The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 3, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 3, 189S. have more sailor blouses this season than we have seen for many moons. The more nautical your bathing suit the more fash- fonable will you be. All ts end just above the knees thiy year if you are wise you will nov let your patriotic feeling keep you from wearing the French skirt, which cons! of a narrow front width, two narrow widths and the back in two pieces with ame, because it is really Ameri- can made, but I assure you that you cam find nothing prettier or more serviceablis for a bathing skirt. Striped hing suits will be stylish this summer, whether in silk or flannel; ana these are inexpensive, while braided or- naments expensive ar suit being utilized for the mosu Sometimes the braid is used on piain silk, but the latest suits are of unpsually claborate materials. Embroidred effects are more in favor than ever and they are of the most ex- pensive and intricate kind. inly the gown without a yoke {s an . and rev are almost if nos as popular. They are cut in every ible shape. Most small revers on either side of the yoke ov he most popular sult co: e and revers. suits are more at- They are designed in embroidered in an- c things which e skirt and collar. It f '98 does not look pret- before it will be her own fault. For a light serviceable suit and one that will brave the crush of many breakers, = 15 the indestructible black stik. It but narrow haircloth which has been sund the edge antl a light per- ilk lining one Ias a sult which with a rth more than welght in ne of its greatest virtues is its ch S been said about the of heavy bathing its show that a light healthful results some black, some ew red, proclalm them- suited 'to the graceful wn ¥ou to see a charming i flannel suit, slightly hort puffs over the shoui- llar extends over the sleeves it 15 siightly bloused, with ront laced In 'white r {s finished In_plain blue ther made In black uncrush- ik shows the possibilities of smart- in a hig ked yoie of pale blue. ntire skirt s xvrellflr trimmed in Ik braid. The lapels of this cuit ed with braided decoration, so original material is only slightly From Fashion's standpoint this is a very desirable suit. Brilliantine and alpaca are used more tran any other materials for the best B, Sk is used not only for the L3 but for entire suits, and the -time favorites, serge and flannel, are » il in evidence. A tallor finish is given { the higk priced garments shown in « shops, and refitting makes them quite satisfactory as if they were made to bathing suj v silk e is a declded novelty, not st T r v in but design. Of royal Y e it is pretty trimmed with white silk pentine braid. The braid is applied on he skirt in pointed design. The bolero shows several rows, which are again seen on the sleeves and belt. The bolero is very jaunty and curves away from a full striking iesirabie T ’ vest, which falls into a slight blouse. This style is particularly becoming to slender figures. Another blue is also of bright shade, but the material is brillian- tine trimmed with bands of white, feath- er-stitched with blue silk floss. The skirt is short and full and i{s made separate, being fastened on a white feather- stitched belt. The full sailor blouse and bloomers are together. The blouse has a large white sallor collar, feather-stitched in blue, which opens into a low V-shape in the front. This can be fllled in with an adjustable plastron, which matches the collar in color and decoration. The sleeves are short and puffed. Both of the styles are duplicated in white. One trimmed with bands of pale blue is especially pretty. Red enters in- to the combination of another white suit, and the brilliant touch of color is charm- ing. Still another white suit has a touch of black to relieve it. Quite as pretty as any of the others, even 1if it is not so gay, is the costume of all white, made of white brilllantine. The material has a creamy tint and is trimmed with a braid of silk cord. Dark blue or black silk stockings are in better taste than the white ones originally intended for this costume. A striking bathing sult is of red and black alpaca. The red is barred on in stitched bands and brightens the blouse in V-shape from neck to waist. The broad sallor collar is of red, which is again seen in a band on the skirt. A black serge {8 made elaborate by numberless rows of fine white braid. In a suit of white serge the colors are reversed though the style is duplicated. A crimson brilliantine is quite up to the fashionable