The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 14, 1897, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 1897. 25 WINTER SEASON. Sleeves coat-shaped with cuff, belt | or if preferred, a leather the prettiest i the goods, -jacket and trousers in nmed with br navy biue | d makes a nat sides and j q small boy who is not lessthan t e nor more than ten s old. The k is almost an overcoat, the ing deuble-breasted and the ma- With it should be wo simere, striped, Middy | le of serge, trimmed with | aid both wide and narrow, also titening and buttons. The plaid s continue to come in with nations of criss-cross colorings | d drive even a Scotchman wild to | ccording to their clan. Nor do women have a monopoly as to plsid- The rasculine tie, yea, the | spender, flaunts itself before es in all its vlaid brizhtness. | P 1ch co s WOU hin Every woman should mossess at least | erfectly made tailor own. Itisthe satisfactory and useful of invest- d with trifling additions may be | to do duty on many different occa- | thus being a positive z of Ach of hats, gloves, neck- and wraps with a tailor gown also the entire arance of the smart e of its correct The ma- ie first place, should be select- | pecial reference to the duty it | 1o perform—whether for town | v, for city streets or for travel by opping Uuo wil ways be least well dressed, g0, if one has a good | nge is poir used in and cuf ect bec ushionable cal woman drives, pends her each occa- s are con- ty and expense and eannot there- fancies. 1der girl in San Fran- nto fashionable for the very good reason thatshe sic for a livelihood. all this world, t she wears it d but ssly in it, chang- m the morning evening, and lately brushed e binding at the | was made several women out of every r look at her with a trace 11l conceal. It is not thers that make the | ars. go e ge the other day stepped a ely gowned that haa I meet the salty fate of 1 have turned to lock a er just the same. The ;cods trimmed with e jacket of velver, With this was worn a tight at the back, the revers being | i€ full extent of the law | J a ALSO A VALUABLE GOLD WATGH AND GHA IF YOU SEND 10 CORREGT WORDS. A]I Fnrmm‘ Offers Ec'upscd--du Room for Doubt--Mind what we Say. $300.00 for | a Full Set of Answers, and a Valuable Watch and Chain if you Ao Send at least Ten Correct Words. World, d¢ o publishers of Woman’s et answers, and we $300.00 in « f full %30 Gua s How Can We Afford To Do I hod. \\t intend P s for o v as Woman's World t the past five years and | © we know that | ake a profit of a We have and Prefitahvle antest. million dollars the money, b 0 an enormous scale. tion t An hah-m.in' do it} What you are (o s0a \ ¥ . b nume of & Sinte thas you arti Now can you supply the whole namet If at Fu-st You Don’t Succéed, Try Again. tee Wateh and ¢ mnl.. if you send sk Bear in mind, 2500.00 1 . atch a send at least | 2 | ? | = 10 Name of another Pres. | 3. . & H inated | 4. 11. J % P % N XName of a distant Country. 5. 12. CHI me of another distant Conntry. 6. . g A noted army . oneral of about 7 13. W GT* Nf.'mflu, ago. 8. 14. C% F % EE A popular kind of drink. 15. “ A % ER Another popular drink. : Wao Don't forget to ment an'a World of you promptly. ntion whether you want & lads' the prize may reach or centleman's watehs YOU "WiLL WiN A PRIZE OF GOLD! IREAD THIS, cur publication hus been extablished for 10 ears. rown We are thoroughly rellable a enty-five cents. vour letter will bet o person sending e R500.00 equally i Yo cach, orif more than ten persons llasw and will give every contestznt the % it not as represented, 1t der- bacriber o Womania World or send " icsatisfied with the prize awarded you u have recelved and we will pay 1 y YOU CAN BE SURE Or A PRIZE BY A LITTLE STUDY. 1o This contest is honestly ¢ money you need send with your list of words 28 cents, to pay for ly a subseriber, be sure to mention it, iu-r: t If _your list is correct, as per above st L and if yon don’t feel fully satisfied that yo A rezular subscriber to Woman's ting only to ladies, itis inreality embers of the family, vetif you Distance from equ desire you n New York mak far-aw ize will come to you. moneyand a watch. _Pe« those who live in Nes r, send your list at_onee r prize will be forwarde s sua St., N. Y. or to any Mercantile .