The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 26, 1897, Page 24

24 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, FASHIONABLE CLOAKS AST week Mme. Fashion called on me and was scarcely seated before she remarked: “Well, Marcella, I am truly annoyed this season, for thus far the only real movelty I have in- troduced is the Russian blouse. a result numbers of figures are spoiled. You, Marcella, are the only one with whom I am acquainted who has condemned this creation. I assure you its failure in the greater number of instances cannot be charged to me, for never did I pretend that it was suitable for all women, whether th were slender or stout, broad- backed and wide-hipped; many willdon the pouched bodice and then declare, if their general tout ensemble is criti- cized, that they are only following my dictates. But you know perfectly well that I have never insisted on anything which was not becoming to the indi- vidual. I indicate what is the mode. At all times, however, I urge all women to make such variations as their special s demand.” very sort of embroidery is fashion- able now, although the general use of paillettes has made them no novelty. Chenille is sharing favor with pail- lettes, and the dernier cri is the appli- cation of padded flowers composed of silk. Only an expert can make such flowers. On one of the latest and most perfect gowns that has been evolved this winter are padded flowers of the same cloth in irregular trails. Some of the best evening confections seen for a long time are of net, em- broidered in steel, jet or silver. Many are the maids and matrons that have mc skillfully wrought gowns for thems that rival in beauty those to be had in most of the shops. Several of the prettiest dresses for young girls are of net striped with satin ribbons, edged with frills of net bordered again with satin ribbons. Spotted net or plain net may be equal- 1y well used for such frocks, and baby ribbon gathered by means of a thread through the center trims many bod- ices, the effect being charmingly chic, but the amount of work on such gar- ments is great, as hundreds of yards of the ribbon are consumed. Chinchilla is now the fur. ing clos nothing can excel its beauty; for other occasions very pop- ular is sable. me coats are also made of broad tail with chinchilla col- lar. I have just seen an evening cloak of an oyster white satin brocade of heavy texture lined with the palest pink satin. It is shaped like a paletot | with a gorgeous trimming, which ex- tends over the shoulders and almost reaches . It is composed of ivory rd, gold cord, black pearls and white and pink pearl. neck is a scarf of pink chiffon edged with yellow lace, and at the top of the high collar which incloses the searf is a small band of gray mouffon. Coats built of latge plaid cloths are exceed- ingly smart looking for girls of from 10 to 12. The skirt should hang easily about the tops of the walking boots and then be plaited into a velveteen 3 >, the plaid material being used in straight breadths. At the bottom of the yoke, front and back, are five rows of black braid strapped across, but broken in the middle by a chevron, de- fined by small gilt buttons. The vel- en collar is trimmed to correspond and may be ra d about the ears or turned down. The sleeves are the reg- ulation coat sleeve model, the plaid bias and the same design of braid and buttons for the wrist finish. A black felt turban, having a deep band of Persian lamb around its brim and a cluster of short black quills atthe side, harmonizes delightfully with this style of coat. The best plaids for this pur- pose are those dull grays, reds or blues, blocked with broad bands of black, enlivened with narrow lines of yellow, scarlet and white. Bear in mind that whatever will contribute to slenderness of figure is the hall mark of smartness this win- ter, and that feature is particularly emphasized both in the form and trimming of the skirts of gowns. They must cling in graceful lines above the knee, and below it curve out into a rippling fulln which must in no way suggest stiffness, but harmonize with the whole effect of slenderness of figure, allowing an accumulation of | for in fact there is in vogue a round | nets, as well as on the swellest even- | finish at the bottom, wherever lines | ing frocks. For even- | Round the | AND WINTER WRAPS | drapery