The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 25, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, » PRPEY OCTOBER PLAIDS AND FASHION ?’i.))ii"ii")?iii???!’i’)b.”’!’i’i?iiii’i’ii'?ib)ii)fi’t)i’,i)% SEPTEMBER 25, 189S. O LI L1 7%‘QQQQ(QQQQIQ-QQQQQQQQQQQQQQQ(Q(!QQQQ(Q RAAEEEEREEEEE R RS A S EGER R a trimming around the foot of the skirt. The fringe when used in this way is set an inch above the hem to avold fraying around the foot. Another way of using the plaid shawl is as a bias band around the bottom of the skirt. The shawl is spread out and care- fully cut crosswise in strips of about fif- teen inches wide. These strips are after- ward sewed around the foot of a plain cloth skirt and thus do duty ag bias folds. If the shawl is very large, th® remainder of it is made into a waist, using the fringe as a trimming for the revers and shoulder puffs. Evening dresses are even to be trimmed with shawls, but the enveloping plaid covering will not find its way into the drawing-room unless it be of very old and expensive silk. The plain silk shawls brilliancy of the reds and the greens which are employed in_their materials. RED WalsTs. TF“'O girls recently returned from a summer abroad have brought back some very stunning waists. Brick red cloth is the material used. Black The garment is cut like a shirt walst and made without iining, being kept in place at the waist by a fraw string. The sleeves should be plain and not full, but gathered into a cuff noi more than two inches wide and closed by a gold button. The tie must be made on the length- wise of the satin, with an interlining of crinoline, and is the same shape as the white pique Ascot ties, but seven inches wide. Cut the stock the same as the white stock, with buttonholes back and front. The belt is quite new, and consists of a.plece of satin twenty inches wide dou- bled, having the edges stitched. In the back the belt is pulled up almost to the shoulder blades, but in front is pulled as far down as possible and confined by o of a half century ago are used. They are satin Ascot ties made very wide and very a double gold or silver buckle not mors draped upon evening skirts in overskirt short, not more than ten inches below the than two inches in width. The waist is closed by fancy studs, each different from the others. The buckle, studs, and cuff-buttons must har- monize. A black serge skirt is to be worn with the walst, silk being quite ou@ of date. ° 0% 0000"00 00 —_————————— It is but seldom that a really good spe- cimen of the Damascus sword cari be ol tained, for the art of working and en- graving this kind of stcelsis dead. These Qo ~22290000000660080 9 H 2900, ; V‘” 200 : o Ooons 00> 800005000002 NOVELTIES Special to The Sunday Call. IN SLEEVES. [which fiares all the way around. heayvy AFTERNOON COSTUME FOR FALL It has and constant pinching—not hard pinching, stitchings and is something like a ing it would be a very risky experiment. © YORK. 93, e colla - The eyebrows may be improved by using but firm smoothing. I gave a special talk BW _TORK; Sept. 33— Please MediclsFoollar, tionly mot iquitelmojgtall 2 quinine wash made by mixing. five last Sunday on the treatment of black- mamma to-d ST BT TG LT T gralns of sulphate of quinine in one ounce he; which I presume, you saw. It IS lisped a little S e c e L R R of alcohol.- Apply this every other night almostimpossible to get rid of them with- to a visitor. make It pull on easily. and on the nights in between times mas- out using soap. Really, I think you need caller The larj sage very gently with the fingers dipped the advice of a competent physician. I °r the plaid in the coat the bet- olive oil. think the digestive and circulatory sys- e in_warm il gk & RS LTI el KITTY—Do lef me know if you were tems need a general overhauling. 1Tty SEL A ic looking for Ot Honr I oNee 18 e e are chosg finally successful with the cold cream. this lotion for massaging the hollow, bony an old plaid shawl that used to be grand- which ape o laroe ae By Bralds AT e LULU—The embrocation made of the places: Add equal parts of lanoline, ma's.” ; e hikh e T following ingredients Is very excellent for cocoanut ofl and cocoa butter. How- “The 1 B Tlaid rihons’ tamke very ty littl softening and whitening the hands: Al- ever, as long as your general health is The old: plaid. shawl that used to bei Flald ribbonsimake very Jauntyylittle mond oil, 3% ounces; cucumber juice, 2 not good, outward applications will be of grandma’s” will be very fashionable this Dats for