The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 2, 1896, Page 28

28 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, 2 -y AUGUST 1896. WHAT THE SUMMER QUEENS ARE WEARING HORSEHAIR PETTICOATS AND BIG SLEEVES ADIED NOVEL THINGS AND PRETTY THINGS TO PLEASE THE FEMININE TASTE AXD FANCY HAND KEEP IN FASHION'S GIDDY WHIRL FOR, THE SEASON Gold, Silver and Pearl Brocade The Duchess of York wore this exquisite gown at a great state concert lately. _ WY A Very Pretty Trouville Bodice * This delightful model is, as its name indicates, of Parisian origin, and adds to the charnis of a fair New Yorker now at Newport. In the first place it has a lining of white taffeta glace, and over that the poil de chevre is drawn without a seam in “the back. It is a semi-low bodice cut square in the back, graduated front pieces forming the front. These are all bound with lime-green velvet exactly matching the stripes, which are on a white ground. There is an oval buckle of burnished gold in _the center of the belt-bow, which starts from either side from the under-arm seam, and is, as you observe, carried over the short square basque. The sleeves are very moderate in size and are bound with velvet around the point, which extends about half an inch over the band. Under the soft lace and mousseline de soie, forming the vest, is seen the white silk. The soft crush collar is of the velvet and has a soft edging next the throat of the mousseline de soie, and it terminates in pretty outstand- ing ends in the back. The artistic hat of white straw has an edging of mousseline de S S RS LR 2 XX K b Ganvés and a Flannel Gown The figure to the left wears a very fetching sailor gown of heavy linen canvas. Very beautifully does the young matron dress who ordered from her tailor this cre- ation, in which she has been greatly admired at one of our most fashionable seaside resorts. She has never informed even her most intimate friends where that heavy linen canvas, which is so extremely swell, came from. The skirt measures less than five yards, the seams are strapped, and throughout this delicious dress is lined with white taffeta. The stylish collar and revers are of the same and the mousseline vest has a foundation of this silk. The saft waistband is of black satin. White silk encircles the throat and little lace ends hang over the sides. This lace is an ex- tremely welcome addition to the vest. The coat is well cut and jaunty. The sleeves | have two rows of silk stitching around the wrist and two exceptionally good mother- of-pearl buttons. Note how the linen is stitched over the silk collar and revers. The hat was made to order out of horsehair, white and cream being combined most hap- pily. The black quills are dotted with white. The parasol is of white silk, through which run creamy white lines. No fair Parisian could have conceived, even with Worth’s assistance, a more satisfactory costume for the seashore. White kids, stitched with narrow lines of black silk, are worn by this dainty American, who could make a fortune designing frocks. The figure to the right is draped in a dress of pale blue flannel, striped with a darker shade of the same material. How simple this sounds, and naturally the effect depends on the perfection of each and every detail. As you see,the skirt is beyond criticism. The fair wearer dislikes as much as many Parisian grand dames to have her frocks rustle, so this toilette is lined throughout with a light-colored, heavy rich tan-colored surah, which exactly matches the large collar, shirt and cuffs of tan drill. The belt is of a fine soft leather one shade darker than the drill. The small buttons are of pearl a shade lighter than the drill and are ornamental, such a relief from the overcrowded way some women employ them. The studs exactly match them. The cravat matches the dark stripe, and the hat of Panama straw is bound with a ribbon matching the stripe and two quills of the same shade having tan-colored dots. The striking belle who wears this costume is so critical on the sub- ject of wearing apparel that it is sufficient guarantee of its excellence to say it is liked by her. It is said to have suited the Duchess wonderfully well and was made for her by a Dublin dressmaker. 