The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 3, 1897, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 3, 1897. 25 e —————————————————————— Our principal dressmakers a:e now be- | ing rushe shopping hours the stores present a crowded appearance, ' for, as I | fore remarked, this is to :r as faras apparel | merous are the frocks | maid and matron | every one should on days at they mast have ns they d not last long, fully wrought, nets of many kinds, X, continue to be the by =il young women, and | what an outlay such | ne 1 do not Ivocate mothers making their n or self-conscious, but to tell be has no figure, no siyle and ry will certainly not iuge or aid Ler in attain- of her own, and if by and retiring the effect will be tly bad. I know a case where just exsctly such acondition ex- ed, but the maiden had glorious eves da briiliant mind; so the dear, retiring, little bookworm, before she ever made her debut, met the most charming of men; but | the remainder of this true story I wiil re- serve for the romance thut is to be written, perbaps, during the comine century by Marceila. However, I know of a number of cases where no such happy ending can be recorded. i So, mothers make the best of every good | point possessed by your children and | modify the objectionable onmes, for by | judicious manag t and loving care | many an s been a source | of much y greatest and most famous j no way remarkable until | several seasons. | 1 time to mature and | me most fascinating. 1 remarke!: | * and she was gine any- | than to have nce rdance. any cases it would be far better | who cannot efford to be properly | her debut, for itis a sad | nee gowned in an ola :de over cambric, when every s on a perfectly fresh frock I know all about it. I de of the question and w what he wassaying nadorned beauty. ophically discuss this ques- | ' said a motner to me who | that stupid writer, but | being in counnection have s to te wherever did you hear of a girl il consoled by philosophy = men to blame? Perhaps in a e they are, but remember they are pan, and not being mind-readers, t be expected to realize that the little maid in the c r is a dear, littie sou f fun, and that she sweetest aud most affec peor joi tionate of wives. | iike most of the rest of us, they | ire bean cks, and gay, laaghing | y into which enters Understand Your Own St,yle.; few realize lcarn one’sown s sount of philosophy. how long it takes to It is a lesson that i - comprehended, and | ing to style in clothes only, | as those who read between the lines wel! know. However, here is not the place for | a lecture, so 1 hasten to reiate to you the very latest news collected from many sources, zll reliable and worthy of serious if you would be np to| contemvplation, d The redingote, the princess and the | cuirasse models have, thus far, been re- ceived with so much favor that the much- worn, round-beited blouse bodice may ere long suffer serfons modifications. i Modish Sleeves and Skirts. The small gigot sleeves, with double epaulettes, edged with Chantilly, are worn, as they give width to the shouiders and pretty lines to the shouiders. Long- wristed sleeves have fewer lace frillings | ched than they had during the last of the summer, and the latest style | the bottom untrimmel, but it s over the hand, having inside mous- | coie frills. These keep the Crumpled sleeves suit many arms, and | 80 remain vogue, being simply made ana :draped at the top. & All readily admit that there are fo be several points of ifference in the making | of the skiris this season. However, but | few are aware that in one of the latest de- | signs the folds of the skirt hang to the feet, and this is the most noticeable fea= ture of fashion atthe present time; and | all skirts are narrower, and seldom isa | very wide skirt seen on any occasion; but | the widest are cut in one piece, circular, | and this siyle isnot to be attempted by any dressmaker not a genius in skirt banging. These facts should be carefully | noted, There ars fewer gores—- never | more than five. The front and side breadths are much straighter, butsull fit tightly over the | hips, all fuliness being carried well to the | back, where it is laid in small boxpleats. | Round the tottom hair cloth continnes to | be used, and fora woman of medium beight six inches in width is ample, and never is it deeper than eight inches, The stifly ruffied petticoat is an abso- | lute necessity 10 keep the dress from fall- | ing in round the feet. Skirts are generally trimmed, or are made ot a figured material that gives the effect of trimming. For | the street all skirts miss the ground, but | all gowns worn indoors are long, those for dinners, etc., baving in all cases trains, Plaided