nice and in good order. It is npt a difficult task if one gives them just a little daily care. When you remove heavy street boots don’t toss them away in the closet all rumpled. Take time to stretch the up- pers a trifle to straighten out the lacing wrinkles. Do the same with the tongue. Brush off the dust, and if they are damp put them where a current of air can thor- oughly dry them. Banana skins make an excellent dressing and keep the leather soft. They are especially nice for clean- ing enameled or patent leather. If your feet perspire freely use a good antiseptic powder freely dusted in the shoes; it will rest the feet and save the stocking. The grime and dust in the shoestring are very the dirt {s ground trings are drawn up tightly. stingy with shoe- strings, Your dealer will furnish them free of charge, so change them often. Besides being clean, they add greatly to the appearance of the shoe. plci i s HRILLS OF HaspIow. The feminine. waist looks larger, but it really Is no larger than it was a year ago, the same style corsets being worn, and, indeed, waists are compressed a bit more most dis us season: this year than they were last, tight bodices being more in v« ~ue. Tt is all due to the sleeves. The big Sleeves made waists look smaller by giving width to the shoulders. Evening gowns, many of them, are without a sign of sleeve. The fancy silk bodices have sleeves fitted close and flat at the tops. They may be tucked in little flat groups, but there are few even of the wrinkled ones shown. The fashion- able sleeve, beyond a doubt, is the tight, flat one. [ The fad for green stones is growing. First, of course, comes the emerald—as valuable as the diamond and often more so0. A flawless emerald is rarely found, and is very costly. The rich, deep color, €0 beautiful in itself, however, is not as becoming_as that of stones of lesser yalue. The chrysoprase, for instance, Which is a lovely apple green, or the peridot, sometimes called the evening emerald. This last is a transparent leaf green. The latest idea is to set this stone in green enamel and surround the whole with or dlamonds. The olivine and chrypolite and varieties of the peridot. The aquamarine, a pale seagreen semi- precious stone, i also coming into favor. These are mounted in gold alone or with pearls. A lovely opal brooch I saw the other day was surrounded by diamonds and olivines, the yellowish green of the latter enhancing the exquisite tints of the opal. Then there are odd charms for the watchchains of olivines combined with diamonds in the form of tortoises, frogs and scorpions, In the new jewelry stick- pins are prominent, favorite designs being a small wreath of leaves, a large single coach horn, mercury wings, flag, a ¢ branch, various animals, different flowers and semi-precious stones set with pearls or diamonds, as a turquoise or a moonstone. e L0ST ON & PBOPPING TOUR ££ (N AY. 0ld man, T made the most ab- mistake yvesterday. A police ol wagon passed me, and I could have sworn I caught a glimpse of you in it." “What time was it “About 5 in the afternoon; perhaps a little later.” “Well, it wasn't a mistake. Tt was 1" “What! You arrested! What for?” “To save my life.” “Why, how?” “Well, the trouble began when my wife asked me, just as I started downtown after breakfast, to drop into Wholeblock’s department store and get her a spool of thread. So as to be sure I didn't forget it, I went there before going to the office, and after some little trouble I found the right counter and bought the thread all right. Then I started out, at peace with the world; but when 1 got to where the door ought to have been it wasn’t there. 1 smiled a little at getting twisted like that, and started back to the other end of the store; but the door wasn't there, either. “Well, sir, T roamed around for a couple of hours, laughing at myself all the tirhe for being fool enough to get lost in a store, looking for that elusive exit, and never getting an inch nearer to it, apparently. Then I quit laughing and settled down to a systematic search for the way out. After another hour of fruitless effort I found myself just as far from my object as ever, and maybe got a little rattled and excited; at any rate, I remember darting up one aisle and rushing down another, pushing my way desperately through throngs of women and rloting around counter after counter, until I was completely tired out, but never catching even a glimpse of the