The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 28, 1895, Page 16

ik THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 28, 1895. 15 We all have read and heard a great deal about the feelings of jealousy entertained toward our girls in English circles, and I can assure you the French are quite as de- | sirous of having our belles stay at home, so when the Marchioness of Dufferin, wife of the British Minister in Paris, announced that at the annual reception givenat the| ed in receiv- embassy she would be ing exclusively by women of American birth who had intermarried with 1}19 Eng- lish aristocracy, you can imagine the amount of comment snch an unusual pro- g created, for the crown of the Brit- ish empire was represented on the female Americans. To re on the qui vive to r representatives were e remarks goes without s correspondent writes never did the social tact and quick power of suiting themselves to customs and manners different from those in which they b up shine more re- < well-bred and digni- ch our fair compatriots hioness in her oner- and this writer beyond unfavo ng, and one Pa ailing her- ncy of her 1sins to lend ec ant functions of the em- , namely, to outdo all Speaking of Paris i some of their latest bathing cos- Well we may talk aboat “un- ¥’ bicycle costumes, but the worst are highly proper when compared atest Parisian marine confection. gns and delicacy of the materials i are matters of wonderment to One bathing dress is de- of pale blue washing silk, f a blouse, and barely The blouse the neck, silk, from in depth, and ws of narrow dark- It is belted around the ple sash and has sleeves trimmed to match the cordion pleated, adorned d. The trousers are and come just above the arer’s head is covered with », having a_bow tied called “pig’s I for- ink of this get-up. vimmers here is a a woman, who wears an dress, consisting of a blouse i'a full skirt reaching nd blouse are raid, and black alpacs er severely outlines the : prettiest bathing dress season_is composed re. This is a new alpacs, in_ which no rtes, and is described > and fresh-looking. nventor Hammerstein will ry out hisidea of opening his theater in York with a barefoot ballet? The odious. I presume it will be called Trilbyism, if I may coin the word. I wonder if Dainty gowns of muslin, lace, foulard and everything imparting an air of fresh- simplicity and youthfulness are more before, the craze for ng as the summer ad- cently worn at Del a charming woman was of foulard covered with loose dark violets far apart. v gored and 1 lace. The bodice of ng draped with cream- Y rred epaulettes which fitted r the wide foulard elbow sleeves. The collarband and sleeve rosettes were of violet silk. The new arrangement called the “bib front”’ is in high favor and becomes pret- rettier, and the blouse front , although every one nly those who can er have a par- however, when any fashion neral it cannot last long with- modifications. and t a contrast after chatting about s and all its kin to hear, almost 1n e breath, that cloth of gold is the troduction for bodices. One beauti- satin dress lately designed hasa wathed bodice of this exquisite gold and the sleeves are frill upon frill ) k chiffon. The shoulder-straps are a vivid green, as is also the ribbon round the waist. mg In striking contrast to this gown is a description of a waist which may be of use | to a larger number of readers; it wasmade by a young woman _after a French model. Two and a half yards of striped lawn, pale rose and light green, were used for the corsage. On one side, all along its length, were five rows of shirring which, when drawn together, formed the yoke. You see-there were no seams_in this, and the stripes ran horizontally. When the threads were drawn up the yoke was fitted and adjusted, and then a” horizontal slit was ut, through which the arms passed; later « was cut_out, when the material had been drawn in piace and the felt adjusted. Sometimes a seam is necessary under the arms. The sleeves were leg-of-mutton in style, having the material cut on the cross. When completed the waist was trimmed with pale-green ribbon straps over the shoulders, these ending, both back and front, with rosettes of the same shade, having pink centers; a folded belt of the satin fastened with a similar rosette, quite a large one, on the left ssde. A collar of the ribbon tied in one of the large bows now so fashionable completed an unusually pretty waist. From this little bodice many have been made up in white dotted swiss and organdies, as any one can carry out so simple anidea. The shirringis kept in place by sewing one or two rows of bol bin on the wrong side. Hats ot mousseline de soie, or lace, are very popular. One much admired is of dead white mousseline de soie, which is artistically handled so as to form wings, and a loose twist of it looks like a tin white-crested wave. Exquisite pinkisg polrpies nestle in the billowy whiteness. A