The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 28, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 28, 1895. 19 Gown in pale bive poult de soie. The sleeves slashed with silve ith black satin bows. with waistband of spangled white net, and Syuare neck, with. spangles; bor-pleatde | enormously broad black satin ribbon; spangled AT lace, full-draped sleeves and-a Watte au- pleated back. The gown is direct from aris, and _is lined throughout with pale lavendar silk, a full ruche of which finishes the bottom, while a huge bow of ribbon in the same shade is tied at the left side, 8ilk waists are, if possible, more in vogue than ever, and one of the most stylish to be seen is of an entirely new chiffon, that is a bright plaid one, lined with bright sitk to match the tone of the plaid. Another waist, which I like, is of a dainty violet shot-silk cut square, and outlined with jet, below which were fringes of violets catching up a fall of pretty guipure. | Another evening bodice of cloth of gold | is made full and lined with a mastic tone, and the pagoda sleeves trimmed with gold lace and beads. At the throat is some em- broidered mauve velvet, worked all over | with gold threads, beads and paillettes and | some deep-colored petunia rosettes, which blend in with the tone of the velvet. These, nestled on one side, the crosscut folds at | the back, are new and very becoming, and peculiarly suited to the figure if passably good even. A pretty wrap for the even- ing is being made at one of our modistes’, and I particularly liked it because it will not reach a high” figure when completed. It is of the fashionable shade of crimson, ina French cloth very fine, with a small twill. It reaches from the throat to the feet, having a box pleat in the back. The sleeves are made with the pagoda cuff, and are of immense size. A ruche of dark- green chiffon encircles the throat, and the garment is edged with a galon in a Persian design combining half a dozen shades of | green and crimson. | The lining is of a dark green silk shot | with crimson. Little rosettes of chiffon at the throat and on the sleeves. | appe. i Sailor hats are always on the market, for | they suit almost every onejand each season | sees some variations in the crown, brim,or perhaps in both. But this season, I think, | they are the prettiest ever worn. One here | ISUSUULT TS Dainty Evening Toilette. Embroidered white muslin, combined with plain over pink glace silk. the oldest of all, seems to stand alone in its refusal to recognize officially the eligi- bility of women to compete on a par with men. Every known profession, occupation and trade seems now to be open to womenr in America. Apparently the medical profes. pique dresses, for their would be indeed incom- > or mo; gowns, ch g if built nd Eng- be two of wide godet ith a very deep itching. With ket setting some of them will be charm riven in the Frenc n papers. I wil bear] buttons Costume in beige crepon, with white spot. Skirt full on the hips, gathered into a shaped band of guipure over Eau de Nil silk. Full sleeves. Draped bodice, with full front of Eau de Nil chiffon. Epaulettes and_corselet of | guipure over the si Collar of Filted chiffon, edged with Valenciennes lace. Hat in white | chip and ostrich feathers; beige ince round the crown, in the back and a well-shaped rolling col- lar with medium-sized reveres. The second model has a Paquin skirt down the front width of which are sewn two wide parallel pieces of exceedingly | handsome embroidery, under which the | pique is cut out. The jacket is bolero | worn over a blouse of fine white linen. | The entire front and the crush collar is of | the same insertion which appears on the | skirt. The idea of cutting the material from under the embroidery is an excellent one, | as different colored silks can be sewn under | the open work, m ng a pretty change in the dress. To complete the costume a wid white leather belt with a silver buekle necessary. This jacket has very wide rounded reveres, and the sleeves are very | long, coming over the hands, and edged with embroidery. The trained godet skirt is being much < are very | | cedar-colored crepon with a tucked black | satin yoke ana a large pointed collar of | black satin traced with cut jet and sequins of a_golden-brown color, the bodice being made to over! the broad belt of black satin, which w Iso embroidered. A young girl wore at the same wedding a pretty costume. It was green in color, the surface of the material being some- what like a bouce canvas; it had a waist- coat of amethyst and green shot silk made in double box pleats, with strips of cream embroidery braced with colored silk and a th of gold. The bodice was adorned with amethyst buttons. A gown just sent out from a New York house for one of our matrons is decidedly stylish, being of a brown watered grena- | di ined with vellow silk, and it has a bodice of the same material, having a vest of the silk very beautifully embroidered in | shaded silks. | Many serge dresses are being prepared | for next month, and one of black serge has | the coat made short and full, with the large sleeves dropping from a pointed | yoke outlined with a strap of the cloth; at the back the velvet oollar and reveres | are moderate in size, and the shirt front is | made of tucked muslin and Valenciennes lace. The skirt is very full and godeted; at the extreme b of the skirt are three | narrow pipings ely together. | A good idea for all cloth gowns is to | have the nsual skirt, a_jacket with reveres | faced with silk in some contrasting shades | and a vest of the cloth or of white muslin either tucked or frilled ora combination of frills and tucks. | For evening toilettes to be worn at sum- mer resorts China silks are the most used; those in Dresden colors are made more beautiful when ornamented with Dresden china buttons mourtea in silver, which are now quite the thing. A lovely gown of this silk in a gray tone is relieved with old lace and touches of red velvet which ap- pear on the sleeves, at the waist and on the shoulders. A French gown which may be worn at one of the sweliest hops this summer is of rose-pink satin; its bodice has a drapery of whitish green miroir vi vet studded with amber and white crys- tals, and softened by a fall of old lace at the shoulders; the sleeves are in the fash- ion now so much affected. A new color is called “‘beetroot,” and a gown in which it figures may be described as being com- posed of beetroot chiffon over glace silk to match, the chiffon being veiled with black gauze, which is covered with bunches of odd pinkish colored roses, alternated with a worn, and is extremely pretty and apppro- A Pretty Morning Gown. bon are finished with white bows. draped sleeves. White Pompadour Silk with pattern of roses. Perpendicular stripes of lace on white rib- The pouch front is caught up in the center, and a white bow s placed on each side of the waist, the ribbon and lace trimming forming bretelles; is in nut-brown fancy straw, trimmed with yellow Brussels lace'and geranium-colored velvet, the bow standing erect in the back in the most approved style; a spray of geranium on the right side will rest on the wearer's head. Another sailor chapeau was of a deep blue-colored straw, trimmed merely with one of the new striped rib- bons. Then one happened to be of blue and crimson and was very stylish. For visiting, long pufty-colored gloves stitched in black or putty-colored silk will be much worn, but the latest and newest fad of allis the yellow glove, real canary and maize color being the two shades. One of the Latest Styles. priate for house and carriage wear. How- ever, the tendency is to shorten the skirts of street dresses so that they shall clear the ground all round, and I am glad of this, as our streets are certainly very dirty. and now that the doctors tell us how many horrible germs can be collected on the bottom of one skirt—why, it is simply appalling. 7 ur numerous weddings lately havi brought out some rea]]ye lovely ygv)wnse. One that many remarked on was of a stripes of black satin. The front of the waist and sleeves display a very fascinat- ing arrangement by accordion-pleated beet- root chiffon; a cape of the floyer-covered gauze is frilled on the shoulders, and straps of passementerie studded with jet are most effectively used as trimming. A delightful tea-gown, which has not vet been worn by its pretty purchaser, is of the most beautiful quality of alpaca. The ground is white. covered with bunches of wistaria. It has large reveres of heavy They are made of glace kid, stitched with black, bound in black kid, and have four quite large black buttons. The style of parting the hair is rapidly going out of style in Paris. MARCELLA. aE Sl THE AMERICAN PROFESSIONAL WOMAN. It is asserted that Max O’Rell, the cele- brated French wit, recently made the as- sertion that if he could choose his nation and his sex he would choose to be an American woman, and, as he implies by this assertion, the position of American women strikes with astonishment all for- eigners who travel in the States, for the American women are qn an equality with men. In Chicago, for instance, down in the city there stands an immense and very fine building, and that is the Woman’s Temple. At the exposition there in 1893 one of the finest structures in the fair grounds was the Women’s building, de- signed and built by a woman. In the con- gresses and at the exposition generally woman took an equally prominent part with man. American women talk radically on all subjects, even to the changes of the laws and emancipation. In order to get an adequate idea of the conditions of American professional women in 1895, we have to consider the high state of education they have attained to to-day, the professions and occupations open to them and their political status. In America there are over 100 first-class colleges and universities entirely open to women. Some, like Vassar, Wellesley, Smith and Bryn Mawr, are for women ex- sion was the first sought by women, and now more than 1000 women practitioners of the healing art are scattered over the States and work on an equal footing with the men. The profession of theology has attracted fewer women, and it has been less easy for them to obtain recognition as pastors and preachers; but the