The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 20, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 1898. 0000000000000 0C00000000IWO0000000000C . CARE OF THE HANDS : :'-0000000000000000000000000000000000 This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in e of cosmetics and the hygiene of proper living. If any one mation on either of these subjects their questions will be vy answered in these columns. Write ac often as you like, ask y questions a3 you please and sign any name that you choose. .ss all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, san Fran- “ ned by using 1a ere when be- an, Is certainly uice an Cold cream should applied ter using lemon juic ply ofl which the the E: it must be remembe these remedies will eae t All d culti- are too snug w w and paragons _ Nothing can 1 have become enl: with badly . it is a most un- _And. to protect t cott d, prepared ¢ the palms 1 to nurse Of vour gloves. hd to handle . A very delightful chapped ¢ hands, which will be quic orbed by the skin and not leave the hands greasy, can b i as follows: whole, 60 grains. aciio) in_the rose- LR strain oth. vhich well immaculate al- ell kept, will cannot fall ation, even - to Correspondents. 1st remedy the can hope to ward appli- use as long them h a shiny look to pretty indulging in s Answers MRS. H there will most descrip- ywing lotion: 1 . one Mix by t Add one two quarts of hed. Do than the hing the the lotion, then pow- could {impress f putting upi t'is strong enou, by rl and often ely that soap ur skin. A > for a time. Use nd stop using the e anything of that in the shops and do not Ingredients of. The following cannot be improved upon: Spe ce ce; white wax, 3 ounce; nd oil, 1 ounc 15 coanut ofl, 1 ounce 10 drops; orange Go only to a first face cosmetic, on to make sure hich very best quality of ingre- r to washing the fac night with tepid w. nd almond meal . mas- sage thoroughly with the skin food. Don’t negleet the daily tepid sponge bath, w a hot bath once or twice a week, hour, plenty of exercise, and I feel certain that with your skin will improve. Let me s~ MRS As your hair is so very should recommend a tonic made :n grains of quinine dissolved i alf pint of alcohol. Once i tite often enough to w X s and a g vhen it is liberally endowed with natural olls a des: »onful of ammonia and a pinch of borax should be added to two quarts of warm water, when wash- v a ™ R % a pompadour naturally a “rat” is > pompad ur is monarch of all ‘;‘(l)fr’n \\l')hiclf N okes an elaborate pom- It relgns with an S030 " fogsible, even though the hair unequaled despotism. It refuses {g thin, absolutely to be given up. If Once the style is adopted it Is dtl’:' the hair i not thick enough to dress ficult to change it. Imagine having the OLIVE-GREEN AND BROWN CLOTH GOWN. formula for which Is given in foregoing In massaging always ing. This will soften the water, and make the soap more easily ri the hair. By “light exerc not to take violent exercise. ; gravies, sauces and sweets are the wor. things in the world for any stomach. you wish to gain flesh you must starchy, fattening foods, such as butter, cereals, eggs. milk and game, oca, sago, vermicelli or custard pudding, macaroni, cheese and salad served with plenty of ofl, but no vinegar. Avoid pickles and acids of all kinds. A bowl of bread and milk. just before retiring, will help wonderfully in your effort to gain LATEST LONDON STYLES OF DRESSING THE HAIR. lovely woman stoops to the folly. The “empire,” or neck curls are seen at all manner of times and places and with They are only per- missible when artistically arranged with an evening gown. hair (padded) thick and full in a puff around the face one day and the next day (without a “rat”) having it drawn back flat and comparatively thin. It would be almost like suffering the piti- ably ludicrous affliction of suddenly be- reply to C. V. rub transversel 8. B. B.—1 am s hold the flesh taut with the fingers of one hand while you rub with the other, using a circular, up- outward movement. is possible to describe it in v the following lotion on the reckles: Three grains borax, five drams roscwater and five drams orange flower If the brown patches are liver »ots nothing will remove them until the liver, which that I could not s it is to_giv or other information eptionally d when washing n, dried the face massage with the causes them, is remedied. . coming bald. Unquestionably ‘an era of borrowed locks and more or less elaborate hair dressing is upon us, and this notwithstanding that simply ar- ranged hair Is far more becoming and But since fashion decrees it all sorts of gowns. It requires the 27 000000000000000000000000000000000000g - FANCES UST at Thinksgiving time Dame Fashlon takes a full breath. Not that her royal mandates are less frequent or less Imperious. Dressmakers’ and milliners’ bills occupy their time-honored posi- tion at the breakfast table along with the coffee pot and the morning pa- per. But Dame Fashion has lost her Worrlefl. care-worn look. Unpald biils are not in her dominion, and she enjoys a breathing spell. Not that she fs idle, perish the thought! But her ingenuitv and time are devoted to trifles thin as alr, yet inex- pressibly dear to her feminine heart and dearer yet to her followers. For at Thinksgiving-tide fads and novelties—in short, the et ceteras of the tollet, occupy the attention of Dame Fashion. Her royal edicts regarding other matters have all been made public. The correct styles for the winter coats, wraps, hats, gowns and bodices, are no Jonger in dispute. The royal finger of Fashion points indisputa- bly to what is to be and what Is not to be. Until Fashion has settled the more nec- essary matters she turns a deaf ear to the fads and novelties. But when one by one the other questions are disposed of, then she lets herself run riot in dainty and ewitching accessories. bThey are as plentiful as the sand of the sea. Odd buttons, new designs in jewels, airy-fairy trifles that can be fastened on anywhere, something new from the crown of the head to the sole of the foot. And the heroine of the hour is the crayet, or jabot. It is displayed every- whare ‘and every woman either possesses one or has one Yn the course of construc- tion. Those shown in the shops are ex- tremely pretty, but if one s fond of doing dainty needlework, the making of the cravats will be a pleasure as well as an economy. The most popular of these new stocks is made of dotted silk muslin, the stock laid in folds, the