The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 24, 1896, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, S UNDAY, MAY 24, 1896. N e e s e e e e Tk L s TS [ | { | | EVERAL bright little dinners were given on Monday last, and the guests immediately afterward were driven to the Baldwin to see the “‘Countess Gucki,” which was presented in really delightful manner. The house was the best seen for months, and most of ‘the gowns were refreshingly bright and handsome. The fair Countess was a great success and every one Te- marked on how perfectly her Empire gowns and her wonderful headgear suited her. I oniy trust we will not, as a result of the Countess’ advent and these pleas- ant theater parties, have an epidemic of Empire frocks, for they suit just about cne woman in twenty. There is to be a large wedding on the second of June, and on this occasion are to be, worn some gowns which, I hear, will call for more than a passing remark. 1 am so glad to tell you that the success of the concert to be given on the 28th of this month by the *Young Ladies’ Orchestra’ is an assured fact, as several of our best known social leaders have manifested the greatest interest in this wortby charity so we will all of us who are leftin town don | our prettiest frocks and be present. Quite a number of invitations from Berkeley reached here last week for a | reception. As a result, many spent Wednesday pleasantly at one of the hos- pitable homes there. About 200 guests were present. I hear of numerous house parties, and | hope that this summer many garden | fetes will be given, as certainly many of the hostesses across the bay would find i ful way of entertaining their ncy a gypsy tent under the h prizes for the best nis court, and numerous tables ne could have appropriate refresh- W hat could be more charming? ments, Yachting Parties and Fetching Things to Wear on the Water. Yachting parties are already being | planned and positively nothing is more enjoyable than a sail and a dainty repast under a canvas awning. Most of our pretty girls are good sailors and are always ready for a cruise, and jauntily attired in | immaculate white du or in fetching | dark blue serge. What a pity it is that some maidens who are perfectly aware that the slightest swell makes them seasick will insist on going for a sail, as they in- | variably suffer themselves and not infre- quently spoil the pleasure of most of the party? Takemy advice, girls, and decline such invitations, unless you have the requisite qualifications. Eastern girls all last summer at Newport wore a regulation veil, the color of the sailor, and tied it neatly in the back to keep stray hairs in place and give it a gen- eral finish and touch of the becoming. A second veil of brown chiffon was worn loosely over this, like a valence, to protect the skin, and was pinned in the back, so that the ends could fall over the hair al- most to the nape of the neck. This will undoubtedly be the fashion again, as there is a cause forit; but, of course, it is too early in the season to assert it positively, as sailors have scarcely made their appear- ance except in the shops. Inorderto have a pinkish complexion, some women wear a veil of pink tulle nnder the regular veil, which certainly gives the desired result, \\il]hout being visible through the outer veil. Our artist has producea two of Red- fern’s latest triumphs in yachting cos- tumes, of which I quote the deseriptions: No. I shows & mew arrangement in navy cloth serge adapted to resist the action of sait water and sea air. Toe bodice, with plain- fitling back, is iashioned uniquely in front as a small figaro, to which is buttoned once on either side & tabbed shield showing under ita jersey-like srrangement formed of gobelin and white striped serge, fitting well up o the neck, where it is finished by a pointed collar of the navy serge and with loops of, & bright French plaid ritbon tled on either side. This plaid ribbon in wider form appears also as a finish at the waist, where it is threaded thrcugh the overhanging box pleat of the bodice, and it is tied in large bows at the buck. Slecvesof the new shape, with close-fitting armlets fitting up 10 the shoulder puffs and attached to them by buttoned tabs, are finished at the wrist in points edged with & fine pattern of cream and gold braid; this is also used to embroider the edge of the figaro. The skirt of new, moderately full shape, has insertions of the striped serge on each front seam, these be- ing finished at the foot by tabbed ‘shields of navy serge buttoned to the skirton either side and recalling thus the novel arrangement of the bodice front. The sailor hat of cream manilla straw is furnished with bows and loops of the plaid ribbon used for meck and waist, thus rendering it en suite