The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 11, 1897, Page 28

28 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 11, 1897. interesting grow the Seemingly im: re put together | More and more color studies in millinery. vossible hues and tones on hats to create a harmonious whole, | but these daring color blendings sound worse than they look. In one instance | there is a union of bluet and purple, the former showing a purplish tinge which makes accord possible. Red Lats bzve | been in favor and very becoming to ma Yashion has again veered around to laces, which for a time were supplanted by tissues. Tulle and chiffon are much | worn mixed with lace of different grades. | Acream lace decorates a largze Panama | Leghorn hat which may be worn on an outdoor occasion or in a carriage with al light gown of organdy, dimity or any | gauzy textured material. The straw is! new in weave and looks very much like a | coarse Leghorn. The broad brim is tacked against the crown at the back and covered with white | and purple lilacs and a rosette of peacock- biue ribbon. The ribbon is twisted around | the crown and made into another large | rosette at the right side. The lace is ar- ranged over the twists of ribbon in a standing and a drooping frill, the latter | extending quite to the edge. For a young lady there is a fine cream- white chip in mod:fied poke siyle, the crown of which is almost covered with pink roses, bows, black wings and chiffon. | In a large dressy hat of Milan straw the | brim is united with a high black crown | Cream lace is arranged to stand in a frill | about the crown and to fall softly over the brim, a bow of the lace being formed at the back. A soft knot of peacock-blue taffeta is oversuadowed at the right side by a bunch of white plumes and a bunch of vioiets are fixed at ths opposite side. | Pink roses are arranged with soft lace at the back. The bluet and purple combinations are a'so seen onwhite Neapolitan straw sailors. A fancy bow of twisted loops of taifeta ribbon of both colors is arranged at the right side, while at the left side are clus- ters of white roses and bluets. Under the | brim at the back is more flowers and foli- | age and a twist of ribbon. The sailor hats seem to be the favorite | for young ladies and misses, and some are | very prettily tiimmed, while others of fine Milan straw are worn on outing occa- sions, and even appear when least ex- | pected, and are severely plain when the | costume calls for a more dressy hat. Rather a picturesque-looking hat is of large shape in white chip with a bigh crown. White moire ribbon is arranged about the crown, formed at the left side in a bow, from which spring e white tips. Under the brim at the left side of the front a bunch oi pink roses nestles against the hair. There is a simple and dainty white | straw sailor that may be appropriately worn with a bluet canvas blaz:r or Eton suit. Bluet tule rosettes set with a pretty pin circle the crown, and in front at escn Small aide rises a pair of white wings. ] rosettes are tucked under the the back | On the Fourth, or, more properiv sneak- 1 dudge George L. Bunn on L-cad-] : | ing Jrumps. A short time ego we called the attention of | our readers 10 oue of, if not, the best sriicle that ever was written on the discard. was | from the pe of Miuneapo- | lis. Theart we present 1o-dey is irom the pen of Mr. Briggs’ playing partner, Hen. | George L. Bunn, on the menagement of trumps. Whether 10 open a hend with a trump or plain suit frcm certein holdings is d. This nrticle thould Ve care- | riad and preserved by oll whist stu- | WIAT TO LEAD FROM FIVE TRUMPS AND A FIVE- CARD PLAIN SUIT. Our views as (o the trump lead from hands coniaining trump strength and strengtn or Jength in a plain suit probably do not differ ms- terially from the views of the majority of mod- eru whist writers. On the quesiion of wher 10 lead the trump from such » hand, or f deavor to establi: e suit, v said in the way of attempt general rule; five-ca five or more trumys are held b; e the trump ead where the suit is estab- | d or where it can be established with the | assistence fr(m | artner that may be expected. | W here the plain suit is headed by ace, king, or | king, queen. or queen, jack, 10, or jack, it scems strong demand the trump lcad, and we to include suits headed by ace, ¢ jack, 10, or ace, jack, 10,in the same cate- gory There are various combinations weaker than those mentioned, which strong enough to make a trump lead the p if the five trumps are strong enough to war- rant the expectation of being able to exhaust the adversaries without being subjected to more than one force before this 1s accom- plished. Of course the size of the cards of the other suits in the