The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 26, 1897, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 1897. S WHAT YOU SHOULD WEAR JO BE STYLISHLY GOWNED If you de:»’e to m’.opl a moJe flml wil for itisno more so than any other de- be extrer as the lining must fit just as closely, while a Ltly bioused bodice may t some such figures the b'oused effect | h wi H LL\\O‘I. | rment seemsto | su 1 { | | both back ana ifront is to be carefully | it is most ided fit properly, and only | o fashions are slowly arriving and | S "‘oiy:r: mwo(“-“ n uj.{ers ar ‘llbulll the ux:}dd»‘ < next month we willsf 7 % = roughly succes ful | know wore definitely what modes have piece of wo: earance is cer- | been a Eastern sisters, but this season several of r milliners are to be complimented on THE tations are charming, as we de- ar. The great New York ell represented as weil as ux, Josse and many others. I was enthusiastic over one of Virot, Positivel 's , as the owner should be tall and For CORRECT 00 == ANSWERS! $2l]ll Most Unique Contest of the Age—$200.00 Paid for Correct Lists Made by Supplying Missing Letters in Places of Dashes—No Lottery—Popular Plan of Education—Read Ali the Particulars. Is expended for education as for the military, In the United States four ¢ h money Prain 18 T than brawn. e have become a great Naion. We, the publishers of Woman’s \\"orm Monthly, have done much toward the ny ways b a yoar knowledge S contest is to give this competition of ller Menthiy (0 such a mns. By tisers of soaps, 50, 000 & Year L0 OUT income, ave decided to operate this most remarsable HERE 8 WHAT YOU ARETO D0. ch letters have been omitted, and k spaces and ge: the names prop- We want youto speil outas 2 three monthe’ subscription to 0 i cash s in appea 1ful £ rous payment for Dpianos, medicine re thir'y words ve been supplied k send 16 rect lists wo shall gi the n be aw For co: iso, it ia Diamond Therefore, by sending to sena a correct list_you you may live from New n Yors makes o PRIZES WILL BE SENT PRUMPTLY We publish the list of words to be e nambver of each word: 1 and promptly ers, be sure o giv I(’ B-SM--K xnctearaer - L TO0-]- Aoobernowea ]d_ P-R-0 A == 19. A-ST-A- |- xvic stana. 20. M_ % ' N_E _ Name of the most T s A ~ Onecf the United Siates. J = F e n _ _ N Once Presidentof the United States. = U‘ . N A large lake. s N A noted poet. fore'gn country, same size as Kansas. Prlrea will be honestly awar . “In making your list of ry of South rice. A con o Am Name = body A —A fl" A city of Spam. A Acityonaw A large island, 1. % 1slaad. -0 13. G F R k- A e o 2B R -H- -G ‘J' A L E A great explorer. 20. A-L - N el s 15. C-L- F---1- el 30. M-D-G-8-A- Antsiand ness mention whethe ¥ou wan: your prize mouey gen: by _bank send any way thal winners require. The Egeria a of 76 We dety experts to ulstin v respect it aerves gue purpoe of Genuine v mounted in a fine -old-plated pin, warranted 10 t 1o a frisnd 3 you do not need it In sending your list of words 4 omey orger or regis ered mail: we wi Diamend is a perfect imi L tiom real except be roscopic 1: 18 At stic: of jewelry wiil make d m resent our suppIY of Liese i Chey are ail gome when your set of e e shall send you v insiend of the Seart or Shawl Fi ety - the P.ece of jew eqeivalest i n cash, 1n aadition to your park offaris an houest one cncies andany b ok b What more can we d0? Now study swers send 25 een:s to pav for three agazide, Woma 's World. 1i you havealready niwe wil extend your subscripiion from the time the wrap money very carefally in paper before in- intae $200.00cash ref th Fubscribed. mention that ac. in ; Jr-sent one expires. ‘To avoid loss in sending silver, ciosing i your letter. Address JAMES H. PLUMMER, Publisher, 22 and 24 North Willlam Street (Departmsnt 527). New York City. N. Y. pted by the Parisians and our | LATEST PICTURE HAT. stately. It is large, broad-brimmed, low- crowned of the most exquisite pearl-gray f-lt. Mind, the low crown is a wide, soft puff of a heliotrope silk velvet, and this puff, as well as the brim, both outside and in, is veiled with a fine black lace. In