The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 5, 1898, Page 28

WORKING ON BANDAGES INSTEAD OF GOWNS. the Hands of Patriotic Throughout the Parlors, Clubs and Farm Homes of the Needle Now In Women, old s fairly abound. lives in one of the hotels and her own private telephone, has placed ngside it a small an wishing to use the telephone can do so by dropping a nickel in the box “for the ben- efit of the Red Cross. At some of the boarding schools out of e city novel methods of raising money been adopted. At one of th sco girl pays her roommate 1 week to ake her bed for her. Iso brush each other's hair, dan the sum of 10 cents, 3 d to add to the s at the ferry have been untir- ir efforts to comfort and feed ousands of boys who have _come from alil ov the United States. Rising almost at daybreak, hard at work all many of them scarcely findin an opportunity to rest, they still work on without a ‘murmur. _ There is scarcely a day that does not bring forth some new project or enter- tainment to be given t E tainment to be given to help along the The Misses Irene and Hattie Tay, to- with a number of their girl have busied themselves making soldlers. busy in the great work. tion there is none—all on footing. But one im- ¢ heart of every woman ive of her store as gen- n, whether it be what 0 or her purse afford. THE MILITARY GIRL Is THE GIRL OF THE HOUR. HE girl of the moment, an athletic maid two short months - ago, has changed with the times and become The rdly know h ge military. ! men she "goes with Even her clothes, her skirts, her hats and her waists have the spirit of the army—or the navy—in them these days, her walk is modeled upon marching and her vocabulary of ng and topical expression has been re- d until two sentences out of three hang upon martial terms. In fact, to be armylike is the fad of the moment, and the girl of the sets has taken up this new idea with immense enthu- siasm. She carries it out surprisingly well, too. Very nearly everything she does has a military twist to it, and she has the cleverness to put just a little of her own personality into each movement or speech, so that the effect is piquant, graceful and odd. Thus, with a bound the military girl has sprung into fashion. One of her ways is the temporary abolition of the kiss—so far as other girls are concerned. Meeting her dearest friend, she salutes in a true She does not grab her or re- You dear thing!” The arms of both girls are raised promptly to their hats and then shoved out with a quick movement. Then they are dropped to their sides, and stay there. The walk of the military girl is marked by a firm step forward, a rather longer step than usual, and the shoulders are held well back, the head steadily up, with the eyes looking straight forward, and the chest is thrown well out. This new type THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, form nowadays, “I'm going aloft,” or “I'm going below. ; Betaking one’s self to one's downy couch is expressed by the. words, going to turn in,” and on the street, when two, three or four girls are walking to- gether, there are often to be heard these words of command, “Right about facel and ““Forward, march! Such are a tew of the military expres- sions of the hour among girls—those that are, perhaps, the most common. There are scores of others. and with her visits to the camps near New York and her con- stant study of war matters this military vocabulary of girldom is being added to at a rapid rate weekly. The girl who has naval associations adds to these a bunch of terms of the sea and the battle-ships that give her conversation even more pic- turesqueness and novelty. Yet walk and talk a la militaire are, after all, but two sides of the new mili- tary girl. All her costume this summer have a flavor of the army and the av nThe shops are selling now, for the par- ticular benefit of this girl, what is known as “army and navy” cloth. It is a lighter shade of blue than has hitherto been the fashion—a thin material much like ‘a serge and supposed to be just the color of the army and navy uniforms. This prom- ises to be the dress material of dress ma- terials this summer, and is already much ter. soafi}:teras! caps and army service hats are the headgear that is held in greater affection than any other, and a girl who Teally enters into the spirit of the day and the hour wears white cord about her neck with the accompanying whistle. This is considered a very smart and effective ch. m”rak:e}»guare army and navy umbrellas for these military girls as well. These um- brellas have handles made in precise imi- tation of a small sword handle. An even smarter thing is to have an umbrella handle of a real sword. Not many girls