fall. ' The zb R e na ounces; white wax, 2 drachms; sperma- little benefit. SmnY has a_tendency to winter. You will see it in so s e Tt Te ront O re SRt cetl, 1 ounce: oll of neroll, 10 drops. To make the tecth vellow, and charcoal and that you will s cely recognize it. and with its Joups proudly erect. The plaid get the cucumber juice press it out of all other gritty substances, if used fre- you will behold it decora re the enamel. The best utilized in all trimmings. d, trimmed and quently will In, manner and variety of in the ribbon is supposed to match the plaid in the jacket and thus the fall wo- 1 looks very much like a piece of nov- the fresh cucumbers. Heat this to a point just sufficlent to coagulate the albumin- ous matter and strain. Melt the wax and spermaceti over a water bath, add the base for tooth powders is prepared chalk. To thi you can add some powdered orris h gives it a pleasant flavor and “The old plald shawl that used to be Eoo0s a8 on salliox forthonithe Mot S b 1y . ol bt i i able effeet upon the gums, grandma’s” has been brought down from “for house waists are decldedly heat Now add the cucumber juice, also ANTOINERTETOL Couse, omiing the attic and hung in the breeze until all Some of them are flgurea. One slowly. Stir continually with a silver fl({:gfi"g “;w c;;z“\];;lhe;‘ e R eNouia the camphor smell blew out of it; it has ©f the prettiest was a very thin cloth spoon until cold. Then beat in the oil of 2! ake a creamy yellow liquid. If you ob- bee »ssed and shaken until th onses Plald figured with violets. The violets neroli. Rub this well into the hands at Mma P ihe B0 wnd oll, then. use the cn een pressed and shaken until the creases Loro slitrered all over the goods. An- night. If after using it several weeks Ject to Juice n this ress ine juice were out of it and the nap all restored; other was figured with small bunches of it has not helped you let me know cumber julce In this way. FPress ine julce it has been cut and se nd fashioned roses so that the plald goods was made BROWN EYES—The fat gnd OuLL0 3 bas to_the top. Skim Dilute it about until a white scum rise: this off and then stra one-third with rosewater, and a alcohol added to it will preserve it. of the oily substances when used in this very gay with the flowers. Plaid skirts are trimmed with bands of braid, but very seldom with ruffles. A plaid ruffle is always a bewildering thing and the fashion makers have just about into a new garment, such as will delight the heart of th ashionable woman who was so fortur s to possess a grand- ma, the whole season through. double chin can be reduced by dieting, exercise and proper massage. Smear the face and chin with cold cream, and then with the tips of the first finger and thumb little Many ¢ pinch the flesn. Be sure not to o o el s I is undeniably a plaid season; the abandoned the idea of using them. Plald By R e This systematic pleking el el spring_proved the fact that plalds are SKirte a7e treated to bands of black brald up and rolling of the flesh between the face but when used merely as an ingre- popular; and now for a month plaids will again hold sway In great brilllancy. he plaid season,” sald a very fingers will in time dissolve the tissu The result will be a sort of a flabbine of the skin which can be done away with by a weak alum solution. Put a bit of dient in a cream or lotion can be used with perfect safety. The wrinkles should .be massaged as illustrated in your dia- gram, only there should also be an arrow each. The clusters are brought closer and closer together as they approach the fash- " plain band trimming can be used fonable Paris dressmaker, *“is from April t alum the size of & bean in a pint of straight up through the middle of the 15 to Ju and from September 15 to LpoD % plald skirt and'pipines and bands M water, and apply with a picce of ab- forehead. For wrinkles in the forehead a November 1 red McKinley plaid can be banded with sorbent cotton after the massage. compress of new linen, soaked in a mix- It is frue that during the six wesks of “scariats ik Iihis imakésis Veryipretty MISS RAE CHAMERS—You will find ture of equal parts of alcohol and white the plaid n plalds are bro Skirt for fall and one that has a lovely your question answered in the foregoing of egg is quite beneficial. I know nothing d in the breeze. » about chloroform used for the purposé you mengion. Listerine, slightly diluted, is one of the best things I know of for that purpose, When one's nose is sensitive to changes of temperature