the center of the crown is a large, lovely oval ornament, from which point are arranged on either side three beautiful black ostrich plumes that lie quite flat and rest on the brim, At the same place I noted auite a fetch- | 1ing toque, the crown being of gold-em- | rapeaux, which would have | te out of the guestion for me to broidered white satip, the brim of black velvet, and at the side are two fine black Prince of Wales plumes. The vonnets were chic—one all in tones of blue was quite charming when don:ied by a snowy-haired matron, as was like- wise another in a rich creamy yellow vel- vet. Two cone-shape arrangements of the velvel were very new; one came ateach side. In truth, it was very Frencby, and that is saying a'zood deal. At another well-known store my tempta- tions were numerous, for there were the handsomest great black picture nats I have seen for many moons, and a dear | toque that was made of a hairy brownish | cloth velvet. | were the lines of nailheads. this | 1f more than one per- | nailheads of cut jet-black feathers, and three crimson roses. The crinkled crown was of tie cloth ard on it, radiating from a common center, Tne brown velvet brim was softly crinkled. At one side were tucked the red roses, and the heads of jet. A medium-sized black hat was composed of a sort of satin braid half an inch wide, and a quaint furry looking braid. The short brim turned up at the side and back most effectively, and at the left side were two short and handsome ostrich feathers, one white the other black. Round the crown, which was a low one, wasa new black and white fabric. An evening bonnet made almost en- tirely of Indian embroidery had next the | hair a crimpled foid of white velvet and at the side a short white feather. The prin- cipal cclors in the jeweled embroidery | were green, gold and ruby. On my tour of inspection I saw a rather stylish toque made with an entire crown of jet nailheads, one overlapping the other, | a soft greenish velvet formed the brim and three black plumes were well arranged at | the side. Everywhere the castor-shades are in evidence as well as mouse color. Heavy feathers made up in flat wing-like trim- | mings are to be seen. prominent American | All varieties of shades are obtainable in felts. Some are being made up in bright | hues, relieved by black velvet trimmings and black feathers. Coq and owl feathers are extensively employed. As many felts are to be seen with low crowns as those | with high ones, and they will be generally worn with tailor gowns, Many of the hats from the very best | houses have an overcrowded appearance, for the feathers are so piled on them. One of black velvet, from Virot, has an ar- rangement of plumes exactly like an In. dian chief's headdress. Women with short necks should avoid | overtrimmed chapeaux or those having in | any way a heavy appearance. The drawn tucking work and gathering j is new and appears on many of the latest creations, and certainly it is pretty. The Theater Hat. In Paris Vogue admits that the French press has conquered. What surprised me was the fact that the hats were much | the sam2 in price as last year, in spite of the fact that the duty on such importa- tions is so very considerable. New models will continue to come out for some time vet, and 1 will keep my readers well in- formel concerning the latest novelties, and will discuss at length concerning sev- eral next week. Some Novelties. Ribbon embrcilery is being applied successfully to skirt-fronts, on which are wrought minute floral sprays, a< well as many delicate Louis XV and XVI pat- terns. Speaking of fronts reminds me that those of chiffon are worked all over with Jace braid in dainty designs, interspersed with diamonds, and in the pattern are in- S e e e e N R T T C AT AN | pactly, but many never realize how hand- | i il | til they [ short feathiers were encrusted with nail. | 2°m® OF Pretty they areun y | IR [ does my lady stop here. | every GOO1 Nmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmnmmmmr mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmrmmmmz LIQUIDATION SALE SPECIALY! at 90c. FLANNEL SKIRTS. At 25 Cents. EXTRA SPECIAL. At 25 Cents. regular price$2, will be offered at$1 FANCY STRIPED FLANN I"L cambric band, will be offered | | | | | At $1.25. LADIES’ FINE MUSLIN GOWNS, col- | i lar and revers of fine embroidery, regular price $1 50, will be closed out 2t 75¢ a yard. | 600 yards CHECKED AND STRIPE price §1 50, will be closed out at 7. 