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THE SAN FRA NCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 23, 1898. GENERAL JOHN BIDWELL'S TRIP ACROSS THE FLAINS IN 1841 HE first emigrant train from the United States entered California in the fall of 1841. The first set- tlement reached was Dr. Marsh’s ranch, and the date November 4. Bo far as is now known there are but two men survivors of that memor- able journey—General John Bidwell of Chico, Cal, and Michael C. Nye of Crook County, Oregon. In his twentieth year Bidwell became rossessed of an idea to see the great ‘Western Reserve and thatlonging even- tually led him to what afterward be- came California. He had $75, which he had saved to enter college, and this he spent In getting as far west as the Platte reserve. There he became ac- quainted with men who like himself were resolved on going West. There were public meetings, and gradualily B00 of them banded themselves together LI P IR NV & ) v‘;r‘ll‘ S, beyond that they had nothing to guide them. Providentially they heard of a com- pany of Roman Catholic missionaries who were on their way from St. Louls to establish a mission among the Flat- head Indians of the Rocky Mountains. This company had engaged an old mountaineer for a gulde, whose name was Fitzpatrick and would be up with Captain Bartleson’s party if they would wait another day. They chafed at the delay, but it proved a most fortunate wait for them. The missionary band, headed by Fathers De Smet, Pont and Mengarini, accompanied them as far as Soda Springs, now in_ Idaho. It was rare good fortune to be accompanied by such a man as Father De Smet, genial, even-tempered, experienced in rough travel and withal one of the saintliest of men. Until the party reached the Platte River nothing unusual happened. Headed by Captain Fitzpatrick and the missionaries they each day made what Al s \ ‘ fl\'\‘\\\“\i“’ for the trip. They styled themeslves the Western Emigration Soclety. But reverses came and the movement went to pleces, leaving young Bidwell the only one bent on the undertaking. He redoubled his exertions among distant nelghbors, and finally a party of sixty- nine persons were plodding slowly westward. There were five familles. Young Bidwell had a wagon and a yoke of oxen. A man named Bartleson, from Jackson County, Mo., was elected captain. Each man furnished his own supplies. Nobody was to have less than a barrel of fiour, with proportionate amounts of sugar, etc. Teams of horses, mules and oxen were used. The great trouble of the party at first was that nobody knew which way to go. In a general way they knew that California was somewhere out west; I H)) W e e progress they could. It was customary at night to draw the wagons together into a hollow square, picket the ani- mals inside and detail a guard. to watch. At times the train was half a mile or more in length, but when dan- ger threatened a compact body was kept for safety. For most part these first pioneers had their own roads to make, but when obstacles were to be removed or gulches filled all hands worked with a will. From Fitzpatrick much was learned about the Indians. As a precaution cooking was usually done by day, so as to have no fires by night. Of course the emigrants were treated to an oc- casional scare from the Indlans; as when Dawson, who chanced to be separated from his companions while hunting, was so frightened by forty friendly Cheyennes as to report that he had been surrounded by thousands of Indians, who had taken from him his mule, his gun and the major part of his clothing. The buffalo was a new source of in- terest. Almost from the start many antelope, elk and much smaller game had been seen. but buffaloes were scarce till after the Platte had been reached. It is impossible for young per- sons to conceive of the va: herds of these huge animals that swept over prairfe and hillside, thundering at times all night long, making the very earth tremble with thelr wiid indescrib- able rush. At times some of the party were compelied, on the approach of one of these vast herds, to advance some distance from camp to turn or divide themn by firing guns and making fires, lest they should in their mad sweep trample under foot the entire camp. By the time the party had reached the Sweetwater buffaloes had compara- tively disappeared. Great numbers of mountain sheep were seen at Scott’s INDIANS RUSHED UPON US YELLING Bluffs, below Fort Laramle, on the North Platte, but because of thelr ex- ceeding