leader’s hand will have rome ivfluence in Ceeiding his line of pliy. WITH FIVE TRUMPS AND A FOUR-CARD PLAIN y the leader, iough 10 just re inctined slightly yet | Where the leader's hand contains five [ trumps and a four-card plain suit the question is more d.flicult. Where the trumps are small and the plain suit weak, with no strength or little strength in the other suits, we consider the lead of the plain suit the con of play. Where the trumps are strong enoug 10 warrant the expectation of exhausting the sdversaries end beiug left with at least onc long trump and the lead we are inclined to sdvise a trump lead; this does away with the | dissdvantage of leading from n weak suit and | information is frequently obtained which en- | ables the leader to discover his y strong suit and lead 10 it. In meny cases the leader will be able to | adopt a li Dhatis a favorite with St, Paul end players; where the | trump suit is he by sce, king, queen, age, king, jack, or ace, queen, juck, combinations which require the lead of a winning trump, and the plain suit of four or more cards not established, tie leader may lead one trump and then change to his long plain suit; it his partner geis the lead, he will return the trump 1f he has strength in the suit led or a greatsuit of his own, which he can show his partner | either by lead or diszard. If he is short in his partner’s suit, he can play to make small trump by returning that suit, or if he hoidsan | unestabiished long suit, which he cannot show his partner except by & lead, and which can be easily established by Jeading il, he way, in rere cases, refuse to return either the trumpor his partner’s suit, but play to establish und bring in his own suit. This line of play requires a preity high order of whist judgmen:, and the player will o well 10 canvays & situation pretty thoroughe ly tefore he tekes the gawme out of his part- ner’s hands, PLAIN SUIT LEAD, THEN SWITCH TO TRUMP. Itis we.l to notice here what may be called the reverse of this method; with an estab- Jished pl suit or one from which it is proper 10 lead & winning card, it is ofteu, if not always, good play to ind:cate that suit by one lead before leading a truwp. Especially | enjoying a considerable vogue. | four trumps and [ besitating 'y advise the lead of a trump, ex- ing, the Fifth of July, a great numberjof delightful frocks were commented upon at the various rescrts, and miles upon miles of lace were employed to assist in | making them beautiful, for lace appeared | on gowns of mustin, of organdy, chiffon, mousseline de soie, and on those of grena- | dine; besides it was in evidence on many parasols and hats. Pink and violet were seen in combina- | tion as well as mauve and blue, but never were they unsuccessfully blended. A Crepe de Chine Quite unique is a confection composed of white crepe de chine, worn by a beauti- ful young matron, on it are embroidered exquisitely delicate pink rose buds that look as though scattered over the fabric; it is encircled round the bottom by a deep knotted silk fringe. The dress is built over white silk, the skirt being perfectly free from the lining. The low, square cut bodice has a vest of soft fine lace over pink silk. The sleeves look like bouquets of roses and roses encircle the neck with their foliage. The latast Parisian news dwells on the charms of white muaslins made with clouds of luce about the bodices, of white flow- ered mous:elines de soie over straw-col- ored silks and white Greek tulle over white or pale-hued satins. In the same category are mentioned the smart tailor- made piques. Numerous are the muslins seen with in- numerable flounces, but almost as many have narrow pleatings in the front of the skirt that widen out considerably at the center of the back, for they are very pop- ular. White alpaca adorned with bands of guipure and several rows of the narrow black velvet at the bottom of the skirt are Similar bands are likewise inserted at the hips, and the bodices are formed of -uipure, | ending in tabs below the waist. These dresses are invariably lined with soft- finished silk. Lace Jackets and Over- Bodices. The jackets were really intended mere- | Iy to be worn as bodices during the first part of the season, but some of fashion's | leaders found that they woulu look ex-| tremely weil over silk mulle and mousse- | Line de sole creations. As a resul:, they | uad the shape slightly changed, making them drop slightly below the waist line, and all have short postilion backs and are | tight fittin, but are loose in iront, skowing s>ft vests. Young women wear, usually, white lace | jac! | beautiful foulard silk, and completed at the waist and throat with soft wrinkled bands of lettuce-green satin. A deep band of blue velvet gave the