400 yards EVENING SHADE $125, will be closed out at 75¢ At | At 60 Cents a Yard. | 200 vards COLORED FAILLE FRANCAISE SILK, in p'nk and lavender i shades, regular price $1, will closed out at 60c a yard. SILK DEPARTMENT. At 75 Cents a Yard. 500 yards COLORED MOIRE VELOURS SILK, medium and dark shades, & At 75 Cents a Yard. D MOIRE \'ELOUllS SILK, regular At 75 Cents a Yard. MOIRE VELOURS EILK, regular price a yard. 75 Cents a Yard. | 300 yards BLACK MOIRE VELOURS SILK, keavy quality, regular price $1 50, will be closed out at 75c a yard. | (EXTRA 75 dozen BLACK AND DRAB CORS ISLIN UNDERWEAR.| Our great and overwhelming ssful A Gl gly successfu ML | LIQUIDATION SALE TO SETTLE THE At 25 Cents. ESTATE OF THE LATE J. J. O’BRIEN | N ek enpeiat "ok "sos | OPEMS the week with an array of BARGAINS | Wil b aftared sEdic; THAT TOTALLY ECLIPSE any of those that | —_— have thus far packed our salesrooms with | At 50 Cents. delighted buyers, embracing as they do some |,,; T neetion saise Yoke o | of the most stylish and desirable goods in the | will be offerd at 50c. ‘| market, ALL. OFFERED FOR IMMEDIATE | s | CLEARANCE at figures corresponding with | At 75*Cents. the following s LADIES’ MUSLIN GOWXNS, yoke of em- | | broidery and insertion, regular price | $1 25, will be offered at 75c. . swEEPING AND RES'STLESS : ot | | W REDUCTIONS. | LADIES’ HEAVY MUSLIN YOKE, | | bandsomely trimmed with embroi- | | dery, regular price §1 35, will be offered | \ 100 heavy finish, regu- LADIES' MUSLIN DRAWERS, finished £y ts a Yard. with tucks and ruffle of embroidery, | 20 pieces BLACK DUCHESSE 'SATIN (all silk), soft, will be offered at 25 lar price 85c, will be closed out at 62}4c a yard. - SER “CHR.ONICL.E” AND 2 EXAMINER.” HOSERY DEPARTHE | 50 dozen LADIES’ NATURAL, WHITE F‘OR ADDI’I‘IONAL BAR.GAINS \T At 10 Cents. dozen LADIE: FINE COTTON HOSE, in tans, plain black, and black with colored ileet, regular price § dozen, will be on sale at 10c a pair. YT YH YV TYIN At 15 Cents. dozen LADIES’ RUSSET SHADES, fast black and black boot, with red, tlate and assorted colored Richelieu ribbed tops, extra value for $3 dozen, will be closed out at 15¢ a pair. At 25 Cents. dozen LADIES’ FAST BLACK RICHELIEU RIBBED HOSE, also Black and Gold Lisle, odd sizes, worth 50c the pair, will be on sale at 25ca UNDERWEAR. At 35 Cents. dozen LADIES’ GRAY MERINO VESTS, extra heavy, in large sizes; also pants to match; former price §8 dozen, will be on sale at 35¢ each. At 50 Cents. dozen LADIES’ WHITE JERSEY RIBBED MERINO VESTS, long sleeves and high necks, former price §1 each, will be on sale at 50 each. At 50 Cents. AND BLACK 8WISS WOOL VESTS, high neck and long sleeves, good value for $1 each, will be offered at 50c each, SPECIAL---CORSER At 55 Cents. ETS, made of imported sateen, heavily boned, two side steels, French edeing, perfect fit guaranteed, regular value $1 each, will be on sale at 53¢, Murphy Building, Market and Joes Streets. Murphy Building, | Market aud Jones Streets. Warket and Joues Streets, | uumummmmmmmmmmmmmmm%umuummmmmmmumumummmmmmmnummu Murphy Building, Market and Jones Streets, 1 flmmmmasuuummmumnnuuAummmuuutmuuumxmuumuuummummunumumummmmm troduced lace stitches a jour. Panelsand | fronts are to be much worp, and when- ever possible should be edged with cas- cades of lace, which add so greatly to their beauty. Therelore have any fine Jace you may possess put in good order, as you will require it all this winter, as Jace appetrs on almost every handsome dress. The panels and front breadth are to be worn distinct from the rest of the gown, not only on evening aresses, but on morn- ing ones as we. Hairdressing. Many women who exercise the greatest care in the selection of their toilettes pay little attention to the becoming arrange- ment of their hair. To be sure, it may be neatly coiled, waved and done up com- have had their hair properly dressed. 