to fall at the feet with graee. | stock. | The newest disposition of skirt trim- | or quite plain. mings, after a bottom bordering h:\s‘ been accomplished, is to have them run in vertical lines from waist band downward, though these lines need not be straight ones by any means, define an apron front, which they gen- erally do, as one sees on the smartest | gowns without exception, where cer- | tain trimmngs, such as laces and furs, are used on full dress gowns particu- larly. Redingotes are regarded as ultra | chic Yor visiting and full dress. They will remain in favor, and retain their exclusiveness for a considerable pe- riod, simply because unless made of the richest fabricsby the best of dress- makers they are total failures. | Nothing can be more highly recom- | mended this season to the woman of | moderate means than a black cloth | gown of fine material. The most dainty of chemisettes are successfully introduced when made of velvet in one of the new shades richly wrought in steel, jet, gold or silver. | The most delightful of such cos- tumes now to be seen in Paris have | collars of chinchilla and revers of a | delightful shade of blue velvet braid- | ed witk black. Bunches of violets Brei worn with them, being considered very | smart. The latest stocks are of velvet that match in color the velvet | of your hat. The short ends must | be trimmed with a fringe; when wear- ing a decollete dinner toilet, espe- cially if it is made of jetted net, be sure to wear a bias colored velvet It may be beautifully jeweled The aigrette in your hair should be flanked by trim, sharp pointed velvet leaves that match. Roses, camellias and morning glories of velvet or silk are the flowers of the moment, and appear on hats and bon- Besides autumn and be- gonia folidge, as well as fruits, com- SUNDAY, DECEMBER 26, 1897. FASHIONABLE STREET COSTUME. A SIMPLE HOUSE GOWN. posed of velvet, are to be seen on some of those just received in New York. The new shades in velvet are known as capucine, iris purple, light and dark old rose, daffodil, yellow, myrtle and peacock green. All good welking dresses must have bodices that are of the same fabric as their skirts. o me » TREET gowns of even the least elaborate character are now ex- pected to abound in novelties. Here are the gowns of two fair brides, one is as fair as a lily, the second brunette. Naturally the first selected an exquisite tone of gray, and this is absolutely covered with Bay- adere stitching, which completely con- ceals every seam, and note at once this fact: A stylish toilet made by a good dressmaker or tailor shows seams anywhere, also the skirt must fit the hips as closely as a bodice and flare out around the feet. This partic- ular frock of gray cloth has a bodice that opens down the front, thus re- vealing some rich guipure lace. At the throat and waist appears softly crush- ed velvet bands of nasturtium lined velvet. Silk of the same tone lines it throughout. The second youthful matron is fetching in a dark rich crimson cloth, no | | round the brim, the requisite touch of the bodice is completely covered with strappings of cloth laid over velvet, the velvet is scarcely visible, appear- ing merely to edge the cloth with a thread-like effect. With this goes a toque in which are wonderfully blend- ed three shades of crimson; a bunch of crimson velvet roses spring up at the left side. A well-known Parisian Countess was observed the other day in a strictly tailor made gown of black broadcloth; the entire costume was intricately wrought with fine black silk braid. Sa- ble now being the rage, her cape was of this fur, and it has been com- mented upon that black makes sable look, if possible, handsomer than ever. Her hat, that completed the costume, was a large one of black velvet with long and handsome black ostrich plumes that curled most gracefully color being orange velvet. It is economy to purchase a good sealskin (or any fur you like so long as the quality is first-class) jacket or cape, as fur never is out of date and is most becoming to every style. Quite a sensation has just been started in Paris by several well known dressmakers who now declare that in gowns of certain lines stout women imparted by choux of appear much less pronouncedly plump; in others they are declared to l6ok as though they had gained many pounds. A subdued shade of peacock blue, plum