necessary touch of color. All said and done, nothing is so lovely as pure white for those whose coloring and figures make 1t allowable, and at tho Te'e des Fleurs those gowned entirely in white received the most com- pliments. The bats worn with such Chit-Chat. Foulards are being made with pleated skirts and white satin tquares are ap- pliqued upon the bodices and bordered with guipure. Very smart are dresses ot gray beige made with bodices pouched back and front and completed with hats of silvery g1ay straw, having only a white paradise plume and a bow as trimming. Insertions of lace and embroidery are seen on all muslin gowns, both white and cream, as well as tea color, being in great demand. Tea jackets retain their popularity and one of a turquoise blue figured silk has a pleated sack back edged with scallops of lace. Down the front extends a cascade of fine embroidered chiffon ana lace. Lace tassels ana a sprightly bow of tur- quoise blue ribbon complete it in front and the turn down collar hasdeep pointed ends under which is tied a lace cravat The silk sleeves fit closely, excepting at the top, where the puff is made effective by the introduction of some lace. silk Ascot tie is worn also. Children are seldom if ever now dressed in mourning, excepting for their parents, and even then no crepe is ever u-ed. Silk petticoats are being made with sev- eral flounces of different hues that can be buttoned on. This is a happy idea as the hue in every toilette can be consulted, and remnants of silk of a suitable length for such purposes should be now selected as | they will be found useful and such skirts will be worn all this winter and thisis a good time to purchase. The beautiful silvery gray feather boas so popular in Paris at the beginning of the season have Leen already discarded, by the smartly dressed women, as they are too zenerally seen. Rather large buckles are being worn at the back of many waists. They are usually oblong in shape, but sometimes are broken up into three, and for this style green enameled shamrocks are much liked as a design. The buckles in the back do not interfere with those worn in front, and as belts are required over basques as well as without them the de- We have bere two very pretty costumes. While simple in their construction, they are suitable for almost any occasion. The one on the leit is made of pale ecru India silk, with sprays of green, and is trimmed in dark-green ribbon and lace inserting. The hat is of ecru straw, trimmed in green chiffon and variegated foliage. The figure on the right is a very dressy toilet for receptions or calling. ; waist and sleeves are slso plaited. The waist s elaborately trimmed with violet-colored velvet ribbon and embroidery. The hat is of yellow straw, trimmed with white tips of lilac ribbon. It is mauve crepe de Chine, with sun-plaited skirt. The parasol is of white silk, trimmed with lac2. The s, but their mothers and grand- | toilets were nearly all composed of white | Considering the etiquette of mourning, mothers show much appreciation of those | tulle, with long, sweeping white ostrich | six months is now considered an all-suffi- of black lace or stripes of biack insertion. | The charming and softening effect of lace | bas been underestimated by many, unii. | just such garments have ecxcited their | sincere admiration. plumes. Others were of I[:a!ian straw, elaborately trimmed with flowers. On this occasion were likewise seen some quaint gauzed silk pelerines in delicately | ! | tinted blues, made with rows of cording. | ribbon, and black lawn to treated is being cient time to wear deep moarning. Crepe de chine, chiffon and mousseline de soie may be worn, but the only trimming al- lowed on such fabrics is dull black silk Equally popular are the lace over- ‘ They were - really pretty and much ad- | much worn this summer, as are also skirts bodices, one being of alternate stripes of | guipure and Valenciennes. It was worn over a biue and whi!ei mired when worn over muslin frocks. the throat of every one was.a tulle lace- edged cravat. MARCELLA. | At | of black India silks and skirts of black as such skirts look well with a A black lawn, short Eton or cutaway jacket. mand is considerable, but it will not last, as the style is an ugly one. The latest novelty is to have the feather boas match the tone of the headgear, and they are not fastened at the throat. In- stead a handsome ornament holds them | in place at che waist line. Close ruffles of | black lisse are much liked. They torm a | cascade round the throat, falling in two | ends in’front. With delicate summer toilettes white lisse, lace edged, is substi- | is this true when tue le: der has an este suit and but four trumps. It informs your partoer that your