\;.vuc) Prize l]ep(., “0“&\5 WORLD PUB. C0., North William St., New York City, N 1 | altogether too heartily downiown when | noontime overtakes them and they repair rich, | just as satisfactorily appeased by a light, | revenge herself for abuses received. | cent light is quite as handsome as velvet. | nettes beinz especially fond of employing | tire suit being | a large, loose double bow in the middie of | the | fon, | crepe de chine. | the modern woman seems to elude ex- | fore, and not the least objection is mani- | fested to somter garments at weddings | toilet, | with color, the shoulders, the edges trimmed with fur, the collar Medici. wEw e S A word about complexions. Inotice a tendency among our shoppers to lunch with healihy appetites to a cafe. Now, a heavy lunch will work no end of damage upon a clear, sensitive skin, as well as make a poor complexion a hun- dred times worse. One's bunger may be nourishing repast, easily digested and really more refreshing. Avoid pickles, sweets, spices and wines at midday as zealcusly as you would a pestilence. Your complexion ought not to be trifled with, and nature will always | *owe e Velveteen is a serviceable and alto- ther satisfactory material for teagowns. In the evening a velveteen chosen with reference to its effect by gas or incandes- It is also more durable and much more adaptable in draping. Green, blue and purple are in use for daylight wear, while for evening the shades are exhibited 1n turquoise blue, orange and cerise, bru- the latter color in evening gowning. Brown and black, once thought quite impos-ible as a combination, may be very stylishly used in gowns for street service, I noticed a neat costume the other day of leai-brown poplin with a narrow ruffle and fold at the hem of black satin, the en- lined with pale green taffeta. The blouse corsage was fastened with a black satin belt carefully following the linesof the waist and terminating in back. A large black eatin collar which might almost be designated a cape came to the shoulders of the leg-o’- | muttcn sleeves and covered the bust. This collar was finished in de2p Vandyke points, frilied with black satin and out- lined with jet spangles. The black satin | stock had a ruching ot chiffon. MARCELLA’ 5 MODES. At a recent “ull ng where numerous handsome toilets were to be seen on every side, comparatively iew were, in the true | sens= of the word, ¢ nd what is | chic?’ youask. **Well, it is as difficult to as tact. You must grow into a comprehension of the word, although bo | . be sure some will never understand it. One authority writes of that “nameless leaven of fashion and individuality best described in the ¥rench word chic.” Style is in its essence; more of an emotion than an apprehension. One tall, slender matron present either possesses that nameless leaven, or her dressmaker does, for her gown, although not of a gorgeous fabric, attracted aiten- tion at once. The skirt wasof a bia nd-white strivet silk, the stripes half an inca wide. They did not run up and down, nor round and round; they simunly allformed V’s. The skirt was hung yrop- | erly and the high-necked bod:ce, of some | soft white fabric, which looked like chi’- | had across the shoulders two narrow | | | black-edged ruffles. Enci:cling the slen- der throat was a velvet crush coliar of one of the new shades of pink. The descrip- | tion sounds very simple and the gown was | in no sense of the word elaborate, butan | artist designed it, for a reproduction worn | by & plump woman would Lave been sim- | ply an abomination. A gown also admired was worn by a very young woman and was of rosy pink | The skir: lining was per- | fectly free from its silken foundation, and | round the bottom was a handsome ap- | plique of lace of a creamy shade. The | bodice had a yoke cf the same, and the | half-length sleeves were softly wrinkled | until they met the small caps in whlich | the applique again figured. How ofien we read that “to touch per- fection adress must be more than an arti- | cle of clothing—it must be a revelation of | wearer’s individuality’”’—and truly the pression. It possible, black promises to enjoy a greater vogue this winter than ever be- nowadays. Of course, ail are relieved by a touch of white or some gay color; for my part I alwavs say that if you de- sire to ruin an otherwise handsome black carelessly intrcduce