1 canriot do this creation full justice, I fear, but imagine, if you can, the heaviest of white satin covered with an artistic design of roses and true lovers’ knots carried out in gold, silver and pearls. It was cut en princesse, the front having the effect of a separate skirt. The train is well worthy of our attention, as it is of exactly the right length and hangs admirably. The low-cut bodice was finished round the neck with some exquisite chiffon, embroidered in silver and pearls. Of this the sleeves, of most moderate size, were made. A beautiful and costly pearl ornament adorned the front of the corsage and at the waist line, in front, was a softly wrinkled piece of plain white satin introduced, while costly jeweled buttons finished it at either end. Such a dress should' be treasured as a work of art, however, but only a faint idea of its magnificence can be conveyed by this description. For a long voyage always select a comfortable hat, and there is no reason why it shonid not be pretty and becoming as well. The Tam o’ Shanter and the English walking-hat, made of dark cloth, are the most stylish shapes. Women with round or broad faces look the best'in Tam o Shanters, and they may select one having a crown composed of a series of gores, which are apparently held in place in the center by means of a button. The brim is short and rolls back. The only ornamentation is a ribbon bow at the left side, through which a quill is stuck, or they may prefer one having the crown all in one piece. The English walking-hat has a narrow, stiff brim. Round the crown is a loosely twisted band of net, through which a quil/ feather is passed. A Central Park Cycling Costume. soie that exactly matches the shade of primroses arise a cluster of white sweet peas with their leaves. the velvet. From two bunches of green The white gloves worn have very narrow lines of lime-green silk stitching. How good a thing it is to be young and most divinely fair and wear such a delightful garment. ‘Silk Petticoats Are Fashionable Months ago I announced that horsehair 'was going out of fashion. Still some who should know better are now even having their skirts lined with it. As aresultit will cut through the fabrics probably, and at all events make the skirts unnecessarily heavy. Iam assured thatin three months large sleeves will be a thing of the past; | ** our skirts will not measure, at the most, over four yards and a half around, and | interlinings will be regarded with marked disapprobation. Well, we have been carry- ing around about three extra and unneces- sary pounds for quite long enough and should hail with delight the adventofa | * new skirt, even if some are found to sigh over the departed glories of their dearly beloved balloon sleeves, although most | of us are glad enough to bid them adieu. Our silk petticoats are (so says one noted Parisian authority) to measure threeand a bait yards around the bottom and are to have two or three medium ruffies, in the hems of which must be run a very nar- | row, flexible steel tape. This will do away with horsehair, grass cloth, canvas and fiber chamois interlinings in our skirts, but only tne very best silk can be utilized, otherwise the steel will quickly cut out the ruffles. Worth is having. in both taffeta and surah, a specially heavy silk manu- factured for this express purpose. Such petticoats will be verr reasonable at $10. One of our best dressmakers here tells me that she could make them to sell at that figure and would carry out the same idea 0 alpaca for less, but it you are going to indulge in only one such model be ad- vised and have the silk. Make a mental note of these facts: Florally patterned cameleon faille is much liked; shot surah 40 inches wide is being used; many of the wash goods, especially those in plain colors, now being sold so reasonlb{’ , will pay to purchase and lay aside for next summer; organdies are also desirable at their present fignre. Silk skirts will be worn next winter, but, as they are not to be over four yards in width, many remnants of silk now marked below cost may be profitably secared. Princess Gowns HAre Worn in Paris In a few weeks autumn hats, gowns and fabries only will be under discussion, for fickle Dame Fashion has done with em- broidereda lawns, muslins, organdies, piques and all such materials and is now giving her undivided attention to chev- iots and woolens of ail descriptions, and in Paris it is known that the favorite shape for indoor wear will be the princess and the bolero or Figaro for the street. Felix, Doucet and Laferriere are fash- ioning princess frocks out of ecliennes and bengalines, soft shades of gray being in great vogue, although slate color is also popular. For early autumn have been designed some tailor costumes in a shot. mo- hair serge in two shades—of dead-leaf green and also in a warm brown. They have been cut with the narrow-gored skirt, and bave either the short bolero or the jaunty little jacket. The pockets are square, and I can tell you now that the swellest traveling taiicr suits will be made of plaid, not the small check, remember, but a beautifully biended large blue and green plaid, with, 1 here and there a yellow, a white or a red line, wikh which can be worn the sitkbodice or silk ‘shirt:waist which will supplant the cotton and linen still' es we have all become so fond of. For the street the bolero will be very short, however, I must now chronicle what is being worn by the smart set at the present moment. The short white pique