The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 23, 1898, Page 23

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 23, 1898. 28 The Newes! Tea Gowns and Breakfast Jacket. allowance may be, the French woman is sure to have at least one or two tea gowns among her wardrobe. It is the alone who appreciates the true ralue of a negligee. She will surprise Fou by saying that the tea gown is ‘conomical; that it is an actual money- N aving inv ent. She will assure rou that her hful appearance and ter and white complexion wre due m xpensive loung- ng robe t thing else in the world. The true Frencii woman never wears 2er street wn in the house, which s ’ne of the big particular reasons why the is always such a well-gowned, chic roung per on the boulevard. When the comes in from a promenade she fisrobes, and whether she is to be at fome for fifteen minutes or an entire wfternoon, i her tea gown she slips. Senerally i more of a lounging robe ‘han a fanciful tea gown, for en my ittle French lady wears it she rests, and there's half the secret of her vi- racity. Though she may have but one itreet costume, her tea gowns are sure two, an to ghree she wea she is apt to have st jackets as ith beruffled rican woman'’s fondness for vn is growing. She Is be- appreciate its true value. New York city have so »een sold as this year. h captivating gowns as they s are not to be worn at § s a young person from nnocently supposed. As a are to be worn exclusively vacy of one’s own room. But the more costly gowns are able for dinner wear when g with their own immedi- gOw ness. It wasdesigned v York woman whose room was a rose-color bower. By the way, s one of the New York girl’s newest ads to select her tea gown to match the coloring of her room. This partic- ular tea gown is made of delicate pink brocaded silk. In the back it falls from the neck in a graceful Watteau plait. The front of the gown shows a charm- ing little bolero jacket cut in square- thape tabs. Beneath the tabs and out- lining the jacket is a fluffy jabot of French lace. The gown is confined at the waist with satin ribbon, which ties in & bow with long ends. ‘The sleeve is specially effective. It is one of the pretty butterfly patterns. Near the shoulder the silk is divided Into two winglike folds which are sep- arated by a lace jabot, which falls some distance down the arm. The rest of the sleeve is plain until it reaches the wrist, where the brocaded silk is cut in tabs and a lace frill peeps out O matter how small her dressbetween. The stock collar is of the silk, with a high-standing lace frill at the back. This gown is quite a gorge- ous affair, but it may be copied effect- ively and for much less money in one of the pretty shades of soft, bright flan- nel, using a coarser quality of lace for the trimming. > Another tea gowns which is a special favorite this season is made of silk crepon in a light turquoise shade. The gown in front hangs straight and full from its satin coliar. Just at the waist line two deep-pointed reveres start, which broaden out as they reach the shoulders. These reveres are outlined with a frill of point Venice lace, which below the waist line falls to the bot- tom of the robe in a fluffy jabot, out- lining the front breadth of the gown. The sleeve is most unpretentious. It is made of the crepon, and is nearly tight fitting, being a trifle fuller at the shoulder than the wrist, where it ends in a deep point edged with lace. All the sleeves of the newest tea gowns fall well over the hands. Encircling the waist of this tea gown is a broad band of turquoise satin ribbon, which ties at the left side in a bow with many ends. The collar i also of the satin ribbon with a big bow at the back and the ribbon half smothered in a becoming lace frill. To {llustrate the ract that the plald craze knows no diminishing there are plaid negligees and breakfast jackets in plenty this year. A comfortable as well as stylish little gown is made of a genuine Scotch plaid in soft French flannel. The plaid is carried out iIn shades of dark blue and green, with Just a bright touch of scarlet here and there. The front of the gown shows a finely pleated yoke, at each side of which a deep collar is formed of the unpleated fiannel. This collar extends across the back of the gown and is trimmed with two bands of lace inser- THE BALD HILL MINE. Bouth From Hngels?:cmp on the‘ Carson Hill Road. The Bald Hill mine is the property »t Frederick Brunner Sr. of Angels Camp, Calaveras County, Cal. It is situated on the mother lode, running south from the celebrated Utica mine; is on the west side of the road travers- mg Albany flat and forms or comprises the terminal part of a low, uniform range of hills. The country rock car- rles greenstone and blue micaceous Mlate, the greenstone forming the west wall of he lode and the black micaceous slate comprises the east wall. The lode proper is twenty-four feet in width or father in transverse measurement. There are three lodes. The ore is free milling, easily reduced and submits readily to amalgamation. At the depth