The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 16, 1896, Page 26

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 16, 1896. T last San Francisco has been nn- | coat collar is faced with black velvet, and cal power they declared Pad and did not ssom like the rose? arance ned it was a frumipy waist all the house, and some were quite skyed, and I predic Youn the ion of this event. nd next year's debuta have been danc and } e been so souls ready o ne hings h and we are e tired o are older and more sed teas and crus! theater p: kept rolling until the trunk: packed for Monterey, San Ra to be she may in her mar op there tide, when larce pri en. One of the prett as the leap-y: b frocks donned for the will not go into ¢ Is, as ehut your eves and s dear girls looked, nd sweet tempe re admirati I knov as usnal, b eves of one girl ebut, a med with lace, b bewitched ail t be sure and wear her mu ed did it become on ¥ who so adorned it, s ite mu: and n scornfully rustle Ilin r more appro; me of the girls v are apparently sin fon and muslin aff the mothers and grandmoth, ndent in h sat des which are by are velvets and rls and le. e of the teas given by nt were exceed nart cl rich opens in front a8 vest of white kerseym in gold, with gold buttons. smile an the most ela was the California | Judging | j of the audience one grand-opera W ver nes that an equally fashion- La- beautiful hotse on for some days | ntes ng their feet almost off, v that the dear little t worn out, but Lent isal- ebeen rushed , for we who | iate have had our are f find rried will the rs of the weex | cotillon danced by the people, and many were the airy, sion, but ou all can just how all the | who lle the moment she made slin, man- ., who used to uslin ac- and Le other girls a bit of love s nothing to white ‘muslin, priate for iate for will mple , and only re- bro- fied with rare gems : ) maidens 1d wear flowers and risbons as long the youthful | successful, en- ose- s Te- era, The der the spell of a great musician’s | handsome buttons hold down the tabs on and the doubting | B re trying to make us e cape-like epaulets of the cloth. p At this season of silk sale- the wise secure odd lengths of chine e effectively will s shortly, with their plain tailor skirts, and will be our standbys during the sum- mer, and the sleeves of such jaagkets prom- ise fo remain brobdignagian in propor- The morning gown is of figured French , the am-white -ground being i with pure chrysanthemums. Wide e lace makes oroad frills at the elbows rmholes, a pretty scrap of ion embroidered 1 white and a 11 of lace make a pretty effective finish for the neck. Satin ribbons match- g the flowers appear at the elbows and around the waist, all terminating in bows. Women cannot be too careful about mak- ing themselves attractive at all times, and ve find many who are ustally faultlessly arbed almost slovenly in the early morn- so I am a great advocate of pretty sh gowns, which do good service for | breal ays sweet and fresh. For v flannels are best, and for summer I have found flannelettes ex- cellent; those with even the most delicate china-blue lines or figures wash perfectly, and now that ribbons are so inexpensive, vith few exceptions all women can afford Such gowns should nd never indulge in s a la Mother Hubbard. | | | eful triin, for at all times it may w! Imost as pretty without it. modei for a pretty evening gown y received from a celebrated Frenci e is composed of white satin with | chiffon-covered bodice and immense lovely sleeves covered by a billowy mass of white chiffon flouncings ed, by quillings of chiffon; the bodice,has braces ' of elvet. = Another good gown comes same designers. It is of white chine silk with far-apart black stripes and bhurred bunches of pink and blue flowers. The waist and skirt are in the chine, and | the sleeves consist of huge white lace sleeves over black chiffon. The under- | sleeves also are of black chiffon. This cos- me is completed by a huge bow of green velvet at the back of the neck. charming evening gown, the property bride, is of white duchess satin, made with the sleeves dropping off the shoul- ders. - Over the shoulders passes a band of satin with rosettes at the junction of the bands with'the bodice. The sleeves and full chemisette front are of white spangled net, and the gracefully draped revers are embroidered exquisitely in silk and vearls. A trellised design of the same embroidery decorates the edge of the skirt with good fi Another isof thick corded silk of the palest yellow. Bands of gold sequin trimming form