The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 17, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 1895. Evening gowns are now receiving much attention, and not a few very exquisite ones have been seen at recent dinners and receptions.. A frock of rosy taffeta, veiled with smoky colored mousseline de soie em- | broidered with a dainty green vine, is artistic. . Green and rosy pink ribbons a waistband and sash with long ends t the back: * ok k k Kk A dress I fancy is of lime-green silk; the t-is set in pleats all round, and the bodice has a arie Antoinette fichu of nest lace, which falls gracefully over im- ense sleeves. Black satin will hold 1its for both young and elderly matrons wonderfully becoming for dinner The rich fabric is usually elabor- y embroidered with cut jet or tiny ns—one such confection had the en- tire- skirt, excepting the front breadth, powdered with sequins. The bodice bad a of the same fabric buttoned with The corsage was of the satin, covered with jetted net, which ed a deep frill around the low- nd also formed the sleeves. I quote the description of another black n evening dress: “It poasted a bodice e of black net with-a white lace ap- plique, traced with silver sequins.” I ou ggest that the seams of such a be outlined with the sequins, s should and Californ dition to.the bodice. * k k k %k 1 do not admire tea gowns made of this material. - Still they are fashionable if the fronts are of Pompadour or the blurred Dresden silk. And that reminds me that remarkably handsome Dresden and Persian silks are to be had in our stores, indeed, a wonderfully complete stock is ‘o be seen, | and teagowns when composed of -these fabrics, “with chiffon. or mousseline de goia fronts, are dreams of beauty which | not many canindulge in as they are extrav- | agances. * x k k &k From Paris comes the information that Felix greatly favors theé Marie Antoinette | effects for evening wear, and he continues tomake the skirt of dresses short, close on the hips and gored at the seams, put in at the waist ‘behind in two large pleats, but begins to trim the lower part a little with bands of fur or velvet. He isalso trying | to bring in bodicés pointed in front with a | Jittle - postillon. basque at ¢he back, close- fitting and minch trimmed. This true ar- tistis usi tensively all sortsof nov- me-of which he has made Those of the Cashmere s have met with much success. oa styles of brocades usually have grounds- over which are scattered ded flowers. * %k k k K Woolen gowns are frequently given the necessary -touch .of color by the addition of-a’blue .or green velvet stock. The newest shades of blue most fashionable and difficult ‘to find are called ‘‘bleu de Sevres” and ‘‘biue deroi.” I saw a belle from across the bay a few days ago clad in of the new woolen fabrics. It had a rk blue ground over which were raised It was made absolutely plain to perfection, but it owed its c dark lines. and-fit Frenchy velvet. in the “blen de Sevres’ shade, which is remarkably becoming to biondes. * k k * * We never see. redingotes now made of anything but the richest materials, and they are always richly lined with colored silk.. One design in New York is of asilk i velvet in & biscuit. shade, over which are gracefully scattered bunches of small dark crimson flowers. ‘The vestof this garment is of creamy lace over crimson silk, with | which' the garment is lined tnroughout. With it ‘goes. a skirt of biscuit-colored velvet lined ‘with the bright silk. The revers are deeply notched and edged with an exquisite and very narrow passemen- terie. i violets would be a great ad- | air to the fact that the stock was | fashion plates. | many good gowns were worn. Mrs. Lang | try, who knows so well what suits our style, wore ‘a voluminous gray tweed | suit ana full brown velvet blouse, the linen | sailor collar worked in_an open gold pat- ation she had on tern.” With this com {a black velvet hat, | feathers. I know all sorts of combinations | are now worn, but from the description of | this outfit I should say she must have | looked decided!ly stagey and couid not have | failed to have attracted attention. * *x k k X A Frenchy gown lately worn at a race | by one of tiie best-robed women in Paris, the Marquise de Breteuil, is spoken of as a | pretty dress of white woolen canvas with a shrimp-pink velvet bodice ornamented with guipure; white felt hat with white plumes and turned up at the back with pink roses. On the same occasion Mrs. Munroe appeared in mouse-gray cloth with a vest of salmon silk covered with white Jace. Her hat was of gray velvet match- ing the cloth as the shaded roses did the silk. * k * Kk Kk White satin revers and vests are seen on many tailor gowns, imparting a dressy and glace kid eing