are as fortunate as that, however, ST TR, GREAT OPPORTUNITY For the AMERICAN DRESSMAKER PET theory concerning women Is A fall before the batteries of fact. The sex is supposed by its detrac- tors to place dress before every V] verhear femini; conversa- ot o e the scasons of spring and autumn shopping find ample material for receiving such a shock that it must other consideration in life, and perhaps their indiscriminate conclusfeus. Above SUNDAY, JUN stands in our finest harbor, and we have been in the habit of planning trips to Paris as often as convenience permitted, until we no longer repudiated such an ex- pressions as ‘“‘All good Americans hope to_go to Parfs when they die.” One day our wondering eves read in the newspnPers preposterous hints about the possibility of France withdrawing her loy- alty to America, and we discreditea the rumors, classing them'among many firri- tating and worthless reports. But it is, las! too true. Because of jealousy or for ancial reasons France has seriously nxz;m red sotto voce, A bas les Ameri- cain smerican women living in Paris write indignant letters on the subject, com- plaining of spiteful treatment in shops and elsewhere; and, if not detained by business, they move away from their un- comfortable surroundings. Women who spend large sums yearly in Paris, whether crossing the ocean them- selves or sending the orders to those dressmakers who have their measure, at last became indignant. The relation between the Paris creaior of confections and the American woman is as intimate as that between Wall street and the Stock Exchange, and.in the past has been as interdependent. But if France prefers to favor Spain because she floats her bonds we can certainly dispense with her millinery. The dressmakers of Paris have relied upon American custom for the prosperity of their houses, and now are making clamorous protes against the withdrawal of their fair customers. Paris houses prefer American custom to any other, for Americans spend gener- ously, are honest and prompt in payments and, more than all, wear their clothing with a grace and style seen on no other women in the world except the Parisienne or the Viennese. We have universally good taste, and, notwithstanding all that is said to the contrary, our women of the high world dress with appropriateness. It cannot be that these talents are imported. We may import the clothing, but the Zift of wearing it must be innate. 2 Modes are composed in Paris by an in- tricate process, which has placed the originator in a position as closely allied to art as is that of other decorators. In the atelier of the composer are stuffs and laces, old and new, in infinite coloring and texture. Books of costumes, pictur- ing drapery and dress from the earliest ages to the present day, are close at hand from which to draw suggestions. Be- sides this there are alw public events occurring, the picturesqg side of which can be reflected in modes. These things furnish the inspiration which creates the styles, which are imitated with more or less fidelity throughout the civilized world. The question arises, Can we not do this work as well iIn America? Now, it seems to me, is_the grand opportunity for American_dresmaskers to assert them- selves. They have hitherto been forced 29 fifinufiflflfiflflflfififififiannfififlfifififififififlfifilfififi 3% o e =3 k=3 £ =3 k=3 HERE is probably nothing that can cause the summer girl more unhappiness and mortification of Epirit than a freckled face. Were each one of those little golden spots a Klondyke nugget, I doubt if it would console her for having to march through life with a face speckled like a guinea hen's eggs. Before I give the recipes promised last Sunday, let me say that there are two kinds of freckles—summer or ‘“sun freckles” and winter or ‘“cold freckles.” The first are ephemeral, the second chronic. If the recipe given in last Sun- day’s Call was not satisfactory, and glycerine, I know, does not agree with all skins—then try the.following: Fresh lemon juice. Rosewater. Rectified spirit. Equal parts. Mix together and the next day decant the clear portion and strain through mus- lin. Bathe the face with it night and morning, wiping the face afterward with a soft towel. Or this: Sal-ammoniac (powdered) 1 drachm. 3 Distilled wmenpl pint. . 