standard of bright colors. White silk braid relieves the red and makes a pretty combination. Maroon serge Is another relief to the all-pervad- ing blues. Black or white braid in nar- row lines is used for the trimming. Many of the blue bathing suits have the national colors blended into harmo- nious trimmings. Sometimes the colors are the braids, and again silk floss er brojders in the gay tones. These tumes enable the summer girl to carry her patriotism to the seashore. The silk costumes are very Frenchy. The skirts are short and full and the bloomers rather scant. They are fitted in to be worn with a corset. Wonderfully chic, they will be prettier for the beach promenade than for actual contact with the breakers. The brilliantines and fine alpacas are not only pretty, but stand the test of the salt water admirably. Be- ing a trifle wiry, they do not cling to the figure so closely as the silk garments do, and, again, they shed the water. The American women are better dressed on the beach than the women of other nationalities. They combine a touch of the chicness of their French sisters with thelr own more conservative ideas. ege=egeg=g-F-qeReR-2eF-F-F-F-F-FoFuF=-F-FoFeFegeFeFeFeFeR=FeFeFegagad feg=gegugeFegeFegaRugeal Bl How to Enhance 3 THE HANDS: and Preserve Their Beauty. 2 b= By Mme. Hygela. ped $egegaFeg-FogoRegaFoFogageReg Re-RogoFoFoFoReFoFeFoFR:F 22334 This department is for the benefit of all beauty seekers, and corre- spondence is cordially invited. Any questions pertaining to cosmetics or the proper mode of living will be cheerfully answered in these columns. Sign any name ycu please, and address all communications to Mme. Hy- geia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco: who beholds her hand, forgets her WHITE shapely hand is a great attraction, and, more than any other member perhaps, pro- claims gentility and refinement. Many a woman, plain and unprepossess- ing of feature has held the destiny of men in her soft, pretty hands. In all ages courtiers and lovers have bent the knee and bowed the head to kiss the hands of ladles fair, for there Is nw greater mark of homage and respect than this kiss upon the hand. In olden times there was a common su- perstition, and it 1s shared by many In the present day and generation, that the character and destiny of the individual can be read In the Ilnes of the hand by those who are familiar with their signifi- catlon. The hand Is also one of the greatest vehicles of expression, for the whole ga- mut of human emotion can be expressed through its agency. Quintilian says, ““Other parts of the body assist the speaker, but these speai themselves, ise, we invoke, we dismiss, we threaten, we entreat, we deprecate, We express fear, joy, grief, our doubts, our assent, our penitence; we show moderation, pro- fusion; we mark number and time.” ‘With patience the hand may be educated to almost any art or grace. So whatever time and copsideration we give to this most useful and important member will not be wasted. First of all, learn to control your hands, Overcome the restless and unmeaning habit of fingering chains and ornaments, of twisting the fingers, and of playing with a handkerchief, when talking. Cultivate repose. All hands are not equally symmetrical, and very few persons are born with ex- quisitely graceful and refined hands. Much can be done, however, to enhance and preserve their comelilness. and the la- g y i i i it i | I"”""I“mmumnmm it By them we ask, we prom- : '!umilmii::fum*rmumsii il | ber is well worth every woman's while. First in importance is a good soap, and a pure white castile s about the best. Wash the hands in soft, tepiu soapsuds. Be sure and wipe them thoroughly and, at least once a day after washing gen- tly locsen and push back the skin at the base of the nall, which, if not attended to daily, will attach itself to the nail and grow up with it. After some time it will crack and become sore, leaving the nalil weak and unsightly. Frequent cutting of the skin at the root of the nall will make it tough and hard. ‘When through neglect this skin has grown up on the nall so as to entirely cover the “‘half moon,” secure if possible the services of an experienced manicure. After the nails have been once thor- oughly doctored it is quite an easy mat- ter for each woman to become a physi- Tlan to her own nails and to prevent this sklll'n from adhering again to the growing nail. Do not cut the nall, but flle it from side to side, rounding it to exactly the shape of the tip of the finger and not letting it extend beyond the