The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 29, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 29, 1898. 27 BICYCEE. GIRES AND THER SUM/MER ROAD G EW YORK, May 27.—The bicycle girl of '08 will be a beauteous how t¢ rre two years ason they were not much cle styles this y red. They such as one Ar anywhere. land last many the stage dies stepped on and off railroad trains without getting entan- g skirt. It was delightful to andled their bag- rsome folds to T a little practice with t one becomes really grace- ay that the long 1 banished from the t be the rule in try. In August on is more refresh- a young woman In with natty low shoes t? And what ng wom a for . & young woman in aught my eye he skirt was mad wool goods wit and through ame ma 1 with white patent as a Tam of leather stuck in one side. g was the adjust- isted of a row tons set at in- 2in:on being the skirt un- vele length. which had links in- silver chain running struck me as be- e chain could not as it could off almost gone; > her. She which,_are so is you would are brought in Turkish gathered back so conscious of with of green, wit tail-feathers. . a scarlet The gloves . while not able ri 0 have your stock- This, if the xcellent idea leggings m skirt and steel 3 man can le in she would if she wore black t are a on and hang in ges around the feet. And here a at’| v | facings to be sure that the - | be traced to its economy. n make a Tam out i an old brim. | THE GIRL 1N BLoomMmeRr s | | word of caution must be spoken. Should | these silk linings ever show a tendenc to catch in. the pedals or in the whe | push hard and you will find the silk will ll:n'e, a 0 yOu can save you f a fall. t much better, however, to take the ounce r t | cure 1d_be ple d the beca pine is so comfortable; bu when all is told, you must admit that the the sa and the Tam is seen fully tt | as the others put tog The secret of the Tan ; can yody with popul A | a grain of 1 nuity c of a “whe f cl It requires no trim ., which can A dozen Tams cept a quill at stuck smartl 1 de, for and figure better if it t in some way. all ‘day on her feet r work must be done Is TUnless she roperly this position may c s trouble. Lame, aching ankle: are oftener the fault of a tight n of tight shoes. The corset the ori dressed pi i the great nerves d blood vi h go to the feet, making them most painful. There 1s a shoe which can be bought or $4, with very low heel and broad, > toes, which 18 called the ‘“‘nurse and is much worn by nurses in th shoe bitals, It is not a “thing of beaut it 1s a “foy forever” in its prope The heels and soles of this shoe intended to be used for such work, hence the consequent fatigue ‘ 4 shoe has not come to nted. ere is a brown patent hoe having brown cloth top, r expensive, but which has yre poi ther style ou cannot live without a corset, the | very short French ones are less harmful d glve a better figure than the long There is a girdle which worn with shirt waist and skirt is quite as satis- factory. The waist ends in a stout band | with buttonholes for the tapes, which cting half the at- | button on to the girdle both back and | front. The skirt has corresponding buttonholes. PButtoned neatly under a belt there is no danger of showing safety | pins and slipping skirt. | “A 1ady recently from Japan brought g | home some most delightful shirt waists THE 58U % MER is coming, girls, and with ome fine, beautiful coats of tan d number of freckles for girl upon whom Old Sol casts loving beams at the seashore the mountains. And now is the now—for the summer girl to of cold cream and harm- in right L sup; lotio with which to down these rminations, that c =0 much un- happiness to the feminine heart. \dore beauty, and seek as- 1d means of acquiring 1d we always will. We' may b in a superior, toploftical sort of way and say that if we had our choice we would rather have in- tellect t beauty, but we don’t mean it, and, bless your heart! every one knows n Mme. de Stael com- ients evinced no except for their ed that she would knowledge Mohammed, that We all of siduously w 1it. We alw vs have toss our shrewd chief inducement to the faithful that in his paradise would be found only the most perfect beauties. it behooves you all to be as beautiful as you may, and to be beau- tiful you must in the first place be healthy. The blood must be kept in a | perfect condition of purity, which can be | done by paying strict attention to the dlet, exercising as much as possible in | the open air and keeping the skin abso- | lutely clean. But I could write a column n each one of these subjects. However, to return to the summer girl. In the first place, let me warn her against all patent devices for the {mprovement of the skin or hair. Nearly all hair dyes are polgonous and dangerous, and most face FEKFERXXAXIREERR LR FRE X KK XXX for personal | EEEEEE AR F AL X AR AR AR FRRE X AR R R R R COMPLEXIOUS FOR B % E KK KN MOER GIRL * F glve you a recipe for one than which there is none better. It was given'me by a wo- man in whose