The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 14, 1895, Page 15

Half the pretty girls are inquiring about | the “Night in Venmice.” They ask me, “What shall we wear?” about a dozen times a week, as I am credited with know- ing all about it, having been in Belvedere last year when the first celebration took place, and 1 can assure you all it was well worth the trip across the bay, for the bril- liant success of the exertions by tne Belve- derians and the Arkites was proclaimed far and wide, and this year everything will be on a larger scale. By this I mean that many more thousands of lanterns will be used, the fireworks will be more numerous, two bands, instead of one, will play until the wee small hours, owners of yachts, arks and launches will all vie with one another in entert: ng the most charm- ing women in California, every one keep- ing open ho , and I have the tide will moon hed s the finishing nd, and girls, k or pique cos- 1, and you can underclothing for the trip home. g maidens, one a other a demi-blond, Belvedere, have con- will both be there on nowy duck, but what- to don on this occasion be ave it splashed with sea ng in and out the E hes one cannot ex- e dress to be appropriate. w a lovely toilette totally accident which befell the widow of a distinguished Fortunately she has the position in the world, and took p with perfect amiability, g of white duck reminds me that 1 that the white chamois \erally worn in the morn- lettes will not wash prop- tell you how to wash n of warm water and horoughly wash out b then wring out every f water and draw them on 1 fresh water,with soap, er this allow them to re- hands until quite if not per- rwise they will shrink and e. t summer gowns, white gloves er and suitable for driving. large, white peasl buttons, ct, 3“5 if worn one size larger for less active purposes will be more ortable and enduring and the reins can be used with greater freedom. Did you all know that the charming gown of pink shaded silk worn recently at San Rafael by the pretty Californian who has returned ufter a long absence on ac- count of legal affarrs was a creation of Doucet’s? and for those who did not see it let me describe it: The skirt was very full, not in the least godeted, but with what is called a simple drawing string around the vaist. Who ever would have expected is of Doucet? The bodice was lovely, slightly bloused front, the most 1 roses edging the low-cut neck. s shaded from cream to rosy pink 1 were quite the most exquisite artificial tiowers worn here for some time. The San Rafael theatricals were enjoy- able even if the gas refused to act properly, for the girls were certainly effective. The Gibson girl was perfection, and the sweet young belle, you know she is one already, although she will notcome out until this winter, was a picture as “The Wife.” The story of the sleeve was good also, and the little brunette looked chic in her dainty white gown with the one crushed sleeve. No one has been more popular this season at Hotel Rafael than the bright wife of the colonel, and she dresses with admirable taste. One fair-haired, blue-eyed matron at the same hotel has a gown of dotted white swiss with about seventy-five yards of ecru 1 1 the ruffies. She wears many taste- vou have some old Irish lace— le, mind you—look for it at ghtway have it put on your gown, for just at present nothing e stylish as a trimming and nota an yet be purchased here, as the de- mand in Kurope cannot be met, for every one is said to have gone mad to obtain it, nd no one dares to return from Europe without having at least one gown trimmed with it if she wishes to be considered at all fashion. One of the gowns which st arrived so adorned I will describe, has created quite a stir among the most critical of the modistes. It hasa su- perb white duchesse skirt, graceful asan inverted convolvulus and quite as un- mmed on the edge. The low-necked e is cut very straight in the back, but ined to a V across the bust. The bodice is covered with a decollete Irish lace bolero with basque ruffles from hip to hip. Blouse front of yellow lisse and from the decolletage, a fall of : Jace now so prized. The elbow sleeves are immense and are of gros grain bro- caded in yellow roses and draped in wings with flounces of Irish point lace on the lower edge falling over t(t‘le elbow. White roses are_tucked into the folds of these wings, and the decolletage on the Iders is finished by epaulettes of them. The lace bolero is belted in with white satin at the ba slipping into seams at the side and fastened on the left with a cluster of white roses The style I mentioned of having a moire with a diamoend buckle to hold the ves in place is rapidly gkrowing in nd :;fpuix of these will make a dainty 1g gift. Speaking of weddings reminds me that the bride whose wedding