it is usually a sign of weak circulation, which should be effect as the leaves are turning. In a little while it will be time for gray and green, but just now the plaids are holding thelr own. These plaid skirts are all lined with silk, or imitation silk, and are ruffled arounu Teply to Medusus. Also use the cold cream formula for_which is given in re- ply to Mrs. A. Raffet CONFIDENCE—Glycerine in_its pure state will very often cause the tiny hairs fo sprout. _ Electricty Is the only sure ts ar behold a {th\ straw toque, and house bodices plaided untii the Back View of Same Gown—Note the Fastening of the Skirt. you see wearer is a grand mixture of color. The favorite and the showlest bit of the v v dus cure’and ff would be utter folly to un- restored by tonics, massage or baths, or plaid wh one can wear in one's cos- :gov.f-g(;(lez‘li:lh\-%erl‘fi?medhuer;: E‘é'x“fie“;"“,‘fiff fashion and the shawl can be elther of dergo the mervous torture of the electric any method suggested by one’s physician. tume i€ the plaid vest, which for the next ° Red and blue hold their popularity in White, delicately embroidered in some Decdle to remove anything that is of so In the way of an outward applictaion six weeks es the place of the muslin plaid combinations and so do yellow and Contrasting color, or, as is often the case, little real account. 1if the little hairs are there is nothing better than ?‘iu:h hnfi_fl, shirt waist. The vest Is made sleeveless green. Any color is pretty in p{ald except it can be of pale bite, pale pink or palé very dark you can lighten them and so I presume this s the halr tonie vou refer with a silk back and a plaid cloth front. ywhite, which should be used sparingly. 8reen heavily worked with white. malke them less noticeable by putting a to: Fifteen grains of quinine dissolved in The back may be of taffeta and the froni " Bilk vests are considerably worn: but _The borders are embroidered in large little peroxide of hydrogen on them. It half a pint of alcohol. This is particularly of Scotch sulting. The buttons may be of are less fashionable than the cloth ones. Toses and finished with long silk fringe, ia owing to a lack of lime In the system good for hair that is very ofly. pearl and the linipg of the lapels of Later there come the chamols vests, and in the four corners of the shawl are That the nails spiit or are brittle. Rem- _ VIRGINIA, R. B. P ou, ght try bright silk. Which are made In such attractive styles great bunches of Sue e edy this by medical treatment. Some. this 1 o e i frenkicg ) e guny lald vest fits very tightly at the that one cannot tell the raped skillfully these shawls add muc ; Jes seoking them in warm olive ofl will borax; fiv s rose water; ams T D e T e O O s o Lo rhy 80, 2 and beatily: tokthio/ kown)iand sthey Correct Afterncon Gown, With Gamp and Panier Effect. s S upnose you try It. .The half orange flower water. But, as Treckles are trimmings for winter. the natural accompaniment of auburn hair, and as you have had yours so long, the fact nicest han . 'Its glory lies 1 snug, and the v The new plaids are many, but the most moon does not ~show on ‘evéry one’ popular ones are the Cuban and Dewey fingers, no matter how for down the flesh will be among the lom‘llnfi C evening dresses of fall an collar, combine with the black satin belts swords were made of alternate layers of & necessary to secure a good e ves s, Sewey plald s compose But for daylight wear plaids will be to give the distinctive style. fron and steel, so finely tempered that the way be pushed. I would advise you to I doubt if anything will remove them. I DTy S i his trant DIA0S ve wrem. and cantaloupe yeijow. used. Men will also dress considerably fn ' a5 1€ SGetinchve styie, - can blade would 'bend to the hilt without S to a manicure, who understands the I should let them alone 1t 1 were you which | ched to & white broad col- with a band of pomegranate red. The plaids this fall, _and for them there is the . " 0q Waist just as chi ‘hoes breaking. The weapons had edges 80 freatment of nails in the condition yours and not worry about them, =~Rubbing the lar. A plaid tie to match vest 1s green and vellow cross eack other in ever popular Scotch plaid and the Mc- 2 o ust as chic as thoSe jeen that no coat of mall could resist are in. After two or three treatments evebrows every other night with 'five o With this. and Into the tie are stuck broad stripes through which a pin stripe Kinley tweed, which has run a season or brought from abroad. A waist with