The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 16, 1897, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY » MAY 16, 1897. : & BOLERO CAPES ARE THE NOVELTY OF THE SEASON. This elegant combination of bolero and cape is the invention of Paris modistes to save the filing gathered and beruffled sleeves ot the season. The bolero is confined at the waist in this model by a wide draped waistband, but can be cut short and left free if preferred. The material is satin or moire beiow, also the exquisite transparent canvas goods showing the bright silk lining. The sleeves are kilted frills over & plain silk foundation. We hear daily about the charms of the country and seaside, but until next| month the exodus will not be general. | Last week passed very pleasantly, the | young people having enjoyed the dance, the gingerbread fete and the charity con- cert, in which so many pretty girls took part. At each and every one of these affairs were worn some charming frocks, remark- | able for both their chic and beauty. Ido not wonder that many of our leading | dressmakers are being almost rushed to death, for three of the trousseaux now in | their hands are most elaborate and ex- quisite in all their details, besides an un- usually large number of dainty confec- tions will accompany most of our matrons and maids to various resorts. Indeed, I | know of several cases where for a single | customer a dressmaker has to design a | dozen gowns at once. Itisan excellent | plan to leave with one's dressmaker orders for gowns to be sent at stated intervals all | through the summer, as if she fits the lin- ings and has made for you for some time, | she can complete them usuaily if you run | up for a day occasionally. But what most of you all want to know about concerning | fashions are The Latest Facts. It is very noticeable this season that many women show no inclination to have their ekirts ornamented with flounces or frills, but I must insist that the plain «kirt is distinctly out of fashion, and even | if we are short and plump. there is no use in our disputing fashion’s edict, for in some form or other trimmings must ap- pear on our skirts, and if flounces are not to our liking we can have insertions, vel- | vet, silk or satin ribbons employed. Some of the prettiest of skirts are those having | gored pieces, guileless of fullness, flounced 10 the waist. Such models absorb enor- mous quantities of material, which should be of the best organdy or muslin, and no novice in the art of dressmaking should attempt to handle them. Besides are | skirts which really have the appearance of the coachman’s capes, set one over the other, with raw edges, and also much in | vogne is the triple skirt, and as it is | stitched round the laps, at the knees and | the hem it is far easier to make up success- fully and quite as becoming to some figures as the other styles. The Use of Pique Is on the increase by the great dress- makers, as you can readily judge when I | tell you thatit 1s being used as a founda- | tion for the most elaborate embroideries | of jet anu colored silks.. One correspon- dent says, writing from Paris: *I saw an entire front of a bodice made of pique; | but it only appeared as the foundation, for it was worked all over a jour with jet and gold thread, but intermixed, as far trimming was concerned, with white satin. At the back this was liberally trimmed with bands of point lace, and the high collar was supported by bows of green ribbon, the sleeves having white satin epaulettes and cuffs, turning back from the band, covered with lace, a row of white buttons fastening the bodice on the left side.” A bright girl could make something quite unusually stylish and fetching by acting on the suggestion given in -these few lines, and indeed those who are clever | { braided with great effectiveness. | ness, for in | just reaches the waist line. with their needles are in numerous cases providing themselves with exquisite bits of embroidery to be completed during the many hours that wonld otherwise be wasted at our summer resorts. Cashmere. For the past year this fabric has been steadily gaining in favor among our best- diessed women, for it not only makes up into excellent coats that fit and define the figure far better tnan did ever face cloth or any other sort of cloth, but, besides, it hangs beautifully as a skirt, and can be Numer- ous are the summer dresses of this mate- rial, and the most elaborate have inser- tions set a jour of lace designs. A word about the sac jacket. At last the tailors are learning how to cut it properly, and now are to be seen those that convey only a suggestion of loose- reality they fit the fizure closely, and are most