door. “Then at last the awful seriousness of v position burst upon me. There I was, actually, I feared irrevocably, lost in a trackless, {llimitable waste of dr goods. At the least it might be days before I could work my way out. I tried to think what it was best to do. But the horror of my_situation seemed to benumb my brain. xt I have a confused recollection of plunging here,.there, everywhere, in fran- tic efforts to escape. I have a dim idea that in my despair I even offered the ele- vator boy fabulous sums to cut the ele- vator loose and shoot me out through the roof. All the rest is a hideous phantas- magoria of reeling counters, wheeling floors, whirling crowds of women, seem- ingly dancing diabolical jigs at the sight of my misery, until late in the afternoon, 1 staggered, panting, starving, desperate, up against one of the counters in that vast, impenetrable jungle. “The very violence of my exertions had by this time worn out the crazy rioting of my fears and to some extent cleared my brain, and my bloodshot eyes fell upon the gloves scattered over the counter upon which I supported myself I had an inspiration—a heaven-sent plan of escape suggested itself. With elaborate cunning, calculated to attract attention, I slipped a pair of the gloves into my pocket and pretended to make off. For one dreadful moment my heart stopped beating, as no one seemed to notice my theft; but the next instant a hand was clapped heavily upon my shoulder and, eureka! 1 was led to the Inauguration Gown Of Mrs. Governor Gage HERE are some exquisite gowns laid 'away in @ainty tissue cover- ings that will have to waste their sweetness on the desert air until the inauguration festivities at Sacramento. 1T them all is designed for Mrs. Gage, wife of the Governor-elect. Dame Fashion and Dame Rumer in a happy combination have whispered royal edicts to the effect that nothing so beautiful has ever been seen at an inauguration ball. The gown was made and designed by a leading Los Angeles modiste. Mrs. Gage resolutely stifled the tiny feminine longing for something direct from Paris. She turned a deaf ear to New York, and even refused to con- sider San Francisco. - Mrs. Gage helleves in patronizing home industry, so to a Los Angeles modiste was intrusted the making of the ball gown. The modiste has appreciated the honor and has planned an artistic crea- tion that would put to blush gowns that bear the maglc tag of foreign im- portation. With a staff of helpers she has worked out the simple but graceful design, and the effect is an artistic, harmonious one. The foundation of the gown is white taffeta. white and silver-brocaded satin. The silver is interwoven in a delicate design that gives a soft, elusive shimmering effect to the gown. The skirt is cut en train and hangs in long, unbroken, sweeping lines. Dainty dust ruffles of lace are placed for protection, but really serve as an ornamentation. rsage is cut decollete and is trimmed in rare real lace. S (mgt of the lace, sweet with the frafirance clv_‘f T e to the charm. For the lace is a family heirlvom. ifif\ursiifigdrsnusses about the shoulders and is draped in cascade effect down cate ivory the front of the corsage. The exquisite coloring of this gown will emphasize the beauty of a bru- nette, ?mrl cf\lrs. Gage is certainly a charming example of this type. S i ho graced the balls when Monterey was the capital. recall the senoritas W 00000000000000000 00000000 0Q0VOO000 oor and given in charge to a policeman door A ifter. I could have husged the &tore detective as I once more felt the lorious free air of heaven upon my fe- vered fuce.” e “But how did you fix the matter up? “Oh, easily enough. The Judge hap- pened’ to be a married man himself, so When T explained and offered to either return or pay for the gloves—which, by the way, were a pair of coalheaver's mitts—he discharged me at once, ruling that mine was a justifiable expedient, since ' ty knows no law.’ "—Harp- er's Bazar. ———————————— Providence tempers the wind to the shorn 1" ab.” That is why Christmas comes but once a year. 00C0C0C000000000000000000000000000000CC00000000000000 00000000000 Grat Oired and Worried fiee//ny Beauty Talks by Mme. Hygeia. 