trump lead is made for that | | suit, snd you run no risk of his refusing to | return the trump or of his forcing you by the lead of his own suit, if he hes no trump to give you. This line of play isalmost obliga- tory among plavers who lead a trump from three three-card suits, as where the suit is not first shown & four-card trump lead is generally taken to indicate thet holding, and the partner of the leader may rcise some discretion s 10 whether or not to return the trump. FIVE TRUMPS AND NO LONG PLAIN SUIT. From a hand containing five or more trumps and no suit of more than three cards, we un- cept 1n r1are cases where the leader holds a short suit as king, queen, jack, king, queen | alone, or queen, jack, 10, accompan ed by | weukness in the other suits; in these cases theshort suit lead may occasionaliy be made w0 advantage. We have no sympathy for | those players who refuse to lead a trump be- | cause * hold nothing to exhaust trumps for.” hat is not the point; but even if it were, the | argument is founded on a wrong premise: | the game of whist is a partnersnip affair, and ths player who plays his own hand alone has acquired an erroneous iden that will be fatal to nis tuccess as a player. But the best res- | sop for the trump lead is that it is the only | pley that is nota shot in the dark; the only | play that is based upon anything but pure | Tuck FOUR TRUMPS AND THREE THREE-CARD SUITS. This brings us logically to u consideration of hands co ing four trumps and three three-card suits. We de not intena here to enter into an analysis of the comparative mer- its of the trnmp lead and the forced lead from his character of hand. favor the trump lead, as we have frequently stated in com- meniing upon the play of various deals pub- lished in this column. We a.Jow some excep- tions to this rule—such suits as king, queen, jack; queen, jack, 10; queen, jack, 9, and occasionally, where the trumps are very small, queen, jack and any small card, or jack, 10 and & small may be opened, where the balance of the hand is weak. We object to the lead of queen from queen and one small, | or 10 at the head of two or three, and more | perticularly to the lead oi any smaller card at | the top of a three-card suit. Tne lead from | ace, king or queen and two others we regard | as disadvantageous. We nave indicated above | our chief argument in favor of the trumplea. | 1t is not that it is a gooa lend in itself, except | where the plain suils are strong, but that a | lead from a shortsuit is worse; it is & choice between evils, the le-ser of which we believe to b2 the trump lexd. We are well aware that our views in this re- | spect are not shared by xll writers or expert players, but we are not entirely witnout sup- port. Cavendish, Hamilton, Trist and Briggs are a quartet in whose company we are not asnamed to be found. Their views on ihis question are, we believe, identical with those above expressed. Mr. Work is the only mod- ern writer who advises against the trump lead, though there are many fine players who are with bim. Our opinion is not, however, based upon those of the gentiemen men- tioned. We experimented for years with both lines of play, and discarded the short-suit lead only affer becoming convinced {rom the results of experiments in actual play that the lead of the trump was better. The old ides that & trump lead must invariably be re- turned finds no place with us. It is senseless, especially in the case of an original lead from four trumps. The decision of whether or not to return the trump must rest in the sound aiscretion of the leader’s partner. ¥ TRUMPS AND A FOUR OR FIVE CARD SUIT. ith four trumps and & suit of four or more | count. five at least in the leader’s hand, te preferred. Where tne plain suitis estab- lished it may be shown and a trump led then. Where the trumvs are ace, king, queen and one small, or ace, king, jack and onesmall, and the suit estabiished, one lead of trumps followed by the lend from the plain suit is good play. Where the hund is strong in ali the suits an criginal fead from a trump isoften beiter than tne plain suit lead. A lead from three trymps or less is justifiable only by strength in all the suits, or by one great suit and protection in eact of the others. We have attempted to giv~ s bare outline of the most Interesting and important subject in whist play. What we have said applies only to the original lead from a hand. “Gavendish” on the Lead From King, Jack, Ten. In arecent article to the Field of Lonaon on the subject of the better lead from suits head- ed by queen, jack, 10, and king, jack, 10, Cavendi-h says: ‘From king, knave, 10, ete., or from king, knave, 10, 9, the lowest of the sequence.is led in order that partzer may not finesse if