The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 11, 1897, Page 29

i THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 11, 1897. 29 Hats, toques and bo topics of absor many of them s a enough to sury initiated. The black straws, w ed, pink, green or vio- let trimmings, are 5o common that the sight of one now affects me unpleasan Why, only the other day when returning home on the cars every woman, with a single exce ad on a black chapeau gayly ado n but one variety of flower a dulged in the results are n , but when red roses nod defia you on theleft side, pink ones on and violets are bunched 1 begin to wonder what is t nthe wearer's sense of the b nd why the meek- est-looking of wor so frequently de- light in belligerent-looking headgear. Fancy a crushed, washedou 15 gold. The box- a6 and p. Pens: colored velvet s of yellowish lace, edged with a ruffling of chiffon, is tied at the throat in front, and from it fail long scarfs of violet last note in this exquisite color- 3. Bolerom ruches and deep ple of a mortal selecting a stiff-looking affair on which though they rested, but as though they had been stuck on with glue! Even the ends of ribbon and the bows have a war- like aspect. Ah, well, perhaps the crushed- looking little object thinks that such a concoction will impart to herin & measure 1ts air of determination, the truth, I have been so fortunate as to have seen abouta score of the most ex- quisitely lovely and artistic of chapeaux, {and as a result I am extremely critical and | as they afford many a Lint, and not all of | made with whitestraw linings. Around the Quakerish bitlcan woman to Now, to confess | hard to suit, but I do know that too many colors are being used; they are put to- gether crudely, and as most women donot | nake a proper study of their heads they will put on hats that were never intended for them. Why, in Paris the leaders of fashion and their imitators never think of king into a miliner’s ana inding a hat ready made. They situdy the color scnemes, note the latest modes, decide exactly what grwns they wish and then give the necessary orders. As a re Paris furnishes models the entire civilized world. While all of us canno’ afford to have the charming confections of lace, fowers or and straw that_hail frors across the pond | we can at least exercise ourindividual taste, and I have known many an Amer n for herseif at a des! DAINTY EAST! This exquisite cape has a design of great popples applique in black lace on gold tissue, accordion pleated eated ruches on the shoulders and the edge ere of black satin, edged with fri ik chiffon is fastened in front with two black roses. trifling cost the most chic of chapeaux. the flowers do not look as|You will find at our best milliner's that your ideas can be carried out with perfect success. Indeed, I am speaking from ex- verience, but I advise no experiments un- less you have taste and know what you require. if you have not be conservative and avoid being conspicuous if you can- | not afford to go to the best of milliners and pay her from $20 to $30 for each millinery triumph. A few of the latest hats I must tell you about EASTER COSTUMES FOR LITTLE MAIDS. 1 Figured mousseline de laiae or silk dress for young girl. The skirt has three tucks on the lower edge and is made up of mauve silk. Coliar and sleeve ribbons of rose color. 2. Pale-gray wool dress, with bottle-green velvet trimmings. The coilar is of green vel- | turned out New York girly are wearing ¥eta covered with white guipure, the beauties are from Paris; many come trom New York, and are declared by some to be superior in finish and desizn to many of those imporied from Paris direct. Esther Meyer has just created a produc- | tion that caused quite a little sensation on opening day. FEverything about it was in the new French blue color. Straw com posed it, and the sides were extremely high trimmings, consisting of wings of the new color, and on top wss a trimming of shirred chiffon. Much aamired, also, was a novel creation from Paul Virot, made of green straw, with hellotrope sids trim- | ming, and heliotrope coque trimming on top. There was also a touch of | green with the hellotrope. One of | Erancois’ toques I saw on its arrival | bere—price $25 il the milliner copied it, $30 if the customer did not wish to have | ER CREATIONS. The 1ining of Tose-pink sa of pink chiffon. | this done. It consists of an inexpensive | olive freen straw, which fits the head | closely, and had a rather wide effect at the side. At the leftit turns up slightly, and two medium-sized black Prince of Wales planies with four smaller feathers | | are sewn there, and in the back are two rather good jet ornaments exactly alike, and