1f one can afford a maid who under- stands the handling of her locks so much the better, but if not a hairdresser should not be regarded as an extravagance. A wealthy matron bereso littie compre- hends what might be done with her tresses that on special occasions her head has the appearance of a cake covered with a nice smooth chocclate iceberg. Now those who really can dress their hair pron- erly are few and far between, and abso- | iutely nothing is more importantthan | that our locks should be carefully and | artistically handled, and again the woman | who would be noted for her chic and style does not foolishly follow any one particu- | lar mode. She studies thoughtfuily her | face and considers whether her face can be improved by a few soft curls, or whether a pompadour roll is best. Neither She most care- fully notes the toutensemble. All of us have at times been forced to smile at the woman with a very small head placed on a long and slender throat who screws hair tightly away; and, again, equally badly does the uhun plump, al- most neckless woman look who has every | hair erimped so that her head is out of all | proportion. Again and again have I heard wonder expressed that Miss Smith should be such | a belie and her cousin, who is so much more beautiful, is not. Now, I do not in- | tend to infer that Miss Smith’s belleship is due to the fact that her hair is always so exquisitely dressed—not at all—but in every detail she takes the same inteliigent care and makes the most of every good point and would be admired anywhere. Suggestions for arranging the hair are | not easy to write or give verbally, but I | have been so fortunate as to procure the excellent and becoming styles here illus- trated, which emanate from one of the best and most exclusive hairdresser’s salons in Europe, and will be the fashion during this entire winter. The first illustration does not require that the hair should be very luxuriant, for the two bowlike loops consume but little and may be made to match the hair, if necessary. The Prince of Wales plume | at the side is decidedly chic. Number 2 is considered to be a modifi- cation of the mode worn in 1830, but so great is the modification that I was quite surprised to learn that such was the case. The quaint bow of hair arranged high on the Lead 1s said to recail the time of our grandmothers. Very modern are the| roses, and the way in which they are| placed is most charmingly becoming to many faces. The third is certainly decorative and. becoming and the winglike arrangement of the ribbons quite original. Fora bright &nd charming debutante { most likely deaden any pretty color you the fourth style appears to have been m-‘ tended, for lovely are the puffs and the’ graceful coil. I Make a study of these sketches and you will find them of use whenever yon have your hair aressed, and even when you Yourself attempt its manipulation. Matrons poorly supplied with hair may | | order quite the newest and prettiest of | toupee made of naturally curly hair, mounted on a single hair lace, so as not | to overheat the scalp. When deftly | pinned in place positively cannot be | distinguished from the wearer's own | locks, and enables her to look well in the wettest and most olustering days. Those requiring to bs more extensively supplied shouid remember when ordering wigs that nature knows more about what colored hair will suil their complexions than they do, and if the best results are | sought the hair you have left will be matched. Never fancy a youthful front | or wig of bright and lighter hair than | your own will serve to take a single year from your age. On the contrary, it will add a few, emphasize every wrinkle, and may still possess. The dainty woman feels a real pleasure in the selection of the newest and choicest tortoise chell pins and pretty adornment for her ba'r, as cheap pins and tawdry feathers and flowers are simply abomina- tions when used in such a way. Give more than a