000000000 © 000C0000000CON0O000000000000000000000000000000000000000 This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. HAT there are among the many readers of these Beauty Talks vast number of brave little bread- winning girls and -women I feel more than certain. Many of them, no doubt, were never intended for work of any sort; indeed, T am pretty sure that in the great and wonderful be- ginning of things it was never meant that women should work, 1 am very firmly convinced in my own mind that in the original mapping out of things it was intended that women should ft, pretty thing of whims and ca- a thing to be petted and humored and taken care of. But, alas! the scheme of the universe went awry, and in the general confusion and chaos woman was pushed out into the world to put her shoulder to the wheel and to assist in the common_ struggle for existence. That this true is proven by the num- ber of weary, patient, brave little faces one sees at 6 o'clock upon the crowded streets or in the street cars, all hurry- ing home after a long day’s work in office or factory. Woman is not given to the solving o. problems; the “‘why and_‘*‘wherefores” enter not inte her logic, and so, when the day has been particularly long and hard, when she has come home with a sharp little pain in her head and a dull ache at the back of her neck she feels positive that the only answer to the question as to whether life is worth living is a large round “No. : : ‘When she has reached this stage there is just one thing for her to do. First, she must get out of her tight clothe: Then she must bathe her face and neck for five minutes in tepid water. After that she must take out the forty odd hairpins that are torturing her throbbing head, let her hair tumble over her shoul- ders, and ‘then lie down flat upon her b’:’\[ this point she must not pick up and begin to read a cheerful or pious book nor any other kind of book, but just relax every muscle in her body and give her- self up to the single thought of how heavy she is and how the couch supports her. If she does not drop to sleep, as she probably will, she should rise at the end of half an hour. She will scarcely know herself for the same weary pilgrim that staggered into the house a short time before. She will feel several years younger; there will be no pain anywhere, and life will seem altogether more ro- seate and very much worth living. Some Sunday, soon, I'm going to give a special beauty talk to these heroic working girls and give them a few hints as to how they may enjoy some of the luxuries of the toilet without going to any great expense. I have made my talk short to-day so as to try and get caught up in a measure with the correspondence. Answers to Correspondents. BLUEBELL—The dark lines under the eves and the fading of the roses from your cheeks indicate some physical dis- order. Try and discover what it is and remedy it. Witchhazel is the only thing 1 know of that may help the dark circles, but as long as there is a cause for them they are pretty sure to remain. A nightly scrubbing with a camel’s hair face brush and pure castile soap is the best treat- ment for large pores. When they have been emptied of their secretions use the following lotion: Precipitated sulphur, 1 dram; ether, 4 drams; alcohol, 3l ounces. Rub into the skin at night just before go- ing to bed and be sure and shake well before using. KATIE —1 do not think there i danger he hairs on the fac any coarser or ‘more numerot use of the pumice stone. Of cou hairs will continue to grow, pumice’ stone will have to be used con- stantly. If the hairs are dark I would advise applications of peroxide of hydro- gen, with a little ammonia added. The peroxide will bleach them so that they will be scarcely noticeable, and the am- monia will gradually deaden them. The orange flower skin food is as excellent as anything ever invented for the removal of wrinkles, but of course if the lines come from frowning it will be impossible to get rid of them until you break your- self of that ugly little habit. there is solutely nothing, I know, th will prevent the growth of down that vou speak of. The following astringent lotion is better than lemon juice for coarse pores: Take a half pint bottle and place in it three ta- blespoonfuls of fresh, uncooked cucumber juice. Half fill the bottle with elder flower water and then add two table- spoonfuls of eau de coiogne. Shake well and add very slowly f an ounce of simple tincture of benzoin, shaking the mixture now and then. Fill the bottle with elder flower water. Be sure that there are mno settlings in the benzoin, else it will be apt to curdlé the lotion. BIRDIE DO—What you need is a gen- eral