tip further than is necessary as an actual protection to the finger itself. If you desire the nails to present a deli- cate pink surface, like the inner polish of an exquisitely tinted seashell, see that the articles of your manicure set contain a box of pink nail powder and another of nail cosmetic. Apply a littic of this lat- ter to the nail and rub vigorously with your chamois polisher, which has been dipped in the pink nail powder. Wash this off carefully and polish again, with another polisher, and the result will be what you desire. ‘Wash the hands always in soft water, if possible. A very nlce powder with which to soften the water when too hard, and which is also whitening In its effects, can be made by mixing together three ounces of fine ground oatmeal, three ounces of fine almond meal and half an ounce of borax. Put a tablespoonful in the basin of water before using. For hands that are rough and red this i mwuu I i W cream will be found delightful: Cocoa butter, oll of sweet almonds and refined white wax—equal parts. out even so much as one little speck of dirt to mar thelr immaculateness, or the hand, however white and beautiful, will lose all its charm. 3 Keep the nalls scrupulously clean, withe IRVING DEFIED STAGE SUPERSTITION. F all superstitious folks the men and women of the stage take more cognizance of omens, good or bad, than any other class. The latest and most talked of in- stance of ill luck following an actor touches the eminent Irving, first of the sock and buskin to be kni; ed in two centuries. After occupying a seemingly impregna- Dle position at the head of the London dramatic world for a score of years he is now said to be succumbing to his ambi- tlous rivals. His last season has been a succe: of magnificent failures. On the heels of this comes word that Mis Ellen Terry, whose name has been in- parably connected with Irving's suc- , is.about to go over to the enemy. . other influences are said to be at work to dim the future of the man who has done more than any other living actor, perhaps, to lift the drama to the high position it holds among the arts. The enemy in this case seems to be Beerbohm Tree. For years he has been the adroit manager of the London Hay- market and later of Her Majesty’s Thea- ter. He is an actor who is a master of the art of make up and character im- personation, although he has never equaled Sir Henry in the genivs of the- atrical production. Now here enters the Irving bogeyman. Irving was christened John Broadrib. On the stage he nas ever been known as Henry Irving. A few years ago he de- cived to have his name legally changed to _Henry Irving. Soon the attendance at the London Lyceum, which had been the most brilliant in the EngMsh capi- tal, dwindled to a scattered few. Then stage folks said: ‘‘Well, he ought to have known that he’d hoodoo himself if he changed his name.” But Irving defied the superstition. Then in recognition of his genius Queen Vic- toria accorded him the high honor of knighthood, and made him Sir Heury Ir- ving. During the two years that hav elapsed since then a series of misfortunes, not great when reckoned sepa: ely, but formidable in the aggregate, have be him. He alienated the corps of Englisn . whose praise had been- his stand- by. The press became apathetic. An cident wh he suffered during the re- hearsals of “‘Peter the Great necessitated e tponement of that production for One after the other “Cymbeline,” ‘“Mme, Sans Gene” and “‘Peter the Great” all but failed before London audiences. The hoo- doo was beginning to lay its fell spell, but more was to come, A astrous fire to- tally ruined the elaborate scenery and ertics of the few repertoire plays had been successful. Meanwhile ohm Tree's production of ‘Juliug r’" at Her Majesty's Theater became sensation in I [ at is quite different from chan it afterward. Thus Maurice Kiine deemes “Barrymore” more euphonious and adopt- e t. Clara Morrison dropped the two last letters of her name when she went on Jennie Griffiths became Jennle Joseph Arthur, who wrote ns,” was christened Arthur F. Smith. Kate Cone became Kate Cls ton. Laura Joyce Bell was a Miss M kell. Mme. Janauschek js otherwise Mrs Fred Pillot. Mary Alice Hogan became Alice Atherton. Mr. Kendal's name was originall, V. H. Grimstone, and Mrs. Kendal known as Madge Robertson. Louis Aldrich was Louis Moses. Marie Jansen w Mary Johnstone. Marion Ma- nola w; Miss Stevens before she be- came Jack Mason's wife.. Sadié Marti- not's patronymic Minnie Mad- dern was a Miss Davy. ‘Pauline Hall dropped her family name of