very beautiful chapeau is “a Lam- belle,” one of coarse, corn-hued straw, which has a full box-plaiting of Valen- ciennes around the crown. This is held in lace with bronzed scarabzus. - On the eft side is a high over, curling white sigrette. Some new yachting hats are too sweet for anything. I refer to the latest made of linen—white, black-colored, which are shaped into sailor form by quilting. The hat is supreme at present, but for those who will have a bonnet I must de- scribe a remarkably fetching one: The ans recalls to my | de soie, tapering to the | ~) @ 14 | center of the bonnet is composed of lisse { and sequins, which form pointed oyer the hair behind; the lisse and sequin wings | stand out well on either side; there are | pleated lisse rosettes in front and a cluster | of pansies stand out from the back. This | nnique and most becoming bonnet may be | worn with or without strings, which re- | minds me that the handsome widow on | California_street, near Octavia, wears a | bonnet this summer. It suits her admir- | ably. Altogether, she is one of the best | dressed women in the City, as her clothes | fit and hang well, and in addition she has an air and style which arrest the attention. A rumor is afloat that two Eastern ladies of society have been seen in narrow skirts | and small sleeves, but although we cannot exrect to wear much longer our lovely balloon and leg-of-mutton arm-covers, I do not imagine that we will consent to any sudden change. I saw not a few familiar faces at a big | Post-street store last week when the silk | sale was in progress, and 1, knowing that brocades are to be extensively used during the +fall and winter, was more than sur- prised to see beautiful fabrics selling for one-fifth their real value. Good buyers will take advantage of such sales. Fancy | a lovely dark-blue satin brocaded with | shaded autumn leaves sold for a dollar a | | yard. Really sach an absurd figure. I| only wish I owned it now, for it would | have made a gorgeous cloak a la domino | | for evening wear. Any one can dress on a small sum yearly who always has the | ready money'in hand so as to take advan- | tage of such opportunities, for those who | had to turn their backs on_the silks will, | many of them, have to pay later twice the | money for inferior articles. | Apropos of long cloaks the cloak just | made for the Princess Helene in London is a beauty, being comvposed of black velvet, | lined and faced with white fox. The | collar is huge and very handsome. Itis | called a “Russian’ cloak. | An opera-cloak of gray brocaded crepe. lined with rose-pink satin, will ‘shortly be worn here. It has a deliciously pretty hood, around which is frilled rosy gray | chiffon; this also edges the pretty, short cape, which takes the place of sleeves. | | Wide rose-colored satin ribbons tie at the throat. | - Our dressmakers delight in making such garments during the dull season, and an- | other is being made which will accompany | its owner to Europe this fall. It will be | gomposed of an exquisite India shawl, but I will tell you more about it later on, when | it has been completed. Embroideries in gold are to play an im- | portant part this coming season, especiall mkcombmuuon with black satin and blac silk. In the near future we will see many jackets with short basques. One has been designed for a stylish matron, and oh! it any of you possess some old-fashioned | flowered gauze, look for it at once. It is the rage in Paris, made over silk. They must be of the most delicate and etheréal tints. The hand-painted silk gowns con- tinue to be the ‘‘grand chic,” and a fair American_bas just appeared in Parisin a gown of pineapple batiste over white taf- fetas, which was painted with quaint gar- lands of buttercups and wild grasses. The bodice was covered {rom the throat to { waist with butter-colored . Valenciennes (lace frills. The handkerchief composed | entirely of lace is shown, but there are | few purchasers. ouchoirs are now | marked with entwined letters, although the monogram is preferred by some. When separate letters are used they must be very | small. There is a tendency among even the best laundrymen to bring home our hand- kerchiefs in a limp state, and if we remonstrate they next time are returned | as stiff as pasteboara, but I have found that a judicious amount .of argument usually produces the desired result, for: either ex- treme 1s quite as severely criticized by “those who know it all” as an out of date style of shoe would be, and although shoe- dealers continue to assure us that the toothpick shoes are the only style in vogue, many who make a careful study of their best points have never patronized this style, as it certainly draws attention | to a-long foot, and worst of all, adds about | an inch to it. Many women here who walk | considerably complain of sensitive feet, | and the reason is that most of them will | not wear sensible walking shoes.' The | light, thin sole of the house shoe is not | meant for long walks, as it does not offer | sufficient protection to the soles of the feet from the ronghness of the ground. Excellent shoes are to be found in San | Francisco, but it is a matter of surprise to | me that more do not own their lasts and have their shoes made to order, for after | the first expense, involving a few extra | dollars, no one would grudge the small | difference in cost when the comfort and | well-being of their feet are considered, and | proper fitting shoes will wear much longer | than those which half fit, and, remember, | a shoe which does not properly hold the | heel is sure to cause trouble. An ex- { Eresldent of the Century Club in this City as a foot which is so beautifully shaped that it was used by one of our most talented women artists here as a model of a ‘per- | fect foot.”” T do not think it has ever been disfigured with a toothpick horror. Speaking of ready-made thingsa French woman, as I have previously remarked, would as soon think of flying as of wear- ing ready-made corsets, for we can readily comprehend how many diseases may be caused by injudicious compression of the body in certain directions. For instance there is no doubt that many cases of can- cer are directly traceable to an old idea that the bosoms should be pushed up, which, of course, meant a very consider- able amount of pressure on the most sensi- tive glands. The pressing of the floating ribs into internal organs is a frequent cause of disease. Mind, I am not an ad- mirer of the uncorseted woman, for there is no possible reason, except in a few special cases, why we should not wear this article of apparel without any deleterious results if we are careful in having proper care taken by the makers. It has been decided East and in Europe that metallic corsets are to be worn in fu- ture during the heated term, and metallic corsets are made of metallized tulle, ver; pliable, either silvered, gilded or steeled, and the result is a delightfully cool and daintily pretty corset, for they are like lacework, and yet quite strong enough to support the ‘‘most generous of figures.’” Metallized Valenciennes lace, run with baby ribbon, trims them. Now that our bodices are all bloused, belts are in great demand, which means that buckles are worthy of much consid- eration. They are shown in- gold, silver, nickel, aluminum, iron. brass. in composi- | entwine: tion metal and in mother-of-pearl, and tiny buckles of jet, rhinestones and col- ored stones adorn the hats, while only our house slippers now can be beautified with the buckles of gold or silver or the old paste heirlooms, for ties are now the fashionable and only shoes worn en grande toilette. But to return to our buckles. Comparatively few indulge in gold ones, and the loveliest I have seen are in the new semi-oxidized repousse sil- ver, composed of cherub’s heads and wings with roses. Avoid designs that look like miniature doors, gates or nail- heads if you cannot afford one in silver, which are beautiful in design. Look at those in mother-of-pearl, if you want one | for alight gown ; they are very fashionable; but if in mourning those in cut jet are andsome. Designs in aiuminum are ad- vocated for seaside wear as they will not tarnish. I consider an aluminum sauce- [ Ean excellent, but excuse me from wearing uckles of this metal. A young woman was crossing the bay a few daysagoin a very good black serge dress, which had one of the new style sailor collars in white serge, with two rows of black braid. Her gloves were of white chamois and her sailor hat and veil white also, but the effect was entirely spoiled be- cause she wore a brown leather belt. Of course she should either have had one of black leather, or better far one of white kid or chamois. Attention to such appar- ently insignificant details insures the suc- cess of everything appertaining to dress and this pretty young woman should have known better. On the same boat I sat near the most re- tiring gentle bit of a woman, whose hat gave her the most ludicrous expression, simply becanse her milliner had placed next her face a stiff wreath of forget-me- nots. Tt is 2ll very fine to have flowers nestling against our hair, but not against our foreheads, and one of our fashionable the morning, and thin silken curtains of vale blue were fastened back with a repre- sentation of the morning star. The walls were of sea pink, ending in a frieze of crescent moon and_stars, the work of an artist, and the ceiling was in pale blue, covered with fleecy clouds and half-veiled stars, and here and there a ray of golden pink sunrise.” % The rug was of a deeper pink than the walls and had an_artistic border of water lilies. At the window were curtains of blue silk matching those over the crib and hung irom silver-plated poles finished with a silver star at each end. The dress- ing-table was lovely, delicate lace being draped over rose