jacket, cut at the seam and falling a trifle below the waist, may be worn with a gray, blue or ecru skirt, opening over a white chemisette at- tached with'a band of white leather. For a long voyage always select a com- fortable hat, and there is no reason why it should not be pretty and becoming as well. The tam o’ shanter and the English walking hat, made of dark clotk, are the most styiish shapes. Women with round or broad faces look the best in tam o’ shanters, and they may select one having a crown composed of a series of gores, which are apparently held in place in the center by means of a button. The brim isshort and rolls back. The only orna- mentation is a ribbon bow at the left side, through which a quill is stuck, or they may prefer one having the crownall in one piece, The English walking hat hasa narrow, stiff brim. Round the crown is a oosely twisted band of net, through which a quill feather is passe: The Queen of the Belgians plays tl;e harp exquisitely. The cuffs of the shirt waist of the up-to- date New York girl are fastened with links, buttons having been banished com- pletely. Bhe is now wearing ‘‘long side combs of shell and shell studded with brilliants and pearls for full-dress occa- sions. They are worn on each side of the back hair, facing the ears, in order that the front hair may bé pushed forward to give the loose although tidy effect so necessary to-day for one who is bien mise. When an additional high-standing comb is added it is lJarger than were the fancy hairpins which have disappeared. Ribbon bows are not now used in the hair, unless it be a very small one used to support an aigrette or some ornament when in full ress.’” I presume that most of us are quite will- ng toabide by the New York criticism. Of late I have spoken but seldom concern- ing bicycle costumes and at the present moment I myself have no strikingly orig- inal ideas to offer, so instead give you the description of a costume written by a bright correspondent of Vogue: ‘In the park the other morning, when it was cool and delightful, I saw & becoming cycling habit worn by 8 very pretty woman, ac- companied by her two young sons. It was built of navy-blue corduroy cloth. In point of color and texture it was perfect. A tight-fitting coat bodice belted with black satin, with narrow basque lying flat to the figure, which was slight anda grace- ful. The bodice was worn with a divided skirt, than which no other hangs haif so well. A dark blue straw English turban, with full ruching of pinked-out blue taffetas a bunch of blue quills at the side, empha- sized the note of neatness and trimness so desirable. Then came the well-put-on veil, the delicate bands of throat and cuff linen, the immaculate cravat with lace in- crusted on the mull, a pleasing feminine touch to soften the severe cloth outlines. Black silk-ribbed hose above the neatest of black ties buttoned at the sides. The freshest of white chamois gloves. Park rides and country rides, each have a fit style, and what will answer for one will not for the other.” Much interest is always manifested by women concerning their stockings, so it will not be amiss to quote an extract from an English correspondent appertaining to the hand-loom weaving of stockings in Edinburgh. Among other things she re- marks: “It takes several years to become a proficient workman, but the pay to these is high, and some of the finest mun-\u‘lk j stockings are paid tor at the rate of two guineas a pair, or even a little more. Or. ders come from all over the civilized world for hose, large and small, and a pair of heather mixture or tartan-wool stockings to match a costume can be supplied in a few hours. The best work is done by men, but about half a hundred women are employed in the modern knitting-machine department, where all the cheap hose is done. This is beginning to supersede the good old work, and itis feared that in time the beautiful art (which probably came over with the French artisans in Queen Mary Stuart’s time and has thriven ever since) will die out. At the present time there are, however, 2 good many custom- ers who will only have the real thing at the recognized old price. The knitted fancy squares for shooting waistcoats is another branch of industry which employs a great many women and has a good sale. The women sit knitting, or ‘weaving,’ as they still call it, with the different balls of wool in a basin beside them.” The leading jewelers are busily exercis- ing their ingenuity in devising new silver toys as the fad for collecting them con- tinues. One of the latest designs is a mi- nute and perfect reproduction of a colonial chair, which will be duly appreciated, I doubt not, by “ye high colonial dames.” Lovers of beautiful china will enjoya visit to one of our leading stores, for some really lovely Austrian (or Carlsbad) china has just arrived. Youcan purchase