cards will so soon be out will wear a gown of white satin at the quiet home wedding, her traveling dress being strictly tailor made. The latest fashion bulletins announce that the present skirt, measuring 27 feet in circumference, is not really a wide skirt. M the gods preserve usii we areto be ed to walk around with a bale of expe dress goods draped about us and to emu- late the skirt. The sleeves again threaten to become ludicrous. The Louis XV short jackets are the very latest, and are composed of the loveliest i nd brocades, or in mousseline, black or white figured, lined with brilliant glace silk in any becoming color. The effect when_trimmed with old lace is delightful, and all show the blousette in front, which | jeweled pins hold in place. Our modists, finding that husbands and fathers no longer smile over bills in which twenty and thirty yards of chiffon and mousseline de soie figure, have decided to use Brussels net of the best even if it does cost considerably in the uality, for first place, it will last a lifetime, while chiffon and mousseline de soie cannot be worn more than two or three times, and then the rnzbaiclaims it for its own. One of the handsomest gowns of real French Brussels net in San Francisco is owned by the little woman who is so fond of amateur theatricals. This gown is made empire style, and the net is snowy white, with here and there a silver sequin. The foundation of the dress is the best white glace silk, and the most natural of field daisies trim a model gown—one we all would love to own. A handsome woman here has lately ap- peared in a light fawn-colored crepon dress, which has a blouse front of muslin and butter lace. A black satin_ribbon en- circles the waist and_ties in a flighty little bow ut the back. A black hat with a bit of good old creamy lace and black gloves complete an excellent toilet. Another gown pleases me; it is of a little brown-checked cloth, and it would look very insignificant but for the cleverly ar- ranged trimming of handsome jet over cream white satin. The ornamentation appears in the slightly bloused front and around the neck and sleeves. A tasteful gown has gone lately to Menlo Park of mauve silk shading into fawn. This is combined with a novelty consisting of a figured changeable mousseline de soie, which goes admirable with the silk; the mmxss(sine is covered with artistic little blurred roses of blue pink shade. A friend of mine has one of the very latest lamp shades. It is of plain heavy cream silk, mounted on a delicate gold frame and on the silk_is a most excellent head of Napoleon and the imperial mono- gram. Such shades are the rage in Europe. The small set are to carry this fall and winter the loveliest jeweled chatelaine bags, large enough to hold a handkerchief, scent-bottle and a small number of coins. The clasps of some sparkle with precious stones. As I have heard of not a few weddings which will take place in the near future let me tell you about the very latest wed- ding cake. It was completely concealed by snowy flowers, arranged so lightly that the sugar-icing was not in the least in- jared by their proximity. Besides, the tloral decorations were so placed that they could be lifted off in two or three seconds. This was apparently done by circles of strong wire a little larger than the round of the cake, but quite invisible when the latter was complete for the table. The effect of this arrangement is lovely and I only wonder who will be the first San Francisco bride to have such a cake. I must not forget to add that several of our best dressed women are wearing skirts of alpaca, batiste and pique with plaid waists, which is quite the latest combina- tion in_Paris, and when the waists match the skirts an air of style is given by hav- ing sleeves, or blousettes of plaid silk. One of the best New York houses ordered two of its buyers before they left for Eu- rope not to purchase crepons as naturally it was thought that crepons had had their day, so what was the surprise by the head of the house to learn from one buyer that he would have to purchase crepons, as they were to be still the thing for the coming season, so those owning crepons may rest assured that they will continue in style throughout the winter, although the in- formation comes that the new weaves are remarkably beautiful, being changeable in some cases, in others plaids. So vive le cre- von for the remainder of 1895. Last week I saw a woman who must have misread the announcement that our chapeaux would be walking flower gar- dens and read instead walking éhicken- yards, for on her monstrous hat were several birds or fowls quite unknown to the naturalist, and a collection of feathers picked up at random. Otherwise this per- son was well dressed. But that hat! Well, what possesses some people 1 cannot com- prehend. One