splashes of color. Really no task is more truly difficult than the artistic combination of black but an all black will fre- quently add ten years to one’s apparent age. The bandsomest and most becom- ing black dress worn at this particular wedding was of rich black silk velvet, made en traine, just relieved with the proper amount of white point lace at the throat. The wearer could not have found acostume that would have suited her | vetter, as every outline, every proportion | nad been carefully studied before the cut or style had been decided upon. There was quite an epidemic of light waists with black silk skirts, and [ must onfess I am sadly weary of the combina- tion, even though I admit that for many it is necessary; but I think this style should only be induiged in the house— not at a church evening wedding. Girls in the Country. Several of them, who spend part of each year in San Franclsco, during the season, are making anxious inquiries as to what they had best order in the way of arments. One inquires whether a tailor uit made with a bloused waist or jacket would snit her, as she is tall and slender. Now, this maiden gces among our most correctly gowned social set, so I em- phatically advise her toleave all blouse )odices and jackets severely alone, for, as lannounced about six weeks ago, noth- ng in Paris was then peing made with a oloused effect in the back, and the latest iews from the highestauthority in France 1= that blouse jacketsare to had at the Magasines de Nouveautes, priced from 4 upward, and as every small or large s ore 's showing this be-tabbed- and be- wuc ed jacket the chic Parisienre has no iur:her use for it. Therefore I strongly advocate my riend ordering a stylish jacket instead, n which let hér have by ail means fur, { possible, as to all faces it is becoming, wnd when the wearer is siender the effect s even better. Of course much braiding <seen, but it 1s far tooextensively in- dulged in for my liking. In choosing & cloth for such a gows, a ling?” A NEW MODEL OF A rich brown or mouse-gray, if of superior quality, will be sufficiently dressy for many occasions, as black, although my preference, would be rather old under the | circumstances, unless a number of pretty light or bright waistcoats could be worn with it, and by all means have a good silk lining, as cloth never hangs so well over any other lining. Another corre pondent wants to know whetiker she can spend three months here and wear only organdies, muslins, chif- fons and mousselines de soie in the evening, or if I would advise one or two pretty silks. She is just past 18. I certainly never cara to see debutantes | in anything but airy, fairy fabrics. How- ever, to always look perfectly gowned in them means the mcst extravagant of out- fits. For in the end a silk is not one-fifth as expensive as a simple white chiifon built over glace silk, which is likely to be | spoiled after being worn once if the owner is not a wall flower. A thira asks, “Shall I investina hand- some jacket or a cape to wear when call- A cape is a temptation, I admit, as it 18 easily removed and will not erusit your bodices. | take cold 1f vou wearone. A jacketaffords | far better protection; and instead of elab- orate bodices, why not wear those that have been made over with pretty fronts that are not guite new? The jeffects are | usuaily excellent if you bave any natural taste. Evening Wraps Are to be more eorgeous, artistic and varied than ever before this season if the celebrated designers have any say 1n the matter, and the rich fabrics usually have interlinings and thus the necessary warmth is obtained. Some are cut so as to fall over the hands like tbose seen in old paintings. The linings are always as handsome as the exteriors. The high up- standing collars are usually lined with { fur, the collar proper being of velvet, car- xied up. from the shoulder in small seas, h are made so as to perfectly suit the lorm of the neck. with large bold flowers, was trimmea at intervals from neck to hem with cascades of- Mechlin, the chifion collar gauged and | lined with fur, the lace trimmingz contin- ved on the epaulets, imparting a square- ness to the shouiders, although there was nosleeve. Another in white satin displayad the loveliest velvet carnations brocaded in their natural colors. - The yoke and collar were