3 © Eau de Cologne, 2 fluid drachms. o & Mix and apply with a rag, night & & and morning. o In some cases these little brown spots are very persistent and resist all efforts to remove them, as long as the skin _con- tinues to be exposed to the sun. Keep out of the sun, girls, If you are afflicted in this way, or else wear a chiffon veil when courting its rays. The other variety; known as “cold freckles,” come from disordered health or some disturbance of the natural func- ”("!nhs of the skin and are less easy to deal with. Now, then, girls, how many of you take a daily sponge bath? There is nothing 1 can prescribe that will assist you so ma- terfally in the attainment of a fine com- Liexion as baths, and plenty of them. They are the greatest cosmetic in the world. Addison says: ‘“‘Beauty commonly pr duces love; but cleanliness preserves it. And to my mind, cleanliness comes before odliness. 1 do not mean that I think it iseounts in its results physically the practice of all the virtues, but I do think _\'lvudha\'e to be clean before you can be good. You must, in order to malntain perfect health, without which no one can be beautiful, keep the pores of the skin thoroughly clean. This cannot be accom- plished by an occasional scrub, but must COrPLEXIONS FOR THE SUTTMIER GIRL =3-3-3-3-3-3-3-3-2-F-3-3-3-3- 13- B-0-2-2-2-8-2-3-3-2-3-F-3-3-3 -3 -] feRaReRaRaqule] be attended to every day. Allowing the pores to become clogged gives rise t skin diseases and bad blood. As to the temperature of the bath, n¢ one—not even oge's physician—can pre: scribe; it should be governed entirely by the constitution of the individual. Cold plunge baths as a rule can__ b¢ taken only by the most vigorous. They should never be indulged in unless fol lowed by a rush of blood to the surface For a F of delicate physique t¢ take cold baths .would mean certain sui- cide, and physicians say that the shock to the system occasioned by the col¢ plunge has been the cause of many 1 case of heart disease. An ordiparily strong person can stand a sponging off in cold water each morn: ing, and that is said to be invigorating and a preventive against taking cold However, a tepid onge is more likely i0 agree with every one—a daily tepi¢ spouge and a hot, soapy bath twice & week. Hot baths are not enervating unless one remains too long in_the water. The way to get the best result from this bath is to be in it a few moments just long enough for the heat to thor oughly open the pores and the water t¢ soften the dead tissues. Then take % flesh brush and with it scrub soap al over the body. Remain a few minutes longer and then, if you wish to be par ticularly luxurious,” fill a basin witl water about the temperature of the body and Into it pour a few drops of oll of lavender. Sponge the body off witk this, before drying thoroughly with & crash towel. The delightful feeling thai one experiences after this bath cannot be described. As to the face, apply water as seldom as possible. How, then, can I keep clean? I hear you ask. By cleansing it with a good cold cream to be sure, such as I gave you a recipe foi last week. Rub this thoroughly into the skin with the tips of the fingers until th¢ skin has absorbed all that it will. Let i remain ten or fifteen minutes and thex remove with a soft cloth, and you will bt surprised at the quantity of dirt that wil come off with it. If you feel that you must use soap and water, then use distilied water as near thy temperature of the body as possible, ané only the very best quality of olive ol soap. Most spring water contains more or less chalky and other substances, earthy an¢ alkaline salts, which, combined with the stearic or fatty acid of soap, is ruinous to almost any complexion. So, start in, girls, and spend some of your spare time scrubbing yourselves, It may seem like slaver but it really i1 emancipation—from oily skins and pim- ples and most of “the other ills that fleak is heir to.” MME. HYGEIA. into copying, although perfectly capable of DrlFlnaling. Some of our highest class American dressmakers have composed exquisite creations for their customers, but have never succeeded as they should, because the indispensable mark of Paris was missing. Ndw, what is this magic mark? It is the approval given to the compositions of the masters by their adoption by a cer- tain class of women in Paris, and this not a desirable class. One immense ad- vantage the originator of modes in Amer- ica would have is this, that here the cachet is given by the women highest in social position. We have ample oppor- tunity in New York life for setting the mode. The races of the Grand Prix in Paris indicate the fashions for the entire year following. The note of color and the mold of form is then set, and from this proceed innumerable variations. Surely our annual horse show in New York would give similar _opportunity on this side of the water. It does so now, with this exception, that the modes are all imported. It would be very difficult to say why all the world copies Paris fashions. If any one thinks the styles which emanate from that place are artistic or based on lines of enduring beauty, let him pick up a fashion magazine half a dozen years old and note the ugliness in form and color that is never apparent when the mode is at its height. Surely we in America could make no worse color com- binations than those which have dazzled the eyes in the department of millinery during the present season. One of our New York women, promi- nent in both social and philanthropic movements, has set out to unite the women of this country in a boycott of French milliners and dressmakers. Her name carries influence and she will have many followers. This should delight the heart of the American dressmaker and ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. AROLINE P.