shoulder straps, one of which is continued down to the edge of he skirt, outlining an apparent opening skirt over full folds of gold striped net, of whi Bunches of ro: skirt at' one side, and a_golden butterfly holds the opyosite shoulder s in place. mended in Londo: She fascinates the ce on her first appearance in & sum- dress, simply picturesque; beneath y folds of white silk muslin gleams a skirt of rich buttercup satin. The silk | muslin is embroidered here and there with | atall thistle spray. The bodice of the | #ame muslin is draped and held in place | with.loops of narrow buttercup satin ribbon. | A wide ribbon tied at the side forms the y7i SNy 7 7 A WALKING COSTUME. are admirable for skirt ruf- | i the spring | appear in great num- | ases it is well to dispense with | v, but the well-cut gown is | { material the sleeves are also made. | s ornament the bodice and | s now playing at the 3 fieatér, New York, taking the part of Mrs. Lesden, and her gowns are being much discussed and hizhly com- | | sash. With this gown she wears a large | bat of creamy straw, on which is a cluster of blue satin loops and a bunch of forget- me-nots. In the second act a dark blue satin pelisse is worthy of imitation. the back as far as the waist perfectly, and }_hnnce expands into voluminous fullness. “lhe fronts are loose, and when throw: back a dress of shot peacock and dark | peau de soie is seen, with a blouse bodice and deep shoulder frills of chiffon of the same tint. A" pointed collarette of lace relieves the gown. Her velver hat has many wings of iridescent peacock blues and greens, Miss Terry’s gown in the third act is said to be simply exquisite. The skirt is of MIITOr gray peau de soie that has the sur- face of satin, but falls more softiy, and the bodice matches it, but has a. full 'front of gray gauze with bands of white lace in- sertion. The gauzesleeves are puifed, and are met by long gray Suede gloves. The back of the bodice is of peau de soie, al- most close-fitting, save for a trifling amount of fullness that loses itself be- neath a shaped belt of Parma violet velvet. gray velvet with clusters of Parma violets | and a black osprey aigrette. | _The next costume is of pure white satin, with a low-cat bodice. This gown is en- riched by much beautiful crystal iewel work, and the long cloak which is thrown over this splendor is of lime-green velvet edged down the fronts with sable. Itis lined with white satin. The last clever confection is a wonderful black moire, which shows occasional effects It fits at | The toque. worn with this toilette is of | | loops of shot sevres'and gold satin ribbon, fastening a cluster of shaded ostrich | plumes on the left side.” The latest fashion for a smart waistcoat, ftobe worn with tailor-made coats and skirts, is a piece of knitting cut by the tailor to shape. The surface should be the “‘flat pearl,”” the pattern formed by intro- ducing threads of vari-colored wools; for instance,a red or pink waistcoat iscon- | sidered stylish with a black gown, and a | white one with a dark green serge, and Enle green ones have been seen with dark lue. Kioss silk is frequently worked in with the wool, and this is said to be a most decided improvement. Paquin has been adding new luster to his name since chiffons first appeared, for be bandles then with astonishing skill; one in black and red (a combination again in vogue) has a waist of red chiffon, which has a black satin ribbon about four inches wide embroidered in red sequins starting from the neck like the old box pleat, but divided at the ends in two iong strips which crossed and encircled the waist, fastening at the side. A deep collar at the back on reaching the shoulders continues in narrow points on to the sleeves. Doucet is sending out some creations with the most fascinating little zouave coats. One d. of black duchess satin, the back en princess, is described as “charming’’; the front of the bodice forms a zouave coat to the waist. There are im- mense puffs of green velvet, wing-shaped on the shoulder, that end at the elbow in | sleeves of embroidered ecru lace, the full | milet also being of the lace over bright ! yellow velvet which “peeps out here and | | | | | | | | | AN EVENING COSTUME. of moonlight blue that dance hke rays across the somber surface. Her head and | the upper part of her figure are said to be shrouded in diapbanous black drapery. As a result of taking advantage of some of the recent sales a pretty golden-haired | maiden looks charming ina draped bodice of turquoise-Llue velvet, which has shoul- der-straps