family it has been used for years. Here it is Pure white wax .14 ounce Spermaceti ... (13 ounces Oil of sweet almonds -1% ounces Rose water.... % ounce Go to work, girls, and make it your- selves. It's a bit troublesome, but with care there s no reason why it shouldn't come out all right, and it's lots of fun fussing over these things. Take what housekeepers call a farina boiler—that is, one kettle- within another. Take the inside one out and into it break the white wax and spermaceti. Add your ofl of almonds and set-the kettle back inside the other, which should contain bolling water. Don’t let them get too hot, and stir with a silver spoon until the three ingredients are thoroughly.in- corporated. Remove from. the fire and add the rose hot, as the rose water will not mix after | the olls begin to cool. Beat briskly un- til it fluffs up like tne white of an egg. { Then put it into small porcelain jars, | which have been warmed, and put it away to_cool. 4 This is both a skin food and cleanser and will keep it soft and smooth. For sunburn there is nothing better than sweet cream. Bathe the face with it several times ‘and the redness will soon die out and the soreness disappear. Powder the face well with fine starch or pure powder before going out. This will prevent sunburn. Be careful not to bathe the face in cold water immediately upon coming in. For the removal of tan-as good a meth- on juice. Be careful while using to avold exposure to the sun, as the skin is made more sensitive by its use. Next week I will give you anotherrecipe powders contain bismuth or lead. Every mman should have upon her dranfln{ ta- 212z 0§ %004, Rure c0ld oream. I<en) hardest tasks a working- | ans in the pelvis, caus- | made to stand upon, and the body wlanced with this in view. When the | ramps the foot or raises the | all the weight rests on the ball foot, the entire body is out of nce and must be kept upright by using up the muscular and nervous force s from the East grow | water drop by drop, while the mixture is | 0d as any other is to bathe the face in a | wash made of glycerine diluted with lem- | for tan, also one for flick,l“. Hya ‘fizgxgei will not hmorn th!l“ l;;l:hn‘. THE JKIRTED G'RL | of the Japan silk. laundered and starched, cuffs, collar and all, just the same as a cotton waist, théy have a gloss and beauty no cotton or linen will take. The silk bought in Chinatown here for from to 50 cents. It is 23 inches wide and in | almost any color, ‘check or striped and | plain. | A blue one to be worn with a_white pique skirt had a_box plait with two- inch rufiles down the front of the same with a stock and belt also One vard of silk will make | s, Stock and belt. The stock should be made double and lined with double-faced cotton flannel. | Pass it twice about the neck and tie in | a four-in-hand knot in front. The belt | is also double with the joining in the middle of-the under side and not at the edge. Make it long enough to go twice | about the waist and end in a large bow, Which should be sewed to the end of th elt. Pin the free end of the belt under the arm, covering the pins as you pass the belt over the end. The bow may be pinned in the front, back, at the side or brought up to where the top of the first dart would be. When wearing a white pique skirt, and they are quite as much in demand this year as last, the waist should be rather | dark. The belt should be the same in color as the tie and the band on the sallor hat. The organdies with white background and large natural flower patterns can be | made into very pretty, inexpensive | bureau covers and sofa pillows. Cover | the top of the bureau with white felting or cotton flannel. Let the organdie be the | exact size and finish all round with a | four-inch ruffie. Fancy stitch the hem of | the ruffle with heavy silk of the | principal _ brightest shade in the flowers of the organdie, It must be care- fully washed by rubbing between the | hands, as the threads easily slip out of | place.” Dip it in milk to stiffen and iron | wet on the wrong slde on a well-padded | froning board. | A ki | OW: that spring is fully upon us and the lovers of outdoor sports are beginning to realize that pro- crastination at this time of the year is doubly the thief of time, cyclists are securing their wheels from the dim recesses of the garret or cellar and are ofling and polishing them for immediate use. ‘The mind of the bicyclienne is occupied these days with the eternal conflict be- tween the short skirt and the long skirt and she is trying hard to make up her mind whether ’twere better to wear leg- gings or gaudy golf stockings. In the Edst last season the leggings and bicycle shoes were almost entirely discarded. - In place of these the golf stocking and laced shoe was used. It is claimed that the stocking does not wrin- kle over the dainty ankle of the rider as do the leggings. Besides, they are very much cooler and give a prettler shape ta the leg than the wrinkling legging gives. Golf stockings conducing to a more grace- ful