building up of flesh. That is the best way to round out the hollows in the neck and raise the sunken cheeks. To do this first of all, you must stop worrying. Do not fuss or fret over anything. Then eat all the starchy, fattening foods, such as rice, butter, cereals, eggs, milk and game. Hot chocolate and preserved figs are both splendid fatteners. Get all the sleep you can, take tepid baths and exercise mod- erately. Taploca. vermicellis, custard pudding, macaroni and cheese can be in- dulged in, but pickles and all foods con- taining acid must be avoided. Rubbing the chest with cocoanut ofl will help, and the breathing exercises given in the Beauty Talk of November 13 wili be of inestimable benefit. Treatment of pim- ples was thoroughly gone over in last Sunday’s paper in reply to O. L. B. Did you not see it? SNOWBALL—If your hair shows an in- clination to grow in darker I really do not see how you can prevent it. Shampoo- ing the hair frequently will keep it from getting olly, and will thus give it a lighter, more fluffy appearance. For the falling hair there is nothing better than this tonic: Four ounces cologne; one- half ounce tincture of cantharides and one-fourth dram each of oil of laven- der and oil of rosemary. Apply to the roots once or twice a day, using a small sponge for the p..ryose. By the way, what color is your hair? If it is light the lem- on halr wash will bring out the golden tints. Here is tue formula: One ounce salts of tartar; one qudrt of water and JHREE STUNNING EVENING WRAS. the juice of three lemons. Use as a sham- poo and then rinse thoroughly. FERIDA—The best treatment for black- heads is a gentle scrubbing every night with a camel’s hafr face scrub- bing brush, castile soap and tepid water. Then after the face has been thoroughly rinsed and dried apply & good cold cream, such as the creme violette formula for which was given in last Sunday's Call, Do not neglect for one day the tepid sponge bath, and in obstinate cases of blackheads 1 adyvise two hot, soany baths a week. Daily exercise and proper food are most necessary. Stop pinching or pressing out the tiny black specks. This is a most unnatural proceeding and altogether too irritating. A little pow- dered- borax or‘fl, bit of linen rubbed light- ly over the blackheads is also good. do not advise sulphur baths, unless ad- ministered by an_experienced person. ELSIE R. Mc—The hair will not grow in length as long as the ends are split. See to it that these are removed from time to time. The excess of dandruff is undoubtedly the cause of your loss of hair. Here is a dandruff cure. that is al- most infallible and which I am confi- +dent will stop the falling hair: Forty- eight grains resorcin, one-half ounce glv- cerin, and alcohol enough to fill a two- ounce bottle. Apply every night, rubbing it into the scalp. The scalp must be kept perfectly clean, else the halr will not flourish™_as it should. The’formula for skin food is this: Spermaceti, one-half ounce; white wax, one-half ounce; sweet almond oil, one ounce; lanoline, one ounce; cocoanut ofl, one ounce; tincture benzoin, 10 drops; orange flower water, one ounce. Melt the first five ingredients in a porce- lain kettle. When thoroughly incorpor- ated remove from the fire and add the benzoin and orange flower water, beating with an egg-beater until cold. The cost of the materials will be about 40 cents, I think. Two tablespoonfuls equal one ounce and one teaspoonful is equal to one dram. The brown spots on the face and neck are probably liver spots, and come from a disordered liver. There is no remedy but to cure that which causes titem. 1 answer questions through the mail only when the information asked is such as cannot be printed in these col- umn EVA—Write again and just as often as you feel inclined. If you will please read foregoing replies to Bluebell and Elsie R. Mc you will find your first two questions answered. I have never known the skin food to cause superfluous hair. In trying to put on flesh it is better, I think, to de- pend upon the food one eats. Of course, cod liver oil and other oils will help in the fattening process, but unless these are prescribed by one's physician it is better to let them alone, as they are very apt to upset the stomach. Massaging the face with the skin food wiil plumpen fit. Bathing it in warm milk will also have this effect. MISS CURRAN-—-For answer to your first questjon—Melt together equal parts of