becoming when tabbed round the waist. The artistic little jacket at present being worn by Ellen Terry in “Mme. San Gene” has created quite a sensation. It is green in color and has a glittering fringe that This is worn | with an ample skirt of a soft fine buff cloth. The style is most becoming to Miss Terry's figure, it being set in innum- merable gathers around the waist. Such a skirt is especially suitable for tall, slender women, but the number of yards of material required for its evolution is sim- | ply appalling. However, we can readily understand the charms possessed by this model when worn with a perfectly tight bodice that is laced down the back. Such a dress made of a most superior quality of | cream white satin, worn with a fichu of rare lace with sleoves that fit closely | edged with lace frills, furnishes a model we would do well to contemplate. An Evening Bonnet. For a decided brunette imagine the charms of an evening bonret made of gold embroidery, very open, which shows a rich crimson lining. A ruche of scarlet tutle edges it, and av one side of the quaint crown are scarlet wings, fastened with a loveiy diamond ornament. The early Victorian fashion of wide white ribbon bonnet-strings is said to be most becoming. ~ As a result an attempt is being made to have them worn. Cycling Hats Are many of them made of the finest pedal straw, and the Panama hats, which were worn Iast year by men, are being re- produced for the benefit of their wives and daughters, in many colors. A new shape called the 1897 has in ad- dition to the crown a curious bisetu that is a sort of rounded channel, which unites the crown and the brim. The crowns of many of ths manilla and Java cycling hats are surrounded with broad bands of velvet. In fact, every ome can suit herself, so great is the variety offered. 3 Veils. Speaking of hats reminds me that only 30,000 dois go to every meter (39 inches) of the latsst 1importation of French veiling. Naturally it will be in- jur.ous to the eyes, so it is pood news that the chiffon veiling without figures is 1 s0 equally becoming that it is to be more | fashionable than ever, but the market will | be flooded with new devices and combina- tions, woven borders and edgines being i numerous. The veilings that are com- { posed of two colors, one apparently woven | over the other, have arrived in this City. They ahve many dots. Chit-Chat. Several of our belles, who are busily preparing their trousseaux, worry not a little over the marking of their under- linen and napery. One who has but two initials is having them worked on her towels and napkins in plain raised satin stitch; they stand side by side and are quite small. Another has selected larger letters tnat are interlaced in an artistic but rather complicated manner; these are worked with both solid and open-laced stitches, Some also like for their table-cloths, sheets and piliowcases extremely large monograms; these are placed either in the center of the table-cloths, or in one cor- ner. However, individual taste should be exercised if satisfactory results are ex- pected. One artistic fiancee has designed all the models by which her linen is to be marked, and very beautiful will be the re- sult. The smart New York girls are having either their crests or theirinitials embroid- ered most exquisitely on their corset- covers, just over their hearts, and on their petticoats, just below the yoke, on the left side. Belts are richer than ever this season, and soine have two rows of ornamental buttons. Black satin and black moire, as well as the rich-looking fleur de soie, are in vogue, as all realize that a dark belt reduces, appsrently, the size of the waist. Belts of hand-carved leather are used for outing wear. Very fetching are some of the shirt- waists of mull, over which is worn a tiny bolero, with a large ruffle at the shoulder. This style of bolero is described as being three storied—the ruffle counts as the first, the second is of white lace and the third of the figured mull. One such dress is creamy mull sprayed with lovely blue rose buds, with their foliage. Both collar and sash were of blue and buff rib- bon, and had large loops and proportion- ate ends. This gown is owned by an ex- tremely slender young girl, and built en- tirely over buff satin, and is not an expen- sive frock, although very fair satin is be- ing sold for only 50 cents a yard in this City. In spite of the fact that weare con- stantly informed that a natural waist is more fashionable than a wasp-like one, all dressmakers and tailors continue to give the long slender lines and as small a waist as possible. The lines of braids in many of the latest jackets drew my attention to this fact, as