of last winter's debutantes has sev- eral fancy silk waists with which she wears odd but stylish linen collars. For in- stance, with a checked brown bloused waist she wears a collar of a sort of sailor shape, with an inch-wide insertion of the same shade as the linen, and this collar is cut into two pretty points on each side in front. The cuffs turn back and are about two and a half inches wide, with narrow insertion. For other waists she has collars of various shapes and sizes, many of which were made by her own dainty fingers. Crossing the bay a few days ago a woman sat beside me with the most disproportion- ately large hands I have ever seen, and they were in ‘‘aggressively yellow’ kid gloves, making them look like great hams. Why do not people so afflicted confine themselves to black kid, so as not to loudly call attention to their misfortunes? The same advice I would give to those who are sensitive _about their feet, always wear black or dark kid shoes and slippers. Asa rule our women have smalP and well- shaped hands and feet, indeed in propor- tion to the number of inhabitants there are an astonishing number of women with feet such as Lord B{ron said showed genera- tions of gentle blood, and our own Bayard Taylor described when he alluded to *‘the archinF foot of Eastern lands.” One of the Colonial dames here has the prettiest little tootsies to be found anywhere. All her friends, and they are numerous, are regretting the absence of the little beauty who has been so much of a belle at San Rafael lately. No woman I know of understands better how to dress than she does, for whether in her simple gown of blue denim with its touch of white about the double-breasted Eton jacket or ina rich dinner toilet, she is always a picture one loves to look at. May she soon return from her visit to her Eastern home. MARCELLA, —_— FASHIONS FOB MEN. Speaking of studs for evening wear, small gold ones are considered very smart; otherwise white enamel or pearl, but diamonds never. For mourning, black enamel buttons have been worn by a few. There are two forms of dress for evening recognized by those who dress correctly. One is the semi-evening dress for informal occasions, consisting of a Tuxedo or Cirves jacket with black trousers. The other is the formal evening dress with the swallow- tail coat, which should be of fine, soft vicuna, smooth, with a fine twill, or of fine corkscrew. The collar is deep, the lapels wide. The facing is of silk, coming to THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 14, 1895. within an inch of the lapels themselves. The collar is notched. The trousers are full, the dimensions being eighteen and a bhalf inches at the knee and sixteen and a half inches at- the bottom, that is, if you are going to have them cut as the swellest New York tailor cuts them. They are moderately wide at the hips and fall in as straight lines as possible to the ankle, be- ing well curved over the instep, and have little spring. The following London rule has been adopted everywhere concerning the trous- ers. They must show a very faint crease— not one that looks asthough creased by the tailor, but one that seems the natural result of folding. Many young men abroad noted for al- ways being correctly attired and leaders of fashion have adopted cloth collars instead of velvet ones for evening couis. The waistcoats when black are single- breasted with three buttons and are al- most oval in shape. In white they may be either single or double breasted. With evening coats white waistcoats are almost universally worn, but are never seen with Tuxedo or dress jackets. Bingle-breasted waistcoats are most popular with frock coats, and are of fancy stripped or checked flannel. These are worn when hunting or riding. The Inverness cape coat and top hat are worn with the evening suit. Black satin ties are seen with dress jackets and white ones with evening coats. The lawn ties are not so popular as those of linen, because linen does not rum- ple and can be more easily tied. Biack silk ties are proper with the Tuxedo when 1 mourning. Golfers are purchasing ties of tartans and plaids, but a bow of colored ribbon or silk is more npgropriate for a lounge suit, with colored shirt, than the Ascot four-in-hand. The club tie, with wide ends tied in a careless bow, is popular, especially in blue foulard with reg figures—not dots, mind you. The Toreaaor, which is a narrow four-in-hand with a long knot, is in excel- lent taste, and the narrow four-in-hand is seen in all colors. Figured satin will be in vogue all summer. ’fhe plain white cotton cape glove is an innoyation which reached New York from London a few weeks ago. They promise to be in great demand for wear with after- noon dress. For evening wear white kids with white stitching are correct. For driving and other sports