tie them, and surfaces so highly polished you will be able to care for vour na grains of sulphate Infl qulrl\ ne ‘(hfisoz\hed numerous sporty little pins of various ae- of red runs. more. ,. and belt can be made for about §3. A that when a Moslem wished to rearrange | yourselt, I know of absolutely nothing in one ounce of alcohol, and on the other ', = The Cuban plaid is dagkes, being of The greatest latitude is allowed In men's yard and a “~'* of the material and a his turban he used his sword for a l00k- inat wiil make the lips thinner. Large nights massaging with pure olive ofl will The plaid coat is of vier grade of brown and purple with green running suitings, and it is surprising to see the yard of black satin will be sufficient. ing-glass. noses can be made smaller by persistent often bring a darker hue. t hangs loc front very through the brown. It Is a pretty plaid, Snglis coat, It though, and will be seen a great deal. is trimmed down the fri th large Th d plaid shawls make very excel- pearl buttons, which do not however, 40 IR R PRR IR PR F IR R E PRI R PR R IRRT IR PRI PP VNPV P IR R I VIR IR IR RN IR IR the real work. The coat is firmly hook- . 'Many persons prefer to use ed and the buttons are merely for orna- them for skirts as though there were less g y p-S ments. slaughter of an heirloom in cutting a skirt > + The popular new coat collar is one thana W The fringe is then used as @ b 3 H / [ * (i e M G e A v 7 $ 3 = 5 BY MME. HYGEIA, v %Q‘QQQ&QQQQtt‘,t((QQQQ“Q(QQ‘QQ'Q““Q( Q“(Q(Q((QQQQ(Q(QQQQQ!(QQ(Q& / - a This department is for the benefit if all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- ( .[—‘ ‘ ’: glene of proper living. If any cne desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- / <\t 1 T ‘ fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you pleacc and sign any / / HE! | name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, S8an Francsico. y w2 i & - ‘ And ears whose lobes have b ® lowl! , T s FEW words about the care of byt Jo* o r Pings “are most dishe. rewaided. Ifee] [bapeiied €3 say taid. oy i YA (1% the ears will not be amiss in uring. 80 many have written to me saying they L Y these beauty talks, for the size A perfect and healthy ear should be of had written before and were 80 bitterly THE VEST THAT WILL BE WORN THE NEXT SIX WEEKS. and shape of these affect the personal appearance to a great- er or less extent. The perfect ear should be about twice as long as broad, and should lie back close to the head. There are very few perfect ears. Although nature has much to do with the size and shape of the ear, mothers are largely to blame for the almost de- formed ear we continually see in young people. There is nothing that gives a lad so uncouth an appearance as wide, project- Ing ears, and yet, a little care in early youth will almost entirely remedy this defect. A simple bandage worn at night, which holds the ears flat to the head, is all that is necessary. The absence of bones and the soft cartilages make the ear a particularly easy member to train. Rrarely ever is an individual found whose two ears are exactly the same in shape, and so marked is the difference in some cases that when photographed it is aifficult to believe that the pair belonged to one individual. It is said that the right ear is an inheritance from the father or his family, while the left resembles the mother’'s ear or that of some of her fam- II‘, which accounts for the dissimilarity. 00 much cannot be said against the reprehensible habit which some mothers have of boxing their children's ears. ‘When this s resorted to concussion takes place, the power of which is often greater than the delicate membrane of the drum- head can resist, and it bursts. The mem- brane may heal, but the blow often af- fects the nerve, paralyzing it, which, in the end, may bring on permanent deat- ness. There is a certain portion of the child's anatomy, oh, ye mothers! that was especially designed by nature for the chastising hand or slipper of the irate parent, so let the blows fall there if fall they must, and so protect the delicate or- gan that was meant for other purposes than chastisement. If T had my way no child’s ears should ever be pierced. To my mind this is a relic of barbarism and nn¥ mutilation of the flesh is abominable. fercing, when clumsily performed, has been known In many cases to develop erysipelas and ab- scesses of a most dangerous character. a shell-like Plnkne!s. ‘When, however, they are continuously red, which may be the result of frequent pinchings or pull- ing or exposure to the cold, wash them morning and evening with a lotion made as follows: Alum (fowdered). 