used on tweed es as turn-down collars with good te | Kok ok | ~ Caracule is much used for three-quarter | length capes and for trimming. | * KX K Kk * -3 dres | effect excellently well attended. At one _the | hostess wore a chic creation of pale Nile green faille. It wasen traine, the bodice | having an exquisite yoke of iridescent embroidery on the lightest silk net. With this gown were worn a gracefully arranged bunch of California v The tout en- semble was most_art At this same tea a tall, stately girl, who assisted in re- ceiving, was charming in pale blue, the skirt of her dress being of blue silk and the waist of a delicate white and blue crepon. A youthful matron wore a light-figured silk gown of a creamy tinge; the bodice was of pink accordion-pleated chiffon, over which was festively arranged some jeweled passementerie. * Kk k Kk %k The reception yesterday on Pacific ave- nue—for such it was, instead of a ‘‘tea”— was in every way delightful. Lovely faces met the gaze at every turn: indeed, so at- tractive were some of the maidens that I almost forgot to look at their gowns. But among all the fetching maidens the daughters of my hostess held their own. one to decide which was the prettiest. I hair; indeed, I am certain that ancient author who spoke of a woman’s crown being her hair must have been thinking of just such tresses. As the sisters stood to- gether for a few moments I could not but wish some artist coald have transferred them to canvas, for both are types of which California may weli be proud. Now, about the dresses. Just imag- ine the prettiest debut ones you have ever read about and you will understand the perfection of the creations worn by the two debutantes, and equally pretty were the gowns of several of the girls who assisted in receiving, and the guests were, many of them, beautified There were Louis XV and Lovis XVI coats in velvets and brocades, coat basques and the most lovely of caps and hats, oh, such hats, real beauti | some with nodding feathers, some with rhinestones and cloudv Dresden ribbon ana some with such ribbons and roses and { feathers combined as the old mas- ters must have dreamed about. No mere milliners created some of these chapeans, but artists, true geniuses. One toque, which came direct from la belle Paris, was of a dark, rich shade of green velvet. with { acrown having a Persian effect, embroid- ered with opals and turquoises and a mere touch of gold; another had a band of gold around it of the palest, clear- est most celestial blue, above which rose a tiny winged diadem of frosted silver fila- ok =g Recently in Paris the Comtesse de Cas- | tellane (nee Gould) has worn two costumes which were much admired; one was of dark green cloth, made with a plain skirt; | short bodice,with reveres of white guipure over silk. .She appeared in this at the races; and in a dinner given in her honor | shie Iooked well in white chiffon spangled with silver. The neck of the low bodice | was surrounded with diamonds and span- | gles. The sleeves were great billowy clouds of tne chiffon. Her jewels were as usual magnificent. The Marquise de Castellane, | her stately mother-in-law, wore a robe of Jlain white satin, beautified with priceless ace. = Velvet hats.and toques are in vogue in Paris. On the hats are seen costly plumes, making headgears a serious consideration. The trimmings usually give a wide effect, and are placed at either the back or sides. Aigrettes continue to increase in size, and pre either cut off at the top, giving a bushy effect, or they appear to growout ot a bunich of tips. Straight feathers are again to be seen in imported hats, nm’i_ are “placed at the side in bows of velvet. * ok k kK A few weeks ago I heard a sad tale from a young housekeeper concerning two hand- some. tablecloths which had been scorched. Sne asked if anything could be done to Testore: them to their proper color. I told her at the time that I knew of pothing that would produce the desired result, and here I have just found what is said to be an excellent recipe for mildew and scorch: “Scorched linen may be restored to its proper color by dampening it and laying it out on the grass to bleach; the dsmpemnF must be many times repeated. The fol- lowing mixture will remove scorch and mildew: 1-ounce curd soap, % wpovnd fuller’s éarth, the juice of 4 onions and 1-pint ‘of viregar. Spread it on the scorched part and atlow it to dry on, after which _ringe in clear water and let it dry. The mixture:may be put in a pickle bottle, {and it rested on a | who has_bright chestnut locks and the gree, from which sprung, at the left side, a snowy-white aigrette, such a beauty, young woman’s head brownest of eyes. Not afew of the black | velvet hats were remarked, and some of the