smooth heavy kid gloves in black and tan are shown. If you wear spats they should be chosen | | will newly engrait upon with regard to the costume and must be either gray, drab or black. The latest hose shown are in fancy red and brown lisle thread and silk. They are for morning and afternoon use; for even- ing always black silk. Men wear too much jewelry out here. The watch should be carried on a chain in inside trousers pocket; watch chains, seals and charms of all kinds are vulgar. Sleeve- buttons of dull or polished gold with monogram are correct for general use and white enamel for the evening. Pipes mounted in silver are monstrous, and sticks become absurdities when ‘encir- cled with silver snakes. Silver handles are almost as bad. The correct stick is the shepherd’s crook of dark plain wood, with a single silver band on the plain stick of | polished wood with round silver top, and monogram is good form for older men. A young Englishman here carries a stick with a good-sized crook, on the end of which his initials are 1nlaid in the wood. This is in excellent taste. This is not the umbrella season, but when it is avoid those having handles dis- figured withsilver. Carry your sticks handle upward. The young Californian who quite re- cently married the pretty daughter of a general, and the son of the late stock- broker, who 80 soon will become a bene- dict, both look well in tweed and know what is what. The man who knows it all remarked re- cently on his return from San Rafael that the men looked pretty well groomed as a whole, “don’t you know,” but _he saw no especial swell over there. This remark holds good concerning most of our men at the seaside resorts. % time, caring little apparently about their get-up. But over in Sausalito and Belve- dere there are some who on occasions are veritable ‘“ocean swells” in their white flannels or white duck. Three men who are always together in Belvedere are re- marked for their spotless attire, just as hey go in for a good | three others, who by the way are the best- natured to be found anywhere, are noted for their absolutely hideous sweaters, all three exactly alike. I presume there is some joke attached to them. How awfuliy some men have their hair cut. Why, it is more than a hair cut; it amounts almost to a shave, when the man who has things done correctly will never have his hair more than trimmed. There are some excellent pajamas being shown here in a Kearny-street store for $5. They are of Scotch flannel. C. C. ———— JOGGING THE MEMORY. “There! if I didn't forget all about it!” That’s what a woman says when the recol- lection of the engagement made, the date arranged or the commission to be filled pops into her head when it's too late. If only the pop would come in time to be a warning instead of a rebuke, but it never does unless one is smart enough to ar- range a series of wound-up pops that shall go off at the right time. An almost un- failing way to_jog the memeory to the im- pending duty is to fasten up on the bed- room wall, just where the waking eye will catch it, a big calendar, Erinted on pull-off- day-by-day pages, with space for notes under the date. Have you a call to make Tuesday? On the Monday page write a warning word and then on the Tuesday page write the occasion and necessary de- tm%s‘ This gives a ‘“‘two to make ready and three for to start”’ jog to the recollec- tion. A big sheet of brown paper tacked up_back of the desk with a blue pencil nailed to a long string near by will offer surface upon which one can conspicuously indite such items for the week as must not be forgotten. As each thingis done cross it out, so the undone ones continue to be conspicuous until they are crossed. By the assistance of this scheme you can re- member that your husband’s cousin’s baby has a birthday on Monday, that you must speak about Mrs. Cook’s sore knee when sge calls Tuesday, that you must be out Wednesday because 1t’s the first of the month and bills come in, that you ought to warn *‘hubby’’ not to go to the races Thursday because it is your 5 o'clock tea, and so on, successfully. In desperate cases, when in spite of the jogeing such morning observation of desk and bedroom warnings may give, you are sure you will forget the noonday duty, an heroic measure is to wear your tight shoes. Each twinge and every pang of suffering the mind the responsibility to be met. A less heroic but almost as certain way is to post a letter or postal to yourself reminding of the duty vou fear to forget. 