effect will, therefore, probably have the call. The popular materials for bicycle cos- tumes this season are Scotch tweeds, tallor cloth in gray and black checks and tan, navy blue serge, and for use in the heat of summer denims and other cotton materials will be in favor. Skirts will be worn shorter than last season. The ) S The® waists were | but | can be | 20 | /) i/ / // il N S = common sense ground that they are more comfortable and cooler. A becoming bicycle dress for a slender woman is made of tan tailor cloth, the divided skirt, short, circular and 'very ull The jacket is made with the blouse ef- fect in both back and front. A blue shirtwaist and an ascot tie are worn with this neat costume. A sailor hat with fg;’ne:m quills will “‘go”” best with the cos- Golf stockings of tan and blue plaid and tan lace shoes compose the footwear. The reign of the Norfolk jacket is not Yyet over. It has been worn for several years, but is still as popular as ever. The skirt to be worn with the Norfolk jacket is a short kilt. This costume is most effective made of gray tweed or gray and black tailor cloth. The most fashionable material for both men and women’s blcycle costumes is navy blue serge with a fine hair stripe of white. This cloth is best for the cool spring days. The full divided skirt is made very short. The jacket is short, with a tight-fitting back and a fly frone. A white shirtwalst is to be worn with a white collar, and a tie of white silk com- pletes the natty costume. For warm sf)ring days and summer cos- tumes of denim and cotton goods will be in great demand. A dainty way for {hese to be made is shown in the pic- ure. : The skirt s wide and divided. The jacket {s made with a tight-fitting back and a loose blouse front. It is trimmea with several rows of white buttons. A white linen collar is worn with this ana a belt of white leather. Golf stockings of a shade to match the dress should be worn, and shoes loose and comfortable. The hat is a white sailor with a bana of black velvet around the crown and a lsrie loop of velvet on the left side. The style of the boulevards of Paris may be adopted at the fashionable sum- mer resorts this season, the knickerboc~ ker to the knee and the leg bare from the knee to the top of the dainty half hose, It is not probable that the cyclist in fashionable society in the Unitea E}tla(es will copy it away from the sea- shore. Sweaters are no longer worn by either men or women. They are negligee ana wretched form. Male riders will this year be seen in negligee ehirts with low turn-down cor- lars and soft ties. They will wear the orthodox bicycle cap or the new style of felt deerstalker. Otherwise their costume will be unchanged. . - 'HEN a woman must spend six days a week at work in the city, it is a duty she owes to herself to get out into the country on the seventh. It is a matter of small expense, and the change of air and scene and thoughts will give an added zest to the work a day a week to make up for the cost. Be- sides it is better to spend a little money in recreation than to give it to a doctor or spend it for tonics. What o meas i e coUALY. I5 & | fmportant question if one would have any real pleasure in a single day’s outing. ‘Whatever is best adapted for rough wear is most appropriate, for though you may look very nice indeed before you start out you will not be properly dressed for the jaunt unless you look quite as well when you return home. For general wear a suit consisting of skirt, coat, skirt waist and sailor hat is always presentable, and never more so than for a one day trip. These dresses need not be expensive. but must be well made and neat and plain. For from $20 to 325 they can be bought ready made in blue serge, which for wearing and com- fort have no equal and is becoming to any woman from 15 to 50. In such a dress you can wualk in the dust or fog or sit on the ground and not feel your trimness disappearing. Noth- ing can be more absurd than the costume one so very often sees—a woman walking along a dusty country road, and most California country roads are dusty, wear- ing a ‘“‘Sunday dress” shoes and hat, which have cost her many an hour of hard work and many a sacrifice of good food to purchase. One such day’s wear will destroy most of the beauty of such attire, make the wearer cross and un- comfortable to her friends, and she must spend all her time taking care of her clothes, and have no thoughts for we beauties around her. An almost indispensable article for one who_goes much to the country is a small handbag. It will hold the lunch and book, a comb and some hairpins and a small mirror, and afterwards the flowers and ferns to brighten the city room and Kee) the remembrance of a happy day. Sucg a handbag can be bought for from 50 cents to a dollar, and with care will last a long time. For vacation wear a pretty change can be had in the ginghams, which are with- in reach of very slender purses. If the bodice is merely a skirt waist it will be doubly useful, and can be worn much oftener