i prettiest had a touch of either blue, green or yellowish velvet nestling against the hair. Rbinestones and cut steel vied with each seen. One large hat had a black velvet brim and a very beautiful crown of white satin covered with rich lace, and a very small, fine black felt was a com- | bination of ever-popular violets, feathers | (black ones), fur mink tails, and a rolling black, and one of white velvet. ‘“‘Conceive it if you can.” It was an up-to-date chapeau, but, oh! I suppose I mustchange the subject, but will tell you more next week. * k k k * A ball will be given on_the 25th of this month at the Occidental Hotel and all the Daughters of the American Revolution are invited. It is to be a ‘‘bal poudre” and I presume many good gowns will be in evidence and, as usunal at the Occidental Hotel, everything will be well conducted. Society will *‘do itself proud’ at the char- ity concerts so soon to be given for the poor suffering little children at the hos- pital. This is a tender-hearted com. munity, which never refuses to assisi worithy charities; as a result the concerts will be social events. * * k k k Now everybody is talking ‘‘horse show” and I can predict that the toilettes being prepared for it will be marvels of taste and beauty. * k % k k At a recent dinner given in Paris the Grand Duchess Elizabeth of Russia wore an extremely handsome stomacher and tiara of black and white diamonds of fabu- lous value. The French women presenton this occasion are said to bave gazed with wonder on these gems, for many of them <orked, and it will keep for some time.” % * % Kk Kk Kk At the “Sandown meeting’’ I read that sessed great strings of pearlsand ropes gfliamongu, but all faded into insignifi- cance when the fair Russian appeared. ered with white | The teas this week have been pretty and | Both are belles, and it was bard for any | must confess I have a weakness for Titian | other as ornaments, but little jet being | Never before have jewels been in such de- mand. They adorn everything, from the crowns of our hats to the gay little buckles that gleam so brightly on our slippers. * k k Kk Kk We haveall heard so much about the new Duchess, her trousseaum, etc., that really nothing new could be written, but after hearing and reading that her wed- ding gown and, indeed, most of her cloth- ing, was from Parisdirect, 1 was pleased to learn that that very successful and skillful woman, Mrs. Donovan, one of New York’s best dressmakers, really made the young bride’s wedding wown, although the de- sign was from Doucet, and another point worthy of remark, as a change from a usual fashion, was the wearing of short white gloves. * k k k * All the girls wore during the summer detachable yokes and collarettes ot chiffon, Swiss and ‘embroidered muslins, and be- came so greatly attached to them that our bright maidens have evolved for winter wear yokes and little collars as well as cuffs of satin and velvet. A yoke of white satin, covered with very open black lace and edged by two frills, the under of white, the upver of black lace, and deep cuffs to match, will make even a_compar- atively old black gown exceedingly pretty and becoming. If a girl is clever with her needle she can make ary number of such dainty things. A remark made in connec- tion with colored satin yokesis worth re- membering, and that is that in such cases only black lace should be used for the frills. * k k Kk % At the California Theater tb's week some very good gowns were worn. The heiress in the “War of Wealth'’ looked extremely well in a stylish gown of black and white with which she wore a pretty Paris hat, but Miss Booth dressed with good taste on all occasions. Mrs. Worley wore a good green changeable-silk costume. | * k ok k * and they will be_somewhat belled. Ham- burg hats are enjoying great vogue. H%mespun is “being used as much as tweed for outing costumes. Golf and cycling caps should be made of the same material as the suit. * k % k Kk For evening wear the Inverness shows but few changes in the cut; as usual the cape is rather long, covering the sleeves. These coats when made in England always have a rather clerical collar, and are usually made of a rough finished cheviot. Fora man who goes out much the Inverness is a necessity, as it never crushes or creases his shirt, as an overcoat may. C.C. —_— A GREAT CITY'S ANNOYANOES. Bab Comes in Violent Contact With One of Them and Tumbles and Is Bruised. NEW YORK. N. Y.; Nov. 12.