with the gown. No. 2 is a unique arrangement in white cloth serge properly shrunk to permit of its be- ing_cleaned without dameage to the fit. The moderately full plain skirt is made entirely of tnis serge and ‘the bodice is cut as a corselet with fuil short basque drawn down through a wide belt of the serge handsomely and closely embroidered in & fine navy silk cord; a scarf front of black and white striped silk is inserted immediately in the center of waist and fastened thereto with four antiquely engraved gilt buttons. A spiral of navy embroidery is worked from the waist upward, finishing just under the bust, giving an efiect of slimnéss to the figure. The sleeves of the new smaller shape are finished at the wrist by an insertion of ths cord em- broidery, and a filigree of the same work 15 introduced at the front of collar. The smart litile figaro is of bright navy blue faced cloth, with tabbed epaulettes arranged in sets of three on either shoulder; the loops of gold cord are finished by small gilt anchor buttons, and, 0 give & soft finish 1o the front of the corselet, a jabot of navy and white figured chiffon ‘appears from either side of the blue figaro. The hat of small sailor shape, with curled brim, is of rush plait, and is trimmed with bows of white ribbon_{astening the pin- ions of navy and white at the right side. The jacket illustrated, for either boatlng or yacnting, is of nayy blue serge, wit! gilt buttons enameled in blue. It is dou- ble-breasted and has a square collar braid- ed with white braid and a small inner one of white serge. This jacket is unusually well supplied with pockets. Fawn Color for Cycling— How the Fashionab'e Bride Must Dress. For eycling dresses fawn-colored cloth is | frequently chosen, and looks well when | made up into a good little coatand a sensi- | ble skirt. White cloth is used in combi- | nation with this also. For a schoolgir! a costume of checked cheviot, tan Barred, belted with white kid belt, gigot sleeves, white mull chemisette and stock is in very good taste. : Very lovely is a toilette in heliotrope crepe de chine. The skirt fits closely at the hips. The front of the skirt is com- posed of insertions of creamy Valenci- ennes upon a deeper hue of heliotrove silk, and at each seam is a narrow border of chenille embroidery and applications of Valenciennes. The chenille is brouzht in as the stems and leaves of the lace flow- ers. Mousseline de soie, in two shades of heliotrope, forms a double ruching round the bottom of the skirt. The bodice is com- posed of loops of crepe de chine over silk, and the sleeves of finely drawn crepe are almost tight, without a sign of any puff- ing at the shoulder. Some beautiful Va- lenciennes extends in a double cascade from throat to waist. How pretty a cer- tain belle will look when clad in just such a gown at Del Monte. Tulle and muslin gowns are being made in many cases over striped silk and good results are reported, for the stripes as seen through the muslin'and insertions are said to be very pretty, and many of the latest muslins have infinitesimal stripes, tiny hand-embroidered dots or wee cross bars of colored lines, but fashion smiles her brightest on gowns of the sheerest organ- dies and muslins, when snowy white and made with the smallest of tucks and frills, with entredeux and edgings of black or white lace. Such frocks are usuzally made over glace silk. The fashionable bride of to-day must wear ivory white duchesse satin, and this season at all the smartest weddings the bridesmaids have worn white and green. Such a delightfully cool looking combina- tion. As there are to be several country weddings this summer as well as two or more large ones in town some suggestions may prove valuable. At an out-of-town wedding a short time ago the four bridesmaids wore lovely cowns of white mousseline de soie, em- broidered in white silk dots. The bodices were round and draped with short fichus crossed at the bust and caught on the left by a large green rose and foliage. They wore coquettish Lamballe hats of green tulle shirred with quillings and long scarf draperies, and on one side smart taffeta upstanding. Broad sasi:es of three esses of green tulle floated over the gowns in the back, giving an ideal light- ness and grace. Maidenhair bouguets were carried tied with long white satin ribbons. The effect was unique and charming, and g0 harmonious with the vouth and fresh- ness of their years. At another wedding the maids wore gowns of green mousseline de soie trimmed on the bottom with green ruchings and warn over white silk slips. The full green bodices were held in by broad empire belts of white satin ribbon, fastening at the back with silver buttons. Quaint shoulder capes of white tulle, ruched all over with narrow green and white