1f you want to remem- %er to take your pepsin at dinner, direct the waiter not to give you a fork, and when you poke about for one and thoughts dis- respectful to the waiter come into your head. *‘pepsin’’ will come too, and there you are. Are you in the habit of getting out of bed and stopping your alarm clock and then getting back to bed and never waking up at all? Try sleeping with your head to the footof the bed. When you try to get up you will either climb into the wall or_else get up the other side of the bed and become so far lost in_hunting for the clock that you will ren]gy wake up. Whatever you do in this direction be warned of the experience of the ingenious man who fitted his alarm clock with a tank so that it would let a stream of water trickle on to his devoted head, and then forgot to fill the tank. A NEW WEAPON OF OOQUETRY. Cultivate your hatbrim, girls; be friende with it; know its every drooping curve and learn the exact projection of its shadow. A girl with a well-trained hatbrim can get three proposals to the other girl's one. Learn to let your eyes look over the edge of the shade the brim throws; the least little droop of the head shadows them altogether, and for the life of him he can’t be sure whether you are looking at him or not, and that makes him hope you are. Or the eyes being in total eclipse back of the bending brim the mouth seems all the more alluring, because there it lies, like a curled roseleaf in a streak of sunshine, all unguarded and to_ be taken if vou will where it smiles, as it were, this side of the fence. When he seems almost at the asking-place what sweeter than to let the shadow come down over the drooving lids, beyond the lashes, across the cheek, round- ing the trembling chin? If a man half started on a proposal can squirm out without finishing it when a hatbrim helps him along like that—well, he's yet to be found. There is more still to a hatbrim. It will LONDON SOCIETY'S NEXT CRAZE. (4s foreseen by Mr. Punch’s Second-sighted Clairvoyant.) It is the summeér of 1896—or possibly '97. that'have hitherto been more characteristic of the masses than the classes. The scene is a road skirting Victoria Park, Bethnal Green, which Society’s leaders have recently discovered and appointed as the rendezvous for the Season, and where it is now the correct thing for all really smart people to indulge, between certain prescribed hours, in sports and pastimes The only permissible mount now is the donkey, which must be ridden close to the tail, and referred to as a ‘“moke.” A crowd of well-turned-out spectators arrives from the West End every morning about 11 to watch the brilliant parade of ‘“Mokes- trians” (as the Society journalist will already have decided to call them.) Some drive slowly up and down on coster-barrows, attended by cockaded and disgusted grooms. About 12 they break up into light luncheon parties; aiter which they play democratic games for half an hour or so, and drive home on drags.—[Repro- duced from an engraving in London Punch.] work the other way. He has asked the question, he waits breathlessl and presently the dimple in the chin fills with sunshine, then comes the sby mouth, and the roses deepen up the cheeks till they get caught in the dark of the lashes, and then when the brim is beyond the blue- lined lids up they lift, and of a sudden the eyes shine out. Do you suppose that when a'man has watched that sort of a sunrise he knows what o’clock it is by the time you really look at him? hon That brim will_do even more. If it is wide and soft it will touch his shoulder as vou walk with him, that is, it will if you droop your head his way a little, ana he won’t know whether you intended it to or not, and between the slnkin%lit gives him in his heart to have it touch him, anyway, and the worry it gives him from wonder- ing if you meant it maybe, he is already laid out for a proposal long before you have done anything else. Some hatbrims are so soft and plume-swept that if he is very nice and seems to deserve some special favor you can lean forward and just let the soft fiuff of it sweep his cheek. You can move away again right off and his heart will shoot up in his throat and slide down his back just as if you had really kissed him and got your hair all mussed. If he should thereon become im- perative you can pretend you didn't mean 10 rind that it was all the hatbrim’s own fault. THE WHITE LIES OF SOOIETY. Indulgence in social fibs grows apace into a habit. The conscience of the average person acquits these little subterfuges of immorality, but the use of them renders social intercourse even morensincere than it need be. Leta woman pause to think, and she will be astonished when she takes to noticing how many of these little fiblets she resorts to, and without which she would do very well. There is that phrase, “Charmed, I'm sure,”’ could anything be more foolish? Why miss the chance to make a hit by substituting for this idioc; an apparently sincere and grave ‘It will give me great pleasure.” The phrase has, at least, the air of meaning something and of being originated for the occasion. Then there is **Quite well, I