—Blessed are those people who do not have to ride or walk on the streetsof New York. When they are not arranging to have a cable laid for the annihilation of small children they are digging up the ground, presum- ably to mend the gas pipes; in reality, to | let you know how the gas smells. Or else, somebody, with a great deal of money, is tearing down an old house and putting up a new building, which necessitates the walking of the population in the middle of the street, or else the climbing up a flight of shackley steps and | crossing over a bridge that is truly | one of sighs, because of the accidents that | happen on it. Day before yesterday I fell up the steps of one of these ghastly struc- tures and tore a new fur wrap, and then | fell down and got myself black and blue ‘where it isn’t pleasant to be black and blue. chaises one has the doubtful pleasure! | first, of heing overcharged, then of being banged up and down and rattled about, and of living in agony for fear that the cable-carand the horse will come in con- tact. The average cabman prefers Broad- way, because of its many dangers. He is a conceited beast, who likes to show how brave he is by risking your life, and al- though you pay for the privilege of being driven by him all the pleading imaginable won’t induce him to stick to a quiet street. i There is no country in the world except this young one where people submit so | quietly to being cheated and maltreated. ‘0 my certain knowledge there is one | block in New York, and I lived on it,where they first took up one side of the street to bury the wires; then they took up the A new sport has been discovered for and the courses are said to be as difficult | women in Austria, that of steeplechasing, | other to bury the steam pipes, and then they took up the middle of it to accom- | modate both of these companies and make READY FOR A i il 7 o - M i THE S1IRE.T, [From Le Moniteur de la Mode.] and dangerous as those to be found any- | where. The Empress Elizabeth herself inaugurated this reckless amusement. The costumes worn are said to be ‘‘exceed- ingly fetching, consisting of & very short dark babit skirt and a silk jacket and peaked cap in the racing colasir the riders.”” We have some excellent horse- | women here who would undoubtedly en- joy this exhilarating amusement. MARCELLA. e FOR MEN. Trousers are to be worn tighter this sea- son, but it is to be hoped they will never 2o to the extreme in this direction, as that would be even more objectionable than the excessively wide ones. * k k k k The Prince of Wales is said to favor this winter soft shades of gray in tweeds, and ties of a subdued shade. Indeed, although gayly colored ones are being shown, our London friends cling to dark and somber | shades and wear the Ascot and Teck a great deal. It is reported that more ties than scarfs are seen. * k k k k As the Tuxedo increases in popularity many questions are constantly asked con- cerning it, for instance, of what cloth should it be made? when and where should it be worn, etc. Vogue so thoroughly an- swers all these questions that I quote a re- ply given to a subscriber: “A Tuxedo suit would be very smart made of a dress worsted or vicuna, or crepe worsted. \ It should be made with a shawl collar, very Jong, of silk, extending to the waist, with one hole for a boutonniere. The lapels should be sharply slanted. The roll orshawl collar should be of moderate width, and there should be no outside pocket to the coat or jacket. The waistcoat should be cut shield shape, with four buttons. The trousers should be moderately wide, with no spring. The Tuxedo. or Cowes, or din- ner, or smoking jacket or suit is worn at | hom at dinner *in the evening onall in- formal evening occasions, to the play in the evening, at stage parties, bachelor din- ners, ete. In other words, a man should always wear his Tuxedo in_the evening, xcept on very formal occasions, dinners, | dances, weddings, receptions etc., when he dons the full dress or evening dress.” The word mufti is frequently used in fashion articles describing men’s clothing, and means mornipg dress, indeed may be used in reference to any costume which cannot be classed as formal dress, such as golfing or cycling costumes. * & k k k Fancy waistcoats are not in the best of form except in special cases and are seldom seen in winter. The very latest visiting-cards for men are engraved in Gothic type, but script is perfectly correct. Spats_are in favor East, dark gray or drab being worn with gray trousers, but with a black suit the spats should match. Hats are to bave a curl to their brims the thinz even. As a public we are the most long-suffering and the most amiable of any in the world. Neither the English nor the French people would endure this, especially when it is_realized that the means are to an end that is perfectly frightful. If good, smooth pavements re- sulted after all this digeing up nobody would mind; but our pavements are worse than cooutry roads and rougher—well, rougher than the men I saw in a political Frocession the