silk, while bows of blue and pink looped_up the lace. All this for- tunate baby’s toilette things were of silver or mother-of-pearl, and, as you can imag- ine, no expense was spared in the carrying out of this unique idea; but nothing appeals to me like the wee cradle sur- rounded with fleecy muslin curtains and tiny frills, every stitch the work of a mother's loving fingers. It is e_as{' with a full pocket to purchase beautiful things, and their careful selection is a proof of affection; but there is something quite different about the things into which are stitched many a hope, many a prayer—but, dear me, I am dangerously near a_sermon, so to change the subject. Do you know that several families here own very, very Jlovely laces? The beauti- ful real ~ iace ~wedding veil worn by the dark-eyed beauty in a tableau so recently at San Rafael is an heirloom. This same family possesses some of the most exquisite laces to be found in this country, and many of us have seen and ad- mired the point de Venise which adorns | the truly charming dinner gown of pale pink satin which enhances the fair beauty of the elder daughter. A fair-haired, blue- eyed Baltimorean, who is now away visit- g her home, owns some flounces of real rose point which are most valuable. % A connoisseur in lace says keep your stand that out of that number there have been received about six declinatioms. An arkite remarked to me, ‘“You see if the people on the hills have more iumu than they can accommodate in. their houses. and gardens thereare the vacant lots,” and- then he sighed and said he would have to hurry off and try to hire a float, as his ark could hold thirty, and seyenty would be over. Well, I am going to be there, and San Francisco’s pretty girls will be ably repre- sented and will outshine all the lights, sta- tionary and afloat, I am certain. What do you think, as the French say, is the *dernier cri?” Nome of you can come within a mile of it if you guessed all day, so I wil tell you at once. It is the “dinner ring, 0 called because it is worn only for din- ner display and at full dress ones only, as it has to be offset with much elegance of dress, but in truth it is a barbarous-looking thing, a regular monstrosity, covering the entire joint. Now, probably none of us will indulge in this sort of ‘“‘shield of jewels,” but it is my pleasant duty to give lyou the very latest news appertaining to all such things, and the latest settings for rings are square in form, composed of rhinestones; for in- stance, one has turee diamonds in the cen- ter, the same number of emeralds above and rubies below. This is said to be odd in effect, but the golden circlet holding one or more jewelsis so graceful thatit will always rival other styles in beauty. The rage is for small diamond pins which are horizontally fastened and are not more than an inch and a half in length and never over half an inch wide. In these one sees no new designs, sword and hymen torches being the favorites. These are preferred gteatly to the “stick ins,” which we all lost by the dozen, as hey never would stay in place. “The set’’ no longer would be seen car- rying lorgnons unless wrought in gold when ‘en toilette, and frequently these are also jeweied, inlaid with enamels, marvel- ously designed, and one that excites general admiration for it is in white enamel, with gold-wrought borderings, and is studded with dear little diamond butterflies. Let me return to more practical subjects. The bride of Wednesday last had a wonder- ful number of beautiful gifts, as she is rich in relatives and friends. Among her presents was an exquisite fichu of rare old lace, from a charming widow. Then there was a great bowl of cut glass, gleam- ing like a monster diamond when the sun fell on it, and a silver bowl and dainty bits of Dresden and Royal Worcester china. Fans in lace and satin, silver in all forms, shapes and designs, from the ve:y useful and practical forks to the unique fittings for her writing desk. Of course the bride looked charming in her snowy satin, and the maid of honor, her first cousin, is one FASHIONS IN PARIS— NEVW DRESSES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON. {From the London Graphic, July 13.] girls does not seem to realize that pale shades of buff and yellow are not becoming | to women with a high color. Many of our well-known women are de- voted to the bicycle, and nota few ride remarkably well, notably the wife of one of our prominent railroad men. She is frequently seen on her wheel in San Mateo this summer. Some, however, are de- cidedly ungraceful, and the reason is, ac- con_hnghto the best authority, the tendency to lift the knees with a pumving motion, and the great secret of easy riding fora woman lies in the proper angle of the seat post. It should be nearly perpendicular, the position of the saddle with relation to the pedals. The correct adjustment should bring the rider almost directly over her work, so