and waistband of cut jet. The sleeves are of accordion-pleated black chif- fon over blue taffeta, and the skirt is of black satin, with two ruffles of pale-blue silk around the edge inside. Velvet should not be passed by, for even a small piece of twoand a half yardsin combination, if on a delicate lighi shade, can be used for the evening. The youth- ful or inexperienced shopper should avoid bargains in jet, as only a connoisseur can purchase satisfactorily, and cheap laces, excepting for wash dresses, are a delusion and a snare, as they are so emphatically common when used with good materials. A lovely model for a middle-aged woman is a princess dress of black velvet, the collar and revers of pale pink glace silk covered with cream-colored lace and edged with a-black chiffon frill borderea with Valenciennes lace. These revers can be attached with good effect just below the waist with bandsome diamond or paste buttons. The vest is of black chiffon hand painted and traced with beautiful sequins. - he dowagers are like lovely pictures nowaday in their velvet gowns, their rare jewels and fine laces. I'must not forget to relate that there is a new jeweled stom- acher, a flexible one, that curves in to suit the figure. It is said to be “a marked im- provement on the old rigid scintillating masses of stones. The designer can throw out lovely, graceful spray®, and make an ornament that is grace itself,”” and in these davs of reckless expenditures one finds that magnificent jeweled belts are notso very rare among the smart set, and ex- tremely superb buckles set with precious stones are owned by most New York belles. - Quite the most chic of parasols was given a Paris bride last month. It was of White silk covered with frills of costly lace, mounted on a stick of polished steel which was sét with pearls. Among other gifts Wwas a pair of diamond wings for her hair with pearl centers. Redfern has designed a visiting eostume for midwinter of dark blue sevres cloth, *‘with a deep yoke of cyclamen velvet, ap- plique at the edge, with ornaments of clair de lune embroidery, those immedi- ately in front being fringed. A tiny edzing of mink fur is used to conceal the fasten- ing of the bodice. Armlets of velvet edged on each side by clair ae iune and outlined by mink at the waist finish the | full sleeves, and a rosetted stock collar of | velvet encircles the neck. The skirt of full plain shape is footed with a narrow border of mink and the front has stoles of the tyclamen velvet clasped in folds at intervals with ornaments of clair de lune. The large hat designea to wear with the gown is of cyclamen velvet, trimmed with there” and is edged with narrow skunk, which is so prepared that it has the ap- pearance of fox. A collar-ruff finishes the neck, which is fastened at the back with numerous loops in the yellow velvet. Two or three dainty frocks will shortly accompany a pretty girl down to Santa Barbara, one of white silk with stripes of | yellow satin; the low-cut bodice is draped with yellow net, over which are appiiqued | lace roses and seed pearls almost cover | the rest of the surface. I like her toilette of pale blue moire silk with its Louis XVI coat and deep corselet of white brocade outlined with silver. The chemisette is of black chiffon over white satin and the col- lar band is of the same combination and endsin a chou of turquoise blue on either side. I quite lost my heart*o a gown she has just received from one of our cleverest dressmakers, Itis of rose pink satin, the skirt being adorned with ruches of black chiffon edged with creamy lace. The bodice of the satin is veiled with the chif- fon, which has insertions of the lace, and frills of it edge -the ruche-at the neck. The sleeves carry out the same idea, and best of all this is an eld dress done over. That the princess gown will be. much worn there can be no reasonable doubt, as at two of the smartest weddings of the sea- son the mothers have worn their toilettes so cut. One was of royal purple velvet opening over a petticoat of whité satin em- broidered in seed pearls outlined with gold, the revers and vest being of the same. The other creation was of hunter’s green velvet with front of the most exquis- itely embroidered chiffon over lighter green satin, ° Y A quaint theater wrap, a la Pierrot, which would please most of us, is of white Roman satin lined with ermine. The +‘Pierrot’’ ruff around the neck is a modi- fied one, composed of black and white chiffon, black under, white -over, to pro- duce a shot effect. Large black velvet buttons go down each side