1 teaspoonful. Borax, 1 teaspoonful. Tincture of benzoin, 2 tablespoonfuls. Rosewater, 15 pint. When the ears are very pale in colér, with that wax like appearance which be- tokens Il health, bathe them frequently with alcohol or bay rum. ‘Women who are subject to eczema of the ear, which 18 not an uncommon afl- ment, should avold shell-fish and pork in every form. They should pin thelr faith to fruits and salads, particularly dande- llon and water cress. They should take frequent warm baths and be careful not to get chilled or overheated. For the fear: ful llchlnfi which often accompanies e zema of the ear a local application of 1 terine, diluted with water, will usually be found efficaclous. Never insert a sharp intrument of any kind into the ear for the purpose of clean- mf or scratching it, as they are llable to injure the delicate membrane and pro- duce permanent {ll results. No_liquid of any sort should ever be injected into the ear except by medical advice. In case of earache the only safe home remedy is a hot water bag, or a roasted onlon very hot, done up in flannel and applied on the outside of the ear. Regarding the care of the ear cleanli- ss is the first consideration. Many omen of otherwise scrupulously cleanly habits seem not to understand how to thoroughly wash and cleanse the ears of the accumulations of dust and cerumen. The pleasing whole of a well dressed, neat look| ns woman's a?enmnce is completeiy marred when one discovers the apparent neglect of this important little member, The best way to clean the ears is to use a little toflet utensil called an aurilave, which {s usually made of ivory or bone, and has a tiny apon{e covering its end. And now I want to say to my corre- spondents what I have said before. You must be patient. Your letters will not be slighted or neglected, but each one an- swetred fully in its turn. It is impossible to answer all the letters each week. I know it is disappointing to pick up the Sunday glper and not find your name among the answered letters, but try it again the next Sunday or the Sunday fol- dlsngpo(nled at not seeing their answers in that week's paper. The letters are all flled away in refuln.r order and as each one is reached it will be answered. To the many who have written to me and who hesitate to write again I wish to say I'm very glad if I have helped ou, and If there are nnf’ further cobwebs 0 be cleared away will be glad to have you come again. —_————— Answers to Correspondents. MEDUSUS—Take a daily tepid sponge bath and scrub the entire body twice a week with hot water and castile soap. Avold all rich and greasy foods and al- coholic stimulants, and so make good, strong muscles and pure blood, an ou will acquire a good, heal(h‘z complexion. If the eruptions are of the kind that come to a tiny white head, they must be care- fully opened with a fine needle and the contents gently pressed out. Then wash with listerine which has been diluted in three times as much bailed water. Arter using this for several nights mix a small pinch of borax with two tablespoonfuls of com]fne water and use for several nights, ALBION—Your first letter reache and was answered In its turn. I feel sure ou must have seen the answer in last undsg‘_s . MAB—The orange flower skin food, I feel sure, will help the wrinkles around your eyes. The Emporflnns are: Sperma- ceti, % ounce, white wax, % ounce; sweet almond ofl, 1 ounce; lanoline, 1 ounce; coconnut. ofl, 1 ounce; tincture of benzoin, 10 drops; orange flower water, 1 ounce. Melt the first five ingredients in a porce- lain kettle. Take from the fire and add the benzoin and the orange flower water, fluffing it with an egg beater until cold. Massage, of course, must Mco‘l:ndpa.ny its application. Don’t “rub as hard as you possibly can,” but hold the skin taut with the left hand and erase with the fore- finger of the right, rubbing gently wvut Mfix a firm, even pressure. eep this up for five or ten minutes. Rubbing with a plece of fine silk is sometimes beneficial. MRBS. A. RAFFETO—For the blotchy skin use a wash made of 1 ounce of ycerine, 1% ounce rosemary water and 15 rops of carbolic acid. Also use a cold srenm made from the following ingre- lents: Pure white wax, % ounce; sper- macet, 13 ounces; sweet almond ofl, I’ ounces; rosewater, ounce. My advice about the hair is to let it alone. Darken- 1 PLADS WILL BE WORN BY MEN THIS FALL