color and olive green, with black, of course, are announced as the colors under which flesh seems least ostenta- tious, while wedgewood blue, pale gray and almost any shade of red are to be avoided sedulously. Here are the restrictions and per- missions made as to wool goods, vel- vets and silks. So far no latitude or constraint has been given to cottons, but in the way of trimmings and light tints, orange, yellow, light blue and cerise should not be used. Mauve and the higher tints of green are the two colors that, in decoration about the throat and shoulders, are egpecially helpful in diminishing the effect of flesh. These hints are at least worthy of consideration and of experimental in- vestigation, for it is a well known fact that for many years American women did hot make a study of tex- tures, and so would innocently aggra- vate defects in their complexions. Their French sisters for years smiled over their ignorance of this fact, but all stout women should at least re- member to carefully avoid bright and conspicuous hues and light colors, also all woolly textures which naturally ap- pear to increase their size. Checkwear and lingerie cravats are evolved from ivory lace with two sa- ble tails nestling in the thick folds. Too much attention cannot be given to the trimmings at the neck and now we hear of the daintiest of white satin stocks and turned down collars of muslin, the edge embroidered in va- rious colors, with a crepe de chene tie in front. The nightgowns just from abroad are more open at the neck and | have, many of them, elbow sleeves. | As a result there is quite a demand for white bed jackets of Roman satin that Jjust reach the waist and are scalloped | and bordered with lace. Almost .all the evening petticoats have deep flounces of lisse. This ex- travagant mode is lovely, but will | never be taken up extensively. MARCELLA. FASHION HINTS. | Hat raised at the side, covered at the back with ophelia velvet and trimmed with tufts of violets and leaves. Evening or dinner costume for young girl or woman, poplin dress of a ba- nana color; low neck, with ruffiles of crepe; fancy belt. B ‘Walking costume; black cloth; bolero jacket, entirely em- broidered with black cord. The newest belts are most elaborate, but the average woman prefers the plain belt with a ribbon bow as finish. Early in the season it was predicted that wider belts would obtain, but as| yet the narrow ones, such as have been | favored, seem to be the most worn. The lace handkerchiefisnotinvogue, but most of- the new handkerchiefs are lace-trimmed. There are three novel- ties in these small belongings. One is| of pale mauve with insertion of white | Valenciennes lace, having scalloped edge and its border of dots done by hand in white. Another is of sheer linen lawn with insertions and an edge | of real Valenciennes. The other is a | white linen lawn handkerchief, having | an embroidered border that extends over its hemstitching, with a small| initial in one corner. Fashion has de- | creed that the handkerchief in best | taste is the perfectly plain hemstitched one, or the one decorated with Va- lenciennes lace. The well-dressed wo- skirt of violet | ol Mrs. Bridget McHugh, of Donegal, Aged IIT Years. After the death of his beloved Jane, Parr lived a lonely widower for ten AUTHENTIC &T0 LD Johannes de Temporibus, Charlemagne’s doughty armor- bearer, claimed an existence of over 360 years, and succeeded in making a great many people believe in his centuries of existence, but the oldest person of whom we have anything like an authentic rec- ord is Thomas Parr, the “old, old, very old man,” as he was called of King Charles’ day. John Parr of ‘Winnington, in the parish of Alber- bury and County of Salop (or Shrop- shire), was the father of this individ- ual, who was born in February, 1483, and lived in great content and com- fort until November 15, 1635, thus at- taining the truly wonderful age of 152 years and nine months. Parr was a humble tenant farmer ard passed all of his long life, except the last few weeks of it, on the farm which his father had leased before him. = Though a man of handsome presence and shrewd wit, he was no better educated and no more pros- perous than his fellows, and attract- ed no especial attention from any one until at the age of 80 he concluded that it was not good for a man to live alone and took