Schmittgall. Clara Poole became Mme. Polini; Lily Langtry and Lillian Leonard-Solomon- Perugini et al. have had divers ‘applica- tion: rerhaps the most widely known and deeply respected superstitions are those about the bad luck consequent upon rai ing an umbrella in the theater, and on the stage actors and stage managers in- bly thwart the.author's purpose if is any such “business” in a play. cock feathers are a fierce and dead- hoodoo. Indeed, the fire in the Fift venue Theater a few years ago was di~ rectly attributed to the use of peacock- feather fans in Fanny Davenport's pro- duction of ‘Cleopatra.” Light blue scenery, costumes, - uphol- I stery, etc., used to be tabooed, and if the first person who enters a new theater is a deadhead the place is under a spéll at once. If a leading man encounters a cross-eyed individual at the stage door he has hard work to square himself with his fellows who hear of it. For genera- tions it has.been forbidden to hum or Whistle TLocke's Ingidental music to “Macbeth” behind the Scenes at any time. No actor is permitted to bring a yellow trunk into a theater. Yellow cats bring hard luck. “Black cats are hospitably re- ceived'in ‘‘front of the "house.” When Harry Mifter opened his last theater a cat ran-out and some one scared it fur- ther away. Hatless and coatless ‘Miner dashed out of the lobby and pursued the cat till he caught her.” Then he stormed at the ignoramus who would drive a black cat out of a new.playhouse. It is:“bad luck” to say the “tag” at a rehearsal; to pass a blind beggar and not throw him ‘a coin; to’fall to touch. a hunchback when within range; to sleep in room 13 at any hotel; to sleep ‘head to the engine’ on sleeping cars; and dozens of other more or less trivial things. * The worst, howev Js to change one's name, as Irving did. * —_———— GOIN' BACK TO JANE. EEN thinkin' fer a month er two o' goin’ back again . 3 An’ axin’ Jane ef she'Hl forgive the ol'mistakes 'an’ pain. = Not that she ain’t to blame—but nights an’ days'are mighty long 'Thout nary word o' -woman's love an' hary. baby song. : While passin’ by the little farm not long ago I seed The place looked lonesomer, it seemed, than they ‘wus any need, ‘With April smilin’ ever'where—the honey- bees a-boom, The apple trees all green like, an’ the hollyhawks In bloom. What made it wuss, our little boy wus settin’ in the door, An’ never seemed to know me more'n some one not seed before; “An’ ef he's done fergot” I thought, “supposin’- that he dies, He would not know me should I find my home beyond the skies.” An’-then big tears come blindin’ me, as I lgoked back to learn That temper in most married lives kills that fer which we yearn; An’ I'm convinced it's much our fault ef joy don’t come along— in’, we might ‘see the rese, an® enin’, hear the song. n T. Hale, in Cincinnati Enquirer. R — ELECTRIC - FANS IN CHURCH. We observe that the members of a church in Baltimore have determined to put in electric fans. This is an innova- tionr which will be shocking to many very devout people, but it seemsgto us that it is a most sensible thing to do. People in olden times had an idea that any sort of an old barn with all sorts of discomforts world do for a place of worship. Indeed, there were those who contended that tha building itself ought to be as little at- tractive as possible, because men and womren should go to church for spiritual edification only, and that that was to be obtained regardless of surroundings; that it was a confession of weakness of the spirit to say that physical appurtenances were necessary to religious edification. But men have become more sensible in this age. The body and the mind and the spirit are so closely woven together, and the body Itself is so strong and assertive that it has been found that complacency of the physical man is quite necessary to complacency of mind. and spirit _Reli- gion {s largely’ sentimental, and that which appeals to the -esthetic nature helps along’ the religious feeling. There can be no doubt of the fact that attrac- tive surroundings and comforts do help one to enjoy religious exercises. ‘It is im- possible for one to be filled with the warmth of spirit when his physical self is shivering in a cold churct, and it is equally impossible for one to ‘awake his soul' to all righteousness when in an at- mosphere .of drowsiness, We are but dust, and our plety needs all the help possible. It seems to us that electric fans are as sensible In summer as a. furnace in winter. — Richmond Times, By I will ‘ e Wl i 4 i i i “! i i Ir [| l i il i I i”?!}mih il i i