The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 7, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALIL, SUNDAT, AUGUST 7, 1898. A PLAIN HEAVY WHITE SATIN FOR A WIDOW EMERGING FROM MOURNING. lers at each side "o be exact, bewll- —more purest ribbon. Aines the outlay ek e beads Vauled . v 1 about Jewels ; tos. Do not expend n them to wear ound the with as e they without to exhibit h more fash- burde 1 A vour pearls or of the fashion- ELE WARD. FLOWERS ON SUNSBEDES. Special from Paris. 1 /& ANY sunshades are made of taf- f\v(\ fetas or mousseline de sole, / X!rimmed with ruches headed with ;, or trimmed with red mousseline de comet ribb bouillonnes of gatk Another novelty, even more recent- introdticed, is that of covering sun- hades with tufts of artificial flowers, or with branches of fruit trees. They are ornamented with long strawberry run- ners or branches of cherry with fruit and flowers. I doubt whether this fashion will take very well, for it makes the sun- shade very inconvenient to carry when closed. nestled knot. sleeves of watered 2 ve! r referred to rd in all colors and | eves. There I5 a| The sunshade mentioned above is of o e ar- | cream colored taffetas. h panel is trimmed a g the seams with a ruche wousseline de sole, which ap- | pears to meet in the center round an- other ruche which encircles the stick. The ce of each panel Is decorated milar ruche, which meets two tas. The sunshade th a athers of white taff is edged with a larger ruche of mousse- iine de sole. The ribs are covered with white silk. The stick is of white wood, duck's head in gold, with rubles with for a handle. e ruffle and affords | or ey with velvet. The ONSIDERING girls’ summer dres: | cs. a writer in Harper's Bazar says: “For church and party wear there 1s, of course, great latitude allowed, Zold buckle. | put for play and general every-day to wear natural flow- | wear very stmple little frocks are con- Iroidered flowers | yigered good style, and there scems to be Was embroidared | @ great wish to have everything as prac- h long, narrow ehives | tical as possible. Guimpe dresses are not In pale yellow. The | worn now by children older than 12, but lit lo ghow o vest of pink [ many of the dresses are trimmed to look S ¢ull length of the ey | as though they were worn with a guimpe, and they wers set off | having a_square ar a round yoke and a 1€ of most delicate green | wide ruffle, just as a guimpe dress is | fintshed around the neck and shoulders. The natural flowers worn by this young | Unless a girl is very tall for her age, e s santhe- | piain skirts look the best; but if she i ter fl um is (PN 1o skirt could have ruffies on it. d Ore SMINA | Shirt walsts are now part of every littie grow in grandmother’s garden. Thesc | girl's wardrobe, and certainly they look @sters were long and feathery and were | much better on children than they do on s of pale pink mull heing much narrower tiie head of each of magent It-{s qui €r8.to n Hpon_the w and “mag uptn- the it), | older women, who have the shirt waist habit to an alarming extent. It is a mis- take to have too elaborate shirt w. for children. The prettiest are realiy | very simple, and look best worn with w | ribbon around the throat ingtead of w | collar. A collar is stiff and old. The | | prettiest model has a little fullness on | 3 down into the belt, a i ized sleeves 1 with a narrow cuff to be enea . These shir | finisk with link butto! | are worn with 1 | and the best belt ribbon of some dar around the waist an bow."" DWEET LHVENDER; | HE very name ‘“sweet lavender” | calls up to the mind's eve the heavy, ironbound, carved oaken bridal chests whose piles of dainty linen grew un- | der the girlish twinkling fingers of our | dear great-grandmothe | castles of Spain. ways gathered fresh lavender a s of linen in- | creased, and packed it away in the white | folds, which were not complete without | the cl homely perfume. | “1ts odor is just as unobtrusively sweet and fresh and dainty for us as for our grandmothers. Like many another fad from the times of the minuet, lavender has come back | into fashion, though in the old English | homes it has never been out. It should be gathered when the purple | flowers are just out, before they begin to ) go_twlce | d tie in' front with u | the sun has shone on it long. Snip off the | knots of silk the same as the cotton is | to have it growing in your garden. Fifty | church and pastoral work. These she NEW FABRICS FOR EVENING > DRESSES fade and drop, and in the morning early. o flower’s perfume is most perfect after long stems, leaving the spikes covered with the tiny purple blossoms, and sew into thin bags while fresh. Make a double-lining of flowered or- gandie to fit your bureau drawer and tack it around the edges with silk floss. Slip the heads of Javender in between the lay- ers of organdie and hold it in place with | kept in place in a comforter. This is the time of year for gathering | lavender, and it can be bought on the | street corners if you are not so happy as | worth will make a large pad, whic keep its fragrance till the next sea- | s lavender is ready. | des the perfume value of the lav- | ender there is another vaiue which very | few people know. Moths or flees will have | nothing to do with it. If you scatter the flowers through the trunks of winter | clothing which you put away to keep from | the moths it will be quite as eficacious as tobacco or patent moth balls, and de- idedly more pleasant when you take the garments out in the autumn.” Furs, to.be quite secure, should be wrapped with lav- ender and sealed up airtight by pasting the paper Instead of tying it. —_————— RS. LYMAN ABBOTT. In the| July Ladies’ Home Journal, lays down eight Tules that are essen- tial to a minister's successful has the minister himself proclaim: 1. T must be always ready to call when invited. 