other night. Why can’twe have a wooden pavement? Because it costs a great deal, and the people who have charge of the pavements are quite willing that the public should be uncomfortable, provided their salaries are large. So they placidly announce that wooden pavements won’t stand much traffic, and forget that the traffic in London is a little larger than it is here. Oh, New York is small and provincial—and—and yet, with all its faults, etc., etc. By the by, it is rather amusing, at the time of the Vanderbilt wedding, to read that the English presents would not come here because of tge duty on them. Eng- lish wedding presents are, without excep- tion, the best things to buy in the whole wide world. To give—not to receive. Here, when we give a present we im- poverish ourselves, or else steal, to pay jor it, but the presentis a fine one. How- ever, if you pick up an English news- paper and read the account of a very smart wedding you will discover aiter the description of the bridal gown a list of presents, and it will read something like this: “The Duke and Duchess of Mean-to-Live and the five Laaies Guy, a silver button-hook; the Earl and Connt- ess of How-Come-You-So, a photograph frame; the Honorable Adolphus and Lady Starvation, a silk blotter; the Marquis and Marchionese of Ready-to-go and Lord Reginald Get-there, two silver bangles; the Misses Blueblood, a set of neat account books; the sisters of the bride, the seven Ladies Pretty-but-poor, gave her a silver ring that had been lett to them by their randmother, the Countess of Fuss-and- ‘eathers; the Hon. Mr. Heartstone sent one of his own books, with a most charm- ing inscription, while our dear Queen, who is always so generous, gave the biushing bride a cashmere shawl.” Of course we g0 to one extreme and they go tothe other, but outside of family jewels and the really magnificent giits that usually come from the newly made peers, English wed- ding presents are a bcautiful sham. As for us, we are donkeys, and give our heads away. Probably, when we are ‘a little older we will reach the photograph frame and blotting-case period; then we will be wiser and richer. During what is known as the silly sea- son on the other side of the water, and which with some people lasts all the year round, they invariably bring up some uestion, and then everybody writes to the newspapers. In Paris they have been pitching into and upholding, according to their lights, the English, French or Amer- ican girl. In London they have been gloating over the necessity of love before marriage, and in Edinburgh about man 1n types (if the printer persists in putting Even if one can afford to ride in, that “tights” itis not my fault). One type is always admired by women, and that is the big-bodied, big-hearted, lovable man. A big man is a boon, a blessing and every- thing else nice that you can think of beginning with a B. Undoubtedly Eve’s afection for Adam was due to his size. The Orientalists say that he was so tall that when he stood in Paradise his head was in heaven and that the angels admired him so much that it was thought wiser for him to have a fall. Hence that little affair in which Eve, the serpent and Adam, with the fruit served according to taste, came about. 1 never knew a little man who had any great love for anybody but himself. A big man can lift a woman if she hasa nervous headache from one bed to another, and from one chair to another, not only as if she was a feather but with a certain security that makes her feel very grateful. Did you ever see a big man hold a baby? He 'does it carelessly and looks as if he was going to drop it, but the expression in the baby’s face satisfies its mother that it feels secure, and so everything is right. I confess to liking a big priest. He always looks more capable of battling with the world, the flesh and the devil. There may be nice little men, but they are not on my list. And the only handsome little man I ever knew, and he really did look like a cherub, used to pose for everybody’s benetit, and once said to his mother before me, “Really I must go out more. The girls—ah !