plait- ings and high ruff to match, was an ex- quisite arrangement of color and form and immensely becoming. Their hats were built on the latest Paris model the brims turning down over the hair, of white tulle, | enwreathed with the finest green crepe foil- age, which is the latest fad for summer floral garniture. At all events the maids’ frocks must convey an impression of be- ing light and absolutely fresh. Of course becomingness and suitabili are to be carefully considered. However it is not at all requisite that the fabrics emploved should be of the finest and most expen- sive character, effectiveness being the great aim and desideratum. Many Confections in Mantles and Capes. No More Somber Colors. Very numerous are the new mantlesand capes, and one with a decided air of shot silk has a sacque back and bandsome guipure applique down the front, which opens to show an inner front of black silk accordion pleating. The full-neck ruffle is of the pleating also, completed by a bow of black satin. The sleeves are ex- tremely graceful and of goodly propor- tions. Shot silk is quite a favorite for these garments, as another worthy of re- mark is in shot greenand petunia, with jetted design, and cape and collar of ac- cordion pleated net, which is striped with tiny roses, thus also forms a ruche down the front. Numerous charming little capes made and’ desigaed at home have been worn by several of our best-dressed matrons here. They are usually composed of jetted or of sequin_embroidered lace over changeable silk. Black and white mousseline de sole has been used with equally good results. Dowagers are charmed with the broche grenadines wita bright satin flowers, en- framed in scrolls of velours. They are cor- rectly spoken of as extremely elegant and are always made up over changeable tai- fetas. Young women are using large quan- tities of colored Brussels net in combina- tion with the white instead of tulle. The results are all that can be desired, as only a fine quality of the silk net is patronized. lam quite delighted to note that our gmndmothcrs are urged to no_longer con- ne themselves to similar stuffy colors, and for the nouse, excent when in mourn- ing, black should never be worn. Delicate dainty colors shoula be selected by them or bright figures in a light ground. They should no longer wear their laces on special occasions only, for grandmothers have discovered how becoming they are for daily wear and nowadays every old lady should Eossess & number of pretty and comfortable negliges. As one writer says, and unfortunately with truth, that ‘“the grandmothers of this generation are generally one of two things—absurdly youthful exhibits be- flounced, beribboned and betrimmed to excess, or careless and frumpy and shock- ingly dowdy at all times. In old age the cultivation of coquetry in both sexes should be assiduously fostered by every member of the family.” A sweet, dainty and fresh-looking old lady isa real pleasure merely to contemplate.” May we all be vermitted to grow old gracefully. Silk mohairs in everv fashionable shade are on the market. Such mixtures as mauve and green, green and biack, are much liked, and the chine alpacas with cashmenan figure and satin stripes are in great demand, as are also cheviots, tweeds and homespuns. Checked velveteens of superior qualities are used for the most stylish of waistcoats and blouses. Hop sacking has been so much liked by many that they will be glad to hear that the French have greatly improved on it, and as a result offer us “sac a raisin.” 1t can be had in such dark shades as brown and petunia. Simple tweed gowns are be- ing seen with handkerchief bodices, the revers being made of the checked linen handkerchiefs such as are used by French peasants. They are laid in lignt yellow cloth and bordered with extremely nar- row black velvet. One such bodice had a front of white cloth and over this the revers were united by a large bow of black satin ribbon. An odd crinkled grenadine which looks something like crepon has the ground of transparent black with stripes of diminutive Dresden roses. This fabric is used in the composition of some exceptionally handsome reception dresses. Frocks of somber hue are not consid- ered stylish unless lined with a gayly col- with white and black, white pigue colldr ored silk, as we must now have bright hues if we desire to be in touch with the fashionable world. Canvas has ina great measure displaced the beautiful etamines now to be had in an endless variety. Ladies Will Darn cn Net—Hints About Lace Making and Cleaning. Darning on net is to be revived. This old-fashioned work has been popular in Paris for several months and tine lace braids are introduced with the result that the embroidery has a rich effect, and it is said that a far better effect is obtained by the employment of both large-meshed net and the coarse net darning cotton espe- cailly prepared for this work than by the use of the finekind of material. Speaking of lace reminds me that one of the best ways of cleaning it is to cover it with fine ¥rench chalk, which will remove grease. Another method highly satisfac- tory is to wash it 1n alcohol. It should be wound in thin cards and wrapped in blue paper. 