2. Must catch at every straw of an er- rand to take me to one of my people. 3. Draw out from others their Interests rather than intrude my own, but always ume a common interest in the im- provement of the town. A DRESS STUDDED WITH CUT STEEL SUNBURSTS. THIS GIRL WEARS FLOWERS EMBROIDERED UPON HER VEST TO MATCH THE NATURAL ON 4. Never leave a house without having ES ON HER SHOULDERS. 7. Study especially the Master'’s way, something on which to hang another call.and try to carry his spirit with me. 5. Never meet a person with criticism or fault-finding. 8. Keep always in mind that it is my business to bring men to a consclousness 6. Prepare for calling as truly as forof God, and to an understanding of their preaching. relationship with him. feg=2=2=3=F=3=3-FoF=FoFagoRaFagegogegRugeFogegeFegegeFeFoF=FoFegagoFognta] bad o =3 =3 2 GOOD TEETH AND BERUTY. £ =3 L - e b= o BY MME HYGEIA 5 b= b= f=iefegeRoBegoeRoBeFoRuguRatuBaFeRaFaRuickFoRePuFuFaguFaFeRuFagaFaFadays] This department is for the benefit of all beauty seekers, and correspond- ence is cordlally invited. Questions will be answered in these columns. 8ign any name that you choose, and address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. EAUTIFUL teeth add greatly to)self? I will give you the most explicit a woman's attractiveness. A mouth full of irregular, unsightly teeth will detract from the most perfect loveliness in other re- spects, and many .a face otherwise plain and unprepossessing has been entirely re- deemed by a fine set of teeth. The most beautiful teeth and those which are best suited to the purposes for which they were designed are of medium size, and neither pearly white nor deeply tinted, but of a good, sound color be- tween the very white and ivory. The ex- terior of every tooth is divided Into crown and fang, the crown being the portion above the gum, the fang the portion be- low. The outside covering of the crown is a hard substance called enamel. In the interior of the tooth, surrounded by the dentine, or softer bone, js a cavity, which contalns the essential preservatives of the tooth. The utmost care and attention must be lven to the teeth in early youth. The ones, like other bones of the body, de- pend upon nutrition for health, and the teeth of a child who is insufficiently nourished will show early signs of de- fective structure and decay. A varlety of good food is necessary, and this should be thoroughly masticated. A lack of proper mastication is one of the most frujtful causes of indigestion. Hot meats and foods alternating with ice-cold drinks are most disastrous to the teeth. Among all civilized nations Americans are sald to have the worst teeth, and it i8 attributed to their indiscriminate use of hot and cold dishes and drinks. To preserve and properly care for the teeth, daily attention is necessary. The less dentrifice used the better. Some of the advertised nostrums will do just what | they claim to do—whiten the teeth; but | at the expense of the enamel, and will | cause sad havoc in the vital palts of the | teeth. So, avoid them. Also avoid soap dentrifices, as nearly all of them tend to make the teeth yellow. 1 think most people recognize the im- portance of cleaning the teeth daily, but they do not all of them realize that it is quite as necessary to clean them at night as in the morning. The fact is that a waxed silk thread should be run between the teeth of both jaws after every meal, in order to dislodge any particles of food which may have remained after eating, after which the mouth should be thor- oughly rinsed. The toothbrush should not be too stiff and the bristles should be of irregular lengths. Dip the brush in clear, tepid water into which two or three drops of tincture of myrrh have been mixed and brush the teeth upward and downward, | but never across. Myrrh is astringent and ul‘“i’lnz and sweetens the breath as nothing else will. Charcoal, pumice-stone and all other gritty subsiances if em- pl&:{ed will injure the enamel. e best base for tooth powders is pre- pared (not precipitated) chalk. To this add some powdered orris root, which glves it a pleasant flavor and has a favor- able effect on the gums. It is also useful to chew a bit of orris root, which Brown- ing says Florentine ladies love to use in mass time. A decayed tooth should have immediate attention, but never have it extracted if it {s possible to save it by treatment and fllling. There is nothing that will whiten the teeth so thorou%‘hly and give such a delightful taste in the mouth as a fresh strawberry, and from the time they ap- pear in the spring until they have said their good-by every woman should use one. Merely rub it over the teeth until it is entirely crushed, and then rinse the mouth with tepid water, so that none of the tiny seeds will get between the teeth, There is absolutely nothing more refresh- ing than this strawberry mouth wash, glever pick the teeth with a metallic substance and never under any circum- stances pick the teeth at the table. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. ROSE R.