thank you” gabbled off in unheeding responses to an unheeded question. Try saying it as though it meant “Thank you for caring.” Sometimes the unexpected vitalizin§ of a worn and meaningless phrase on the lip: of the one_just introduced is what arrests the attention and gives an expression of individuality and_sincerity before three sentences have been spoken. Often a serious and sincere reply to a gabbled catch remark will at once set the talk run- ning along linesof interest. Try it! When he says to you, ‘‘Pleasant weather we are having,” perhaps when it’s raining in proof that he wasn’t thinking a bit of what he said, you can return gravely, I like the rain, too,”” this with an air of un- faltering and quite unaffected sincerity. And, behold! the topic of the weather, so threadbare, will be an interesting one, in- asmuch as it starts you to some sort of agreement and exchange of opinions in- stead of empty phrases. The not at home fib is one that is diffi- cult to avoia at all times. It isoften the gentlest way of denying one’s audience, for the disappointed visitor is left the option of believing circumstances and not your unwillingness prevents an interview, but many times a candid excuse sent to a friend would meet the case much better. Let the maid say, “Mrs. S— is so sorry, but she is too ill to see any one to-day and hopes you will call again soon,” or some- thing like that. *‘I beg f’our pardon” is another phrase too really pretty to be spoiled by careless use. Don’t fire it off on every occasion, and when you are really sorry about something say so. “I beg | your pardon” said with moving sincerity is absolutely startling, just because of its usual hackneyed use. Sheis a wise girl who takes to studying phrases and sets herself to give new life to them in her usage. She will find her social career ad- vanced wonderfully, without extraor- dinary wit or beauty to help. MAKING IT NATURALLY OURLY. It's all very well to talk about straight locks being the right thing now, but stick- out-short-ends are no prettier than they ever were. Tight frizzes are not permitted, but loose natural turns are still a graceful finish, and there is just one sure way to accomplish them. Wind the lock from the very end in a flat, close wad. Be sure the very tip of the lock is snugly curved down in the very center of the little mat the turns make. Fold up the mat in a square of tissue paper. Press it, paper and all, at night before you go to bed, and let it stay in the paper all night. In the morning, the paper unfolded, down will tumble the locks, glossy and curved into a loose series of rounds, as differentascan be from the quirk of corners that passes for the usual artificial curl. No matter how *ong or how short the lock, it will come irom this treatment ‘‘natural” and, what is more, it will seem to hold the curl, coming out in a_ pretty loosening of the curve, instead of in sharp angles. All this takes time, though a shorter way and almost as good is to wind the lock over a roil of silk, being sure the tip of the lock curves under snugly. The difference beiween the natural and the coerced curl is all in the curve of the tip. No natural curl ever stops to corkscrew right from the scalp, though a wave or so may show there. So devote all attention to the rounding of the ends. If aniron is used, let it be a good sized, round one and not scorching. Dampen the hair slightly and curl slowly. Slip the lock from the iron and let it stay pinned in a close gathered round for a little while, at any rate till it cools. This holding of the curl till the hair cools makes the curl last much longer. Two rules, then; go slow and look out for the ends. When the necessary locks are curved do up the hair, letting the curves escape in their own natural way. A woman can thus deceive her best friend, and what is more satisfactory ? KEEP THOSE HANDS OUT OF THE DISHPAN. “I shouldn’t mind washing dishes if I didn’t have to get my hands wet,” wails the little housewife, and then the other women all laugh at her. But they shouldn’t, for the trouble can be avoided. For a few cents she can buy a dish mop, a little stick with a brush of closely bound cotton string at the end, or if she prefers, she can make her own by fastening about the end of a little stick—a feather duster handle, for instance—a yard or so of flan- nel cut into a fringe. A few cents more will purchase a little gpen wire box, set on the end of a bandle. This box opens and shuts, and holds bits of soap. If such a convenience cannot be secured, a wee cotton bag full of soap bits and fastened to another stick will do quite as well. For the pots and kettles have a dishcioth made of linked iron rings; this, too, with itsdong handle. An elongated clothespin with a hinge in the top so that the grip of its ends can be regulated, completes