of sea-green velvet lined with sable, the cloak with light green satin; while a black velvetcoat had a yoke of mulii-col- ored appligue embroidery in silksand gold thread extending to the top of the collar, with sable inside. It was a very medix- val-looking garment, as so many of them " Brick Red. Strange to say, this color is enjoying a great vogue in Paris, and not only man- ties but dresses as well are to be seen in brick red. Yo be sure, the mantles are trimmed with narrow strips of black | cloth, set closely together. Such garments reach well below the waist line, and in some cases the collarg arcedged with chinchilla. Extremely smart are applicationa of velvet on fur, and equally so are those of fur on velvet. Oneespecizlly mentioned is a cape of black broaa fail, which has an applique in red velvet around the shoulders. The collar is cut in a succes- sion of pomnts that roll back from the neck, In jackets those having long basques | are almost unknown in Paris. Only the most chic and jaunty have been approved of. These are almost completely covered with braiding or with applique. Al such | | jackets fit clo-ely to the figure, outlining it as sharply as a riding habit. All have high collars. Braiding and Applique Was never before carried to such a state of perfection, for not only are almost every one of the really handsome capes and jackets covered with either one or the other, but all the elaborate cloth dresses are completely covered with either silk or wool braid, some of which is almost ha!f an inch wide. Narrow puckered black ribbon is used to interlace in the design. Clever women, skillful with their pen- cils, have in many instances drawn beau- tiful patterns, by which they have had the braiding applied on tbeir tailor suits, and I know of a case where one of our bright gris created quite an exquisite model, and from it her tailor suit was successfully built. Do avoid the bow design, or any suchas you have seen much worn, for it 1s far better taste to invest all your capital in fine cloth than to have ordinary cheap- | looking braiding sprawling over your gown. The braiding to which I have been alluding was ali handwork, The increasing popularity of the cling- ing skirt means that plain cloth, cash- mere, velvet and velvetecn &re to be the Yet you are very likely to | One in pink, brocaded | BEAUTIFUL FUR CAPE. [ leading fabrics for out-of-door toiiets, and although there has been much talk | concerning the careful manipulation and expert cutting that would be necessary | for the evolution of a successful skirt, thus far I can only say positively that the | skirts are to be divested of all stiff lining, | and many are being fitted as closely as | the bodice itself round the hips, and some ! of the latest have this part of an entirely different color from therestof the skirt and entirely covered with applique. Slim- | ness aud length are fashionable. Asa result all trimmings are arranged so as to give this impression. Many cloth skirts are sill adorned with perpendicular | bands of braiding, but I must say I do; not admire this treatment in the least. For instance, I had a skirt disfigared in this manner with four broad lines of fine | | black mohair braid. Perhaps had there been more lines the effect might not | have been so hideous, but the skirt posi- tively looked much better and the cioth (it is a true mouse gray) handsomer when the four lines had been removed. | Experience is expensive. So I give you the benefit of mine and must say that if vou have a fine quality cf cloth you may obtain the bes: results, in most cases, by | having the skirt and jacket plain, and by having the vest or bodice as artistically treated as you please, for the majority of | veople cannot aftord the really lovely cos- tumes which fashion papers are so fondly | describing. Unless you pay about $200 | or even more in New York the work sel- dom comes up to your expectations, if | you are in the least critical. | The high collars and the long sleeves, extending almost, if not quite to the knuckles, are well liked. In fact, a Lon- don correspondentasserts that “‘in dresses and mantles alike there is a feeling for | the Meaici fashions.” Mixtures, in which blue is combined with dark green, and black with green, are in vogue and are seen in the smart jackets, concerning which