tuey are cleveriy arranged to taper in at the waist and broaden out over the shoulder. Women should remem- ber that to have a jacket abnormally tight | at the waist will not make their figures | any smaller and a good fitter always al- lows an abundance of room above the bust. MARCELLA. NEW YORK NOTES. We are going back 1o the fashions of our grandmotkers in hats; that is, the fash- ions that were popular with tbhem when they were girls. The date of the particu- lar style of headgear which we must culti- vate is 1830, and really these arrangemes of the ola-time milliners are so pretty it quite reconciles us to forget that they are | not the latestideas of the milliners of | Paris. | In modified forms these hats are being | made with colored straw, jampot crowns and brims of white or black drawn tulle, which affect the empire shape, and are finished off with a ruche at the edge. The quaintness they give to youthful faces is only rivaled by the eloquencs of their ap- ance for elderly women. As yet the prin- cess bonnet is as little seen as the princess dress; but solemn assurances are given that it is only being ‘‘held back’ for the time being. The new shaded millinery ix delicious. There are crowns of violet velvet with brims of fancy mauve siraw trimmed with shaded stocks or feathery branches of lilac. The freshest of greens coquette with each other in many of the hats, toned by gerbes of shaking black velvet oats on fine green stems. Rose, coral and poppy reds would give fascinating effects if one were only sure that they would not grow common in time. Coarse yellow and ‘‘burnt” straws show quaint little Louis. Seize knots of wired narrow velvet ribbon and clumps of field flowers, while the Leghorn contiue to be resplendent with nodding white plumes snd half wreaths of roses resting on the hair. In a more sedate style might be mentioned an Em- | pire Leghorn hat lined with black satin | and trimmed with black ostrich plumes and variegated roses. Black and white mixtures are promi- nent, and many of the new tailor-made dresses have waistcoats of white vel- red, such as underpetticoats for red surah and overpetticoats of red taffetas or satin. ette. There also chemises and drawers of red cors! or surah. A pattern underskirt is of red Surah with small pleats, the over- petticoat of taffetas plisse soleil, with four small flounces scalloped. This, of course, is a fantastic novelty, as it 1s difficult to imagine any refined and elegani woman discarding her fine baptiste and lace garments, At this season of the year, with the merry twinkle of wedding bells so close at hand, the brides must not be forgotten. A very pretty idea for bridal costumes is to have the wedding dress trimmed with festoons of beautiful flowers, which are allowed to droop from the waist, like the garlands of long ago, pansies and roses and forget-me-nots being very often blended together. Then the whole cos- tume is veiled with one of the new gossa- mers, 80 delicate and diaphanous as to show the daintiness beneath, and the effect is simply charming. A novel'y of a more practical kind is tbe puzzle lock bracelet, the chain of which is secured by a lock formed of three revolving pleces engraved with figures or letters. Only by arranging these in some rates the revers and cuffs. by small capes. It is cut to fall just below the a charming model. 2. The jaunty little coat of this costume hi 1. Gray-green serge costume with black satin facings on revers. A white braid deco- perfectly plain coatsleeves, partly covered waist line in the back and rounds up in front to the straight revers. The decoratisn of large pearl buttons and the soft front completes veteen spotted with black. A practical “front” may be made of white accordion China silk trimmed with narrow Valen- ciennes lace. If a jeweled belt is worn with this any colored ribbon may forma “stock,” or a bow of cream lace may re- place it when = change is desirable. Very narrow black 'lace is often seen on the white, pink or lemon accordion vests, and very pretty they look. The jeweled zones must be really good 1o look anything but vulgar. The best way is to have a special design made and properly carried out by a good firm of jewelers. In Paris coats are much worn, while here the mantle struggles for supremacy. As a compromise between the two there is the sacque, and one recently seen is well worthy of description in detail. Red is 80 much in favor this year that sets of lingerie are being prepared all in | == - AR\ IRx | | waistband. Gold buttons on vest and skirt. same. Black taffeta rufile and waistband, ) g/ (e 3. Dress of gray ladies’ cloth with short bolero worn over a blouse of ruby-colored surah. This bolero is in turned back and cut to form crossed revers secured to the waist by steel buttons. 