thatisail. Nota bow, nota scrav of anyihing else; about $10, but at most $12, would amply pay for the work and mate- rials, but then the style! Yes, I confess, | | cou'd I Lave sfforded it I would have paid | | the sum asked, as no reproduction of it will ever be satisfactory, for jast the inie- | | scribable curves here and there, etc., com- | munded this goodly price. | Wanamaker bas secured for his milli- | nery department quite a genius, if reports |are to be reiied on, for at the opening, | two weeks ago, the women quite raved | over a creation for evening wear of shirred white chiffon. At one side and on top are pink rose and four white ostrich tips, held in position by a large and handsome ] Thinestone ornament. At the same open- | ing wasnoted a combination hat collarette | and parasol to match in a garanium red. | This set came from Paris, and the mate- | | riai used is a spangled maline. | For a dame with quiet taste has been | made a pretty bonnet. It hasa truncated | | pyramid for a crown, and the slope down | | irom the side forms a close-fitting bonnet. Fhe whole is made of alternate rows of | | tiny, narrow cream lace and jet beads | | strung in rows. The left side was orna- | mented by puffs of cbiffon with black | | nigrettes, and the right side with black violets. The bonnet strings were of moire ribbon and quite narrow. The wrap to he worn with this has not the virtue of being | warm, but simply dressy. It is shaped | like a mantle, with threerows of five-inch- | wide ribbon over the shoulders, each edged | with six rows of narrow chiffon plaitea. These are placed on a pointed yoke of over-beaded design. The wide ribbons are merged into onme at the front waist line, and the two, with chiffon edging, | carry the mantle around to the back, end- | ing in & buge bow of striking effect. | | | The new straws this season must please even the most fastidious, for every qual- ity, color and weave may be had. Sailor | bats are to be worn as much as ever and they have changed as much in appearance during the last few years as have our tailor gowns, for they are now to be had beautifully ornamented with flowers. One | 1like has its crown surrounded with the | best of deep purple violets and their | leaves. At the le.t side rises some foliage | above .the flowers. Next to the hair are knots of green ribbon. The smartly | sailor hats in blue, brown and black, The lttle yoke of black velvet is studded with diamonds. ]culu-is concerned, for evening wear, but crown is tied a white velvet ribbon that terminates in & smart bow exactly in the middle of the front, at the left side are two quills and two long ends of the white velvet. For a schoolgirl I saw a sailor of biscuit- colored straw, around the trown of which is tied a velvet ribbon, exactly the shade of the darkest and richest wall-flowers, and at the left side thes: flowers, quite a banch of them, are piaced. Yet another for an older maiden, of black straw, has rows of violets bunchel near the top of the crown, and underneath, resting on | the hair, rosettes of violet ritbon nestle | among the flowers. Equally good is one of dark red straw, made effective hy | means of black tulle gathered and shirred | about the crown, and shaded geraniums form a wreath arcund the crown. \;\‘S,\\‘_“ \ A Z | tin, also accordion pleated, gleams through the | The collar of gold . chiffon, bordered with a flounce of lace and ruchings of chiffon, while the chord is struck by the lining of white silk, where graduated stripes in shaded mauve are arranged witn infinite art, ntle of pale green cloth, jet embroidered, and showing beneath an under bolero of black velvet, edged with a irill of silk. The cape sleeves of green moire are softened by s of green chiffon, repeated inside the high collar. Slippers and Shoes. An Easter bride, whose trousseau will | cause much comment, has very beauti- | fully shaped fest, on which No. 1 .\hoes‘ are worn with perfect comfort, so it is not to be wondered at that her siippers and | shoes have been ordered with much care, and more than one pair of dear little high-heeled slippers are worthy of admira- tion. They have a strap over the instep and are like those worn by stage dancers, our beiles having discovered that this | style of slipper is becoming to most feet. | Itis known as the “gypsy.” The pair to which L allude are of Wwhite satin, exqui- sitely embroidered with diamonds and | silver. However, such slippers are also being made very snecessfully of white kid with a black beading, the rage for biack and white affecting even our footgear. Indead, there 1s no restriction, as far as | { | | | i i the kid must be of the very softest and best quality, 0 as to properly outline the