unto himself a wife, a certain Jane Taylor, with whom he lived for thirty-two long years. Two children, who died in infancy, were the result of this union. years, and then married a Mrs. Adda, who is said to have outlived him after having been a great help and comfort to him for over thirty years. No one knows how long the old farmer might have lived had not Thomas, the second Earl of Arundel, “discovered” him. Of this geatleman we are told by an old chronicle, that “hearing of so remarkable a piece of antiquity, his Lordship was pleased to see him, and, in his innate noble and Christian piety he took him into his charitable tuition and protection,” and forthwith carried him off to London, to show him to Charles and the nobles of the court. r tizue of the journey, though it was accomplished in a litter and by easy stages; the excitement of meeting so many strangers; the change in his simple habits of life; and the cruel kindness which fed him on deli- cacies to which his system was entirely unaccustomed, proved fatal to this helpless victim of public curiosity, and after being presented to the King and exhibited for some weeks at the Queen’s Head in the Strand, he,died and was buried in a corner of Westminster Abbey. . Parr’s daily regime from childhood was of the plainest. His food was the ordinary food of his class, and he differed from them only m the fact that he was more temperate. His drink was usually milk or buttermilk, but he drank an occasional gldss of ale and a more infre.uecst giass of RIES OF SOME sherry. Of garlic he was extravagantly fond and ate it with everything and in large quantities. He was a great sleeper, going to bed regularly at sundown and rising only when the sun again set him the example. Taken altogether, Parr's life appears to have been a model one with one regrettable exception. It is sad to know that at the age of 105 he be- came, in spite of his affection for the faithful Jane, inyolved in so serious a love-affair that the church authorities of Alberbury made him do public renance by standing in the corner of the church wrapped In a sheet throughout one entire service. Twenty-five years after this he was still strong and nimble enough to be an excellent hand at the grain-threshing, and it was not until he lost his sight that he stopped doing his usual work about his place. 5 He must have been rather a queer-looking person at the last, for we are told that he lost all his teeth but one, wore his hair and beard very long, was much shrunken and emaciated, «nd was covered from head to heel with “a thick-set coat of soft furry hair, the like of which was never seen before.” His nimble wit, however, did not desert him even at his most advanced age, for when, after telling Charles that he had lived through the reigns of ten monarchs, that royal personage asked him of what religion he was, he replied that he “held it safest to be of the re- ligion of the sovereign reigning,” for he “came into the world raw, and accounted it no point of wisdom to be broiled out of it;” which shows that prudence and foresight had certainly something to do with his unusual length of existence. During the reign of Elizabeth, Sir Walter Raleigh told of a certain Countess Desmond of Ireland who lived to the age of 140 ana cfit three sets of teeth, but Sir Walter was fond of telling wonderful stories, and a shadow of doubt rather clouds this tale. Coming nearer to our own time, the most famous centenarians have been John Willlam Luning of Morden College at Blackheath, and the great French chemist, M. Chevreul. The former died in 1870, at the age of 103, and the latter in 1889, aged 102. In 1864 a French-Canadian wood-chopper, Pierre Baudin by name, walked six miles to vote for Lincoln in Madison, Wisconsin, and proved to the astonishment of doubters, that he was 135 years old. He was very much withered, but in perfect health, and pathetically expressed himself as fearing that “the Lord had forgotten him.” He was “remembered” the next year, however, much to his own gratification, and gathered to his fathers. Squire Parker of Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire, who was the delegate sent by his State to help receive Lafayette on the occasion of his memora- ble visit in 1824, died some few years since at the ripe age of 102, in full possession of his faculties to the last. Last September