plates of all sizes, cups for coffee, chocolate, tea or cafe noir, coffee-pots, cream pitchers, chocolate jugs, plaques, bonbon- nieres and pintrays at most reason- able figures. We have all seen and admired Carlsbad china, but never before have we seen any so exquisite. The borders of the plates are all of a rare shade of blue with touches of gold. In the center of each is a wonderfully executed miniature head of either Napoleon, Josephine, the little king of Rome, . or of distinguished men or women of that era, excellent reproductions of well-known por- traits and miniatures. Such china is quite sufficient to revive an interest in those days. On every piece may also be seen the imperial monogram. For a wedding present what could be more welcome than a dozen of such plates or what prettier for a little birthday remembrance than a bonbonniere? MARCELLA. In Lapland dress fashions changed for 1000 years. “have not | s THE PRINCE GROOMED A CORRESPONDENT SAW THE HEIR ATTIRED - INCORRECTLY In London “Him” finds that the booi- accuses them of copying cheap American styles, and says that ac present they are | trying obstinately to force the russet shoe on ' the public. 'This eritic declares that. skill. They do not fit as they used to.” In Paris are undoubtedly to be had the- best patent-leathers. 5 2 Alpine hats are no longer countenanced, and only very young lads wear tri-colored bands. The frock coat this season isa desirable garment, all exaggerations having been banished, and for afternoon wear waist- coats of brown or white pique are much affected by the smartest men. ) The Prince of Wales was lately seen by a New York correspondent one after at the “Ladies’ Kennel Association,” who declares that his Highness is beginning to' grow careless in his dress, as many lishmen who were present had th pearance of being better groomed. There- is no excuse for such a thing. This au- thority says concerning him: ¢ He is always correctly attired, but he wea his frock coat tightly buttoned, and for a stc man this is fatal. Then, again, he insists upon the white waist. coat edging, which is so wide that it is visible an inch beyond the V of his coat. Histie was a four-in-hand witk a big flat bow and an awk- ward tie pin. | and the color a dull grayish blue. His gray trousers were aggressive and baggy and his coat too short and too snug. His gloves were good. THey were tan suede, which, to :y mind, are much smarter than _ ut good humor, although he has recently won. the Derby,and the Princess, sad and sweet 1aced as ever, is beginning to show her age. { obtained from the London tailors and The very smartest cloths for business loungs suits are of the lightest tans and fawns, and here and there grays with a suspicion of arsb. Double-breasted white waistcoats are being worn & great deal with lounge suits this sum- mer, and I must say on thin men they are v effective. And yet one comes 8CrOss qu. combinations of color. I lunched with d man who wore a blue flunnel suit, a greenish blue shirt, a green and yellow tie, a buff waistcoat and a bright yellow silk hand-* kerchief, with the end stuck out of the inside pocket of his coat. St lid and coat of arms should wear it on the Iit- tle finger of the right hand. @80, - Monday. Tuesday and Wedhnesday go at 80 cents per dozen. Beautifully engraved with the popular ‘lace pat tern. . A very pretty line of Imitation @ut Glass Flower Vases also go at the _fol- 15¢; 10-inch, 25¢; 12-inch, 85¢. ° Big reductions throughout the store, but especially on fine decorated china. Our $45 Haviland China Dinner .Sets are now $35. 3 THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Blook Below Shriva's. 528 and 530 Market St., . 27 and 29 Sutter St., - ° $BoSoSSSSSese! R ARk 22 Geary St., Near Kearny. THE TENDENCY. - Toward Black Dress Fahrics Enables us to place the following unusual values on our counters to- morrow: English Mohair Brocade, $84.50 sqxr Wool and Mohair Novelties, $3.50 SULT Soleil and Mohair Fancies, - $7.00 SUIT KID GLOVES st offer our superior makes of Gloves below regular prices- ‘Depot for Priestley’s Black Goods R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. Telephone Grant 518, 2 ThePH ELELTROLYAIS @ mmgmhfin a1, CORNERTAYI 90 uerrie Maze) flaom 28 : EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- tricityat §1 a sitting; first sitting free: no scars left; moles, warts, etc., also removed, IS-CARELESS WALES NOTASWELL - makers are not what they used to be. and- “the bootmakers seem to have lost their . The material was shiny silk, kid. He did not seem 1n a very gracious or™ He also gives this valuable information, - from observations of the best-dressed men: A man having aring engraved with drest.. only, our fine thin $1.25 Water Glasses" . lowing special prices: 8 inches high, s WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO," BELOW MONTGOMERY,