cravat ends brought around from the back, cut in points and tied in a knot. The stock fastens at the back and s very easily adjusted. Other equally pretty ones are made of white mousseline de soie, the ends over- laid with fine black lace. Next to this comes the one of white satin with white lace applique. These have ends either edged with very narrow black lace or fine pieatings of satin rib- bon in color to match the cravat. There are plain black ones tnat go very stylish- Iy with the blouses of light colored silk, and those of pure white muslin are rming. A re vests and wide revers with- stocks bullt on that may be easily ad- justed to the plainest bodice, and at once give Tt & dressy air, They come in white, in black and in all colors, preferably of gatin. Tucking and rows of extremely narrow lace and shirred riboon are used or_trimming. g ]l:“éery King of lace. efther real or mi- tation, s used in some way. If you are fortuna.e enough to po; lace of any description twist and it into a becoming knot. If there are some pleces too large to be used in this manner it can be utilized in other ways. Little sleeveless coats of lace are charming adjuncts to a plain bodice. Lace polonaises are worn as well. They are cut away at the neck usually to show the un- der bodice of chiffon. ‘Short jacKets of black Chantilly over white satin are ex- ceedingly stylish, made with the round cutaway basque and cut out at the neck enough to give a yoke effect to the chif- fon bodice worn underneath. A narrow ruche of black chiffon finishes the edge prettily. Elbow sleeves are the rule for this sort of a bodice. Whether of lace, chiffon, fancy silk or tulle these jabots are considered the most delicate touches of elegance. They have a pleasing soft effect and are particularly becoming. They have an unmistakable Frenchy alr about them that proclaims the origin of their design if not the place of_their manufacture. Buttons have been allotted a prominent position in soclety. They are of enamel, exquisitely painted, of diamonds, of an- tique silver and of pinchbeck, and even of old lace mounted on velvet, but one and all_of them are of great size. Cameos that have long gathered the dust are being brought out of jewel cases. They are turned to good account as but- tons and as clasps at present, and they are fashionable. Spun silk hoslery was never so beauti- art of experienced hands to arrange these curls so that they shall not dis- figure the wearer. As a rule they look like extraneous bunches or fringed pendants, and the manufacturer’s tag is not necessary to proclaim the false N Thanksaiving Season 00000000000000000C000000000000000000 ONS 0000000000000 0000000000 ful in design and coloring. It fs fre- quently made to simulate real lace, and although so fragile looklng, is sald to wear fairly well. A néw fad is the self- gartering hose, made with a ribbon run fhrough the top and tied in a dainty ow. Evening slippers in the latest style are made of cashmere, in light blue or red. They have the high Louis XIV instep and are finished with fancy silver buckles. In walking shoes the most approved mode is in calf leather with fancy bro- guing laces and medium heel. The gloves proposed for evening wear this season are decided novelties. The color is a gris de perle. It is stitched in silk of white or of the same color and each of these stitchings on the back of the glove is surrounded or outlined in the fainter and most delicate lavender threads. Another pair of gloves for evening wear has black, white or cream lace reaching almost to the shoulders. APy, one of these oddities make _pretty and ‘acceptable gifts for the holidays. The flufty jabots and stocks are espe- clally suitable for this purpose. RESEE AR @owus FOR @RLS AND vV arrous. OR dinner parties the waists are made with long sleeves, guimpes and sleeves of a light material, and ekirt and waist of heavier silk. This makes the gown suitable for a the- ater party afterward. For a young girl a pretty gown might be made of light blue veilng wth a gored flounce headed and edged on the lower part wth three rows of blue velvet rib- bon No. 8; round blouse cut with a slight square in frent and edged with the rib- ben, and an inside frill o: lace te match that at the wrists; revers of white satin embroidered with spangles which imitate turquoise, and are sold by the dozen; a belt to match, fastening with a buckle of gilt and turquoise. Fer an elder sister a black taffeta skirt would be effective if worn with a walst of figured taffeta in which rese pink comes out strongly, giving an excuse for collar and belt of pink velvet in narrow folds with a bow of pointed ends at the back of each, and two rhinestone but- tons fastening both collar and belt a lit- tle to the left of the front; the waist ia made with a blouse front with a small yoke of white lace edged with a ruche of eilk having fringed edges, The mother, being suppesedly a matren of 30 years, might wear a black satir skirt made with flve gores and finishe with two narrow bias ruffies on the edge; coat basque of satin brocade in lavender, violet or silvery blue shades, with a coat skirt five inches deep, long revers and small sleeves. Vest of white silk overlaid with heavy lace, and high collar to match with a frill of soft lace at the back and In the wrists, the edges finished with a nar- row band of jet embroidery. A black silk dress with white silk or lace vest or yoke and collar and jet trimming would be an- other matronly toilet. —_——— The plan so long talked of for utilizing the wonderful power furnished by St Mary’s Falls, Michigan, has assumed definite shape, involving. of course, exca- vation on a vast scale, the dredging re- quired at the intake being for a channel some 18 feet deep, 400 feet wide and 2000 feet long. According to the design at present contemplated, the canal proper will be 200 feet wide and have a depth of 22 feet. In addition to the general work of dredging, there is a rock excavation of 4000 feet, an earth excavation of 7000 feet for the canal, the construction of timber bulkheads 2500 feet long, the build- ing of huge walls of masonry, an im- mense pile dock, branch railway, ete. —e——— Some of the colored people in Alabama try to cure themselves of rheumatism by sleeping with a young dog. hair. They age by several years a young woman's face and their effect on older women is little short of pathetic. The pompadour itself, softly and be- comingly arranged, is pretty and has a halo-like effect that is beautiful.