the outfit. ‘With such and plenty of hot water there is no need of getting the dainty hands wet with the grease and slop of dishwashing, no énnner how many dishes there may be to do. First shake the soap boxin the pan of water till good suds result, nip the dish with the long clothes pin, apply the dish mop, if necessary, as in case of a cup or pitcher, flirt the soap shaker right into it, then deitly lift it up on the mop and transfer it into into another pan. This second pan can be safely balanced on an oilstove oron a cool part of the kitchen stove, and the rinsing water can thus be kept hot, so no matter how many dishes must be washed the clean ones won’t get cold ‘before there is time to dry them. Leave in the pan the plates and flat dishes that won’t transfer. When enough are finished turn the water off carefully and pour on fresh hot water. ‘When Iou are ready to dry the plates the friendly mop will push an edge above water, and that edge can be grasped with the dish towel. Coming right out of the hot water, the plate dries bright almost 1o before 1t is rubbed. Over the stove there should be a row of towels, all hot, so at the least dampness a change can be made. Pitchers and cups are lifted out of the pan on the mop, allowed to drip a moment and- then wiped—so with glasses—and it is all over in less than no time, and the hands never wet a bit. What about the dish towels? Of course they must be washed out, but clean dishes such as they have wiped don't soil towels much, so if they are dipped into hot water into whicha little more soap has been shaken they can be poked about with the mop stick, put through two or three rinsin§ waters and hung up to drip, when they may be spread to dry without hardly dampening the fingers. THAT MARK ABOUT THE NEOK Is anything more aggravating than the black, gray or brown streak that comes about the neck from the wearing of the high stock collars that have so long been in vogue? . The mark is not only disfigur- ing, but, though it be scrubbed so it can’t be dirt, it looks as if soiled, and adds dis- grace to annoyance. The mark is often the result of bad dye in the facing of the collar, and a half hour of facing all the collars with white silk or even white cotton will be well spent. Sometimes just the constant rubbing of the stiff band scars the neck and constant scrubbing with hard soap only makes the skin seem more sensitive and so the more darkly bruised. Loosen the collars a little and haye them finished at the top with a'soft rollof the goods. Such a finish is always becoming, and often settles the difficulty in a little while. So much for prevention; now for re- moval. If the mark must be taken off, and at short notice, perhaps because a dress cut a little low in the neck is to be worn, then anoint the flesh thoroughl( with warm vaseline. Use a soft linen cloth dipped in the vaseline, applying it as if it were soap, and turning the cloth whenever the ap- plied surface gets soiled. This is very im- portant, or you will only scrub the stain in deeper. Let the neck ‘‘rest” a little while, and then with warm soapsuds and a very soft sponge wash off the grease thoroughly. Rinse with hot water several times and then bathe with cold water till the skin is chilled. This should close the pores and leave the skin dry and smooth. Unless this is accomplished open pores and greasy surface will only promptly attract stain again. When the skin is entirely dry, dust well with a pure powder, or apply a dry bag of oatmeal. Rub off lightly, and when the natural color of the skin 1s resumed, after all, the manipulation, the neck will, in nine cases out of ten, be pretty and white. ‘When you are not quite so muchin a hurry use warm soapsuds and sponge rub- bing, rinse thoroughly and chill with cold water. In stubborn cases a paste of bread dough bound about the throat over night by a linen scarf will leave the skin smooth and pure when washed off with warm water in the morning. Don’t employ rough methods, don’t use ammonia and don’t scrub. Whatever bruises orenlarges the pores of the skin only prolongs the difficulty. " HUSH, GIRLS! Many a young girl is actually fidgety because she thinks to be-a success she must be *‘full of life’” and always ‘‘on the go.” She wants to be' bright and viva- clous—if such is her temperament and her vivaciousness comes spontaneously it is perhaps attractive, though it is very likely to get tiresome—but the high spirits of the average girl is nothing better than frenzied squirming to the tune of hysterical giggles. Nine out of ten girls would be twice as at- tractive if they would set to work to learn to keep still and to learn to obtain the full social value of the ability. When the young man is introduced, why plunge at him with a vollev of phrases? You will make your effect twice as quickly and