4. Rose-colored veiling dress, trimmed with cream-colored guipure insertion framed by tucks. 5. Green cashmere dress, composed of & foundation skirt, entirely covered with shaped flounces. Blouse corsage closed at the left. SPRING COSTUMES- FOR LITTLE MAIDS. 1. Mauve wool dress. The blouse opens upon a vest of orange cloth, cut low to show & plastron of white surah. Black satin cravatand 2. Toilette of tan serge with gathered vest of rose surah. The raised collar is lined with white surah and the straight neckband is the ingle plece, with the fronts particular combination forming a private code can the lock be opened. and as the figures may make an immense ‘number of combinations the “‘open sesame” is well nigh impossible of attainment except by the owner. The idea of this device is that the brace- let can be taken off and used tochaina bicycle to ihe railings while the rider is in a house or store, as a fastening to a traveling-bag and for many other pur- poses of the sort. Most people would be apt to suffer qualms of anxiety in leaving it as a lock to a bicycle but for the maker’s assurance that these bracelets, which are made in a variety of designs, are so sirong as to render the length of time required for filing them through a risk which the bicycle-thief would not venture to incur, while it is impossible to break the lock or to open it in any other way than by the mysterious code BOYS AND GIRLS A OENTURY AGO Are Those of To-Day Better or Even Happier? 1t is the commonplace of the day to congratulate our children on their singu- lar good fortune in having been born some sixty years later than their grandparents, says the Quarterly Review. If compara- tive luxury with far greater indulgences be an unmixed good there is no denying the proposition. Whether they are bet- ter, or even happier, are questions less easily answered. The old-fashioned ::is- cipline was one of Spartan severity—for obvious reasons. Children were treated neither better nor worse than their fathers and mothars before them. It may be worth while to glance at the contrasts be- tween those ascetic times and the present. Social and domestic England bad changed but little since t e Revolution. Commu- n‘cation, no doubt, had greatly improved, but it was still siow, costly apd precarious, Isoiation, even in considerable towns, was the prevailing rule, and the remoter coun- try districts were shrouded in benighted datkness. e metropolis was a city sui g the Lonorer s regnr{iefl ) by the rustics as a foreigner of strange ex- periences. There were no railways to in- stigate a craving for perpetual movement. The sbortest journey wus a matter of seri- ous thouiht.. and not to be undertaken lightly. For days on the gréat roads the intending traveler might have to wait for the chance of a seat on a siage coach, or the opportunity of a retnrn postchaise. The sovereign of those days wouid have thought it an Arabian Nights' dream had he been told that one of his proximate successors would spend a good part of the vear at a castle in the Scottish highlands. Old Farmer George lived in peaceful con- NEW TO-DAY. [mperial Hair Regenerator will make the hair beauti- tul, glossy and natural, no matter how Streaky, ZBL. ACHED or GRAY {{ fimay be. It is clean, odorless, last- ing. It does notcontain an tom of poisonous matter. Baths do not affect if, neither does curling or crimping. Incomparable for the B ARD on account of its dnrability and clesn- No. 4,Chestnut No. 5, Light Chestnut. No. 6, Gold Bload Price 1 50 and $3 00. Sole Manufacturers and Patentees: Imperial Chol?)lcll llf‘x. Co.d‘2§2 'F'id!lh.ll:»r..‘fl. lYn. or sale by Druggists al wirdres Ban Fr ;cl:eo sold and spplied by Stanislas | Strozynski and Goldstein & Cohn. G. Lederer, 111 Stockton sireei. tent between the slopes of Windsor and the beach at Weymonith, as the gayer re- gent divided his time' between Carlton House and Brighton yavilion. George 1L was an affectionate and indeed a dutiné father, but 1 Mme. d’Arblay’s memoir we hear much of the ceremonial reverent with which he was treated by his daughe ters in the quiet domestic circle, % -——— THE AIR OF BEDROOMS. They Are Exceedingly Liable to Be Overcuarged With Watery Vapor. ‘When there is 100 much water in the atmosphere the person who breathes it 1s to a certain liited extent deprived of his due supply of oxygen, and &n elementary beginning of suffocation is perceived in his chest. Most middle-aged and ail oid persons have lelt this, and all persons also who have weak hearis or impaiied jungs. Now the air of bedrooms is ex- ceedingly liable to be overcharged witn watery