—I would advise you to get an ounce of alcohol, and in it dissolve five grains of quinine. Apply this to the eye- brows every otner night, and on the nights in between times massage very gently wth the fingers dipped in pure olive ofl. SADIE B.—You made a mistake. The article that you saw was not one of mine, but was from an Eastern correspondent to the paper, and the salesman referred to is in one of the shoe stores in the East. KITTY M.—I am 80 Sorry your cream was not a success. Your druggist did not use the proper proportions or else did not take the trouble to mix the ingredients properly. It takes great care and at least an hour's time to mix them properly. The cream should be as firm and white as the petal of & lly. M -c always is. Send me your address and six cents in | stamps and E_will send you a Ditue of mine to compare with yours, ¢ 4 then if you like it, why not try making it your- directions. GOLD ELSIE—The only way possible to regain the white neck Is to cease wear- ing high collars. They are responsible for mo:t of the yellow necks and so long as the cause continues the effect will re- main. Use this whitening wash every night: One-fourth ounce white rose leaves steeped in one-fourth pint each of fresh lemon juice and brandy for three hours. Press, strain and decant. Put on cold cream, too, whenever it is_conven- jent. Do write to me again after you have tried this treatment and let me know if it was successful. MRS. C. E. C.—Here Is a recipe for the very best cold cream that I know of: Pure white wax, % ounce. Spermaceti, 1% ounces. Sweet almond oll, 1% ounces. Rose water, % ounce. Take this only to a first-class drugglst, who will take the time and pains to mix the ingredients properly. Massage this well into the skin at night with the tips of the fingers; let remain ten or fifteen ninlnx:es and then wipe away with a soft cloth. A SUBSCRIBER—AImond meal, if pure, is most excellent for the skin and a nice way to use it is to put it into little cheesecloth bags, moisten thoroughly and rub over the skin. For the blackheads scrub the face each night with a camel’s hair face brush, pure castile soap and tepld water and use this lotion: One-half pint rose water, one-half pint orange wa- ter; add drop by drop one-half ounce simple tincture benzoin, six minims tinct- ure myrrh and a few drops of glycerine. Merely sponge the surface lightly with the lotion. F. F. F.—You probably are not perfect- Iy strong physically, which is the cause of your hair falling out. Anything that will strengthen the constitution is pretty sure to bring luxuriant locks. Why not try the old-time remedy of sage tea on the hair? It is a_splendid invigorator. Take a handful of the leaves and boil them into a tea. Add two tablespoon- fuls of alcohol to the quart and use asyou would any tonic, applylng it to the roots of the halr just before going to bed at night. Once. a week is_altogether too often to wash the hair. Once every threa or four weeks is better, unless the hair 1s excessively oily, in which case once in two weeks iS quite often enough. FLORENCE SYLVIA THOMPSON-—F. F. F. also asked about falling hair. Read what I have just said to her. ZELLA DREW-—Taraxacum has the effect of cleansing the system of bile or impurities secreted by the liver. The or- dinary dose is a three-grain pill, which is taken twlice a day as long as the sys- tem seems to require it. or the com- plaint that you mention you might try zinc ointment. It is usually efficacious in that trouble. As I have said before in these columns, I do not prescribe for dis- ease or complaints, and think that medi- cine should not be taken unless pre- scribed by one's own particular physi- clan. I can't advise you concernln§ the advertised article you mention, as I know absolutely nothing as to its merits. I do not believe that superfluous hair can be permanently removed by the use of a depilatory. If 1 were you, I should sim- ply rub prepared chalk on the tiny hairs Pha Pluck them out. It is the only safe process of removing them. L. I. G.—I do not_think the .cocoanut ofl ‘wiil have the effect that you fear. Oils do stimulate the growth of hair where it is inclined to grow, but as it does not usually show a tendency to grow on the neck and shoulders, I do not be- lieve that the ofl will develop it. You might try milk baths for the neck and shoulders, or massage them with pure cream. The exercise, if not indulged in too violently, should be developing and strengthening to the muscles and round out hollows. ET‘!P{eE[rP]ense read answer to F. F. F. Tn addition to what I have told her to do, brush the hair frequently and keep the ends well clipped. Also every few days give the hair a good sunning and airing. ‘ROSE—Soaking the hands and feet in very hot water will often take the color A om the face, av'z_}nglf‘gx_m The Call of J“‘ty 24 I gave tull directions to Birdie Y. Z. for develop= ment of the bust. If you did not see it or cannot get a paper write to me again. To make the hair grow apply this tonic to the scalp every night; Oil of sweet almonds, 30 grammes; essence of rose- mary, 30 grammes; ofl of mace, 1 gramme. While using the tonic wash the hair once a week with pure castile soap. TOLETA—I have always understood that corn flowers, bluets and bachelor puttons were very much the same thing. Some call them one(n;-gesg;::hfl‘lfiu::gg; o Btechen) Th one pint of water for twelve (bruised) in one pin . in and still. The liquid thus D iimed can be used without injury to es. But if you prefer other treat- ;r)!‘:nfytry bathing the eyes in warm borax water and then amointing the lids with fine white vaseline.