Skirts Are very stvlish for house wear. When they are of ricksilk, made upon the bias, these must be worn with the jacket boaice fashioned out of a fine cicth of a harmo- rious hue. Such jackets fit snugly and have a short square basque in the middie of the back belted tothe waist. Such bod- ices ‘have high collars, divided into tabs. | “Souare crenelations usually’” have been noied on all such jackets in Paris. They are said to become very effective through their lining and wiring, as tbey may b"’l turned up or dewn. H Very cuic are considered revers which extend into .a high collar, and this style bas been successiully introduced on the | pensive. | veils, being unhealthy, are worn usually jacket bodices, which have long, close- fitting sleeves, with wrist crenela These are narrow and extend sev | inches up the arm. The space is filled up | with plisses of silk or ¢a | Now are be! & shown in several of the | best New York houses a modification oli the jersey. The old-time jers:y manner | of outlining the shoulders and arms is| mentioned as a tentative experiment | seen in some of the latest bod.ces match- ing their skirts, being belted th short busques, if not one of the new biouses, scant, but falling siightly over the entire | belt back and front. T new sheulder | effect is brought about by lengthening the shoulder seam and drawing the material e arm us tight as possible, so as to pro- | duce a marked outline. sleeves are ticht fitting all the way, re set in very low, the seam covered an upturned cuff, which is not wide % bu: flaring slightly beyond the arm ina | peculiar way. Only one woman in a thousand could stand such a bodice, ro- quiring rather high broad shoulders, very round and weli-made arms, otherwise it | | would prove most disfizuring as well as | an extremely uncomfortable bodice to the | majority. | Bod ces must closely fit the figure, but | no: a suspicion of a seam is to be seen | anywhere. Blouse bodices are now very | scant and hang very slighily over the belt, and the present front blouse style that is foose from the shoulder will soon vanish. Mourning Fabrics and ‘ Fashions. | Henrietta cloth is much employed at this season for mourning, and may be | bad in numerous varieties, but the dead | bleck is considered to be in far better taste than the blue-black, and it now has | a softer finish and more of a gloss. When | the blue black has a satin finish it| scalled Eudo-a cloth. This wears well and islight as well as warm. ! Crape is once more recognized as the | ideal mourning, as crape cloth, etc., bas | Leen discarded as not being neariy so | effective and satisfactory, and it is well | known that only the best crape should be purchased. In the end 1tis far less ex- A young matron who has just returned | irom Paris in mourning for her mother | bas a crepe blou<e made with many cross- wise tucks, and with it goes a cashmere skirt, on whick are from waist to hem broad tucks of crepe. The entire toilet is over black glace taffeta, and is beauti- fully made in every detail, as is also an emiire tea gown composed solely of crepe hanging in straight lines from a broad belt of dull jet. The neck is cut so as toshow the throat at the top, while transparent sleeves of crape, lined with lisse, fit tightly down | to the wrists with puffs at the top. This slender. graceiul young woman has a toque that I also admire. Itisof the finest-drawn biack chiffon, with tiny little tucks. It is trimmed at cone side with two crape rosettes and a huge black bird of paradise plume. Neither bandkerchiefs, cards nor sta: tionery have very wide borders, and crape but the briefest time, excepting by widows. There is a growing tendency among all classes of society to do away with tue melancholy sable-hued garments, for to be constantly reminded of a sad bereave- ment is certain to have a disastrous effect upon the spirits, and consequently the health of those most tenderly attached to the departed, and this deplorable state of affairs should not be allowed 1o exist. Some are much in favor of the Russian idea of mourning, for they wear pure dead white. Many now wear crape when out! of doors and white when at home. No doubt fifty vears from now very different views will be held on thissubject. Three Crestions for Evening Wear. Gowns of rare beauty are being aiready sent bome for the first dinners and dances of the season. One is compo-ed of an | ivory white brocade, over which are La France roses. These are son..inral that it makes one m arvel at the wonderful per | likewise appears in the form of a Victorian ! as a lining and the skirt is entirely sepa- | all the latest ev ning skiris are so ar- °°¢aa0ao;’o SHE IS A BUTGHER. How a Eureka Valley Young Lady Makes Pocket