of eighty feet the ore carries 3 per cent »f sulphurets. They are sulphurets of iron, sulphurets of copper and arsenical pyrites. The sulphurets increase as fepth is attained. The uniform value n gold per ton of sulphuret is $80. There is a shaft down 150 feet, a cross sut at the 60-foot level and another one it the 150-foot level. At the latter level 1 drift has been run south on the lead wbout thirty feet. Of the twenty-four- foot lode a part thereof ten feet In width assays from $8 to $120 per tonm, inother part about thres feet wide will pey by milling process $35 per ton, ind It {s a safe proposition to place the ralue per ton of the entire twenty-four- foot lode at $5 per ton by milligg pro- cess. The mine is easy of access, can be worked the entire year and is very good lormation for timbering. There i8 no mill on the property, the sole equip- ment consisting of a forty-horse power mngine, bofler, hoisting machinery and iumvu. Three miles south is the tanislaus River, where any number of | ent. This was the first clean-cut dynamos could be erected and run the entire year, from where and run the holsting works and drills. | The mine offers one of the best chances for legitimate investment in the entire State. { —_—— J. P. O'BRIEN. An Attorney Prominent in Mining Circles. John P. O'Brien, the subject of this | sketch, is a Native Son, a member of | the Alcatraz Parlor, and was born in 8an Francisco. He studled with Jor- dan & Bull, and was admitted in 1887. | He was prepared for his examination | by Delmas & Bull, and shortly after his admission opened offices with E. L. | Campbell, a prominent mining attor- ney. In 1896 he left for San Andreas, and went Into partnership with Frank Solinsky. At the solicitation of several prominent mine owners, he was indue- | ed to settle In Sonora. Mr. O'Brien has |a fine record in mining litigation. One | of his cases which may be mentioned is that of Howeth vs. Sullenger, report- ed In 113th California. He represented ithe applicant for a patent before the | Supreme Court. The case was that | Sullenger et al. made application for a patent for a magnesite mine {n which | they were adversed by Howeth in the land office. Howeth brought suit in the Superior Court of Napa County, and | upon the trial the court denied the right of both parties to a patent be- cause the claim was not so marked that the boundaries could be readily | traced. After about a year the case | was submitted to Mr. O’Brien, who took an appeal to the Supreme Court, which y adopted his view and re- | versed the cue.t with Ifiutn:c;lonl t'. | enter judgment for applicant for % f‘ electricit could ba obtained to opsrate the mill | sion by the Supreme Court of this valid mining location. The claim was marked on the ground by a notice post- ed at the point of discovery, and the exterior boundaries were marked by stakes and stone monuments at each corner. The trial court heid that this marking was not a sufficient compli- Y MR % Ve ] S, - N\ 7z \ W) A Ao [/ This was He ance with the Federal laws. a great victory for Mr. O'Rrien. also appeared before the Supreme Court in the case of Sheehy vs. Shinn, and District, San Bernardino County, is the largest mine in Southern Californla. The direct route is to go by rafl to Victor and then drive forty miles up into the moun- tains. We were hunting at Bear Val- ley, fifty miles staging from San Ber- nardino, when a visit to the mine, fif- teen miles away, was suggested The gentlemen in the party were un- | certain about a woman's being al- lowed to descend the mine, as there is no cage, only the buckets for carry- ing the ore, but everybody was so good to me at Randsburg that I had hopes it would be all right. The road was picturesque in the extreme, winding in and out among the mountains, and occasionally we came in sight of a large portion of the Mojave desert, with its wonderful colorings, so that I felt we were well paid for our exertioms be- fore we reached the mine and would | have been reconciled even had we failed to ses it, but Mr. Harrison, the super- intendent, greeted us cordially and told us we were welcome to go every- where and see everything. be courteous, se asked the others who should go first. To my surprise, one of the gemtlemen had Iost his interest I was crazy to go down the shaft at | once and could hardly wait for the next | bucket to be emptied of its ore before clambering in, but I thought I eught to | altitude of 1000 feet so greatly he felt | he ghould lle down a while, and finally our exploring party had dwindled to one young man (whom the others said | was too youthful to know fear) and | myself (and I hadn’t sense enough). So |the youth and I climbed into the | bucket, which didn't look big enough for one, and down Into the blackness we dropped, Mr. Harrison descending the ladder beside us. . The shaft is sufficlently off the per- | pendicular for the buckets to run on steel skids, and that makes the mo- | tion much smoother than if you were swinging loose In the shaft, and the alr through the whole mine is wonderfully cool