wildness n were killed. When the mi nary party was about to leave lovely Soda Springs one- half of the emigrant party—now num- bering sixty-four in all—were so dis- couraged that they decided to continue with the missionaries to Fort Hall rather than to venture into the un- known regions toward California. and, not without misgivings, penetrated the trackless western ‘wilds, following down the west side of Bear River toward Salt La Using what scanty information they had been able to gain from Fitzpatrick and other sources, it was September be- fore they reached the northern extrem- ity of the lake. Progress was impeded by almost constant interruptions and frequent delays. The smoky atmos- phere at times made it Impossible to discern obstacles far ahead; the de- ceptive mirage occasioned many a sore disappointment by its phantom hopes of water and foliage. Without know- ing it they were making directly for the lake. The salty plain became softer and softer, the water of the river no longer quenched thirst, and at last the poor, almost famished animals were un- able to proceed with thelr loads. This compelled the party to lie by a day for rest; but it was not long till grass and water were found to the north. The condition of the animals made it im- perative to rest there nearly a week. It is impossible in a short sketch like this to relate fully even the most thrilling incidents and momentous hardships, much less the innumerable experienees of mountain and pldin, with Indians and wild beasts. More than once those hardy emigrants trayeled all day and all night without water. After sustaining many delays and en- countering obstacles that tried the AND FIRING BEFORE WE COULD FIX OUR WAGONS FOR DEFENSE.” Fate of the Logan Party. stoutest hearts, they came within sight of great mountains to the westward. Then it was quickly deeided that the wagons must be abandoned or the par- ty would be overtaken by the snows be- fore reaching California. None of the party ever forgot the indescribable dif- ficuities of this undertaking. They were all Inexperienced in the methods of packing horses, mules and oxen. It soon became a caravan of loose packs, frightened horses, kicking mules and bellowing oxen. Having oxen instead of horses, young Bidwell had a harder time than the others. Not infrequently the oxen with their packs were left from six to ten miles behind the party, and would only reach camp about midnight. On one occaslon the animals failed to come up, 8o next morning the owner return- ed in search of them; and, though trav- TERRIBLE EXPERIENCE OF THE ILL-FATED DONNER -PARTY. HE attractions of Californla made themselves felt in the East even before the da:s of the Golden Era. Though no hint had as yet reached the world of the wvast stores of mineral wealth concealed in her gullies and ranges, the agricul- tural and pastoral resources of the State were sufficient to attract many immigrants, and party after party, traveling slowly in wagons laden with all their household goods, made the tedious and dangerous journey across the desert and over the Sierras. Many, attacked by Indians, or perish- ing slowly of hunger and thirst, left thelr bones whitening by the side of the track to mark the path for the next comer. Many, more fc.lu.ate, got through safely and prospered exceed- ingly In the land of promise. The story of these overland disasters has never been fully told, party after party of immigrants pérished unnoticed in the desert, and no historian has written of thelr sufferings. But contemporaneous accoynts throw a lurid light on the tragedy of Donner Lake. In 1847 San Francisco, or Yerba Buena, as it was then called, was but & little village by the side of the bay, yet its few hundred Inhabitants had energy and resource, the nobler feel- ings of humanity were strong within them. When the news reached the town that a party of immigrants had been snowed up in the Slerras whilst at- tempting to cross the Truckee Pass, the generous citizens made immediate re- sponse and a relief fund of $1500 was subscribed. Search parties were organ- 1zed and with infinite trouble and dan- ger the remnant of the miserable Don- ner party were brought forth from the gnowy range by the side of the lake which still bears their name. ‘Though well equipped and furnished with all needful supplies, everything seems to have gone wrong with the Donner party from the cutset. The trouble began when the immigrants, after leaving Fort Bridger, attempted to follow a