of the front; They have pieces of silk fixed in half- sleeve form to front lining of capelike sleeve, so as to be used if required in cold weather. Cape sleeves can be lined to match the cloak. ; Tor early spring model hats are already being completed in Paris. Itis predicted that a fine, fantastically woven straw, cov- ered with woodbine in the most delicate colorings, perfectly copied from nature, will be a favorite, Meadow-sweet is a flower which is to be much used, being springy aud effective as the white, fluify branches lend themselves admirably to this season violets will be in evidence, as large hats of many shaded ones, with cachepeignes of Nice roses, have been seen by -a New York correspondent,.and for a picturesque, useful chapean I can heart- ily recommend. them as they go charm- ingly with most summery and spring-like costumes, The craze for old English silver is in- creasing in proportion as the difficulty to Secure rare specimens increases. It will 8oon amount to a mania, as no longer do the popular aigrette effect. As usual at| Pe | productions from the originals.” A TASTEFUL MORNING GOWN. the old shops in out-of-the-way places in | Europe teem with such treasures. The: have almost all been eagerly ransacked, | and in England as much interest is being | shown in collecting tableware of theseven- | teenth and eighteenth centuries asis mani- | fested in this country. Tea and coffee were introduced in the seventeenth century, so tea and coffee potsof that period are in the | greatest demand when the ball marks are | distinctly to be seen. Much silverware is being made in close imitation of old English models, and - as one writer says: ‘It is astonishing to note in the reproductions of the quaintold English decorations, in flat chasing, in pierced work, fluting, and in arabesque borders, the irregular edges that proclaim the handiwork of the skilled silversm'th, rather than the perfect finish of the ma- chine. Without the aid of the hall marks it would be difficult to distinguish the re- | Among the most acceptable of weddine presents this year are to be mentioned the Louis XV candelabra in silver or silver bronze. They have but two lights and are low enough to be placed upon the dinner- table, where they are wonderfully effec- tive when there is a buttercup satin slip, with guipure insertion upon the board. The candles in this case should be yellow | and the shades can be white, with meda lions of old engravings of court beauties; and, speaking of dinner tables, reminded me that the latest craze is for old two- bandled, engraved glass bottles and™ the red and white wine decantered therein makes a very effective feature of the table. | Smaller presents for brides are also mat- ters worthy of thought, and old mustard- pots; or those which are good reproduc- tions of old styles, are acceptable, as are also salt-cellars, pepper-boxes, liqueur glasses upon silver rests, tiny bonbonnieres for holding either sweetmeats or powder | puffs, with every useful or useless article with which we long to fill our cabinets. ‘ Chocolate cups set in vermeil are to be | noted as novelties, beautiful hues being much prized. 2 I have been reading about a gentle- woman who is a perfect vandal; she is | quite a distinguished woman, strange as it may seem. She has in_her possession a rare and exquisite “old master,”” which hitherto she has keptin her gallery, be- cause she did not consider the nude suit- able for exhibition in her drawing-room. A few days ago she requested her German governess, ah amateur artist, to paint clothing on the figure. Naturally, the effect is extraordinary, but it now hangs in her drawing-room. Allow me to remark that the lady does not live here. Brass bedsteads conlir“le in high favor, and many are “‘beautifully dressed.” Ex- quisite pillow shams and spreads are now to be had of exceedingly fine muslin or mull, edgea with .a deep ruffie. Both ruffle and spread are artistically em- broidered with a "design of leaves and flowers in white. The heavy Renaissance and Irish lace spreads and shams are handsome and eifective. These are very handsome, but not so exquisitely aainty as the musiin ones. Lace spreads are usualiy seen over silk matching the colors of the room. One width of silk cut lengthwise is enough for the pillows, trimmed with lace. ~Two widths of the wide upholstery silk sewn together form the spread, which should be trimmed all around with lace set on the silk instead of on the edge of it. Many of the new and pretty cotton goods that come in delicate colorings are used for this