—Your woolen gown of the new intense blue, known as national blue, is capable of many effective results in the way of combination with other col- ors. Do not use another blue, 85 you mention, for vest, collar and revers, as any other color other than a shade of itselt is in better style this season. A very vivid shade of green showing golden lights is one of the newest ideas in combination with this blue, and a pinkish hellotrdpe is very smart if the color is becoming; white, too, is used on the deep blue summer gowns. Would make a chemisette having the tucks running crosswise about an eighth of an inch in width, and spaced once and a hall their width. Tuck it until the line of the bust has been passed, and from there allow it to blouse to the walst line, where it must be held quite firm. Tuck stand- ing collar and revers to match. Elizabeth Browne.—To make an old black summer serge gown look like new, first rip carefully. Take ten cents’ worth of soap bark (which can be bought at any drug store) and soak over night In two quarts of boiling water. Next morning strain well and add a galion of botling water, ailowing It too cool sufficiently to bear the hands In washing. Take the dress goods, one width at a time, and wash by squeezing it in the hands and swishing it in and out of the water. Do mot rub it or the edges will stretch out of shape. Rinse lightly in clear water the same temperature, and hang up wet, allowing the water to drip from one end only. When partially dry, iron_on the Srong side with a quite warm iron. Make up over a new percaline lining, with an interlining of haircloth or canvas, which must be shrunken and cut on the bias, carrying not higher than seven inches. E. E. K.—In answer to your question of how to keep a walst from wrinkling under the arm and toward the front when the outside is made full over a tight lining, the first precaution to make is to be sure that the grain of the lining and the grain of the outside material run pre- cisely altke. That is, after the lining has been properly cut, with a perfectly straight grain of the goods running from the shoulder to the waist line, baste the outside material to this in the same way; that is, the grain of the goods running straight from the same points. Baste the seams together without stretching. In fit- ting the fronts work the fullness forward and down as near the edge of the fronts as possi- ble, holding it firmly down at the lowest point of the waist line. Should there then be any small wrinkles under the arm, draw the out- side downward very tight over the lining and baste very firmly at the edge. Then at tht arm seam draw the outside material up as tight as possible and baste firmly to the N ing. This, of course, makes the lining looses than the outside, which is an essential featur of every well-fitting waist. Never smooth the lining to bring it to the outside, but alwaye allow it to be easy, with an inclination to bl larger and fuller than the outside; then in fit. ting it falls into the curves of the figure, and the outside will fit smoothly. Margaret G.— How can I fit & dress skif so0 that it will not poke out in fromt at thy bottom?” Cut your dress skirt at least twi inches and a half longer than you wish whey finished, which allows for seams and any fit ting. Do not have the top of the front gom any wider than the measurement from the bac] dart on ohe side of the front fo the walst t¢ the back dart of the other side at the wais! line. Then fit the side gores so the seam a the side-back gore just meets the gathers i1 the back. Then baste on your walstband which must fit it snugly, and try on. If thert 1s the slightest poke in the front, raise th sxirt just at the hip swell, and the bottom ol the dress skirt will hang evenly and straigh across. If you have made no allowance fo this raise on the hips, by taking a dart o each side of the lining of the front, at th widest point across the abdomen, the poke Wil disappear. Remember that it is just as neces sary to fit a dress skirt as a bodice. . L. M.