—don’t you know—want to look at me.” There’s & little man for you. He can’t even look like a fat, dimple rosy- cheeked baby without concluding the rest of the world ™ is interested in his appear- ance. Then a little man is apt to be fussy about little things. He wants to know when he comes home at night about every- thing that has happened during the day, and he don’t want you to generalize and say, “Well, I went out and bought a new gown,” but he wants you to tell him how many yards and what it cost, and in a meditative way he wonders if youcouldn’t have done with less. That is the sort of man that brings about divorces. Thatisa cause for divorce—interference in one’s belongings. Sometimes this type of man can sew. I once heard of cne who made a set of dollies. But when men come to sewing hen it will be time for women to assume masculine habiliments. The aforesaid habiliments, thatis a nice sound- ing word for them, are being advocated by the sanitary women. The sanitary woman is abroad and over the f of the earth. No place is #acred to her, and no human being is free from her. She tests the air we breathe, the clothes we wear, the dinners we eat, the friends we have, and she objects to all. She says the air is full of germs; she says our clothes are not proper from a heaith standpoint; she says our dinners don’t furnish us with the right kind of globules, and she says our friends are Lot magnet- ically adapted to us. I hate the sanitary woman. Give me six safety-pins and I can pin up my frock so thaton the rainiest day the skirts will not get wet, and there will be no need for the assumption of the habiliments. Itis just possible that I am ultra-conservative; but I am quite willing to live as my grandmothers did—without sanitary blessings. I like the days of zood food, good times, zood clothes and good friends; those days when if you had a pain you zot either calomel or castor oil; if you had mysterious lumps in you you died, but you were not cut to death. And by the by, it is a funny thing, but until the doctors knew how to do this slicing there seemed to be nothing to slice. If you happen to be in the house with a sanitary woman you feel that you would like to use some of the language so highly appreciated by the late Mrs. Carlyle. On the arrival of "the sanitary woman in your home, she carefully inspects the plumbing and tells you that itis all wrong. Then she gives her opinion of the food you offer her, unless you have been wise enough to lay in a stock of stewed prunes, health bread and that dreadful slop they call “shells,”” and which tastes like a mixture of dish water and ashes boiled together. Soon aiter her arrival she tries to convince you that vouare not dressed rightand that she is. Nine times out of ten her sanitary underwear is enough to irighten a fireman, but she boldly displaysit, and calls you a frivolous female because you lean to ruffies and laces. ‘Why does this type of woman always say “male” and “female’’ instead of man and woman? She makes me feel as if I were some sort of a four-legg d animal, and a very ordinary kind of a one at that. She is possessed of an impudence that exceeds any I have ever encountered, and she has no ‘more hesitancy in asking the most personal questions than an ordi- nary woman would in saying ‘good morning.” She seems to gloat over dis- eases, physical ones; and, somehow, the sanitary woman, in time, drifts a little wrong mentally. It seems as if constant hunting for microbes in the pipes makes her yearn for human microbes, ana de- velops in Ler queer and unconventional ideas, especially about men. Just think over the sanitary women you have met and see if I am not right. An ideal episode is the meeting of the sanitary woman and the Chinaman. She looks excited, he looks placid. She tries to explain the ad- vantage of healthful living, and_he smiles and smiles, and listens and still smokes opium and has friends who are probably lepers. There is one thing I have always liked about the Chinaman. When he is glad to see you he shakes hands with himself. Not metaphorically, but realty. Some eople’s hands are so unpleasant. There is the cold, clammy hand, that gives you a chill and makes vou feel that you have an enemy instead of a friend. There is the round, over-fat hand, that suggests a rubber ball and convinces you that among your friends is a fool; and then there is the long, thin, bony hand, that sets you to wondering as to whether it is attached to a villain or a skeleton. The Chinese way is the best. But so many of their ways are funny. Their men wear shirts and their women wear trous- ers. The dressmakers are men, the women are messenger-boys. Books are read backward and foot notes are at the top of the page. The language they speak isn’t written, and the language they write isn’t spoken. When they put on mourn- ing they wear white, and bridesmaids, who are not maids, but old married women, wear black. Their last name comes first, and when you dine with a Chinese gentle- man you eat candy first and fish and soup last. ~ Altogetner their modes_are a little peculiar, still they are fascinating. To return to the sanitary woman. She is seldom popular with men, who as a gen- eral thing like frivolous women, unless they are cranks, and then, of course, they are not men. Eve ‘‘frivuled.”” there can be no doubt that Lilith did, and I feel sure that all the women who have madeé