Mrs. Bridget McHugh of Donegal, who claimed to be the oldest woman in Ireland, departed this life aged 117, and left Mrs. Anne Armstrong of Spanish Point, County Clare, heir to that honor. Mrs. Armstrong is at the present time 116 years old, and though somewhat fee- ble is bright in her mind and sociable in her ways. Lawrence McCarthy, the last survivor of the combatants at Waterloo, has just died at Nenagh, Tipperary, aged 115 years. He was a native of the town in which he died, and was 33 when he. fought at Waterloo, where he was severely wounded. Madame Eunice Laremier of Rouen, France, is in her lsotn year, and is said now to be the oldest white woman in the world. Among our coast Indians, especially. in California, there have been many most surprising instances of longevity, authenticated by statements of the Mission priests and the memories of tribal associates. OF THE OLDEST PEOPLE THAT EVER LIVED. The oldest Indian of whom we have a clear record was ‘“old Gabriel,” rightful chief of the now extinct tribe of the Tulares. This old fellow was a proud rival of Thomas Parr in that he lived 151 years in that estate to which it had pleased Providence to call him at least thirty-five years before the landing of the Franciscan fathers on these shores. At the time of that event Gabriel was already a grand-father, which fact, taken in connection with the other fact that the Indian men at that time gen- erally married at the age of 15, settled his age to the satisfaction of the good Father Junipero Serra, whose first convert he became. When Father Sorrentino came to Monterey, Gabriel's sixth wife had been dead for thirty years, and Gabriel himself told, with tear-streaming eyes, how he had been baptized by the good priest to whom California owes so much, 120 years previous. To support this testimony there was the word of Senora Munras, who died at the age of 90, and declared that Gabriel had grand-children older than she, and that of Senora Castro, who died at 95, and remembered of calling the bent and withered old In- dian, “old Gabriel,” when she herself was a tiny child. - For the last thirty years of his life Gabriel did no work wnatever, and, although much kindness was shown him, he lived a solitary and not over happy existence since he forgot the little English and Spanish that he ever knew, and there was no one of his own tribe left with whom he could talk. He died in Salinas, Monterey County, in 1890. . At the present time there is living in the vicinity of Sonoma an In- dian named Vinciente, whose age is definitely knowh to be 115. He was once General Vallejo’s body servant, and settlers who saw him in 1849 de- clare that he was an old man at that time.’ From Southern California have come many tales of ancient men and women of Indian blood, and cne eminent authority has told us that in the early sixties there were half a dozen Indians, none of whom were less than 120 years of age, who were cared for by their tribes-people in one house. A squaw of 126 years, and a man of 130, were among the decrepit company. A Seven years since there was living in the Licinity of 8an Tomas an- other Indian whose age was reckoned, by following up the chain of events of which he had personal knowledge, to be fully 140. The age of Prin- cess Angeline of Seattle, whose serious flirtation with Bill Nye, as related by himself, made so much fun for her white brothers and sisters, never definitely known. was Judged by her looks, however, she must have been fully as aged as the famous “She” herself. In the light of the facts here presented mere centenarians appear al- most uninterestingly youthful, but our own Captain Diamond here in San Francisco is worthy of special mention, since at the age of 102 he looks and acts younger than most men of 70, and is earning a comfort living for himself as a book agent at the present writing. able Twenty vears ago, when he was acting as conductor on a horse-car, he lookew fully his age of 82, and was thought to be too old for such employment ; but sinee then he has seemed to “grow old backwards,” as the man did in the Ger- man story, and now he looks.younger than many of the men who wone dered at his activity and industry then. In England the rows of curls on the wigs of footmen are indications of the rank of those whom the footmen serve. The Queen’s lackays wear eight rows, the Prince of