he holdsuce. If he holds queen he should not play 1t on 10 led, as the lead is obviously from king, knave, 10. With regard to the above combinetion it has 16 be observed that all vlayers are agreed to lead tue lowest of an under sequence—that is, of a sequence not heading the suit, as then partner is not tempt- ed to finesse. Hamilton Leads edvise the lead of fourth best from king, knave, 10 and small, and as the players of the Hamilton Club, Phlsaelphis, have won numerous maiches their proposals must be treated with respect. “I have already shown tnat the guiding principle in the choice of high cards is to lead acard which ensures eventual command, If small is led from king, kunave, 10, ete., the first three tricks in the suit may be adaversely won by ace, queen, 9, and the leader may not com- mand his suit until aiter the third round. | Therefore, I cannot approve of the ebolition of the lead of 10 from king, knave, 10, etc. But as the Heamilton team recommends it I have consulted Mr. Whitfield on the subject. He says he cannot come to a definite conclusion. The decision depends on the relitive vaiues of Laving tie besteird on the third or fourth round of a suit. This tends to confirm me in the original opinion that the 10 is the beuter original lead, us giving the cerwain commana f ihe third round. *On the Hamilton plan the 10 is led from the queen, knave, 10, etc.,, and partner is at once zpprised of tbis fuct and finesses nce. When queen is led originaliy partner can - cluding king, or both ace and king. This seems to me to b: the sirongest argument in favor of the Hamilton tead. Furiher invesii- gation may show that these advantages out- weigh those of the lead of 10 from king, knave, 10. etc.,, but at present I am in favor of the commonly recognized lead.” | The Brooklyn Eagle or\'tl\,e Ten Liead. Cavendish is not alone in his opinion that the orthodox lead irom king, jack, 10, and queen, jack, 10, shonld stay where the authori- ties put them, until it is } roven by actual play that a change is Letter. The whist editor of the Brooklyn Esgle says: “The following aiscussion between Bunn and Work in regard to the new and old 10 lead will be of interest to whist players generally. In addition to Mr. Bunn of St. Pa N. Trist of New Orleans and P.J. Tormey; whist editor of the Sun Francisco Call, are decidedly oppcsed to the imnovation introduced by Philadelphia players of leading 10 from queen, i hed | cards, the lead of the plain suit is generally to 1 jack, 10, and fourth best f~om king, jack, 10, From the practice and opinions of some of the best players in Brooklyn and the East, it is doubtful if the new lead is as universally ule}l as the Telegraph is ready to believe. A suit headed by the sequence of queen, jack and 10 is not so quickly cleared by the lead ot the 10 as by the old lead of the queen in many iu- stances, as the lead of the former does not in- vite or force a high ¢ second Land. “Evidence of the value of the highest of the sequence In clearing up a long suit is the long-established custom of leading jack at the head of a sequence in trumps, such as jack, 10, 9 and more than four in suit. Itisthe ex- perience of every player that the lead of the fourth best from king, jack and 10 is & fre- quent trick loser, as it does not clear the com- manding cards outof the way on the secord round, the 9 frequently winning, leaving the quecen and ace still sgamst. The principal reason for making this change in the lead _nl the 10 was to simplify the queen lead, but in practice very little confusion or loss results from the fact that the partner cannot tell whether the queen means queen, jack, 10, or king, queen and more than four in suit.” Whist as a Home Game. It is because whist 1s a great home game that it endears itsell to the hearts of our veople and renders itself worthy of our re- gard. It is because it is the means by which our boys may be kept under those tender and loving intluences which, thank God, are and always will be the distinguishing chearacter- 1stic of our American homes, that whist ap- peals witn intensified force to our zeal and devotion. It should be our object to bring this game into every home in America. We should make it fit to take and keep a place there; consequently we should be carful in the enactment of the laws by which it is gov- erned.