new route over the moun- tains. The track, though largely used during later years, was then entirely unopened, and often the party had to halt for days to cut away the brush or to explore the country in front of them. Thus théy dragged their weary way along until September, when it was al- ready getting late In the year, to at- tempt the passage over the Slerra Ne- vada Mountains. After passing Twen- ty Wells they attempted a two days’ Journey from water to water. The pas- sage took them three days, they had to abandon a number of wagons and lost half thelr cattle. This disaster completed the demoralization of the party. Many families were entirely ruined, but the others brutally refused aid, and savage fighting resulted. One would think that the common dangers to which all were exposed should have developed their spirit of humanity. Under proper discipline this would undoubtedly have happened. But as it was, the fear of death only intensified each traveler's selfishness, men fought like brutes over trifles, and one old man whose feet were swollen ‘was actually abandoned in the wilder- ness. It was late In October before the straggling remnant which had escaped death from privation or at the hands of the hostile Indians reached the base of the Sierras. They found it impossi- ble to cross the Truckee Pass, a heavy fall of snow barred the way, and they were forced to winter as best they could near the Donner Lake. Here, lacking all proper clothing and shelter, they strove to shield them- selves from the icy blasts of winter, and when their provisions were ex- hausted had recourse to the most ter- rible of all nourishment in order to preserve their miserable lives. Six- teen of the party, under the leadership of Eddy, made a gallant attempt to win thelr way out on snowshoes, leaving a crimson track over the spotless Sierra snows as they toiled wearily on day after da oy Several relief expeditions at once started out; the first, under the leader- ship of Glover, reaching the camp on February 19. Fourteen of the wretched party had already perished of starva- tion, and the appearance of the sur. vivors, as they crawled from the hovels where they strove to shelter them- selves, their hair matted and filthy, their faces haggard, their flesh wasted to the bone, was ghastly in the ex- A shrunk from cannibalism, but now it had become universal; the bodies of those who died were deliberately used for food, and one human monster was more than suspected of having mur- dered women and children in order to gratify his appetite. The relief party THE DONNER PARTY OVERTAKEN BY -WINTER IN THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. treme. Glover, himself short of provis- ions, was only able to bring out a por- tion of the party, and when the second expedition, under Reed, reached the camp a week later the condition of the survivors had passed from bad to ‘worse. At first & few of the sufferers had was horror struck at the scene which met their gaze. Out of theeighty persons who started with the y nearly one-half, or 86, perished, and that any survived was due solely to the heroic exertlon of the Californians, who spared neither life nor expense in attempting the rescue. eling all that day and night and nearly losleg not only the oxen, but his horse and gun, Bidwell saw nothing of the party till late on the day following. He was indignant to learn that they had not waited for him according to prom- 1se. s The party had been warned against going too far south and thus geumg into a desert country; they could not then go west; there secemed no alterna- tive—they must turn to the north and cross a range of mountains. Would they ever reach California traveling northward? The dangerous canyons leading toward the Columbia were feared. At length the river was reach- ed which, four years later, Fremont first saw and named the Humboldt. Following the Humboldt many days they came to the Sink. Fully one-half the party were now on foot, the provisions were nearly ex- hausted, and there was almost no game. Some food was purchased from Indians; but when the Americans saw 7 of what this was made, all relish for it was gone. The faithful oxen now con- stituted the entire food supply. Being compelled to drive the packed oxen, the party made but eighteen or twenty miles per day. Some were In favor of leaving the oxen and hasten- ing on to California, where. they were assured, there was plenty of beef. One day, after circumstances pecullarly trying to