than the skirt. A very pretty ‘wash dress can be made from the I5-cent chambray, and ten yards will be all that is required beyond a clever hand aimost any one can own one. 3 Make the skirt quite plain with gored front, and for a belt satin folded and sewed in place to a firm lining. Make the bodice a skirt waist with adjustable cuffs. When worn with the cotton skirt a stock with a bow tied at the back of the neck and cuffs with small bows at the top made of the same satin or ribbon as the ‘be worn in the hair. ‘ancy hand stitching in white or col- F ed Unen floss wakes Very preiiy belt are very pretty. A bow of the same may %, un | oo o ~'I"r|z'PoPULA&\/ REGLK, \/ JACKET ,\,/HCJ , A BICYCLE GIRL WHEN 'SHE GOES TRAVELING OWNS. theless there Is not a single muscle in the whole body that it is not brought into healthy action for some purpose by the person who rides a wheel.” ALL SORTS OF HINTS. Bites of insects, such as fleas or mos- quitoes or bees, will be relleved by rub- bing with a menthol pencil. 4 Ten minutes’ calisthenic exercise, fol- lowed by a glass of hot (not bofléd) milk, to which 'has been added a teaspoon of' lime water, will relieve sleeplessness caused by fatigue or worry. Both must be taken directly before going to bed. A liberal use of salt in the food will destroy the odor of perspiration. In Australia, where the “blackfellows” are employed as house servants, they are required to eat a certain amount of salt in_their food every day. g Before exposure to poison oak, or imme= diately after, poisoning may be avoided by a hot bath in which has been dissolved two tablets of bichloride of mercury. Relief may be obtained after poisoning has occurred by washing the inflamed part frequently with a strong solution of reen soap. After bathing - dust with ormaline. A cross baby is cross for some good rea- son. Let it lie or play as many_ hours a day as possible in the warm, dry sand or on the earth. The effect will be im- mediate and better than medicine. Tndian bables wear few clothes, live on the ground and never cry. Long skirts collect disease germs along with the dust and expectorations of the street. During sleep' the entire system is re- laxed and much more liable to receive the germs of disease than during the waking hours. A _diet composed as nearly as possible of strawberries, cherrles or grapes is the rage in Eur%e at present as a cure for dyspepsia. e diet is effective for the same reason as semi-starvation, usually prescribed, namely, the noxious germs in the bowels do not thrive on fruit juices. A celebratedahieaith expert, after many experiments, advises the use of blanched almonds regularly for brain workers in place of meat more than once a day. He also says apples, when they can be digrs(ed by the eater, rest the brain. runes and juicy fruits feed the nerves, CCO0COCCO00O000000 THE ORIGINAL STAR PANGLED BANNERS C00000000000C0000 RESIDENT McKINLEY has ac- cepted an invitation to deliver an oration when the monument erected to Francis Scott Key at Frederick, Md., is unveiled. Almost every one knows the words of the “‘Star Spangled Banner,” and many are well acquainted with the history of the author,- but comparatively few know anything concerning the where- abouts of this famous flag, which is now owned by the grandson of Colonel George Armistead, historically known as the “Defender of Baltimore.” He was in command of Fort McHenry in 1814 and owned the star-spangled ban- rter that floated over it and the sight of which inspired Key to write his im- mortal lines. During the bombardment Key was a prisoner on one of the at- tacking British vessels. The bombardment ‘began on Tuesday, September 12, 1814, at 7 a. m. and lasted twenty-five hours with but two brief intermissions. Colonel Armistead, although but 35 years of age, had so great an influence over the men that they bore the attack with great patience, but at length a bombshell dismounted one of the twen- ty-four pounders in the southwest bas- tion. This killed Lieutenant Claggett and s&everal soldiers. The confusion caused by the work of the bomb was promptly noted Ly the commander of the British fleet, who immed.ately or- dered three of his bomb vessels to move nearer the fort. Colonel Armistead was well pleased at this move of the enemy as his guns had thus far been useless owing to the fact that they did not carry far enough. He waited patiently for the vessels to come within r.nge and then ordered a general cannonade and bombardment from every part of the fort. So successful were his tactics that all the ships were injured and the Ere- bus so severel - tl.2® it required quite VoOOOO0D CO000000000 S a fleet of small boats to tow her be- yond the reach of Armistead’s guns. It was estimated that between 1500 and 1800 shells fell during the engage- ment around the fort, and yet, strange to relate, but four men were killed and the twenty-four who were wounded all recovered. During the first part of the assault a shell fell into the magazine but did not explode. The fact that the