— Eugene 8. Elljott, founder of the American Wnist League. The Morality of Whist. The fact is that whist, by virtue of its intrin- sic qualities, is neither a saloon nor a gam- bling game. It is too intellectual; it requires too great mental skill, too high an order of thought, and has too little of the element of | luck, to ever Le favored by the barroom loafsr or the gambler. A man may throw dice or play such_trivial games as euchre or cinch when half drunk, but he cannot play whist unless his mental faculties are in good work- ing order; consequently whist is no game for the saloon. The gambler, on the other hand, wants a game where the cards can be stacked, or that is so short as to promote- heavy win- nings; but whist is a long game and the cards are not easily manipuiated <0 as to defraud, hence the gambler has no use for whist. Butif whist i> not a game for the saloon or the gambling-hell, it is, on the other hand, a game for the home; a game in which any bright chitd may innocently indulge and that will assist in training his mental faculties to such a condition of excelience as will mate- rially aid him in the duties of after-life. We wish that we could see this game iniroduced into every American home, for we believe that it would do more to keep our boys out of da gerous places and put them under saie and en- nobling influences than almost any other agency.—Cassius M. Paine ia Whist. Milton G. Work’s Opinion. In answer to correspondents to the Evening Telegraph of Philadelphia Mr. Work gives his opinion on the following points, which are well worth noting: We do not favor playing king from king and one small, second hand on a small card led, unless very desirous of obtaining the ! lead. We believe in the ace, queen finesse, but not in the ace, jack, unless you desire to be led up 1 in the other suits, and have some trump strength. With four trumps headed by ace, partner having signaled, we would take the ruff with the third best, lead the ace and foliow with the lowest, We believe in opening a four-card plain suit headed by king, queen, with the fourth best. | We do not consider this a c.ose case or worthy of s rious discussion. | We consider the tovo of nothing as an in- formation-giving play, as it always negatives the holding of & 1ace card and affirms such holding when a small card is led. | We believe in leading from five trumps ina | | hand in which you have no other long suit and no good strengthening card. You would have 10 guess as (0 your partner’s suit origin- | ally, with the chances three to one against you. Wnen trumps are out you will have some informaion to guide you. We advocate the three echo und have found it a great trick winner. | A few weeks ago we published an analysis from General A. W. Drayson of the best lead to | | make from king, queen and two small. He says it is eight to seven in favor of the king 1ead.—ED. What s the Best Liead? A few weeks ago wa received and answered the question what we would lead jrom the hand given below. Jonn T. Mitchell in the Chicago Times-Herald does not agree with us as 1o the “proper l:ad.” But the following from his pen will be of interest to our many whist readers: A hand held several weeks ago at the Scran- | ton Whist Ciub was pussed around among | some thirty-one whist editors and experts { by J. W. Dusenbury for an opinion as to the proper lead. It was a somewhat remarknble | hand, and it is gratifying to note (in a recent | issue of the Scrauton Tribune) that neerly half | (fiteen) of the editors aud experts were rgreed on the proper lead,and ouly four different | leads were suggested in all. The hand was as | ! follows: Hearts deciared trumps. Clubs—A. Mearts—A, K, 9, 4. spades—A, b, Diamonds—a, J, 8, 5, 2. The fifteen who named the four of heartsas | the lead were: Fisher Ames, Newton, Mass.; Charles E. Coffin, Indianapolis; T. E. Otis, Newark, N. J.; W. H. Barney, Providence; B. , St. Louis; G. L. Bunn, St Paul: | Mi.chell, Chicago; G. A. La Vie, Brook- | i lyn; G. T. Rogers, Plainfield; C. A. Henr!ques, New York; E. C. Fletcher, Newton; Whist | Publishing Company, Milwaukee; H. Jones (Cavendish), London; J. H. Baldwin, Ch:cago; J. E. 8:hwab, Nashvilie. The five of diamonds or four of hearts was named by C. D. Hamilton, Easton, and M. C. Work, Philadelphia. The five of diamonds was named by N. B. Trist, New Orleans; R. H. Weems, Brooklyn; | P. J. Tormey, San Francisco; H. M. Wheelock, Fergus Falls; E. L Smith, Albany; G. W. Morse, Boston; A. Remington, Tacoma, and two unnamed. The king of hearts was named by R. F. Fos- ter, New York; T.Schwarz, Chicago, and W. 8. Fenollosa, Salem. The four of hearts or ace of diamonds by T. A. Whelan, Baltimore. The ace of diamonds by Walter Read, To- ronto. Giving the gentlemen whose opinions ere di vided two ballots, the vote would stand tnus: | Four of hearts Five of diamonds King of hearts. Ace of diamond: The most noticeable feature in the vote is that next to the regulation lead of the four of hearts comes the fourth best lead from ace and four others, instead of the second regula- tion lead ot the ace of dizmonds, which actu- ally comes last. Itisevident that the ace tead