as to avoid reaching and pushing out in front. The greatest evil which is to be feared from the bicycle craze is that women will overdo it and permanently in- jure themselves. If I am not much mistaken our leading jewelers are shortly to be busy designing corselets, for they are quite the latest style and most'becoming to slender women, not being so heavy looking as the stom- acher, and moreover, the gracefully Eomted curves which encircle breast and 1p add greatly to the shapelinessof the figure. Mile. Mathilde Weisweller, who has just married Baron Henri Rothschild, had an ideal corselet made entirely of dia- monds and jewels. It is described as being ten inches in depth and is composed of a medley of diamond true-lover's knots, interspersed with drops of magnificent pearls. The bottom is finished with a rich looking fringe of large pearls. It is as well to read descriptions of such beautiful things, for there is little likelihood of our seeing many of them. The subject of “Baby Rooms” is quite fashionable at present. One mother has just designed a “Rosebud Room,” saying that whether the expected little oneisa boz or_girl the room will be suitable, as baby will at all events be a rosebud, and so the apartment is tinted rosy pink. A gray carpet strewn with pink roses covers the floor, while pink and white angels across the pinkish ceiling. Baby’s brass crib is draped with gray silk, strewn with beautiful long- stemmed roses, and the little quilt is of white silk, embroidered by grandméther, with quite the most lovely buds you have ever seen. The little dressing-table is draped with the same silk as that over the crib, while an oval glass in a brass frame is surrounded with repousse cheraubs and all the toilet articles are of ivory. The sun peeps through lace curtains lined with .rose-colored silk, and the furniture is up- holstered in gray with roses. No one would object to coming into this cold world were such a dear little room await- 1ng them with angels flying over the ceil- ing and a dado of all the most_ beautiful roses in the world grewing together. “Another tiny mite,” says Harper's Bazar, ‘‘is to spend her infancy ia a room all blue, pink and silver, for her name is Aurora, these delicate colors being seen in the early dawn. The crib was an exact reproduction of the chambered nautilus, glistening with mother-of-pearl. The coverlet wasof a peculiar brilliant pink, such as is seen in the dewy freshness of | Brussels lace to go over pink satin, your Venetian point for purple velvet, your Duchess lace for gray or black satin, silk or crepe. The family of a Southern Senator have some treasures in real lace, but then you have heard about them,I am certain, if you have not enjoyed seeing the fairy-like fabrics. Many others have rare and beau- tiful stores of lace which they prize far “beyond diamonds and many precious stones.’ The almost universal use of the seal in Europe and the East is expatiated upon in Vogue. The writer says: *The idea of a seal and sealing-wax, among other things, is to avoid putting one’s tongue to the en- velope to gum it—an insult to the receiver as much as a nasty practice of the writer.” After such an announcement from so ex- cellent an authority no one can consider heggelf *it” unless every epistle is duly, not only signed, but sealed as well. Much interest has been manifested in an article which appeared on the 15th of last June in THE CALL on the subject of the new society of the “Daughters of Cin- cinnati,” but in reading the lines which stated that ‘“any woman eligible to the new order must be the lineal descendant of an army or navy officer, no matter of what nationality, who fought in the war of Independence,”’ I felt certain there was some mistake, for wh{ the name of “Cincinnati” if these were the only quali- fications, besides being a charming woman holding an assured social position? so I wrote to headquarters for information, and shall quote the reply: “The eligibility consists in being the descendant of any original officer of the ‘Cincinnati,’ the de- scent not being restricted, as itisin the order of the Sons, to the eldest son’s de- scendants, but through any son or daugh- ter of the ancestor.” Iam happy to be abie to reply so con- cisely to the many questions which have been asked relative to the qualificationsy requisite for admission to this new patri- otic and historical organization. Have you seen the little orange-and- crimson buttons during the past week which have adorned the buttonholes of many manly coats, and do you know what they signify? " They mean that the wearers have houses, arks or yachts in Belvedere, and take an active interest in the beautiful Venetian fete which will take place on the 3d of next month. Every one is on tie qui vive, as if half the rumors are to be credited the display will be gorgeous. Thousands ugon thousands of lanterns ) will be used, and there is a boom in candles; but candles and