I have been tetling you. Fickle Madame Fashion, in France, has been frowning upon stripes and plaids, but now declares that tartans are charm- ing, just because a green one made by Felix was a pronounced success, For a considerable time I have not de- scribed a visiting toilet, but very good is one of gray rep, the skirt trimmed with appliques of ecru embroidery in front, the vack cut en princess, but at the side after the coat form combined with the bolero; | the bodice is edged with black-feather trimming carried down the side of the gown. Flanking tbe tablier is a pleating | of gray corded sik; the front of the bodice is of gray mousseline de soie, and amber velvet lines the collar and forms | the semi-waistband. A stuaning brunette has a dress of ex- tremely hardsome crimson cloth with a | vest of white crocodile velvet, Naturally sne will never care to wear this costume downtown. It comes from London direct. MARCELLA. WRECKAGE. BY HOWARD. V. SUTHERLAND. | There are some people in this world | who are only kept from murdering their fellows by lack of opportunity. They devote their spare time to killing off God’s creatures, to the wholesale destruction of soug birds and the harmiess animals of the field. The majority of these incipient ,nssussms appear to write articles for the | country papers, wherein opportunity is | given them to preach their pestilential | theories. One such individual, in a week- |1y letter to the farmers of S8an Diego County, tells how linnets may be made away with. This embryo Durrant, usurp- ing the editorial we, says: “The only thing that we have found that linnets will continue to take is poisoned water. We furnish them with pure water for a while, and then put sirychnineinit. By putting out pure water again when they become suspicious and by repeating the poison they will again be slaughtered by bun- dreds.” I presume that this gentleman lies awake o’ nights thinking of how linnets can best be removed in large numbersand fearful lest some one may think of poisons more subtie and tempting than his own. As he walks along the quiet highways and fills his lungs with toe pure, soft air that God grants him, lest his murderous heart cease its wretched beating, he muses on traps and such things. The caged bird’s lot isnotan enviable one, but Provi- dence works in a mysterious manner and probably knows thatits feathered vagrants are sometimes safer in the city than in their own fields. I only hope that when this valiant murderer of linnets lies in Hades and calls on Father Abraham for just one drop of water tc cool his burning tongue, he will be treated to a taste of his own medicine. The Almighty is apt to | some one suggested Newmarket. BLANKETS ! it so. our means to do it. 11-4 EASTER‘I WfllTh BLA ing. 10-4 FINE SILVER GRAY BLANK beautiful borders, a $3 90 value. ‘TS Lvery one has a $5 Blankat. value at $8 75 value, this week at. ering, special at. Woo E nfted Hand-made te filling, warm as down . i b i L i e i L4 g o i ] P9 o as o s oo & grade, this week at made .... . va.ue, special 50 piects Fine ALL-WOOL FREN plaids and stripes, special at. lizht and medium colorings, ver: of styles, this week. value, this week large size, special at. Our new catalogue is now ready dents, to whom it will be maile. f Murphy Building, Market and Jones Stregts. our Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (not birds). ‘When the Duchess of Teck dled the Prince of Wales was nowhere to be found, and de- tectives were about to be sent after him, when A telegram was immediately directed there and reached him, and, after looking longingly at the track, he tore himself away and went to London. A private wire has informed me that the Prince had a conversation with Mr. Vanderbiit im- mediately aiter the young Duke’s christening, and that he busied himselt witnh the million- aire’s cravat for fully ten minutes. Mr. Van- derbilt is now well informed on certain mat- ters relating to personal adornment, and the Prince was enabled to travel first class to New- market and NEW’ TO-DAY — Our Blanket busmess is booming. Low prices, good values and suitable goods will be THIS WEEK’S VALUES ARE UNUSUAL! ETS, nlmost all lamb’s wool pecml at . 