Money. Perhaps if you was to step into a meat. shop for a tenderloin steak and instead of & brawny butcher cutting 1t off for you were to be promptly and deltly served by | a brown-eyed slipof agirl, in a dainty | gown, you might be surprised. I was. In one of San Francisco's “warm belts,” &nown as Eureka Valley, at the intersec- tion of Market, Sanchez and Fifteenth streets, liv s as bright, healthy, useful and happy a 16-year-old ma.den as ever blessed | home ana pa:ents. Her name is Lillic Ka- niiz, and her fsther, Otto Kaniiz, con- ducts the “Log Cabin’’ Market with the partnership aid of his daughter and only child. And a yproiitable and jolly ar- | rangement it is all round. The time may come when girl butchers are as plentiful as blackberries in summer season. Just now they are conspicuous by their infrequency. Little Lillie Kanitz has mascered her trade, for, to use her proud father’s words, “she has been dart- ing in and out of a butcher-shop in a busi- ness capacity ever since she was as high 000’ LATEST STYLES OF DRESSING THE HAIR. No. 1 does not require that the hair should be very luxuriant, for the two bow- | like loops consume but little, and may bz made to match the hair, if necessary. | No. 2 is considered to b= a modification of the mode worn in 1830. The quaint bow of hair arranged high on the head is said to recall the time of our grand- { mothers, No. 3is decorative and becoming, and the winglike arranzement of the ribbons original. No. 4 appears to have been intended for a charming debutante. puffs and the graceful coil. Lovely are the fection of the weaver's art. The roses are , connected by festoons of green ribbon. The skirt hangs faultiessly and the train is most graceful. As we are all to have | trains, I mustat once advise you to be most cerefui to have its lengtn suit your height, and not a little practice is neces- sary beiore the average debutante can manage ber train properly. The bodice is of the brocade, but not the sleeves. They are of exquisitely fine lace, arranged asa short puff, and on the bodice this lace collar. Another gown ordered for a debutante it of creamy mousseline de soie over glace taffe'a of the same hue. It is completely trimmed with fluffy ruches made of frayed-out white silk. So slender is the wearer that seven ruches are none too many on thke skirt, but they vary in width, increasing in size as they reack the bottom of the skirt. Round the low-cut neck of the apparently seamless bodice is a ruche and the sieeves look like great ruches, Most lovely and extravagant, I assure you. and this idea of having ruch- ings is one of the season’s novelties. For a bride has been most successfully designed a ball gown of rose-hned miroir velvet. The entire bodice is richly em- broidered with mother-of-pearl nailheads. | The sleeves are of pink gauze, spangled in the same way and lined with rose satin. This satin is used throughout rate from the foundation satin slip, and ranged. Tney are narrower, the fullness being thrown well to the back, and as they are separate from tne lining more irimming is required, and in numerous instances this takes the place of flounces and pleats at the sides. Three gauze ruffles, covered with the naiiheads, border the skirt and give the | finishing touch. Novel Weaves and Colors. Shot silks are out of style, so if you de- sire to use one left over from last season in good condition wear it under a musiin, a grenadine or anv other transparent fabric. Much plaid taffeta will be worn and the popular <hades wiil be Parma violet, tor- quoise blue, r10ss greens, numerous =hades of red and pink. For evening wear lovely are the hues cbtainable in good qualities of poult de soie, which isto bea popular fabric. Old rose, lime green, vert lumiere (the new grass-green color) and veach are thoroughly appreciated by stylish women. The new moire has the pattern now car- ried across the silk, like mother-of-pearl, in an almost indescribable zigzag which has a different effect in every light; some are striped and othersspotted. There are numerous zigzag ribbon ef- fects, not only in moires, but in other silcs as well, and satin-edged stripes are certainly effective. They are also seen on moire and silk lattice-work patterns, and in some extremely handsome brocad tinsal is employed. Mucn satin will be worn by both ma- trons and young girls in the evening, bat for the very youthiul the popline Fran. caise and simple armures, in dJelicate | shades, will ve liked. All the most elegant evening confec- tions now being shown by the great dress- makers of Parls are of rich brocade, and such colors as mauve, mingled with black, black and white, are reported as chic. Extremely fashionable are the Bayadere stripes, which go round