pur- ose instead, ana of course the exquisite i:‘rench lawns are much-in demand for this purpose; for instance, I found one covered with the most natural of wild roses scattered over a white ground; this if used over pink sateen with the best results; and 1 saw another in a friend’s Toom through which ran alternate stripes of narrow light green and milk roses that was used over green cam- bric and had a frilied edge with lace. All properly dressed peds have the pillows removed in the morning, their place being taken by the bolster, which is round and hard, being stuffed with hair, flat on the ends, where the silk brocade or cotton stuft is gathered into a rosette. This arrange- ment is excellent, as the bed has a neat trim look and the sheets are not visible. Slippers, such as were worn 100 years FACES! No artificlal complexion or “enameled beauty" Ought to be tolerated since the discovery of that wonderful scientific skin food, LOLA MONTEZ CREME The skin absorbs it—feeds on it—and is purified ©of Blemishes, Wrinkles are filled out and healthy color restored. Naturally beautiful complexions are made proof against the ravages of time, work and worry. MRS. HARRISON usesit. She is 40 and looks 5. " Jar, lasting three months, 75 cents. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ermanently. removed by the only successtul means aver discovered—the Electric Needle, as operated by Mrs. Harrison. ¥ 1 Ladies out of town | RIAL . sending this ad with 10c in stamps will_recelve a book of instructions e 2.0x of Lol Montez Creme and Face Fowder Come this week to my parlors and see what I can do for you. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, DERMATOLOGIST, 40 and 42 Geary S$t., San Francisco, Cal, ago, are again being made by some cele- | brated shoemakers, as oniy such can make | gi] slippers with heel& 51; inches high suc- | cessfully. Very short women are said to | have hailed them with delight. They are | of satin or brocade and have huge buckles, | but I think we have too much sense in | America to indulge in such footgear, as | such heels are sure to secure for the wear- ers after hours of agony, provided they do not break their necks trying to walk in them the first time. MARCELLA. N et FOR MEN, The mania for collecting posters has reached here and many bachelors’ dens are being adorned with odd ones. Not only the best to be found in San Francisco are in evidence, but also many from Paris, some strikingly original. For men some attractive articles in silver have lately been put on the market, such as flasks, the silver cups of which are | adorned with spurs, whips, crops and horseshoes; a cigar-case is to be had on which isengraved a jockey mounted on a whip. | Itvis strange but true that most Amerl- ican shirtmakers still insist on making | shirts with small, little cuffs that reveal | puart_of the shirt sleeves every time the hand is elevated. Business coats are made like shooting coats, with three buttons, not abruptly cutaway, but more like a sack coat—the pockets with flaps, single-breasted and a notched collar. They may be of mixed goods or of black vicuna. A frock coat should be faced with silk, never with satin. Going downtown a few mornings ago, I | could not but remark that s well-known NEW TO-DAY. Spécial Saving Sale. | A pretty Decorated. Haviland China Af- ter - Dinner Coffee or 5 O’Clock Tea Cup and Saucer with a beautiful little Sterl- ing Silver Spoon for 75 cents,worth $1.50. © Just the thing sz for your tea table. That’s for Monday, Tues- day and Wednesday only, rémem- | ber—Wednesday night ends it. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO., 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. WALL PAPER! JAS. DUFFY & CO. Have REMOVED to No. 20 Gg_ry Street. GREAT REDUCTION TO CLOSE OUT LAST SEASON'S P..TTERNS TO NMAKE ROOM FOR THE NEW WINDOW SHADES! Any Color, Size or Kind, WHOLESALE+—AND——RETAIL. THESUCCESS OF THE SEASOY THE LADIES GRILL ROOM: ——OF THE— | sigh of satisfaction! | husband ? iti ing j i ds, and on was wearing jeweled shirtstuds, :{lt;zgonducmr plain mother-of-pearl ones. White duck trousers with black vicuna e lounge coats will be as much as g;csre;‘:en during the coming season. 