lan- terns will not be alone in their glory, for one ark is to have an electric plant on board and Mr. Pope’s launch the Mascot i to be radiantly illumi- nated with electricity and will lead the long f:ocuusion. every craft of which will be ablaze with light.” First in order will come the launches, then the boats and lastly the skiffs, and from every point of hilly Belvedere red lights will ‘be burned and on each and every arkand yacht afloat colored lights will gleam. About 8000 in- vitations fnu been issued, and I under- | sembly ball. of the handsomest young women here. She cares more for the Fruit and Flower Mission than for the cotillon or an As- A very stylish fascinating belle will be.a bride in September, and she is to have a church wedding I hear from headquarters, an< as she is one of the best dressed girls insocietv I hope to have something to tell you about her trousseau before long, but then she is one of those fortunate ones who would ‘“‘glorify a gunnysack.” One bride is having made a cloudlike gown of the finest, softest cream white silk crepe, which has a rose silk lining. Itis cut so as to show her lovely throat in front and edged with gold and silk spangles. The long drapery flowing from the shoulders in scarfs is edeed with {frills of lace. In the back ‘here is a yoke formed of the spangles, and from this falls a box pleat which widens until it lieson the floor an artistically cut demi-train. The great sleeves are of the pink silk draped with crepe, with frills innumerable of lace. One of the prettiest and sweetest old ladies here has a real picture gown of the heaviest, richest black eilk, made en }}rincess with a moderately iong train. his dinner gown has two beautiful and costly rthine buckles in the back at the waist line through which are passed wide black satin ribbons which tie in gay little bows toward the sides in front; and the front, it is of ivory-white satin, veiled with black net, henvil{ embroidered with jet. Small but excellent rhinestone buttons beautify it, and a low, pointed collar of the embroidered jet is edged with creamy lace. At the Baldwin this week the new woman eten must have enjoyed the de- licious comedy of ~The Amazons.” The Marchioness of Cutla?ordnn was a stylish figure in her well-cut bluish-gray own with its black vest. The costume gore the stamp of “the latest.” Her black bonnet of tulleand jet had just the right touch of the gray shade and completed the harmonious whole; and again when we see her in the last act in a toilet of black silk with small brocaded sprigs, with along sort of redingote, baving a black vest of jet-embroidered net and a wide fichu- like ruffle of the same around her shoulders, we scarcely can say which gown leases us best. A dear little bonnet of Jet is most becoming to her, and I am an- ticipating Mrs. Walcot’s gowns in “An Ideal Husband” next week, and hove to see more of her. Isabel Irving first appears after her Lon- don adventure in a smart fawn-colored tailor-made sujt, consisting of a plain full skirt and rather long coat, while the vest is of a contrasting shade of fawn, embroid- ered with narrow braiding. Her skirt, collar and tie are beyond criticism. A jaunty hat completed an excellent cos tume, and, as a boy in green velveteen, she is quite as bewitching as when attired in her delicate art-colored ‘“‘gym’’ dress, but when appareled in her dinner gown she is a delightful vision. The skirt is of heav. ivory-white moire silk, beautitully {ma’, and’ the bodice is daintily vei n lace and chiffon. Wilhelmina, from first to last, looks sweetly pretty, whether in her ¥ corduroy jacket, in” her athletic cos- e, or in the lovely brocaded blue satin creation worn in the closing act. And, Lady Tommy, where did you have that dear little brown tweed jacket made? It fits you to perfection, but. your ngnkhh wn_ suited you also, and dou id not look in the least like a boy in your very pretty pink flowered silk with just a touch of black velvet. .Indeed, you all were so charming when arrayed in conventional evening gowns that I, for one, felt glad that you were instructed “never again to appear without skirts.” ‘‘Sergeant” [Shuter's garments cannot be described as things of beauty, but then they were not intended to be. They are describable by the word ‘‘appropriate.” At the Columbia Theater the Jilt wore a pretty gray gown in the first act. The full plain skirt was well hung and the odd tea jacket, laid in box pleats, opening over an oriental crimson figured waist, slightly bloused, was ‘excellent and the touch of brightness emphasized the dark- ness of very velvety brown eyes. Again, the evening dtess of creamy crepey texture was completed with just the right touch of color by the poppies, and in the last act the pretty waist of black net over amber satin went well with the skirt of black brocaded satin. In- deed Miss Grey showed good taste in the selection of her toilettes; and the same may be