instead of up and aown. Several of choicest weaves and | colors are to be found in our best stores, They rank under the heading of novelties, but are well worth the prices charged. Poplins are to be had in such variet'es and are so excellent that one does not | wonder at their increasing popularity. Most of them have apparently a larger proporuion of silk than wool in their com- position, Little Things. @Straws are said 10 indicate the way the wind blows, and so in the matters of dress the little things mean a great deai, and I want you all to be aware of the fact that muslin and tuile bows tied under the chin are no longer correct, haviag become very common; but very nov.l are the narrow velvet bil's, to which are added litile up- right velvet tabs. Stylish taffeta or rib. bon belts, when fastened in the back have standing bows, the loops being pinned fiat 10 the bodice. The ultra-smart married women are having either black or white lace barbs on tueir calling-zowns. These form bre- teiles on the bodice, but on the skirt they are wider and spread out like the spokes of a wheel. Parasols with jeweled handles are seen in the bands of many wealthy women, and truly some of them are works of art. One belle Las her crest on hers,another her monogram done in emeralds and dia- monus. Cardcases are being beautified in a similar manner. MARCELLA. ‘lasa grasshopper.” While her fatheris ?‘ away she runs the place like a veteran in | come in, from a rib roast to a bit of meat | for somebody’s pet cat. So thoroughly | qualified is she that when Mr. Kanitz | gzoes to Dawson City in the spring it is | likely thata sign painter may beemployed | to erase the *'Otto’’ on the door and sub- | stitute “Lillie” instead. | | The young arm that wields a| { cleaver in preference to a tennis | racquet or dumbbell as a muscle de- | veloper is a prettily rounded one, with | supple wrist and firm little fingers. Straight, lithe and active; always dre ssed neatly and modishly; rosy-cheeked and | brown-haired, and with a manner that shows natural refinement, Lilis is a child whom one would be attached to at once. | Business training bas made her alert and | keen, yetrobbed her not at all of the sim- | plicity, modesty and gentleness that are a maid’s most pleasing aitributes. Her parents are industrious German people, who by vears of frugality have acquired considerable means. Lillie ana her mother own City real estate tothe value oi several thousand doliars, deeded to them by Mr. Kanitz, but the wise young grl is as ambitious to get on in the world through her own exertions as though there were nothing in store for the possibie rainy duy. She keeps the books | of the firm in a clear, round hand, makes i out, collects and rays all bills and delivers | | orders to customers at theirhomes. With horse and cart she may be seen, morning and evening, whisking around corners | and making the dust fly on cross streets in |a way that no outcher-boy competitor | need hope to discount for speed. Liliie graduated at one of the city's grammar schools two years ago. She is an excellent cook and housekeeper; moreover, she can play Beethoven as well as she can carve beef, which I submit is a rare combination ot accomplishments, | and no pun intended either. Other young girls who read this may be interested to know that Lillie bought and has paid for Iout of her own earniags a piano. She gave $200 cash down to begin with—rather | a tidy littie sum for her to have laid by | | as the result of commissions allowed her by her father as a bill-collector. | Mr. Kanitz may locate plenty of yellow | metal in the Yukon country next year, | but he will leave home something that is | | worth more than its weight in good Klon- | |dike gold—the little lady of the *Log Cabin,” LiLLiaxy FERGUSON. WRECKAGE. | BY HOWARD V. SUTHERLAND. The widow might be termed the Uni- versal Elueator, ana the world wouald be in its kindergarten stage without her, Considering this, and seeing how she is accustomed to consider her own interests before those of any one else, is it exactly the thing for certain papers to apuse so many of her kind for assuring themselves of an income by marrying Unitsd States veterans? The world was made for the widow, not the widow for the worid, al- tkough she is always of it. If she sees fit | to attach herself to a pension and its vei- | e not every right todoso? should not the nation be thank- fal that the men who fought and bled for it, and lived through it all, are now in the safe-keeping of ministering angels? Is it not also satisfactory to know that when the day comes for the veteran to go to that land where there 1s neither siave question nor government by injunction, | ration is a sequence.” { the