7 All the ties for spring will be gay in coloring; red and green will probably be most smart. In adjusting the Ascot, re- member to first form the center-piece or knot, and having done this, the two ends must be well elevated; they are then pulied moderately taut, so as to prevent the selvedge from falling away from the top of the knoc,f and the result will be ruch better in effect, 3 An authority says: MoThe very best four- in hands and Ascots are made from the de Joinvilles. De Joinvilles can be bought in the natural. wool, from the haberdasher, for from §1 up to $5. These have a band twined in without cutting the silk; _the haberdashier will have this done. When orderine the band insist that it shall be good and wide. -There is no use in purchas- ing a handsome de Joinville if it is cut all to pieces. When the novice becomes pro- ficient in the tying of a de Joinville, he will cease to buy the made-up or the reg lation and much-worn tieable scarfs of the lined and padded school. : “A de Joinville will not only give the best scarf effect obtainable, but it insures you the enjoyment of a pattern that is not to be found by the gross in the popular- priced stores.” TYPICAL AMERICAN HUSBAND. The Business Man Has Little Time to Cultivate Fireside Amenities. The tyve of American husband most | familiar among us, however, is the man of | busy energies, kindly, affectionate, proud of his family, with whom he is free-handed and sympathetic in their pleasures, who might if the stress of making a livelihood would leave him free to do so, enjoy do- mestic life heartily, and aid in bringing the married- state to be what good old Dicky Steele described it in the Tattler: ““A complication of all the pleasures of lifa and a retreat from its inguietudes.”” But, alas! under the conditions of modern money-grubbirg what opportunity has the poor man to cultivate fireside_ameni- ties and bang garlands upon the Lares of his heartn? In New Y for instance, he hurries away from home directly after eating a hasty breakfast, to return to it late in the day, fagged from the incessant and nervous grinding of the mill down- town, and ravening for his dinner. At such a moment, all the charms and the virtues combined in one wife often cannot win smiles or playful speech from any husband so beset; and a wise woman effaces herself until the post-pran- dial hour gives her a reasonable hope of claiming his conversation. At this period of the evening, unless she is a mere monger of nursery gossip or a household drudge, her spirit, braced and expanded by the idea of independence and responsi- bility, is eager for the fray of ideas. She longs for the interchange of sentiment on current topics, while her heart (an organ among our wives apt .to be fairly well stored with conjugal affection) owns to a little joyous thrill of satisfaction in the tete-a-tete that has lost notiing by years of repetition. To it, even the grown chil- dren are an interruption; and she sees them go their several ways in search of more active entertainment with almost a What, at this inter- esting juncture, is'the attitude of the ideal What, of the real! husband? These are queries to be answered by obser- vation or by experience.—North Ameri- can Review. Leap Year ment, At 8 public tea-party recently held in ona of our country towns where “sentiments’ were in order a timid bachelor was bold enough toremind the youngladiesthat leap year was upon them by offering the fol- lowing: 3 Three long weary years have I waited for t Now if yowll pop the question, E T resn To which a lady promptly responded as follows: The man without courage may do his ow wooing; May co his own washing and baki nd sewing. The bachelor looked despair. — Spare Moments. NEW TO-DAY. (ITYZPAR CALICO DEPARTMENT! We are now showing a large and varied assortment of NEW SPRING WASH GOODS, Comprising Dimities and Lawns, at 12ic, 15¢, 172, 20¢ and 25¢ a Yard. Choice English Novelties, Ducks, Cheviots, Madras Suit- ings, Honeycomb Cloths, Galateas and MANCHESTER CHAMBRAYS, French Plain and Figured Organdies, Batiste Fancies, Grenadines, Colored Piques, Plain and Figured Dotted Swiss, etc., ALL BEING SOLD at POPULAR PRICES FANCY WASH WAISTN! We have justopened our new spring stock of WASH WAISTS .in all the latest styles and PALAGE HUTEL materials — Lawns, Dimities, > L Percales, Batiste, Ginghams, DIRECT ENTRANCE FROM MARKET SI..| etc., etc. OPEN UNTIL MIDNIGHT. IRON BEDS, ° BRASS BEDS, FOLDING BEDS, Wire and Hair Mat- tresses, Reclining Chairs, Wheel Cbairs, Commodes, Back Res:s W. A. SCHROCK, New Montgomery St., under Grand Hotel, S, F. NOTARY PUBLIC. (CHARLES M. PHILLIPS, ATTORNEY-AT law and Notary Public, 638 Market st. site Palace Hotel. * Residence, 1620 Fel ‘phone 670. Residence telephone, “Pine 3501 Prices ranging from 85¢t0 $2.50, SE HABLA ESPANOL. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Cor. Geary and Grant Ave. VILLE DB PARIS. BRANCH' HOUSE, LOS ANGELES.