history, by making trouble, were also frivolous. But they were charming. ‘There is nothing charming in having the air dissected and the water analyzed dur- ing one's dinner. One doesn’t want the advantages of graham bread and the in- toxicating qualities of oatmeal the theme for breakfast, nor is it quite pleasant to listen to a discourse on the value of wool next the skin and the advantage of going without corsets during luncheon. Imagine, if you can, such a creature in love! Imagine the absolute discussion of what one ate, drank and wore as partof the love affair! It is past imagination. All women at some time in their lives can be imagined in a love affair, consequently it is fair to conclude that the sanitary person is not a woman, but the result of a higher civiliza- tion. From all such let us pray to be de- livered. You will join in the prayer, so will your neighbor, and “amen!”’ will be said to it with the utmost fervor b_vB AB. . A VANISHED IDEA. Woman's Revelt Against Worn-Out Ideals of the Age of Chivalry. Professor Hialmar Hjorth Boyesen in the Novem- ber Forum. It is customary to comprehend under the term ‘‘chivalry” that radical change of sentiment which about the time of the Crusades, or a little earlier, began to revo- lutionize the social position of woman. The frank and unsentimental comradeship of pagan antiquity was superseded by an exaggerated, mawkish and artificial hom- age which implied a lessened respect under the mask of a heightened one. Only two feminine virtues came.to be re- garded as important, viz.: chastity -and piety, and as f‘::r as the Germans are con- cerned there is no disguising the fact that beyond this point they have neversince adyanced. The Emperor William II (if he has not been misquoted) is, to be sure, liberal enough to recognize & third virtue, viz.: skill 1n cooging. Woman’s sphere, he said recently, is bounded by the three K’s—Kirche, Kuche, Kinderstube (church, kitchen, nursery). It did not trouble him to consider how untrue he was to the best | German _tradition in miaking this foolish declaration. What kind of women can you expect to foster in the mingled fumes of nursery, church and kitchen? Simple, devout creatures, no doubt— pious, higher domestics, who will bear children meekly and be profoundly at th servite of their Jordsand masters. Itwould be the wildest folly to expeet any fréeand noble flowering of a soul thus narrowly circomseribed, and it is small blame to the victims of such a system if they fail to exhibit the qualities which we have for 700 years been at pains to suppress in them. It iS against the worn-out ideals of the age of chivalry that the women are now beginning to re- volt: and although I am esthetically shocked at their rebellion, my in- telligence justifies and approves it. Let them reconquer the right to be physician surgeons, priestesses, and, if they like, prophetesses, all of which they were dur- ing pagan times. Let them emerge from their historical swaddling-clothes and move their limbs and their souls with nappy freedom and grace. Iam aware, of course, that to a limited extent they have already reconquered - these ancient privi- leges, but the few daring pioneers enjoy but a chary recognition on' ths part of so- ciety at large, and for this very reason they have been apt to develop their pugnacity at the expense of their charm. .Such would not be the case if they felt them- selves to be normal and natural phenomena as their colleagues of the masculine gender. TS gty DO THEY MARRY? The Career of College Women After Gradua- tion—What Vassar Girls Are Doing. The first question everybody is im- patient to ask 1s, “Do college women marry?”’ Before [ bring forth the facts, let me tell the story of the young man to whom an eccentric uncle bequeathed a fortune on condition that he lived and died a bachelor, says Miss Frances M. Abbott in the November Forum. As it could not be determined until after the young man was dead whether or not he would fulfill the conditions of the will, the court decreed that the legacy could not be paid. In like manner, as most of the Vassar women are not yet dead, it is im- possible to present other than tentative matrimonial statistics. The record to date is this: Of 1082 alumne 409 have married—a trifle less than 38 per cent of the whole. As the ““Miscellany”” reports marriages every month this percentage will be inaccurate before even another class has been gradu- ated. A truer proportion may be found by taking the records of some of the earlier classes. The first class (’67) numbered four members; of these three have mar- ried—75 per cent. The class of 68 had twenty-five members; fifteen of these—or 60 per cent—have annexed another name to that on their college diploma. Of the