passing glance always at your eyebrows. A little vaseline rubbed into them every night on retiring will | make them thicker and darker, and |hey | should always be brushed up or down, as | the case may be, so as to be as becoming | as possible. Artistic Tables. Nowhere in the world are tables set with greater taste than in America, for even} the most humble board is rendered attract- | ive by a few fresh flowers. Tho:e who | can afford not only the finest damask but cloths of rich lace or guipure as well gladly lavish their money on them, and I could not help feeling romewhat | | amused when a friend informed me that really a guipure cloth was an economy in the end, as it could be used over siiks of different colors. However, of greater in- terest to most are the cloths of spotless | linen,on which may be gracefully ar- ranged wide satin ribbon, for example. | Very successful would be a green and white dinner, the centerpiece of feathery ferns or maidenhair, from which radiate | broad green iibbons, four of which ter- | minate at the edge of the table in eitner rosettes or bows. The ices, the icings and the cassettes i may all be of the same hue. The lamp- | shades, however, had best be of another tone, so unbecoming 1s a green light. ‘White and gold tables have been tried by many hostesses with the happiest re- sults, especially when great clusters of yellow roses have been used; but pink has always been the favorite color, espe- pecially for debutante luncheons. 1 also know that a striking brunette gave a stunning crimson luncheon, and a corn- | flower blue one was likewise a great suc- cess. Last winter a New York debutante gave a white luncheon, at which evety oneof | the courses was white and all the guests were attired in white. So exquisitely was | this idea carried out that many tried to imitate it with peor success. 1f you have any desire to entertain suc- cessfully first see to it that your linen closet is well supplied. ‘Then acquire as much cut glass, silver and beautiful china as you can afford. Happily most people. are aware of the fact that silver must ke properly cleaned, but I know of one matron who is the for- tunate possessor of some unusually hand- | some old family silver, which she uses on all festive occasions, but which she posi- tively refuses to have polished, evidently imagining that it looks more ancient in | its discolored condition. 1 bave been informed that glass should | never be washed in soapy water. Instead | a little ammonia must be used and saw- dust is said to dry cut glass perfectly. The latest cassettes are to te obtained in a wonderful variety and in almost every shade and color. This is good news for housekeeyers. The candle-shades now being made of alternate frills of lace and ribbon are said to be quite charming. MARCELLA. |AN AGTRESS JURNED BLAGK. Had Been Using a Dangerous She Unknowingly Gosmetic. To go in bathing and {o come out black. To use cosmetics and to be sorry for hav- ing done so. These were two recent experiences of one of the most noted of Mexican actresses. The lady is now uncertain whicih to for- swear, the bath or the cosmetic. She is tremendonsly fond of the bath and at least gently devoted to the cosmetic. The trouble occurred at one of tha | famous watering resorts of Old Mexico. Senorita Blanc had gone thither for her vacation and for her health’s sake, To- ward the fag end of the dramatic season she had always had trouble in maintain- ing the purity and beauty of her Castilian complexion and like some others of her profession had fallen into the habit of putting on a new one where she could not preserve the original. Instead of taking her ‘*plunge” immedi- | atelv after arising, as was her general custom, she pestponed it on one occasion until later in the day. Then she went in gayly, dived like a mermaid, came to the surface, shook the water from her face, swam around for awhile and suddenly observed that people in the tank were | smiline at ber. She smiled to keep the observers com- pany, but at that they only smiled the harder. Then she grew anxious, reached for her hair to see if