1f you have a goodly quantity it should be kept in alittle cabinet which has many drawers. No one not skillful in lace- making should attempt to mend lace, as it will not stand being xip‘red ard pulled about. Find an expert and trust such deli- cate work to her and she will tell you that it is frequently necessary tosacrifice a piece of the good lace to insert here and there. Pillow laces are darned, and the thread used must match that employed for the making. No easy task I assureyou. A piece of parchment is laid underneath when repairing to hold the delicate fabric in the proper position to avoid pulling the threads too closely. Every refined woman has a natural long- ing for exquisite underwear, and many times must ste be tempted (if ber means are limited) by the truly exquisite gar- ments now offered for "her inspection. The tuckings and plaiting are combined | with the finest of French insertions and | edgings. Our corsets and petticoats must match, and for summer wear corsets and skirt of white, rose, mauve or blue batiste can be had, and are desirable, as when washed pro}perly they retain their color perfectly. or fine lingerie I recommend real Valenciennes lace, linen batiste and the finest of embroidery. A combination of nainsook, chiffons and Valenciennes lace is easily imagined, but is too expen- sive for most of us to seriously contem- plate. I have just seen a nightrobe which is simply beautiful, a mass of ruffles, lace and insertions, in all respects as elaborate | and besumull{ made as a Parisian tea- n gown. I would not like to pay that pretty wearer’s laundry bill. Handwork is 1 such vogue that many ot our girls take great pride in making themselves, entirely by hand, many dainty articles of underwear. However, I have not yet heard of one un- dertaking a petticoat, as the hundreds of tucks and great width are sufficient to make even the most energetic hesitate. Black silk corsets powdered with pale pink rosebuds are to be had, with skirts to match. These are exceedingly pretty and tasteful, and not near so expensive as most fashionable styles. A new fabric for un- derwear called “merinolan’’ is meeting with much success across the pond. It will not irritate the most sensitive skin, and is declared to bogrnczicully unshrink- able. Socks are made, as well as night- gowns, of it, with much success. 'or summer wear it is much liked, and must be washed in the same way as any flannel. White calf gloves with large patent button fasteners are novelties, as are also those of white chevrette. These are much used when bicycling, as the tan perforated palms and large button make them com- fortable and convenient. Lemon-colored kids with convex buttons and tambour stitching have entirely taken the plaze of white kids. Fans are now being very extensivel. made to match the evening gowns witi which they are used. Individual taste can exercised in their trimming and orna- mentation with happy results. Such an exquisite and simple hat in mauve straw has two erect bunches of del- icate orchids, which are softened by a full ruche of tulle of the e shade. Another of white crinoline has a turned-up brim of jet. A double ruche of white and black tulle encircle the brim and transparent jet wings take the place of an aigrette. The Wise Woman Visits the Hair Dresser Every Six Months. The becoming arrangement of the hair is 8 most serious consideration, and yet many will blindly follow an extremely unbecoming fashion. A wise woman will g0 at least once in six months to the best hairdresser in the city and have him ar- range her hair according to the latest mode if it suits her style of face and the shape of her head, otherwise she will have him modify the style until it pleases her. The pompadour puff is most satisfactory When the wavea hair is drawn overalight, hollow, spring frame, which is composed of real hair. A new and ingenious device for the arrangement of the coiffure is the ‘“‘fashionable twisted coils.” It consists of -a double comb, ?uning with a hin, t the back of QE: and curved to head. The sides are molded into four arms, around which the hair is coiled. I shall certainly purchase one as soon as they reach of these in real shell here. Abroad they cost almost §4-50, which is not dear for so ornamental a pin effect. It is quite impossible for the back hair when 50 arranged to become loose. False fronts of all kinds are to be avoided, as they cause the natural hair to become in, and there is really now no reason to become bald or to be embarrassed over l.hinuhair, as hair will soon become luxuri- ous roperly treated. Forpcbli)ldrzn whose stomachs are too delicate to stand cod-liver oil I hear many physicians are warmly recommending clotted cream. 