business, filiing any order that may | the goosestep. matters? And, again, when he lands on one of the clouds will it not be scoring a point for the United States when he tells the former sharer of her joys that she is drawing a neat little income rezularly, provided by a grateful and uncomplaining people? By all means let the widow of the veteran be provided for. The question, “is life worth living?”" can occasionally be answered 1n the aflirmative. I notice, for instance, thata plumber failed the other day. That fail- jure was undoubted!y carefully planned out by providence to recompense a suffer- ing community for the overbearing con- duct of the man and his brother million- aires. The plumber will get over it, for there never yet was one of his kind whose wealth at the time of his death was esti- mated by paragrzphers at under §3,500,000. In the meanwhile we can hind consolation in the thought thatit will take him at least three years to acquire thatsum of money again. That is to say, unless heis fortunatesenouzh to secure the contract | for the plumbing in the new Postoffice. A brush with the Japs in the near future is not an improbability. Altbough it would be interesting while 1t lasted no on2 doubts what the final result would be. San Francisco has not yet had its baptism of fire and it is only natural to suppose that, sooner or later, it will come. The conquerors of China are itching for an- other fight and it is not our fault if they underestimate our strength. There is many an cfficer among them who would willingly risk his life to obtain the Order of the Rising Sun and, on our side, there are said to be nota few militiamen who prefer real fighting to parading on car- horses or strutting on cobbled streets for the edification of a few sightseers. Should war break out some benefit wiil, undoubt- edly, accrue therefrom. Business in cer- tain lines is sure to pick up. Think, for instance, of the crowds that will find reiuge in the bombproof cellars of the Louvre and th2 Odd Fellows’ Grotto! There is nothing small about the way in which certain papers speak of them- selves. The Philadelphia Times, for in- stance, has this to say: ‘Tbe Times has attained perfection, and the highest admi- Abreathless world now awaits the Examiner to go it one better. If there Is one thing for which Amer- icans can be justly proud itis their chiv- alry toward women. Our atutude toward the fair sex is different from that taken by any other nation in the world. The ave:- | age Englishman classes his wife alonz with his pet animals; the Frenchman is obsequiously devoted to her and betrays bLer bebind her back; the German toler- ates her and the Turk ignores her alto- gether. The American worships her, and altbough he (or a small portion of him) may occasionally forget to offer her his | seat in a crowded car, he treats her with politeness and consideration, doing so naturally, without asking much i turn. For this reason the news that the German | Emperor, for speaking disparagingly of the mother of one of his officers, has re- ceived what is vulgarly called a black eye, has caused nniversal satisfaction. In Eu- rope the deed will elicit less comment on account ‘of the principles involved, the principles that women are inferior to men and that the tongue of royalty may wag as it is minded to. In spite of the trite saying that we live only for the almighty dollar, there is more true chivalry to a square mile in America than in all Ea- rope put together. Since 1701 the time of the Hohenzollerns has mainly been taken up by teaching guttural-growling recruits It has not been customary for them to Caper nimbly In a lady’s chamber To the lascivious pleasing of a lute. We of America, on the other hand, have been educated under the softening influ- ence of women in the public schools, have learned our lessons side by side with girls, and zre therefore accustomed to treat them as companions. Early in life we evince our preference for the parlor to the barracks, for the children’s room to the stables, and the influence of our early en- vironment manifests itself until the end of our days. Until our system of the co-edu- cation of the sexes is introcducad into the German empire and German women are treated with the respect that is due them black eyes will stiil be administered to their detractors, crowned or uncrowned. It seems strange to a layman why a white-skinned puvgilist should refuse to meet a brother-at-arms merely because he 1s black. Mr. Sharkey, the late Pride of the American Navee, presents his compli- ments to Mr. Peter Jackson, the late Antipodean Wonder, but cannot fight him, being willing, I suppose, to stain his right hand with red or vlue blood but not with plain black. Incidentally