Wales' seven and the Lord Mayor's six. Snuff-taking fn atill largely practic In Great Britaln, France and ¢ :wmm though by no means to the extent that It was in the last _eentiey, wihen Whether he waed snuft oy oL, every gentleman carried a box, man is the one whose small belongings are in keeping with her costume. A Southern woman says that she never sees a white poodle, dressed up with ribbons and bells, and waddling along in apathetic content, without be- ing instantly reminded of a former pet of her own. This dog mysteriously disappeared, and although large rewards were of- fered for his return, nothing was heard from him. At last, one day, a servant of the house brought him in to his discour- aged owner in an indescribably dirty and abject condition. “Where in the world did you find him?” she asked with a mixture of de- light and disgust, as the dog ‘looked up at her with malicious, t“’{nkling eyes from under a soiled drab fringe of hair. 2 “Oh,” replied the man, doing his best to repress a chuckle, “I done found dat Mopsey ’bout a mile from hyar, missus. You see, dere was a trifling niggah, he’'d got Mopsey tied o;l t;:_ de nd he was projecking ot s windows wid dat dog; but reckon he didn’t get mo’'n seben or eight done, missus!” There are at present in England and ‘Wales nearly 15,000 football clubs. NEW TO-DAY. HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & C0.S LATEST FICTION. THE STORY OF AN UNTOLD LOVE By Paul Leicester Ford, author of “The Honorable Peter Sterling,” etc. $125. “A decidedly interesting story.”— Living Church, Chicago. THE FEDERAL JUDGE By Charles K. Lush. $125. “A Western story of remarkable grasp and power.”—Review of Reviews. DIANA VICTRIX By Florence Converse. $125. “ ‘Diana Victrix’ among the novels of the season is likely to be conqueror. * * * The workmanship of the book is extraordinary.”—Time and the Hour, Boston. THE REVOLT OF A DAUGHTER By Ellen Olney Kirk, author of “The Story of Margaret Kent.” $1 25. “Among the most delightful books of the season.”—Public Ledger, Phil- adelphia. THE JUGGLER By Charles Egbert Craddock (Mary N. Murfree). $125. “The finest and the most finished of Miss Murfree’s books.”—Detroit Free Press. SEVEN ON THE HIGH- WAY Seven stories by Blanche Willis How= ard, author of ‘“One Summer.” $1 25. “Every one of the tales is interesting and tcld with pungency and high skill.”—Chicago Times-Herald. AARON IN THE WILD WOODS A delightful new Thimblefinge: story of Aaron while a “runaway,” by Joel Chandler Harris, author of “Little | Mr.Thimblefinger and His Queer Coun- | tr; “Mr. Rabbit at Home,” “The Story of Aaron,” ete. With 24 full-page illustrations, by Oliver Herford. Square 8vo, $200. - BROWNING COURT- A SHIP and Qther Stories | By Eliza Orne White. $125. “Eliza Orne White's short stories are notably fine. They are natural and un- affected, brief and thoroughly enter- taining.”—Boston Courier. THREE PARTNERS By Bret Harte, $1 25. “The most readable, most artistic and most graceful story-teller of the present day.”’—Boston Gazette, UNCLE ’"LISHA’S OUT- ING By Rowland E. Robinson. $125. “As almost the only story-teller now living who understands the Yankee and his. mode of speech, Rowland E. Rob- inson deserves that cordial apprecia- tion which he receives.”—Springfield Republican. AN UNWILLING MAID * A story of the Revolution, for girls, by Jeanie Gould Lincoln, autho\:( of ‘“Marjorie’s Quest,” “A Genuine Girl,”” ete. With illustrations. $1 25. “Few recent stories surpass it in the fortunate blending of vivacity and sweetness and stern loyalty to duty and tender and pathetic experiences.” | —The Congregationalist, Boston. Sold by All Booksellers. Sent, Postpaid, by HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO., BOSTON. Freud’s Cgset House * SPEGIAL SALE OF CORSETS 200 DOZEN LADIES' PERFECT- FITTING FRENCH MODEL BLACK AND DRAB CORSETS! REDUCED FROM $1.75 TO §I. 100 dozen Perfect-Fitting Black and Drnl:r;cregulnr price $1.50, will be closed 't . at 7 o 4 =33 182 588, et =;°.3 z0¢ L £dq 353 ga 8 5&!' olg §ist §%: $838 i°2 '!mg Fiu' &3 g g3z E‘E 3 i = CORBETE MADE 10 ORDER REPAIRED, FIV GUARANTEE Natl oiters Feiva BROMBE attention. THNEated Uaratopue wialled free, M. FREUD & SON, 742,744 Market Bboand 10.12 Grant ave. ‘QRAY e HRARTE AR ESARORER 1o AURTAL SANE AN BeALS By DIE \_q"i-‘ SR ~'\'.“,|.’ Te: b gnin [ AR AR AR T | R DI EATY