1 do not wonder that the results from -taking it regularly are ex- cellent. When freckled or sunburnt I have found elder-flower tea not only soothing and re- freshing, but it seems to exercise alsoa most beneficial effect on the skin. A good preparation of glycerine and cucumber will be found a real comfort. - Women with thin eyebrows cowd, in many cases, make them thicker and darker by gently rubbing vaseline into them every night. This must be done for atleasta month before any good results can be expected. The aplication of dye to the lashes is attended with much danger to the eyesicht, besidesitis usually easily detected or gives the experimenter a very undesirable air. Most of our girls have naturally good coloring and excel- lent complexions and quite scorn the use of any cosmetic, a little rice powder even being seldom used by them, so imagine my surprise a few days ago at seeinga girl, not yet 18, tremendously made up, and still more remarkable is the fact that she has naturally a good skin. However, the mystery was explained when I heard that her mother darkened her eyes, rouged, and bleached her hair. Poor girl, I am sorry for you. MARCELLA. MAN AND HIS TUXEDO. It Is Correct to Wear a Summer Coat on Summer Evenings Minus a Top Coat. Cutaways Impossible on Formal Occa- sions—Double-Brensted Waist- coats—Wider Stripes for Trousers. So numerous have been the queries as to “When can I appropriately wear my Tuxedo?” that desperation on authority replies: “A man may wear his Tuxedo in the bosom of his family or at the play.” 1 cannot say that I approve of appearing in it atthe play, and it would be well if Very Latest Things in Yachting Costumes, from Redferns. The men would remember that they cannot so attire themselves when iutending to call on mere acquaintances. In the East it is considered perfectly cor- rect for & man to appear on the street in a summer coat without a top coat during summer evenings. In large cities men seldom call in the evening, as they find their evenings fully taken up with dinners, dances, etc. As a result their calling is done after 4 o’clock and on sunday afternoons. No man can consider himself strictly good form who does not dine in evening dress. The Tuxedo and a black silk tie is usually worn at home. i No one should ever be seen in a cutaway coat on any formal occasion. The latest sack coats are moderately short and much like those worn last year in dimensions. Frock coats are worn at all affairs of a formal nature during the daytime. The skirts of the frock reach the knee; the waist must be very pronounced; as a re- sult it has now a long-skirted appearance. Double-breasted fancy waistcoats are worn with frock coats, and are made of brown Holland linen, of mohair and of checked materials. Black ones covered with embroidered dots are no longer fash- ionable. With business suits single- breasted waistcoats are preferred. Club ties and Ascots are much seen. Green, red or dark blue, with white fig- ures, are the designs of the latest club ties, and these must be tied by the wearer. Ascots are considered smart made of pique or white China silk. £ Vogue, in a condensed form, gives sev- eral points concerning men’s ciolhmg for the afternoon that some would do well to remember. “In the arternoon during the summer two styles of dress are permissible. The first is simply a survival from the morn- ing. A man can wear a_ditto suit with the new cutaway coat during the day, pro- vided he does not visit. He may even pay informal calls in such a rig. It will be re- membered that the cutaway in years gone by was considered almost as much full afternoon dress as the frock coat, and men in top bats and black cutaways could be seen at all the clubs. Thisis no longer fashionable and is in fact bad form. Morn- ing or afternoon swuits in gray worsteds, unfinished cheviots and vicunas in dark brown or gray are permissible. Black cut- away coats in vicunas, but not in diago- nals, are also smart and, should be worn with shepherds’ plaid or_ striped fancy trousers. ~ Garden parties, driving and in- formal receptions, however, require the frock coat. A top hat is de rigueur with a frock coat. The custom of wearing straws with them is affected at Newport, but is nevertheless not good form. The coat has a creased collar notched. Coat is worn long to just cover the kneecap. Single-breasted waistcoats, with notched collars and fifteen-inch open- ing, are worn with this. The trousers ‘tend toward the pegtop shape, falling closely around the boot, bulging like a pyramid as toey ascend the hip.’ The material, stripes in grays and browns, with a wider stripe than last year.” At the Manhattan Club in New York club sandwiches a la Straine, which is pronounced to be excellent, and accord- ing to Vanity this delicacy is the usual club sandwich, but in addition to the sliced chicken ‘and lettuce leaf it has a laver of thin broiled bacon and sweet Virginia pickles, likewise a taste of sar- dines, the delicate piscatorial morceauz be- ing dipped in powdered cracker and fried in its own gravy. C. THE APACKE 1S ~ A GOOD INDIAW, Captain R. H. Pratt of the Famous Carlisle School Says So. WHAT HIS SCHOOL DOES. Teaches the Indians to Work and They Earn $22,000 a Year. Spends Millions Per Annum Reck- lessly—Going to Alaska With Sheldon Jackson. Captain R. H. Pratt of the United States army, who for sixteen years has had charge of the famous Indian school at Carlisle, Pa., is at the Palace. He says he has been working very hard and wanted to get away for rest. He stopped at several points in Arizona, and at Pasadena, and is now going to Alaska. En route he will visit the Indian school near Salem, which is the finest on this coast. In Alaska he will meet the Rev. Dr. Sheldon Jackson, the superintendent of the education of the Indians there. Captain Pratt is a big, smooth-faced man, about 50 years old, with broad shonl- ders and a massive face, and he wearsa broad-rimmed, black hat, giving him the appearance of a Quaker. He is a man to be looked at twice. “Ihave been in charge of the school at Carlisle from the beginning,” said Captain Pratt, ‘‘and that has been for the last six- teen years. We have between 750 and 800 Indian girls and young men there all the time. About two-fifthsare girls and three- fifths young men. “The Indians represent fifty-six different tribss, taking in the Cherokees, Coman- ches, Sioux, Apaches and other nations. Our school is industrisl and teaches the | boys the principal tradesand the girls how | to cook, sew and doall kinds of housework. “We also print two papers. One is the Red Man, a monthly, and the o‘her is the ‘‘God Save the Queen,”” “The Star-span- gled Banner” and “Auld Lang Syne. Following 1s the menu: California Oysters on the Shell. Saurerne. Mock Turtle with Amontillado. California Olives. Radishes. Caviar on Toast. 2 Salted Almonds. Grenadin of Striped Bass. Shrimp Sauce. Burgundy. Potatoes Gastronome. ‘Tenderloin of Beef with Mushrooms. Croquette of Sweetbread, S 5 Romaine Punch, Roast Chicken, Giblets Romaine Salad. Champagues. Neapolitan Ice Cream. Ansorted Cakes. Dessert. Coffee. The prominent zentlemen who will oc- cupy seats at the table are: H. B. M. Consul-General J. W. Warbarton, Sir Henry Dering (Bart.), Willi (president British Benevolent Society Rev. W. W. Bolton (secretary Britis Benevolent Society), Wellesley Moore (Vice-Consut), J. W. Hankin, R. B. For- man, Randolph Payne, Dr. W. F. McNutt, George T. Marsh, P. Livingston Dunn, Captain J. Metcalf, W. B. Chapman, A. B. Wilberforce, J. Lloyd Jones, Captain James Sennett, C. F. Mullins, William Balnaves, A. G.Sneath, J. F. McGaule F. D. Brandon, J. Lawson, Dr. H. C. Davis, S. P. Hoiden, Dr. ¢’Evelyn, W. J. Percy Beamish, Dr. R. F. Shields, W. H. Ross, J. H. Wallace, Stanhope Dickinson, Dr. Charles Macdonald, Edward Bosqui, Howard V. Sutherland, J. Horsburgh Jr., J. R. Hardy and captains of British ves- sels in port. e e Park Concert To-Day. Following is the attractive programme pre- pared for the open-air concert 1n Golden Gate ark to-day: March, ‘“Castaldo’ Overture, “Le Selection, “Les Cloches Song, “Row On, My Love”. (Solo for bary “Operatic Potpourri”’. “The Beautiful Galate Selectign, “Un Ballo in Waltz, “My Dream’’.. . Walateufel Descriptive, “Cavalry Charge” Luede Coon’s two step, a Angeline”..... . Lee Johnson STl An Insane Man Escapes. Tim Donovan, 7 Clyde street, was taken to the Receiving Hospital on Friday night and iocked up in a padded cell. Yesterday mor ing he was allowed to walk the corridor, and while the janitor was sweeping out Donovan slipped past him and made his escape. The police were notified and are hunting for Dono- van. London cabmen collectively earn about £2.500,000 a year. iam Doxey | Callingham, R. D. Girvin, Robert Dixon, | e | about ten years ago, when RAZING THE OLD BHOL, Claus Spreckels to Erect a Sup. stantial Three-Story Build- ing in Its Stead. Bricks That at One Time Housed the Celebratsd Starr King. Fifty men and ten teams have ma their presence felt on the south s Market street, between Third and This visitation brings with it de ) in compliance with_orders issued by Cay tain John Tuttle, who has entered into 4 | contract with Claus Spreckels to raz