yapor. ‘The most obvious reasons for this are thai many bedrooms &re never warmed with fires, and that their windows are often left open all day until dusk, and sometimes even o the very bour of going to bed in very damp air. A delicate or an aged person leaves & Warm drawing-room, say, at balf past 11, a drawing-room iu which there wasa temperature of 68 de- grees; he enters a cold, Gamp bedroom, suy, ut a temperature of 38 degrees. The air 1n the drawing-room was dry, perhaps a 11ttle 100 dry. 3 The air 10 the bedroom is saturated with cold watery vapor. Lhe person we are thinking o1, so soon as he enters the bed- room. chokes and gasps and coughs for half hour at least, and somelimes brings on such an aitack of asthma, or, as ne calls 1t, “suiffness’” of the chest, that he can hardly breathe atall. He may even lose his night's sleep tnd be 1il ior some days after such an exposure. Now, com- monesense says, ““Make an effort to bring the atmosphere of the bedroom nearer in point both of dryness and warmth 1o the atmosphere of the drawing-room and then not only will a man leel as co fortabie in the bedroom as in thedrawing- room, but even mo:e comfortable. He will neither gasp, nor choke, nor cough, but will go to sieep witn ease and com- fort.” Common-sense teils some plain people all this. But to those who haye no special Tegard for common-sense science tells the same tale, and she speaks with a voice whose authority not even the most learned will quest:on.—1'1-¢ Hospital. S O L Several of the younger officers on the fazship New York have bicycies on board, which they ride between decks on a coursa about a sixteenth of a mile in circum- ference. ———ee TO-DAY. NEW |, Aregou a smaxt spelt er? We give §0 away in prizes to those able tc g\» the largest list of '{(;{?R;;he word — RIBERS. You can =7 | make at least twenty, we bellove. and if you ¢an, you will get a present anyway. and if your list is the largest youwill gl $100.00 in cash. Here are the rules to follow : Use only words i the Eng Hish langunge. Do mot | use any letters in a word | more times than it aj | pears in SUBSCRIBER! | Words spellea alike can | be nacd on1y anee Use W any dictionary, an | B to " he” count | broper nouns; pronouns | prefixes, suffixes, any legitimate word. This f¢ ey ;" Suvscribers | subscribe, is, sir, sire B |50, burr, cub, ‘ur. erl Use | erib, "ete. ‘these — - words. The publisher of THE AMERICAN WOMAN will give aw 15, the sum of $500, divided into si the largest lists of words as abo person ‘making the largest lst: $% for ond larzest; £25 each for the next three larges dsts; $20 each for the three next Iiurgest; 8 10 each of the next three; 810 to each of the next afne; and §2 to each of the next forty lists. We want you to Know our paper, tor this reason we offer these ,vren\l N ao extra charge for the privilege of en word-buflding contest, but if is esss 35 cents, siiver or stamps, for which we w Sur handsome illustrated 2%-page magazine fo months, and the very day we receive your remit we will mail you free the following ten popular ne Dy well’known authors : * Priucess Bah.’ by Frances odgson Burnett; * Hugh Bickster's Wife, y Ells Wheeler Wilcox, Lover.” by Floreuce ; “ Why The May Agnes Flem y Newton's Revenge,” by Mary Cecil Hay utual Enemy.” by Jane . oice,” by *'The Duche Helen Forrest Graves Glitter,” by James Franklin Fitt 2 Harriet Beecher Stowe. This off: e g 1ave ever had made to you. Send your list of you win one of the prizes your name wili be pub- istied in our July issue. Address THE AMERICAN Wou. HBGE(\I,W! Nassau street, 8 Few MME. A RUPPERTS WORLD- RENOWNED FACE BLEACH vy o, AIIOSEFTEE OF¥FER No. 1. To every purchas rofa 82 bottle of her world- renowned Face Bleach she will give a bar of her Almond Ot Soap ¥ orders from the countr - as well as to callers at her par ors. Goods sent In PLALN WRAP- PR on receipt of price. OF¥FER No 2. " This app'ies to To all who wish toirs her world-renowned Face Ble: cn she offers (0 sell a TRIAL BOTTLE ior 25¢. accompanied with her book “How to Be Beautitul,” con aining the most_important teatures of her famous lectures in New Y ork. Samp.e sud bo< sent in plain wrappers, churges prepaid, on receipt of 2 R1’S WORLD-R! £ CE 'BL i has been acenowle ve.rs the bestknuwn remedv for HLACKHEADS, PIMPLES, FR] CKT OILY SKIN MME. A. RUPPERT begs to inform her patrons that she has removed her parlors to Rooms 15 and 16, 131 Post street, San Francisco. Takeelevator. ., Eic. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, MOLES, WARTS AxD aLL F\CIAL BLE] M ‘jshes' permanentiy and painessly dest by eleciric-needle opers'ion. 100k Al tion free. 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