thirty-four members of ’69 there are twentv-one married, or not quite 62 per| cent. The class of ’70 presents nearly the same record; of the thirty-four members iwenty-two are married. The last of these four classes has just celebrated its quarter- centennial. According to Mr . Charles Francis Adams by the time a man has been twenty-five years out of college he has either failed or won in the battle of life. Assuming that | a woman’s occupation and prospects would be settled by that time, it may be stated that, in the first four classes of | Vassar, sixty-one of the ninety-seven members—or about 63 per cent—have mar- ried; a little less than two-thirds of the whole number. A college woman’s chances of marriage, then, are about two to one; but evep this -will not do as an ab- solute statement; for, as matrimony can be entered upon at a greater age than almost any other profession, it is quite possible that the semi-centennial of these classes may show an _increased percentage in that direction. The average age of students upon graduating from Vassar is 22 years and some months. The late Maria Mitchell used to say: ‘‘Vassar girls marry late, but they marry well.” Let us hope that time may not disprove her observations. Many and varied are the other oceupa- tions pursued by Vassar women, each with a small individual following. Libra- rianship has recently been elevated to the dignity of a profession, and six graduates have adopted it. There are five artists and five farmers. Included in_the latter list is Mrs. Frances Fisher-Wood ('74), known in several other ways, who is the proprietor of the Kingwood herd of Jer- seys and manufacturer of a choice brand of sterilized milk for the special feeding of infants. There are four chemists, two of whom deserve further mention. Mrs. Swallow-Richards (’70), besides her ad- vanced scientific investigations, has done practical work which deserves the grati- tude of every housekeeper. Her pamphlets on “Home Sanitation,”” “The Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning,” etc., have been widely circulated. Mrs. Richards is also the founder of that famous pioneer insti- tution, the New England Kitchen of Boston. Miss Welt (°91) has distinguished herself in the universitics of Geneva and Paris, and is said to be the only woman chemist in thelattercity. Threegraduates have be- MY NEW FACE. NOT REALLY NEW, BUT IT LOOKS SO. 6 Days’ Free Treatment of Electro Steam Massage GIVEN BY Ie2ae s, Nettio Harrison THIS WEEK. Restores the Faco to Its Youthful Freshness, and Nothing Remains but to Keep It So ——BY THE USE OF—— Lola Montez Creme Price, 75 cts. LADIES at a distance can have the same advantage of these free treatments by sending 10 cents in stamps for a sample of my Lola Montez Creme and my new Tlustrated Book on Beauty. '1 MRS‘HARBRISON:REMOVES {#SUPERFLUOUS HAIR- BY:THE ELECTRICINEEDLE GUARARANTED: PERMANENTLY: MRS. NETTIE HARE(SON, BEAUTY DOCTOR, 40 and 42 Geary Street, San Francisco. 9, Wl B B¢ The most certain and safe Pain Remedy. In water cures Summer Complaints, Diarrhcen, Heart- ‘arp, Sour Siomach, Flatulence, Colic, Nauseas cote mission siottary 16 China. . In this connection may be.mentionied two other women of iuflu- ence inforeignlands. Stematz Yamakawa (’82)'was the first Japanese girl to graduate from -an American college. = As the wife of Iwao. Oyama, ‘the Japanese Minister of ‘War; 'she has had much to do.with the progress.of ‘her native land. Miss Emma W. “Comfort (’89), formerly of New York City, is ‘the wife of Crookshank Pasha of Ezypt.- - Three graduates have devoted themselves to the most modern - forms of philanthropic work. Two are at the head of college settlements—Miss K. B. Davis (’92) in Philadelphia, and Miss 8. G. Ches- ter (*88) among the motuntain. whites of North Carolina. Miss Susan F. Swift (’83), one of the most brilliant of Vassar women, is a major in the Salvation Army .in London—the only. American woman to hold such a position, ' There -are ‘three astronomers. Professor Mary W. Whitney (’68) is Maria Mitchell’s successor -at Vassar. Before taking that chair she had studied much in this country and - abroad, and had been connected with the Harvard Observatory. Miss Hannah F. Mace ('90) is_assistant to Professor Newcomb in_the United States Naval Observatory at Washington. Three raduates have acted aseditorial assistarits in the making and revision of dictionaries. Their work has been on the Century, the Standard and the International diction- ari NEW TO-DAY. HARRIET HUBBARD AYER'S Recamier Toilet Preparations JULIE RECAMIER. THE ORIGINAL OF THIS: PICTURE REe TAINED HER EXQUISITE COMPLEX« ION THROUGH THE USE OF RE- CAMIER CREAM UNTIL HER DEATH AT EIGHTY. 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