Bidwell, Captain Bartleson and seven men, after taking most of the store of meat, abruptly separated from the remainder of the party and started off, the captain calling out to those left behind to keep up If they could. Following their trail for two or three days, all indications of thelr course were lost in the sand, and Bidwell's party were thrown wholly upon thelr own resources. Maintaining a gen- eral westerly course, they crossed the Carson River and followed up the Wal- ker River—these were not then named —to the Sierra Nevada Mountains, not then knowing their name. The party was preparing to make the difficult ascent and had just killed the brought to Dr. Marsh's there they first learned were. It was almost exactly six months since they had set out from Sapling Grove. That is the story of how the first overland train reached California. ROCKWELL D. HUNT. University of the Pacific. —_——— BIGGEST GOLD NUGGET EVER FOUND. HE discovery of the first speci- men of gold remarkable for its ex- traordinary size plays a promi- nent part in the early history of Callfornia. The official news of the discovery of gold in the State was taken to the government by General E. F. Beale. He went to Washington bearing about $50 worth of gold dust, but failed to excite the Interest he an- ticipated, and returned disappointed. During his absence the historical mad ranch, and where they RN RN LISS 1848: Horn, from 120 to 233 days. 1849: 1858: 1850: 1861: 20 days. 1869 (June): to San Francisco, 9 days. 1898: cisco, 4% days. Overland stages via Pony FEFEEEEREEEE R EE R R R EXPRESS TIME FROM NEW YORK TO SAN FRANCISCO, From 1848 to 1898. From New York to San Francisco by salling vessel around the From New York to S8an Francisco, steamer to Aspinwall, tran- sit across the Isthmus of Darien and steamer from Panama, 81 to 33 Across the plains by emigrant train from flve tosevenmonths. New York to San Francisco, steamer to Aspinwall, by rail across the isthmus and steamer from Panama, 21 to 23 days. Overland stages by southern route, 21 days. Pony express for mail only, postage $5 per half ounce, fro: St. Joseph, Mo., to San Francisco, 10 days. Central Pacific and Union Pacific raliroads, New York By rail, “Overland Limited,” from New York to San Fran- Express route, via Salt Lake, 19 to SR nRIRINNBIINSR RN RRRURRNRNNNRRNRNNIRUNNRNSR better of the two remaining oxen, when who should come up from behind but the eight men who had left them nine days before. Captain Bartleson was a sorry sight as he ate the best sup- per that could be provided. He ex- claimed: “Boys, if I ever get back to Missourl I will never leave that country. I would at this moement gladly eat out of the trough with my dogs!"” Climbing the mountalns with difi- culty on the north slde of Waiker River, the reunited party at length came to the summit, then found the extreme head waters of what proved to be the Stanislaus. This was fol- lowed for several days. Then the last ox was killed; then the party killed whatever they could—even crows and wildcats—to keep from starving. They came down into the San Joa- quin Valley; but seeing another range of mountains far to the west, some thought it yet 500 miles to California. How tired, how utterly exhausted they were on the evening of that day they entered the valley. And the poor jaded horses had nearly perished. Next morning Bidwell breakfasted upon the lights and windpipe of & coy- ote that the advance party had killed and all but devoured. Without delay the eager emigrants made for north- ern timber, and reached the Stanislaus. Antelope and deer were found in abundance. The starving time was over. Next day preparations were made to press on into California be- fore the winter snows. The chosen course lay to the north of what proved to be Mount Diablo; but by means of an Indian, found on horseback, those ploneers of pioneers were shortly rush to California from the ends of the earth had begun, and he found San Francisco In a wild state of excitement. He arrived late in the summer of 184S, About-that time a young soldier. of Stevenson's regiment, while riding along the Mokelumne River, stopped to drink from a stream, and discovered a gold nugget weighing between twenty and twenty-five pounds. He hastened to San Francisco and placed his prize in the hands of Colonel Mason for safety. The latter sent it by General Beale to the Eastern States. The ex- hibition of this nugget in New York increased the gold fever, and the nation began to realize the importance of newly acquired California. A mass of gold was exhibited at the World's Fair, London, which 1s said to have been three hundredweight. It is stated that this specimen was brought up from a deep mine on the back of a man. If the English hundredweight is meant, it would be 326 pounds avoir- dupols, or 4,899.89 ounces troy. It was brought from Chile. With the exception of the Chile pug- get, the largest mass of gold on record was found at Ballarat, Victoria, Aus- tralia, in 1859.