—The reasons for your close-fitting sleeve twisting on your arm may be quit numerous. In the first place, the lining at th top, reaching almost to the élbow on the outa seam of both the under and upper part of th sleeve must be almost on the straight of th goods, and the curve from there down mus have a_dectded turn. Then be sure the out side is basted on the same grain as the lining ‘Always have a slight fullness at the elbow of the upper half of the sleeve, and baste care fully without stretching. Yhen the arm 1 dropped naturally at the side the inside sean of the sleeve should be on a direct line wit! the thumb. If it is not so, let out the uppa or under part of the seam, as the case ma; require, until the twist disappears. In length ening or shortening a sleeve always make thy alterations at the hand, never at the top. Th highest point of the sleeve must meet th highest point of the shoulder, which is nq necessarily the shoulder seam. e The origin of the custom of widow wearing caps is extremely ancient. T may be traced back to the Egyptial and Grecian practice of shaving off tht hair in periods of mourning. But aj without hair there was a danger o catching cold the men wore wigs upo} their bald crowns and the women caps TWO PRETTY HATS. of girl when she turns swings around women are accused of being bound to DGABIY 3 all, ; should dignify the profession by drawing e o e mecle, for all the world like ¢oqjow the fashions of Paris as falth{ully 0 it many who are capable of creating. The Hew military conversation, or, 28 the sunflower turns to her god. There is an opportunity to-day whic! door dress of check green and white canvas poplin is made by Lenoel & 1 Rue Saint Hcrore, Paris, The skirt is rounded at the bottom and ht vound the bedy: it has two pleats behind to give thenecessary full- s to ncrease from about halfway down. The front is quite No one had reckoned on the patriotism of the American woman. It proves to be o stronger power than the dicta of the Paris mode maker, and more potent shan the charm of rustling silk and filmy lace. will_never occur ufalm A strong and active prejudice exists at this juncture against the usual source of supply. Women must have tasteful and elegant clothing, and here is the opportunity for home talent to supply it. We have been rather, the host of military phrases, heard these days is exceedingly interesting. A girl returns from some shopping expedi- tion. Before the war was started she would have said very simply: “I'll go up WHITE STRAW HAT. AMILLE ROGER shows, among many others, a hat veiled with The crown, which is HAT VEILED WITH TULLE ) very tig r which be with a'n. ow graduated apron, edged about 4s far down as the knee with five pad tel] mother about 1t~ Now her po. ; ; n black tulle. have seen a white straw hat plaited Ifiq Tows of No. 8 black satin ribbon, which cro the bottom and rise up at the sides. - to. 1l o and give the touptersion o9 Our war had mot been long declared be- Iere copyiels, but now Have the Oproc: broad and high, Is slightly conical. Italian straw. The crown is low and fla \e corsage is blouse shaped. in front but tight in the back. It fasiens down the mother.” Or, telling a sister to say such fore we realized the coolness of France cyjtivated people is undisputed, so_we are The brim is of equal width all round, and &nd very vlzllde n(dthe dsulsm':rli(xikledeln !_n {ion which run down (o Uhe waiet. T and such (o Ter father, She Wil say, “Re' igwara America. With he unthinking pot likely {o Tl tn fhac regird. "Flquant 1s edged wich thread lace, On the lett turne up all round and is crinkled tn ¢ ame ribbon. Over the shoulders is a large port to headquarters. Newfoundland puppy, we feminine touches to the toilet are quite as 1t 1s ‘oramented With:a bar- . The h: mm it S paulets, and Is open At the front amd _ “Advance into the other room"” is the Sffection of & ko characteristio of us as they are of the 5o ::";"’fu_, s ornamented With a bar. 5 band of black velvet, with a_strad had fancied that France was our eternal sister. An evidence of her amity toward us buckle in front, in which are set two lo; and wide ostrich feathers which run around the crown. French, and we have the advantage, which suits our practical people, of con- sidering utility. proper way to put it now, and instead of speaking of going up or down stairs, you should say, if you would be really in »f frilled black satin. sage is very graceful in form, and though 1, it is effective. the neck, showing a 11 _yol tume is in good taste. The 1g on the skirt is not no black feathers. At Mme. Schmitt’'s, 10 rue Royale, I 5 VERU LATEST SUGEESTIONS 1N BELTS AND BUEKLES % DR o BUIKLES 00 COILEGH Qg -