and sweet, so that we didn't feel suffecated. But it's astonishing how long it takes to go down 500 feet of darkness, and that’s as far as the first shaft goes. At every hundred-foot level there is a 580-foot drift, and the | ore has all been worked out between levels by stoping, until now they are working on the 900-foot level. We were helped eut of the bucket by some astonished-losking miners and | we lighted our eandles from theirs and walked along the drift on the little rail- on which the buckets roll 500 feet, and there was a gasoline engine operating the holst in & shaft ing down an- other 800 feet. 1s shaft Is not as well finished as the first, as it is not way ‘I for te be mt, and the engineer ser- teusly ob; ed to our using the bucket, but Mr. =on explained thesityation | and we climbed in again, and we,, A WOMAN'S TRIP DOWN INTO A DEEP MINE. HE Rose Mine, In the Morongo | In the mine, another was feeling the |lowered still more slowiy to the 800- foot level. When we got out there we could see the work of the mine going on in all directions. Some were pick- ing out the ore over their heads, soma were drilling holes for the blasting which takes place at noon and night, some were filling the buckets. We were told this was as far as the buckets could go as yet, but if we wish=d to climb down a ladder a hundred feet we could get te the absolute “base of ope- rations.” So we climbed down and found one poor, lone man drilling for blasting and keeping cheerful by forcing his breath out between his teeth with a loud hiss every time he struck his drill. Then we climbed back the hundred feet and seventy more, and went out on another drift, and climbed down a winze on an overhanging ladder where some men were working in a sort of pocket. They were more astonished than the others had been, but o;e of them recovered sufficiently to effer me & very pretty had just found, and we started back. ‘When we reached the surface ef the earth again we found all our party suf- ficlently recovered to accompany us around the mills. These are quite extensive, including a ten-stamp mill, and the necessary offices, stores, etc., all in a wonderful condition of neat- ness and order, but I felt as If this was all of secondary interest te the 900- foot plunge into darkness and the cur- fous doings of the mole-like miners at thelr lamp-1it work. ADELINE SUMNER. tion and edged with a ruffle of lace. The same pattern of lace trims the front of the gown in a jabot for some distance below the walst line. Dark green satin ribbons are used to confine the negligee at the walist, and they tie according to the general custom of the season at the left side. The sleeve is plain and comfortable. It has no deco- ration whatever until it nears the wrist, where two bands of lace are inserted and a deep frill of the lace then appewrs In a graceful finish. The tea gown of one material, with sleeves of another, !s regarded as fash- ionable this year. It gives the eco- nomical woman aneexcellent opportu- nity of making us. of her old gowns. And then the tea gown velled in net or gauze is another fad of the hour. Silk party gowns, which have served well their duty at the dance, may be trans- formed by a fllmy drapery of gauze or net into a tea gown beautiful to be- hold. For the woman to luxury born there are tea gowns lined throughout with fur. With all these gowns an edging of the lining shows as a trimming for the front of the robe. Then thére are other costly tea gowns which have a wadded satin lining, but are trimmed lavishly with fur. One seen recently was of corn-color satin, with the deep lace-covered collar trimmed with a band of dangling sable tails. These expensive tails also formed a jabot down the entire front of the gown. No woman need be without a break- fast jacket this season, for they can be bought ready-made from 85 cents up to $50. One of the prettiest as well as the best wearing of the newest tea jaclets is made of fine Bedford cord, violet in color. It Is three-quarter length and has a tight-fitting back. The front is loose, hanging In pleats. It is made with a yoke of shirred velvet silk, out- lined with & narrow rew of lace bead- ing and finished with a deep lace frill. The collar is a stock, shirred to match the yoke, and at the back there is a frill of lace. There are ribbons at the waist line of the same shade of violet as the Bedford cord, and they may tie either at the front or the left side. All the silk breakfast Jjackets are lined either with fine flannel or with wadded satin. One which seemed more for ornament than practical use was made of faint yellow India silk, trimmed with fluffy frills of accordion pleated chiffon and tiny puffings of the chiffon. The silk sleeve was exception- ally pretty. Three pleated frills of the chiffon airily fell over the top of the sleeve, while from the shoulder to the wrist the silk was horizontally striped at intervals with puffings of the chif- fon. The collar was also effective. It was a stock of the silk with an accordion- pleated ruffle falling over it and a veri- table