israpid y being shelved. Another noticeablo feature is that exponents of opposite schools vole for the same card, while exponsnts of tne same school vote for diff-rent caras. {etc., than those I once saw of ivory, tuted, being extremely becoming. Ere lang it is predicted that all silk em- broidery will drive ont that done with paillettes and imitation jewels, as this style has been completely overdone. Asa result it may traly be said to be extremely vulgar, excepting when the workmanship is very superior. However, even now the best dressed women are seiecting in pre- ference to all giy effects embroideries done on black in steel or silver, and on wkite satin I must admit that beavy tin- sel embroidery is still in vogua. The newest brushes, combs, ete., for my lady’s dres-ing table are made in tur- quoise or coral on tortoise shell. They come in beautiful designs, and yet gold, silver or ivorv retain their place in vopu- lar favor, gold and silver being so service- able, but ivory breaks easily. However, no bride could have a lovelier set of hnuh(se):, n the backs was a moot artistic mono- gram executed ina tu-quoise biue enamel, just outlined with a thread of gold. An- other set, made of tortoise shell, had the crest done in dull zold. At this season our household linen re- ceives its due share of attention and for the moment quilts are interesting topics of conversation, as our artistic needle- women produce many wonderful speci- mens, showing rare skill and ingenuity. I have just heard of a linen quilt of fine quality, and on it is wrought an odd de- sign conspicuous for its graceful ara- besques grouped round a great Hower bas- ket; gold bobbin silk isemployed. Another is a hemstitched quilt in pure white linen, a remarkable example of old Spanish work, for on the white ground are to be seen a huge star, a set of scales and deli- cate traceries defined with light stems, tendrils and small flowers, the whole de- sign enlivened by biras that appear to be flying in all directions. The prevailing colors used are vellow, blue and red. These are blended in the loose twist stitch and French knots of the needlework as | graceful as possible. — THE ROMAN EPICURE. Fond of Dishes Rare, Lostly and Indi- gestible—A Doubtful Condiment. Almost any dish which had to recom- mend it rarity, costliness, indigestibility and, to our way of thinking, nastiness, was sure to take with the Roman epicure. And, if he were unable to make it costly any other way, he would add powdered precious siones or gold dust. Nero dined on one occasion from a peacock which was sprinkled with. diamond dust, and specimens of that bird dressed with gold or with crushed pearls was by no meansa rarity at the triclinia of the moneyed Romans. A dish ofparrots’ tongues was a great delicacy. But a dish of parrots’ tongues which had been capable wuen in their proper place of framing words was of almost of in- calculable value, which increased in a direct ratio with the vocabularies of the defunct parrots. Another bird for which the Roman epicure was in the habit of | paying fabulous prices was the phenecop- | tnx, which i believed to have been the ; ptarmigan. It had its home inthe most | 1 orthern part of Scotland and Norway, £nd as this made it tard to get at the Ko- mans appreciaied it all the more and put itin the same rank with ostriches, buz- zards and peacocks. The tonguesof these birds were especially prepared, tocether with the brains, and took the place which | a hors d’ceuvre would now take. A description of garum, the black-green auce of the Romans, would not be out of piace here. It was a species of universal condiment, but iis principal use was for fish. The recipe is as iollows: Let the cook take several fishes, it matters not much which, but mackerel are the best for the purpose. Let him take ont their en- trails and put them in vinegar and leave them there for ten days. Then let them be taken out and aried and powdered in a mortar with pepper, frumenty, roots of dandelion, mint, thyme, sace and a little | ginger, and well mixed, after which the powder must be put ir jars, together with hon and leit to ferment during several wee When ready for the table it must be mixed with Falernian wine.