red vaseline and cocoanut oil and rub in thoroughly every night. Question No. 2 calls for equal parts of lanoline, cocoa butter and cocoanut oil, meited together. Massage with this for fifteen minutes, rubbing around and around and up. The rubbing must be gentle, as the glands The most beautiful of -save when the hairs are coar: The material is of heavy oses and of yester- are very sensitive. The clothing must be loose. A MUCH-WORRIED MIND—In my re- ply to Elsie R. Mc I have given formula for skin food and directions for making. Will you please read it? Am sorry [ could not answer your letter sooner, but there were many ahead of it. Thank you for your cordial wishes. AGGIE K ou can redu vour flesh permanently only by a thorough change of diet and life, assisted by continuous exercise. Avoid all sugary and starchy food: and fattening vegetables, ch as rice, potatoes, turnips and beets. Eat sparingly of butter, drink little cof- fee and no milk, and substitute toast for bread. . Get up early in the morning— never’ sleey re than seven heurs—and walk and e all that you e Two grams . of bicarbonate soda each meal will_help, according to Trousseau, & celebrated French ph To remove the white spots from nails melt equal parts of pitch and turpentine in a smau cup; add to it a little vinegar and pow- dered sulphur, and rub_on the nails. There is nothing that will remove super- flucus hair ™ tly except the elec- c needle, d this is not practicable and scat- upon the tered. For the fuzz th: face you can keep it we down to the e of the skin by the constant use piece of smoothly finished pumice or you can bleach it so that it will .ptible by applications of # hydrogen. to which a few drops onia have been adde: BABY T H—Try lemon juice with a little borax added to whiten the skin, particularly where there are freckles After using lemon juice upon the ski lect to use some cold cream. ible to say just how long you aration to see its good ins are much more re- tment than others. Six S ptty good test. 31 ¢ do not know enough the article you mention to express opinion as to its merits. In fact, I do not know which particular one you re- fer to. 1f your blood is poor, as the doe- gro Afiernoon Walking Gown of Brown Kersey, tor says, why not remedy that condition by proper food and exercise? The best way to develop the nec¢k and bust is to massage it for fifteen minutes each night with equal parts of lanolin, cocoa butter and cocoanut oil, melted together. In rubbing the bust rub with the palms of the hands around and up and let the rub- bing be gentle. Swin, ni Indian clubs will help, as wiil also the breathing exer- cises given in Beauty Talk of November 13. Did you see {t? Drop chalk will not injure the skin, although there are other powders that are preferable. GENOVIEVE G.—Please read foregoing reply to Babbie. > M. E. M.—I really think it very doubt- ful if you will succeed in making the scars disappear. As the other lotion had no effect, suppose you try this: Alcohol, 12 grams; tincture of benzoin, 2 grams; liquid storax, 2 grams. Dilute in water and apply at night, letting it dry on. Mas- saging with a good skin food “will often help to obliterate sears. P. G. J.—The only way to get rid of pimples to keep the blood in a condie tion of perfect purity. In order to do thi one must eat the proper sort of foods, take plenty of exercise, abstain from s ituous liquors and preserve absolu cleanliness of the skin. Unless thes: precautions are taken outward appli- cations will be of little use. If the red blotches are numerous One ounce glycerin, one-half ounce rosemary water and fifteen drops of carbolic acid. If the eruptions are of the kind that come to a tiny white head they must , be carefully opened with a fine needle and their contents gently ressed out. Immediately afterward a ealing wash must be applied. Use lis- terine diluted in three times as much boiled water for several nights and then alternate for several nights with a small pinch of borax mixed in two tablespoon- fuls of cologne. Pure imported castile soap is best for the face. LYDIA—I am sorry to disappoint you, but there is absolutely no such remeds as you desire. There is nothing I can sug- gest but a depllatory powder, and of course this would have to be used again and again. MME. HYGEIA. S AL S it 7 | Uncle Bob—I suppose you got lots ef nice Christmas presents? Little Jimmy—Naw, I didn't get nuth- in’ but a lot of useful things.