I would remark that the two men did not mind drinking together. It is only within the last few vears, however, that knights of the ring have commenced drawing the color line. Men of a diiferent hue fought one another unto death in the Roman amphitheater, and their prototypes, the wila beasts, mangled the bodies of both with equal zest. Twenty years ago the white prize- fighter who objected to meeting a colored opponent would have been hooted out of the ring, and even to-day he is apt to lose prestige among his own fellows. People lacking the fine discernment of the prize- fighter which enables him to see why he should not fight a negro are forced to the ————————————— NEW TO-DA: Winter’s Fashionable Capes and Jackets! We show the most mag- nificent lot of Fall and Winter Fashions of any house in San Francisco. Beauty of appearance and best quality of goods, coupled with extremely moderate prices, in fact the cheapest place in the city for WHAT YOU GET. Golden Gate Suit House, SILVERMAN BROS., 1230-1232 MARKET STREET. or FADED HATR RFSTORED to *vouthtul color ani b by DR. HAYS' HAIR HEALTH.” Re moves dandraff and scalp disease. Don't stain jiinCovers BALD . Absolutely harmloss. P ** hiseyes will be tenderly closea by one who has had no little experience in such i sts. Heta K i 5 druggises. Retail agents Wholesale-MAC! CK & CO Gy ol AELS; COFFIN, REDINGTON & CO. G conclusion that the latter is capable of delivering sundry painfu! blows on wéak portions of the whiteman’s anatormny—his head, forinstance. We must alsosuppose that the white fighter has still suflicient pride in him to wish to etcape a whipping by one whom he is pleased to consider his inferior. The shipment of 10,000 pounds of butter in hermetically sealed .cahs from Winni- peg to the Klondike was 2 charitable deed, and one that should not be without reward to its promoter. Judging by late reports, wever, it 18 to be feared that butter will be a useless article upin that region.. Bread is what is necded. By imposing on the participants a fine of $10 a New York magistrate has ‘shown us the way to keep bloodthirsty Italians from dueling. Considering the depleted condition of their bank accounts, this method could also be satisfactorily em- ployed with the dueling nobility of France and Austria. The vastness of the sum-to be raised after satisfaction had been ac- corded would rob it of its sweetness and would hinder the prineipals from rushing so ridiculously to the field of honor. —_— A New York watchmaker recently ac- complished the feat of drillinz a hole through a common pin from heaa to point. NEW TO-DAY. Pattosien’s Making a New Record | Much selling of goods during | our great REMOVAL SALE is without precedent. . VELVET CARPETS, for instance. What reader of this papcr cver* before heard of ENGLISH IMPERIAL VELVET 3-4 and 64 wide scll- ing at $1.00 yard? Or, again, GOOD QUAL- ITY LINOLEUM 4 yards wide | at q4oc a yard? The wonder grows when you see the patterns and quality. But we shall not | stop to think of profits. - The | price that sells is our price. CO000000) AXMINSTER CARPET— Alexander Smith & Sons’ celebrated goods, an endless variety of new:ef- fects, borders to match, regular price $1.25, now. ..95¢ IMPERIAL ENGLISH VELVET—Ex- tra quality high-pile Carpet, all new, fresh designs in Parlor, Hall and Stair; Hall patterns running 4 feet 6 inches wide; regular $1.50 quality for........5L00 TAPESTRY BRUSSELS—S. Sanford & Sons’ celebrated 10-wire goods, large range of this season’s pat- terns to selectfrom, with or with- out borders ; also Hall and Stair. These are carpets that our com- petitors sell for goc. Our Price..75¢ INGRAIN CARPETS—Best all-wool, extra heavy Agra weave, the most beautiful Ingrain fabrics ever shown in the city. They are regularly sold for 8sc and goc. Our price, including best GRANITE, or INDESTRUCTIBLE INGRAIN—10 0dd patterns to se- lect from, advertised downtown for s0c. Our price....... SMYRNA RUGS—A_bsqutely best quality, all wool, 12 feet long by o feet wide.... SMYRNA RUGS—Second grade, 12 feet long by o feet wide...$ JAPANESE DANTSU RUGS—12 feet by g feet... $10.80 It is these prices that fill. our store full to overflowing with buy- ers every day, and it’s no wonder ! NOTE—We remove to our new store, cor. 16th and Mission sts., October sth. [colcccooc] PATTOSIEN COMPANY VALENCIA AND SIXTEENTH STS. 22222999 THE WEEKLY CALL It Publishes the Cream of the News of the Week and MANY ATTRACTIVE AND ORIGINAL FEATURES. ITIS THE BEST WEEKLY BAPER ON THE PACIFIC COAST 7/ ‘Mining Not a Line of it Sensational or Faky, and Not a Line of it Dry or Uninteresting. Bright, Clcan, Thoughtful. A CALIFORMIA NEWSPAPER ALL THE TIME. flm:‘l)EVOCATES SENT BY MAIL, S1.58 INDUSTRIES A YEAR.