—Boston Transcript. e — Pens are easily cleaned and kept in order by a simple device designed to be attached ‘o the inkwell, consisting of ex- pansibie body portion of spring metal 1o fit the mouth of the well, with an up- waraly extending lip, formed of layers of fabric wbich can be quickly replaced when they become dirty. charge of robbery. TURNED LOOSE ON THE WORLD The Queer Antics of a Woman Who Seems to Be a Lunatic. Mrs. Addie Farnum Testifies Against Conductor R. D. Jackson, The Young Man Promptly Acquitted and the Woman Sfeverely Scored by the Court. One of the most peculiar cases In the eriminal history of this City was heard yesterday morning before Police Judge Conlan. Ten days ago a woman named Addis Farnum procured the arrest of R. D, Jackson, a streetcar conductor, on a She claimed he had stolen her purse, containing $100, ana some valuable jewelry. Jackson was taken into custody, and after some time behind the bars he was liberated on substantial bonds. Mrs. Farnum, the complainant, was the only witness examined when the case was calied yesterdav. Sheisa comely looking woman, a trifle over 32 years of age, witn beautiful white teeth, which she shows continually in her hysterical way of laughing. Her large dark eyes danced about in her head while she was testify- ing and her every word and movement inaicated mania. Prosccuting Attorney Mogan asked her to relate how tbe defendant had robbed her, and she did so in her own disjointed way, contradicting in one seatence the ut- terances of a moment before. The unfortunate woman confessed to having sworn falsely to her residence, and she could not recollect ever swearing that she Jost $100 and jeweiry when her purse is alleged to have been taken from her. Attorney Julius Kahn, for the defense, humanely refrained from being severe in his cross-examination, simply asking the woman if it was not a fact that she had been robbed quite often of her purse and whether she had not on numerous occa- sions gone about the City borrowing money a dollar at a time. The witness acquiesced to all thisin a cheerful, even hilarious, manner. At this stage Prosecuting Atitorney Mogean addressed the court, suying: “Your Honor, I oniy put this witness on the stand that vou might judge for vourseif what kind of a person she is, I believe she is crazy and dangerous to be at large.”’ Ir dismissing the case Judge Conlan took occasion 10 say: *I do not think the prosecution has es- tablished a cagze. In regard to the com- vlaining witness I really do mot knuw what to make of her. She is either in- sane or the most brazen liar I have ever encountered. I cannot punish her for anvthing excepting to canse her arrest on a charge of perjury, ana [ hardly like to do that.” The entire proceedings seemed a huge joke to Mrs. Farnum, who, when to'd she might go, wedged her way toward che defendant. I want to shake hands with you,” she said, laughingly. “I did it alifor you. I had the case dismissed.”” But there was somebody else with the unfortunate Jackson. His wife, red of eye from weeping and humiliated at the unhappy predicament through which she and her husband had just passed, stepped up to the woman who had caused her sorrow. ‘‘Madam,” she said sternly, “you will have to desist; this man is my husband.’’ A policeman put Mrs. Farnum out of the courtroom, and she joyfully proceeded to the nearest side or ‘“iadies’ entrance’” to a bar-room. The sad feature to this affair is that R. D. Jackson, the voung conductor who was acquitted, has lost his position on ac- count of the unmerited and unsought-for scandal NEW 7TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. (ITYOF DRY GOODS COMPANY. EXTRAORDINARY BARGAINS BiG REDUCTIONS IN THIS COLORED - DRESS - G0ODS! SEASON'S IMPORTATIONS, SPECIAL PRICES FOR THIS WEEK : $4.20 ALL-WOOL SUITINGS red $7.50 NOVELTY SUITINGS reduced to. uced to... ...$2.45 Full Suit $4.50 Full Suit $9.00 and $10.50 NOVELTY SUITINGS reduced to. .$5.70 Full Suit $22.50 HIGH-GRADE NOVELTIES reduced to........$9.00 Full Suit REMNANTS Of all kinds in lengths of from 2to 10 yards CUT DOWN to less THAN HAL! E PRICE: LADIES’ READY-MADE SUITS. In order to close out our Ready-made Suits W E OFFER THIS WEEK our $9, $12 and $15 Suits at $5.00, $7.50 and $9.00. COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATT=NDED TO. CITY OF PARIS DRY GOODS COMPANY SE. Corner Geary Street and Grant Avenue. SUPERFLUOU% HAIR ON THE FEMALE FACE, On men’s cheek~ above the beard line. moles, warts, biackheads, red noses, freckies and ali facial blem- ishes permatiently and pa destroved by the EL NEEDLE OPEKATION, stamp for our free book. CHICAGO ELECTROLYSIS “ 613 Parrott Biding, San Francisco. Hours, 9 10 4; ~undays, 10 to 1, SUPERFLUOUS HAIR S REMOVED BY THE ELECT ROLYSIS O, Taylor, over “The M PilILADE] PHI 1170 Market street, con " rooms % z means of (he eiectric needle, wmmnéapn'f:dor ki Dicles, warts, wrinkles, blackheads, ireckies, birthe marks and other facisl blemishes also removed, Permanency guaranteed. Hours 1104 p. a, ©0-0-0-00-0-0-0-0-0000 AN EXCELLENT mAL Properly prepared ana promptly served, can always be obtained in THE GRILL ROOM OF THE Decidedly the g2 PALACE Dining Apart- ment in town. OPP. PALACK MO | K] Telephone 570, R, L aireet. “Teléphono *Church 35 o0 9 VAlencis