silk and chiffon butterfly at the back. This delicate little matinee is an exceptionally pretty model to copy in less perishable fabrics. Another silk tea jacket is rose pink in color, and its special feature is a deep collar of lace insertion run with satin ribbon and edged with a lace ruf- fle, the lace falling over the shoulder and then continuing almost to the waist line. The silk sleeves are also striped with the lace insertion. One of the oddest breakfast jackets of the year is essentially Japanese. It looks just as though it were designed for a little Jap lady with almond- shaped eyes. It is made of gay Roman striped silk, hangs loose back and front and has the conventional flowing Japanese sleeve. Many of the breakfast jackets, both in flannel and silk, are made with long stole ends. When the ends are of lace the effect is graceful and pretty. —_———————— THE NEW GOWNS MRS. PRESIDENT DOLE WILL WEAR IN WASHINGTON. ‘WO very handsome dresses were made by the City of Paris for Mrs. Dole, the wife of the President of Hawall, which she will. wear while in Washington. The material and trim- mings used In these dresses are of the richest. One gown Is a black Nouveaute Du- chesse moire reception dress, the bo- dice of Duchesse moire, with tight- fitting back. The front opens over a lavender velvet waistcoat, with jabot of point lace; the slopes of walst trimmed with Applique point, tight sleeves mounted with small puffs, Ma- rie Antoinette collar of lavender velvet. Skirt en cloche. The other gown is a very handsome ball gown made of black tulle. The corsage decollete, with small shoulder puffs and garniture of spangles. The ekirt made with tulle, with spangled designs all over and finished with three flounces at bottom, the whole made over satin fmperial. ’ won the case. He has been prominent- |1y identified with a large portion of the mining litigation in the State, and has been uniformly successful. At present he is attorney for Captain Nevills of the Rawhide Mine, the Slerra Railway Company, the stage companies and other corporations. ———————— M. B._H_I:R_RIMGN. A Progressive Mining Man of Tuolumne County. One of the most prominent mining men in the State is Mr. Harriman of Sonora, Cal. He is one of the early comers to the Golden State, arriving here in May, 1850. Immediately on his arrival here he went to Tuolumne County by the way of Btockton, and has remained thers ever since. Mr. Harriman has demenstrated his abil- ity as a mining man by his numerous successful venturs and his judgment is to-day taken where an expression of opinion from an expert would net carry welght. He has been the owner of sev- eral mines which he has sold to differ- ent companies, and without one single exception they have turned out rich and even mere 80 than was represent- ed by Mr. Harriman. Among these might be mentioned the famous Ala- meda Mine, located near the Rawhide, which he sold to a Chicago company, and which to-day is one of the best dividend producers in the State. At present he is Interested in and the prin- cipal owner in the North Star, Gar- fleld Conselidated, Bkinner, Batchelder, Harriman Gold mnln'h Company in Tuolumne County and the Rio Vista in Calaveras County, besides several pocket mines. He is one of the direct- ors in the Tuolumne County Water Company's ditch, one of the largest in- stitutions in the county. He !s a na- tive of Maine, but is at the same time forni Mr. Harriman 1850, and stands high with the order. He is residing at Sonora with his wife and daughter. ——————— OCCIDENTAL HOTEL. One of the Iceal Hostelries of San Francisco. To the globe trotter returning East- ward from the Occident and Orlent there is one hotel in San Francisco to which his longing gaze is attracted the moment the Golden Gate is entered, and that hostelry is the old and well known Occidental Hotel. This magni- ficent family resort has for years held a warm place in the estimation of the travellng public, and under Major Hooper’s capable management its rep- utation has been deeply accentuated. The Occidental has been improved during the past year, so that it is to- day an ideal home for the man of fam- ily as well as the tourist. Its cuisine has & world wide fame, and its dining hall s one of the most spacious on the continent. Its equipment is first class in every respect, and its service all that the most fastidious taste could de- sire. ————e— Centra! Park Hotel. Since Mr. Fred Wesson assumed the management of the above-named hotel, at Angels, Cal., it has become the best known and most popular hotel in the county. Mr. Wesson has hosts of friends among the traveling men, and as his hotel is the best conducted in the county it is not surprising that it is always full to overflowing. The rooms are newly furnisheq, light and airy, an the dining room is eagerly sought by all knowing travelers as offering the best to be had. Mr. Wesson is a geni- al host, and always on the lookout for the comfort of his guests. You will be pleased to meet him when visiting Ane a thorou; 1 an. was mfl'. Mason in the spring of.nll-