old Bijou Theater to the ground, its reroval excavate for the foundatio a three-story building. This undertaking must be completed | the i3th of June, under a penalty clause i | the agreement. As soon as Contractor Tuttle shall have finished his portion, the Rae Building and Contracting Company will at once com-. mence to replace the old theater building with a substantial structure of stone, iron and brick. The building will be three stories in height and extend from Marke street through to Stevenson in the rear. The old brick, which is now being moved to give place to the more subs tial edifice, has a history in itself. It w first used in the erection of Starr Kir | church on Geary street in 1863, and tt remained until that edifice ruc was razed, Contract | Dennis Jordan purchased the old cht building, using ti.e brick for the con | tion of the theater. i This same contractor was the one who | originally built the church on Gear street. Consequently he had the satis | tion of building two houses with the san | bricks—a lot seldom falling in the wa | builders. 6 | The gocd quality of the brick has been | proven by the fact that iv is about to be | again used in the construction of another | building. | NEW TO-DAY, :?iiiiiii?iiiitiiiiii‘: * Special Saving Sale ¥ Indian Helper, a weekly. The latter has a circulation of between 10,000 and 12,000 | and goes all over the world, to England, | China, Siam and everywhere. The In- | n scholars do all the work of issuing | the papers, being in_charge of Miss M. | Burgess, daughter of William Burgess of San Francisco. “The Indians are sent to the school by selections from the different tribes. We | started out by trying to get the young In- dians among the whites as much as pos- | x‘iible, and we have found that it wasa good | idea. | “Our Indian scholars work through the | summer months in the families of tarmers | mainly. We have got more than 450 of | both sexes who go out nmonimem. The | boys plow and reap and the girls work with the women. ‘*And the result has been amazing. For | four years past the earnings of our boys and girls has been over $22,000 a summer. Yet they say the Indian won’t work. All | this money bave been earned, too, when | ‘g white students are taking a rest. *‘The young Indians are so much in | negmnd during the working season that | thére are three or four times as many applications as can be filled. ‘‘Yes, I have been among the Indians for | a long time. In 1867, when I joined the | regulu_army, I was sent to Fort Gibson, | L T. and was with the scouts for eight | vears. After that I had charge of the| Indian prisoners at Fort Augustine, ¥la., | for three years. There were some of the worst Indians in the country there, but they became very docile. ‘1 haye always taken the position that | the Indian was entitled to zood treatment, | with a chance to make something of him- self. We have got 8,000,000 blacks here and they were brought over here from Africa. Thisis the home of the Indian. My regiment, by the way, was the Tenth, gna of the only two colored regiments we ave. “We have Apaches and Sioux in our school. As for the Apache he is really a good Indian. We had one who was with us for several years who had become a skilled physician and who was a gentle- man—a man of education and refinement. He was stolen from his iribe when a child by the Pimas and sold for $30 to a gentle- man of Chicago, who brought him up. He raduated in medicine, was West with dif- erent agencies for several years and fin- ally when we needed a physician I chose him. We were paying him $1200 a year, but a physician of Chicago wanted him to return there, and he went. He could do better. He was Dr. Carlos Montezuma, a full-blooded Apache. ‘‘Another one was Antonio Apache, a | nephew of old Chief Cochise. He is in | charge of the permanent exhibit of the World’s Fair, and he also is a full-blooded Apache. There is one also with the Penn- sylvania Steel Company at Steelton, who is a great ironworker. There is also a Navajo in the Baldwin Locomotive Works at Philadelphia. Inall there are | about thirty young Apaches who are out making records for themselves in Penn- sylvama. ““There are 250,000 Indians and seventy- five tribes in the United States. Congress appropriates from $7.000,000 to $9,000,000 every year for their support. This policy | degrades them. 7They ought to be separ- | ated, brought up with the whites, and | with them the old aphorism of the Bible, | ‘By the swrat of thy tace shall thou eat | bread,’ should be carried out. The In- | dians will then be a happy people.” | — N HONDR OF VICTOR, British Residents to Give a Banquet To-Morrow at the Palace. Patriotic Songs and Speeches—A List of Prominent Guests—The Menu. £ - > 4 | v { BEER MUGS' > . * » +* » Those quaint ‘¥ (: oldGerman W v b & k- ° Covered - Mugs are all the rage now ¥ - for dining- : room orna- : :} ments. Good tod k bee; ~ frometoo: I 3 - The kind like 3 the picture % * are regularly W & $1 2 (()ln < s t > nightat 76 @ » Cenis. ¢ » == v & Also, 400 BLUEDELFTVASES, § with the popu'ar Windmill dec cr'aflohs,pgo at 30, 45, 65 and ¢ £ & 85 Cents. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. # WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & 00, # 528 and 530 Market St., %27 and 29 Sutter St., S BELOW MONTGOMERY. LT » < PR RAESASALARS :QQQQQQ(QQQQQQQG‘QQ! » TrieSotn Feanceico Uit st 22 Beary St., Near Kearny. Figured Efamines The following remarkable values in Figured Etamines and Creponne Faconne will be placed on sale e Frao? A Monday : IMPORTED ETAMINE SUITS, $17.50 INPORTED ETAMINE SUITS, $25.00 Above goods are usually sold at $25, $35 and $40 a suit. FIGURED MOHAIR SUITS, $3.50 Each Goods Sent C. 0. D. Sampies Forwarded. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. T T T ST, FREUD'S CORSET HOUSE JUST RECEIVED—A LARGE INVOICE OF Long-Waisted P. D. Sans Rhulos'n’;sets. « P.a la Sirene Corsets, Celebrated Royal C. T. Corsets, Elegant N. T. French Corse! Unrivaled Werly Corsets, Ratgal llfrlcy‘:alle Corsets. ng Fashionable LOUIS PARISIAN CORSET and THE X% OLGA CORSE' . The The seventy-seventh birthday of Queen Victoria will be celebrated in this City to- morrow evening, in a manner befitting the greatness of her character and the loyalty of her subjects. ‘William Doxey, chairman of the special committee appointed by the British Benev- olent Society, announces that all pre- liminary arrangements for the banquet at the Palace have been satisfactorily com- pleted. It will be held in the conserva- tory, which will be tastefully decorated with flowers and ferns and American and British flags. There will be patriotic ‘vocal and instramental music and speeches. . The first toast, proposed by Consul-Gen- eral Warburton, will be “The Queen,” then will‘ follow toasts to “The President of the United States,” ‘The Prince: of Wales and the Royal Famuly,” *Califor- nia,” ‘“‘The Marci:m s'"ice." *The British Benevolent Society,”“The Ladies,’ ‘The Press” and “The Chairman.” The toasts will be interspersed with the songs, | ED, “dn gL wioay ‘astag “oduys uy j00ya0d ‘orh3s up mou 49810) Jowwng 10 FupuIIuOA oW FIT GUARANTE PAIRED. CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE-~ CAUTION — Having no agencles or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased ouly at our establishment. Mail orders receive prompt attenslon. Illustrated Catalogue mailed free. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS 'R D o SOINT IVK. » 742-744 Narket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave, NEW TO-DAY. ———— | O NQWS TG SOLE AGENTS FOR THE | MAGGIONI KID GLOVES. CHILDREN'S AND MISSES Underwear Sale The equai of which has never been seen on this coast. All of the following lines are broken sizes, hence the enormous reduc= | in tio At 35¢ [;er Garment. |[EGYPTIAN COTTON SHIRTS, TIGHTS AND PANTALETTES, former prices 65¢, 75c and 850 each, | Sale Price 35c Each. ALL-WOOL SWISS RIBBED COM- BINATION SUITS, in small siz-s, former price 75¢ per suit, Sale Price 35c per Suit. ALL-WOOL SHIRTS AND PANTS, former price 75¢c each, Sale Price 35c Each. | PURE SILK IMPORTED SWISS RIBBED SHIRTS, in small sizes, former price $1 each, Sale Price 35c Each, At 60¢ per Garment. SILK AND LISLE MIXED, WOOL MIXED AND ALL WOOL SHIRTS AND PANTALETTES, former prices $1, $1.25 and $1.50 each, Sale Price 6oc Each. At 75¢ per Garment. ALL-WOOL AND WOOL-MIXED UNION SUITS, former prices $1.50 and $2.00 per Suit, Sale Price 75c per Suit. PURE SILK IMPORTED SWISS RIBBED SHIRTS, former price 1.75 $L10 onctk, Sale Price 75c Each. Mail Orders Promptly Filled. NEWMAN & LEVINSON 125, 127, 129, 131 Kearny Street. BRANCH STORE—742 and 744 Market Street. FOR Fine Tailoring Perfect Fit, Best of Workmanship at ‘Moderate Prices, go fo © JOE POREIM THE TAILOR. PANTS made to order from $4.08 SUITS made to order from $15.00 MY $17.50 ano $35 sSUITS ARE THE BEST iii THE STATE. 201 and 203 Kontgomery St., cor. Bush 724 Market St. 1110 & 1112 Market St, SAN FRANCISCO. TiePHIADELPHIA wis ELECTROLYSIS.G “@é |170MARKET ST CORNERTAYLOR (Over e Maze ) Raiv 28! ERMANESTLY REMOVES SUPLRFLUOUS rby electricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting Lr‘%e:edno scars left; moles, warts, etc., also re- ved. COSMOPFPOLITAN, Opposite U. S. Mint, 100 and 102 Fifth st, Sag krancisco, Cal.—The most select family hotel in ihe clty. 'Boara and room, 31, $1 25 and $1 50 day, according 10 reom. - Meals’ 356, Rooms, 504 and 750 & day. coach to and from the hotel, Look for the coach w% the name of the Cogn mopolitan Holel WA FAHKY, Propriston P S =