- The mass is known as the “Sarah Sands.” Its welght was 2688 ounces. Of all the great Australian nuggets, those from Victoria were the largest and most plentiful. Another nugget found at Ballarat, Victoria, Australia, weighed 2217 troy ounces, or about 185 pounds troy. The welcome nugget also found at Bakery Hill, Ballarat, Victoria, in 1858, at a depth of 180 feet, weighed 2195 ounces troy. A model of this magnifi- cent specimen may be seen in the State Museum of California. 1848 The Blanch Barkly nugget, was exhibited at London, igh pounds troy, or 175 was found at Kin was melted in London in August, yielding gold to the value, of about $34,525. The Precious, found at Berlin, Vie- toria, Australia, weighed 1821 troy ounces. In July, 1851, a very large nugget v found in a pile of quart at Me: Creek, fifty miles from Bathurst, Ne South Wales. It was in three pieces, but was considered to be of the same origin, and is reckoned as one 5. It was found by a native boy, wha saw the glitter of some expos portion. The total weight was 100 pound$ troy, or 1621 troy ounces. A mass of gold mixed with quartz and mundic was found in 1858 at Ban- ondang, near Orange, New South Wales. After the quartz and sulphide of iron were removed by hammering the gold weighed 120 pounds. Being melted at the Sydney mint it ylelded a little over 1182 ounces 74 fine, and valued at €4389. The Ural nugge! valley of Taschku Miask, Russia, Is now pres Museum of Mining Enginee Petersburg. Several others w near the same locality of less 3 weighed ninety-six pounds troy, or 1152 troy ounces The Viscount Canterbury, found at Berlin, Victoria, Australia, weighed 1106 troy ounces. In November, 1854, a mass of gold found at Carson Hill, Calaveras County, which weighed 185 pounds.trov. or 230 troy ounces, valued at $13.534. This is the largest plece of gold ever found in the State. August 18, 1860, a large piece of gold was taken from the Monumental quartz mine, Sierra County, which v ounces troy, the value of whic timated at $30.000. It was p! hibition at Woodward's Ga Mr. Strain_ found a mnu Knapp's ranch, a half mile lumbia, Tuolumne County welghed over fifty pounds avo ‘When broken up it yielded gold ‘to the amount of $8500. A nugget was found Creck, Tuolumne County, in the year 1849 which weighed 408 ounces troy; cal- culated value, $759 In 1855, at French Ravine, Slerra Coun- ty, a nugget was found which weighed 632 ounces: value, $10,100. In 1867, at Pilot Hill, E1 Dorado Coun- ty, a bowlder of gold quartz was found which sold for $8000. 1In 1851, at French Ravine, Sierra Coun- ty, a nugget was found which weighed 532 ounces; value, $10,000. In the year 1867, at Pilot Hill, El Do- rado County. a_bowlder of gold quarts was found which sold for $5000. Mr. Virgin found a nugget on Gold Hill worth $6500. In 1853 a mass of gold weighing 283 ounces and valued at $5265 was found at Columbia, Tuolumne Count. A nugget found at the e place a few days later was worth $6000. In 1850 a plece of gold quartz was found in Sierra County worth $4£53. A Frenchman found a nugget near Co- lumbia_worth over §5000. The next day he went insane and was sent to Stock- ton. The French Consul recovered the money and sent it to his family in France. A gold nugget was found near Kelsey which sold for $4700. In 1876 J. D. Colsrave of Dutch Flat found a white quartz bowlder containing over $5760 gold. ‘A nugget said to have been pure gold was taken from the American River and was sold for $4204. At Smith Flat, Slerra County, in 1884, a 1d0-ounce nugget was found, worth h £6905 s 2% at Sullivan's 716. One found in El Dorado County wor §3500 is now In a museum in France. LR P S Queen Margherita of Italy is not on y)' one of the most accomplished women that has ever graced a European throne, but she Is likewise winning for herself the good will of the sclentific world by hav- ing constructed at her own expense a splendldly equipped observatory on the summit of Mount Rosa, 15,000 feet above the level of.the sea. { | 12