foot. The toes of slippers are more elabor- | ateiy embroidered than they have been for several years, yellow and black beads trequently being used on black satin, just as pearls, diamonds and gold and silver threads are employed on white, blue and pink satin, and not a few clever maidens nowadays embroider their own slipper toes. The cost is trifling and the results most satisfactory in the larger number of cases. T have just heard of a pair of red leather slippers made with an edsing of per- forated white kid around the top. A single rhinestone button is used instead ofja buckle. Ata fancy-dress ball last winter a dazziing effect was produced by wear- ing blue slippers ornamented with rold and strass. Garnets are quite extensively used, as well as many costly jewels, by smart New Youk girls, who think but lit- tle of losing one or more diamonds at a cotillon. To return to my little bride. Many of her shoes show a tendency to return to the styles of the Tudor and Stuart times. They look extremely uncomfortable, sev- eral having the highost heels imaginable and covered with scarlet kid in atriking contrast to the coloring of the rest of the shoes, which are mads of glove kid, A few have their toes exquisitely painted by hand, such having been the vogue at court during the time of King Edward 1II. Bucklesof genuine cut silver rarely wrought complete them. What do yon think of a pair composed of silver brocade? Tuey have gold buckles and the most lofty in heels; in style they are a la Charles IX, and besides these KEITH'S new lot Mother Goose children’s hats,® | NEW TO-DAY. THE interest you, ladies? course. and other blemishes from your face. and chiffon mantle. To a yoke of pansy velvet is added deep band of gathered silk a shade lighter, followed by mauve velvet and a frill of cntton. A vow | SO When once removed they will never return? providing you pursue the right course. with the electric needle. Beauty is cultivated—seldom the gift of nature. nishing the mould of beauty, not infrequently mars her best efforts with unsightly hairs, moles, etc. What can | do to become more beautiful? Does this question Nature, in fur- Then lend me your ears—figuratively, of Remove those unsightly and humiliating hairs, moles, warts Can this be done permanently, Certainly it can, How? Have them removed Whereshall | go? To seme reputable phy- sicians who devote their entire practice to this work, and do it with~ out causing pain or leaving scars. Where can | find such operators? At the Philadelphia Electrolysis Company, in the St. Ann’s Buiiding, junction of Market, Powell and Eddy Streets, opposite The Baldwin. Entrance 6 Eddy Street, Rooms 38-39, hours | to 4 P. M. P. S.—We respectfully court an acquaintance with all those who might have future dealings with us, to hold converse with them on the subject of beautifyi ng the face. Such acquaintance and conversation is pleasing to us, and for the time thus given by us no charge is imposed. are others in sky biue and red brocade; | but the handsomest in this unusually ex- tensive collection are of the richest white and gold' brocade, in which glisten gold buckles incrusted with glittering gems, the heels being over tnree inches high. Really absurd as such heels are, not only being positively dangerous, but also the cause of severe back and head aches, you may tell me that “‘one must suffer to be beautiful,” but question is are such ex- ageerations beautiful? 1 have been reading about a fair Duchess who has ordered a pair of white | satin slippers, which are to be ornamented vith Jacqueminot roses in velvet brocade | on the toe and heel, the roses being inter- twined with embroidered wreaths of smilax. A Marquise owns s gorgeous pair of shoes evolved from green brocade en- riched with silver embroidery. A pair of | ber slippers are of yellow brocade bor- dered with the narrowest possible ruche | of jeweled chiffon. The heels are five and o halt inches high. The bases of tbe | heels have silver and ilt tips. Many of the boitines now being made in Paris have up the center of the front just fifteen buttons on a lozenge-shaped KEITH'S new red ha *: all styles. - SISTEM, ) The only one by which | you can make a garment Without trying on. PATTERNS. 1231 MARKET ST. snd 126 O'Farrell St. | rom e Jetrers tn KELIABLLITL s make (went; or_more words, wé feel sure, and If | LAWRENCE = | and 1ot later than May 16. | sune issue, putlished in Mav. opening worked with tiniest jewels. Oth- ers are enhancei with jet. M ARCELLA. KEITH'S new lot saiior and walking hats.* ————— The first Engiish Duke was created in 7 SR ITH'S hew hats (o sult head and pockey TO-DAY. Notice this to-day. 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