maga- zine was not bomb-proof was known only by Colonel Armistead. Had the soldiers been aware of this they might have refused to have remained in the fort. % P The citizens of Baltimore were enthu- slastic in expressing their admiration and appreciation of the bravery of the young colonel whom they styled “the defender of Baltimore.” They present- ed him with a great punch bowl, with cups, ladle and salver, all of massive | ming on plain cotton dressélp and while | it requires more time and patience is much less expensive. Ruffles can be used, | too, on cotton dresses. A’ very pretty one has ten-inch ruffles from the belt to the hem. The founda- tion skirt must of course be made very | narrow. H many people are reviving with deep personal interest the old question of the effect of wheeling upon the health. Dr. John H. Girdner, who is one of the best known medical-authorities in Amer- ica on matters having to do with the ther- apeutics of exercise, says on this subject: “Bicycle riding is certainly not harmful when indulged in to moderation. In every case bicycle riding transforms the mus- cles of the body into kidneys—that is to say, it causes all of the muscles of the body to perform exactly the same func- tions as the kidneys, namely, the work of eliminating poisonous and other waste material from the tissues. of the body. “None of the muscles of the legs are in- jured in any way by bicycle riding in moderation. All are strengthened to some extent, but particularly the musclés of the thigh, ‘and it is the enlargement of these muscles on each thigh that gives that odd appearance of unusual fullness to the legs | of athietes just above the knees. ““The muscles of the lower part of the Teg which are chiefly developed by pedal- ing are those called the tibialls anticus, the externus longeus. If you will look u your school text book on anatomy ang turn to thediagram showing the location of the muscles of the legs you will per- celve just how the development of these musclés gives that rounded appearance to the fore part of the leg of the bicycle rider to the side of the central bone. “None of the muscles of the rear of the thigh are fa.rtlcularly well developed by bicycle riding, as none of these muscles perform any other office than merely con- lracung and expanding with the move- ment of the leg. © “In the hind part of the leg the muscle that receives the _Frestest development is the calf muscle. This muscle is developed more than any other in the legs, with the exception of the vastus internus and the rectus. The other leg muscle that devel- ops so much as to give a rounded appear- ance is the soleus, which is responsible for the bumpy part of the leg about the ankle of a wheelman. e oR OW that the season for bicycle riding is well under way a great silver. This gift is now owned by one of Colonel Armistead’s grandchildren. The bowl is as large as the largest ball that fell inside the fort. It was a glorious victory, but the | young hero paid for it with his life, for with numerous chances against him he faithfully sustained the siege and won a victory and a name. But the fearful sense of responsibility during those long hours left him with a fatal dis- ease of the heart, from which he suf- fered for three and a half years. He was buried with all possible military and civil/ honors, the procession that followed him to the grave being the largést ever seen in Baltimote, and all mourned the “defender of Baltimore.” The people of Baltimore erected & monument, on which is inscribed: Colbnel George Armistead, in hon- or of whom this monument is erect- ed, was the gallant defender of Fort MeHenry during the bombard- ment of the British fleet, Septem- ber 13, 1814 He died universally esteemed and regretted on Ap: 1818, aged 39 years. So great was James Lick’s admiration for this hero that he erected to his memory a fine equestrian statue in Eu- taw Square, Baltimore. After his death Virginia presented to | his son, Christopher Hughes Armistead, a sword, on which was inscribed these words: “The,State of Virginia to Col- onel George Armistead. Honor the brave. Presented to the son of Col- onel George Armistead (late of the army of the U. S. A.), as an evidence of the high esteem and admiration en- tertained by his native State for the courage and soldier-like conduct of Colonel Armistead at Niagara, and in the gallant defense of Fort McHenry September 14, 1814.” e The flag that floated over the fort during the engagement and now so famous as ‘“the Star Spangled Ban- ner,” was the private property of Col- onel Armistead, having ‘been presented to him by several ladies in Baltimore. After his death it was given to his daughter, Georgiana Armistead, who was born in the fort. She married a Dr. Appleton from Boston, Mass., and “And while it is chiefly the muscles of the leg that are developed in so marked a bx the riding of a wheel. navars five years ago the banner was placed in a safe deposit vault in New k City by her son, the present owner, Mr, eton- ‘Bhenezer Appl