5 Finely made California White BLAVKEI‘S size 65x78 inches, nicely finished and a great value at Large size California-made hns ‘Wool BLANKETS, size inches, a $6 value, but this week at. This week a special fine California BLANKET, tuily 6 ibs weight, soft and warm, and a great An Extra Stocky White Wool BL \\hhT. 7 lbs. weight, and an 3 cases “Golden Gate” Suver White Blankets, 78 inches wide, an $1150 value, to be specially sold at COMFORTERS! 5 cases Good Grade DOWN CO\IFOR’]ERS s1ze 6x6 feet, }rench sateen covered, all new colorings, at . High-grade Laminated Cotton Filled LOMFORTEKS, soft, light and warm, band-tufted, special at.. Good-grade CO‘\!FOPTFRS large mze, clean filling, strong cov- SILKOLINE CO\il‘ORThRS_ fine SPREADSI Elegant Large-s'ze MARSEILLES WHITE BEDSPREADS, a §3 Full-sizs White MARSEILLES BEDSPREADS, and hemmed, a §2 value, tuis week Good Quality CROCHET BEDbPRLADS 200 dozen TURKISH HUCK TOWLLS. size 23x45 mches, 100 p eces Gooa, Closely Woven TE 300 pieces High-grade ENGLISH FLA ORIENTAL YRINTED DRAPERY, 2cases NEW DENIM DRAPERY, 33 inches wide, & grand vatiety of styles and colorinzs. 20c LADIES’ BLACK ALL-WOOL MOREEN 3 eI ET T EOOOSK DRY GOODs. BLANKETS ! We mean to keep a blg size and warm caveh Seeraty $1.15 2.75 $3.50 $4.50 5.00 $6.00 §8.50 Pair per pair 72x80 per paiz per pair per pair ¢ per pair " §5.00 $2.00 $1.00 $1.50 each 215 $1.50 90¢ .each closely woven each full size and well ...each a 20c each ELS, 12i¢ 30¢ 5c thTTLS large range 1 ". s a8 h tinsel col 12 1 I (Dacel GRGEa e 12ic SL75 stribution to out-of-town resi- eceip. of aidress. inl'ty, on sale at....yard SKIRTS, well made, Murphy Building, Market and Joes Stress. judicious betting. The death of the Duchess 1s said to have cuused him considerable annoy- ance. The Society of American Assassins had bet- ter attend to R. Pitcher Woodward, the Demo- crat who betted on Bryan and who traversed the continent sooner than earn the monecy wherewith to pay bis debt. Isaw the gentle- man and his little party the other day and could not help admiring the mule, a modest animal upon whose face was marked an in- telligence superior to that of his master. There are too many of these traveling adver- tisements of the nation’s lunacy and the sooner their ranks are thinned out the better, — e German silver does not contain a par- ticle of real silver. BEAUTY? When I positively guarantee it? Skin blemishes of every sortremoved. Gray hair restored to natural color without any inconvenience. Lsdies out of town successfully treated by mail; always confidential. I can preserve your beauty if you have ii; restore it i. you have lost it. MASSAGE 85 WORTH OF TREATMENT Free! Free! Free! THIS WEEK IN MASSAGE Its importance and proper movement, To make flabby cheeks firm. To make thin necks plump. To tirm, fill and bulld up The entire face. To each purchaser all this ‘Will be taught FREE. Pimples, Blackheads, Wrinkies, Freckles, Warts and Moles, Moth Patches, Coarse Pores, Positively Cured - i) and Removed. Cpen uniil 8 in the evening. TR[AL POT. Ladiesout of town send- * ing thisad. with 10 cents 1n stamps will receive a book of instrrctions and & box of Skin Food and Face Powder free, MRS. HARRISON REMOVES | SUPERFLUDUS HAIR BY THE ELECTRIC NEEDLE GUARARANTED PERMANENTLY. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, BEAUTY DOCTOR, 40 and 42 Geary St., San Francisco. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR FREE. FREE. Is permanently removed by the Philagelphia 1 lectrolysis \om- pany, Donohos butiding, 1170 Mar- ket st, cor. ‘Taylor, rooms 28-29, [ with the Electric Needie, without pain or scar. $1 a half hour this moath: first sicting FREE. Hours l pay more attention to such matters than liodr M FREUD’S CORSET HOUSE. Special Sale of Corsets. il ysice RO will be closed out aL $1. 100 DOZEN PERFE G BLACK DRAB, reguiar price £1.35, wiil by closed out at 75¢. AND E 23022 < a3 = @ e 2 i -] * Lo iz Epsé ZTE THEE o TEET > r* ag= ] 5 e R z R B 2o = S a0 o B3 ZEZ 2t L Aem e!;.“ H 2 2 - ¢ = [ - 3 B i%a3 B Mall orders receive prompt attention. 1llustrated Catalcgue mailed free. Parcels delivered frea to Uakland, Alameda snd Berkeley. M. FREUD & SON, 44 Market St.and 10-12 Grant Ave. 742-7 MAKERS OF , PERFECT ' firTiNG SPECTAELES&EYEGMSSES (JPTI(:IANS},,H m:G ,\pmmmnus: SCENTIFIC 642 MARKET ST. ‘NsTRUMENTS. UNDER CHONICLE BUILDING. UNITED STATES LAUNDRY, OFFICE, 1004 Market §t., Near Powell. South 420, Telephone,