it had fallen | from its cover. The smiles of the audience broadened, and many people began to look away for the fear of embarrassing the act- res<. The latter was just beginning to lose her temper when a fellow-swimmer, a man who subsequently wondered at and re- gretted his hardihood, approached herand | spoke something in a low voice. The woman gave a quick elance at her arms and hands, shrieked: “You wretch,” and rushed out of the bath. Once in her dressing-room, she seized a mirror as she might have seized a villain in the play, and gave one look into it. Then she fainted. From head to foot, wherever the limbs proiruded from the sw:mming suit, she was as black as an African. How long before she recovered the act- ress does not know, but as quickly as she could she called for a vellboy. When the latter approached the door the actress ex- claimed: “Run for a physician, quick, quick!" ‘What more natural, then, than that the office force should seek to discover what troubied the noted actress? They knocked at her door. There was no answer. They knocked again. Senorita had surmised the personnel of the party and declined to respond. At that she heard remarks about how and | ‘ iil she must be, and that perhaps she had fainted or she was dying. Then one of ) the men whose voice she recognized to be 1thnz of the proprietor of the baths pro- posed foreing the door. “I'll kill the first man that touches that door,” she cried. Happily in a short time the physician appeared. He emerged | presently with a smile on his face, fol- lowed by the senorita, closely veiled. Ot course it was a case of professional secrecy, but somehow the incident was one too many for the physician. Later, he entered the hotel, sat down in a chair and laughed loud and long. Then he called his friends around and explained. The actress had been using a complexion creme which contains a strong solution of zinc. When she went into the sulphur batn the zinc turned black. “Senors,” saia the doctor, "I tell you this for the good of your wives. Advise them not to bathe when they are using cosmetics, or not to use cosmetics when they are bathing. Perhaps sometime the sudden ! complexion would be permanent.’* ———————— Ho Returned Thanks. A colonel who was much addicted to traveling once reached home when the { house was full of his son’s guests and staved to dinner. One of the comnany, a notorious drawer of the iong bow, told a story of his being off the Cape of ‘Good Hope, in an India- man, when a floating ob]oct was discove ered which proved to be acask, whereon a | man was seated clinging to a small staff in the bunghole. “‘Come on board?'’ retorted the ocean waif when hailed. *‘No, thank you. I'm very comfortable here. I am bound for the cape. Can Itake letters there foryou? i Don’t botker about me. I'm all right.” Tnen, amid tne silence which followed | this incredible yarn, Colonel G. arose and gravely addressed the narrator. “8ir,” said he, “for years I have been trv(ng to find some one belonging to that ship to return thanks for tne great cour- | tesy shown to me on that occasion. At last I am enabled todo so, sir—I was the | man on the cask!"'—Spare Moments, —— Le Bing \nm. a Chinese athlete, says that his extraordinary strength is due to | his diet, which consists chiefly of boiled | rice and boiled ducks’ heads. The brains of the duck, he asserts, are very strength- { ening. i= NEW TO-DAY! CONSUMPTION To THE EDITOR : I have anabsolute Cure for CONSUMPTION and all Bronchial, Throat and Lung Troubles, and all conditions of Wasting A By its timely use thousands of apparent.. peless cases have been permanently cured, So proot-positive am [ of its power to cure, [ | will send #REE to anyone aflicted, THREE | BOTTLES of my Newly Disco d Remedies, upon receipt of Expressand Postoflice address. ays sincerely yours, T A, SL()L SO When writing th CUT THIS OUT. LAWRENCE The only one by which you can make a gar- ment without trying on. PERFECT PATTERNS. 1079 MARKET STREET. CRAY ¢ Saves dandear sl a » skin. Covers BALD spots. or FADED HAIR RESTORED to Jouthiul coleg and heantg, by DE. IR HLALFH