said about the heiress, who looked wellin the dark brown habit, and very fetching in her dinner dress of pink, the skirt having a light creamy ground covered with pink blossoms, and the waist was well draped with chiffon, and the green ribbons gave a Frenchy touch to the whole. Mrs. Welter, the widow, was as neat as a pin, and is again to be congratulated on the suitability of her costumes. Her daughter, Phyllis, was always sweet and prettily garbed. To conclude, when purchasing material for your evening gowns purchase an extra prece if you would have your costume complete. That now means you must have your fans match your gowns, and as they are going to be large make due allowances. At a very swell garden party across the pond lately the Princess of Wales and sey- eral leaders of fashion appeared in gowns of the loveliest most silky of crepons and silk and wool and silk and camel’s hair are to be in much demand this winter. MARCELLA. S g FASHIONS FOR MEN. ‘White waistcoats are much worn in New York and in England at present during the day, the white waistcoats for day and even- ing being totally different garments. The day waistcoat is made double or single breasted. The single is the most stylish, and is comparatively high-buttoned in the same V shape as the ordinary cloth waist- coats. The waistcoat for evening wear is single or double breasted, cut U shape very low like the cloth evening waistcoat. The morning white waistcoat can be worn with morning or cutaway coat, and also with frock coats. Lounge sunits should be of Scotch or homespun suitings,-the kind known as hopsack. The coats are shorter than last year and the trousers have no crease to them and are slightly wider. Some English lounge coats are seen bound with a heavy braid of a darker shade, but this style has not taken with those who avoid outre fashions, and this season we show a tendency to make as few changes as possible in clothing, for we rise and put on our mufti. and it serves us until dinner time whether we indulge in golf, take a spin on the wheel or go driving. Now we cling to our dinner jackets, many having quite a collection of these most comfortable coats. Some are shown in New York faced with red, which iives them rather the air of smoking jackets, but they have quite an artistic air about them. The %uy frock coat and trousers, for- mérly the§correct things for Ascot and Goodwood, have vanished, and this year only two men were seen at Ascot wearing white hats, which used to be de rigueur. Some one recently laughingly alluded. to the absurd report that %Vales would visit America shortly and said, “The Prince cannot leave England, for he has to lay cornerstones and set the fashions over there.”” But it would scarcely seem as though 'his Highness still is leading in this respect, for although he appeared this ar at Ascot in the usual gray suit and at his example found no followers. Mr. Kendal is said to be the best dressed actor on the English stage and Mr. Drew is considered our best, but Her- bert Kelcey does very well indeed. Did you all notice his hat band in the Ama- zons?t Iam glad Drew will be here soon, as he will give us not a few 1deas. East the summer young man is said to be a lovely object, as he indulgesin all allowable colors and hues. Patent leather sdhoes are universally worn with evening ress. Madras ties will be more seen than ever this August, and, by the way, it is most correct to speak of ‘“‘ties’’ You can say cravats, and you might say neckties, but don’t if you wish to_be thought to know “what’s what,”” and don’t talk about ‘‘a Prince Albert,” say ‘“frock coat” instead. I have heard some remarks about scarlet coats for lgelfing. A scarlet sack coat is only worn at a match, if scarlet is the club color, other- wise it is not considered good form. The fashion of wearing morning coats and knickers of Scotch goods is the smartest. Before the Frawley Company gives “One of Our Girls” again, I hope Captain Gregory of the Tenth Hussars will procure a correct uniform. Some men wear shirts with cuffs at- tached, but without collars. C.C. Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tenes and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. Yale’'s Skin Food, $1.50 and $3, at all drug- MM ‘ALE, Health and Beauty 148 State street, Chicago. Beauty Bk SPECIAL SALES THIS WEEK «eOF.... SPECIAL PURCHASES The Benefit of Which We Shall Give to Our Customers. SPECIAIL: IN GLOVES. See prices below. They are the best P Roroh. value ever RIBBONS At less than manufacturers’ eost. SATEEN SKIRTS Made up in the latest styles. Big bargains, every one of them. WASH FABRICS In patterns and at prices never offered befors, Ses Our Vaines and Prices. GLOVES. At $1.25 Palr. 80 dozen LADIES’ 2-CLASP MOCHA OR CASTOR GLOV[ES< for bicyele riding, driving and street wear, in tans and browns, with large patems fasteners, at $1 25 pair. RIBBONS. 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