with much less effort if you just meet his look with steady, ?uiet eyes; then, "as if you found yourself pleased with him, speak in gentle, sincere voice, and next give him a chance. Presumably he requested the in- troduction, and so probably he has some- thing to say. At any rate, he is likely to have if you are serene and quiet instead of regarding him with the aspect of a loaded firecracker that is going to burst in a min- ute with a loud noise. A habit of repose will bring you out of many awkward scrapes, too. Suppose in your progre across the room the unfor- tunate awkward man steps on your gown. She who has perfect command of herself will realize that she is- arrested, and with- out the least display of the fact will be able to pause. Then, perhaps, the poor fellow will step off-the dress as uncon- sciously as he stepped uvon it, and its wearer can go on and no one know. When the man you don’tremember at all plunges into a conversation a habit of repose will enable you to keep an unmoved and quiet demeanor till something he says enables you to_ ‘‘place’”’ him. E;J.‘he girl who is always in a hurry to gabble would betray herself at once. Such a command of quiet is also a never- failing protection against bores. It ena- bles one to preserve an air of kindly atten- tion, while her thoughts, free and untram- meled, roam where she likes. You are able to make yourself an angel to your hostess by being good to the shy or awk- ward man, who is_simply impossible when he is bombarded by the vivacious girl. This can be done right. too, without any distressful expenditure of energy. Examples could be given by the dozen, but these should be enough.” Let a young woman take to cultivating the ability to be quiet and she will promptly appreciate its social value. ] In 1850 the total wealth of this country was $7,136,000,000, about $308 per capita; in 1860 it had risen to $16,160,000,000, or about $514 per head; in 1870 it was $30,069,000,000, or about $780 per head; in 1880 it had risen to $43,642,000,000, or $870 per head; and in 1890 to $62,600,000,000, or $1000 per head. Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tones and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. Yale's Skin Food, ;l.w and $3, at all drug- stores. hnll'fa M. Y ALE.’:loellu: and gnng State street M eaul Qhlis maiied treor NEW TO-DAY. MRS NETTIEHARRISON I GIVING AWAY SAMPLE =% BOTTLES ¥ i?fi HER CELEBRATED FACE BLEACH THIS WEEK. THE WONDERFUL FRECKLE CURE. Every one calling will be pre- sented with a sufficient quantity to give it a test and to satisfy themselves before buying that it is positively wonderful and the only sure cure for Freckles known to the world. One bottle to each person is the limit. Any one person known to call the second time for sample will be refused. No samples will be sent out of town unless other goods to the amount of $1.00 are purchased. Face Bleach Removes Sunburm and Tan in One Day. “T can remove the worst cases of Freckles,” says Mrs. Harrison, “in from 5 to 9 days, but as I am always willing to prove what I claim at my own expense, I now offer it free for one week.” ONE FREE TEST TREATMENT For Freckles and Wrinkles will be given to every lady calling this week. 4-Day Hair Restorer! I have got a Hair Restorer that is doing remarkable work. You will say so too if you buy it of me or have your druggist get it for you. Costs $1.00 Per Bottle. If you have tried hair restorers that did not restore and are skeptical what do you say to this? Ever Had This Chance Before? Any lady who wants to test this restorer before buying can this week bring to my office some fresh combings from her hair and I will give a PRACTICAL TEST FREE, TRIAT POT. JLediesoutof town sena- « ing this ad. with 10c {m stamps will receive a_book of instructionsand & box of Skin Food and Face Powder free. {MRS/HARRISONSREMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY/THEXELECTRIC ‘NEEDLE GUARARANTED -PERMANENTLY. MRS. NETTIE. HARRISON, BEAUTY DOCTOR, 40 and 42 Geary Street, Franc NOLAN BROS. SHOE C0. Buy your Shoes direct from the manufacturer and save the jobbers’, drummers' and agents’ pros fits. We retail shoes at wholesale prices. We have the largest store, and by far the largest stock to select from. NOLAN BROS. SHOE COMPANY, PHELAN BUILDING, 812-814 MARKET STREET. TELEPHONE 5527. INDORSED BY ALL THE LEADING PHYSICIANS AND DENTISTS! FREDRICK'S SANITARY TOOTH BRUSH With Torgue-Cleaner Attachment. PONT GO AROUND WITH A BAD TASTH In your mouth or coated tongue. A preventive against throat diseases. Mailed to any ad on receipt of 30 CENTS. WILL & FINCK CO., 818-820 Market St. STHE VERY BESTONETO EXAMINEYOUR es and fit them to Spectacles asses With imstraments. ot hia’ o ln":.u?:..‘:m euperiority has not been equaled. My s been due 10 the merits of my worke Hours—1210 6 2 2