theological schools of the Unitarian and Methodist Episcopal churches admit women students. T)E\’ere are ordained women preachers in the The New Butterfly Bouquet is very graceful when designed by a good florist. An especially pretty one was composed of lilies of the valley and pink roses. The spreading wings or bow- like sides of the bouquet were all of lilies and their own foliage; the center of pink roses; when finished the whole is lightly veiled with a few small fronds of asparagus fern. As will be seen by the accompanying sketch, the bou- quet had a long loop, and two ends of wide soft ribbons, one with very narrow pink and white stripes, the other soft green and white, tinged with pink on the reverse side. Narrow ribbons and trails can be used, but rather de- number of bouquets of this design clusively, and others are mixed, Harvard, supplicd for a forthcoming wedding. or &’omen . Baptist, Congregational, Universalist, Uni- tarian, “Christian,”” Methodist and Primi- tive Methodist denominations, and over 350 women preachers among the Society of Friends. here are ~about 700 women preachers and pastors in the United States to-day. The legal Yro{ession was the last of the three so-called learned professions to o?ened to women in America, not because of reluctance on the part of the courts, but because women did not so easily apply for admission. There are now not less than eleven law schools open to women, and | twenty-five States and Territories admit women to the bar. There are over 200 women lawyers in America, nine of whom are admitted to practice before the Su- preme Court of the United States. The women of Wyoming have full suf- frage, and municipa! suffrage is granted women in Kansas.” In twenty-eight more Btates they have a right to vote upon school matters, and there are at least twenty-nine out of a total of forty-eight States where women enjoy some form of suffrage. 3 The political conditions of American woman to-day may be briefly summed up thus: Whileshe is not yet admitted to the full exercise of political rights except in Wyoming, she possesses very generally some right to vote on local matters, and to hold many executive offices; she, in all walks of life, is considered nearly, if not entirely, the equal of man, and in many cases his superior. Sheis on a_ par with him in respect to freedom to labor and earn money ; she may vote, hoid office, do business, enter upon any profession as the social equal of man, enjoying respectful consideration and chivalrous treatment. Above all, sheis a good wife and house- keeper, and a most devoted mother, in spite of all her outside avocations.—Queen. e LI O TWO SONNETS BY HEINRICH HEINE. DEDICATED TO HIS MOTHER. (Translated from the German by M. E. Rich- ardson.) To MY MorsER, B. H BoRN B. VoxX GELD- ERN.—N0 1, To bear my head right proudly is my habit, My temper, t00, is somewhat proud and surly, Shiould the King meet me face to face, why truly 1 would not droop mine eyelids for a minute. But, dearest mother, openly 1 say it, Though pride triumphant swells my bosom surely, Yet in thy gentle presence, calm and holy, 1 seem possessed by some &weet lowly spirit. Is it thy soul, mine secretly constraining? Thy dsuntless, noble soul, 110 fers restraining From soaring upward heav'n’s pure light attaining. Sad the remembrance I haveoft committed So many deeds by which that heart was wounded, Dear heart that beats for me with love unbounded. . 2. Filled with vain hopes I left thee once to journey Thr{mgh the wide world from end to end, attempt- ng To find true love, it anywhere "twas hiding, | Anud, finding it, embrace it lovingly, And so, through every street, at every portal, 1 stretehed mine arms out, with a loving yearning, Begging the least e’en of love’s gifts, and earning Cold hatred only from each sneering mortal. And ever searching for true love, and ever, The love I sought for, true love, found I never. Atlast! I turned me homeward, sad, repining, ‘And there, thou camest forth with joyous greeting, And ah! I'saw in thy dear eyes, mine meeting Thelovelong sought, the sweetest true love shiaing. | it s e A FAMOUS LADY DOCTOR. The French papers have lately an- nounced the appointment of Mme. Tou- | rangin, M.D., to the post of chief medical officer, in succession to the late Dr. Dujar-, din Beaumetz, to the Lycee Fenelon, the only establishment for girls upon the lines of the public Iycees for boys in France. Mme. Tourangin’s life history is an inter- esting one, and a_ French correspondent who forwards it thinks it will be read with some sympathy in this country, where the medical profession has become so well recognized as a woman’s vocation. Tt is only within the last few months that Mme, | Tourangin changed her maiden name of Chopin for the one she now bears, as the wife of a well-known physician, who has practiced for some twenty years past in Paris, and under whom' she had long | studied. Mme. Tourangin was born in the re- motest wilds of Brittany, and came to Paris as a girl of 19 in 1879. Her education thus far bad been of the most elementary character, and had been received at a_con- | vent. But she was ambitious and obser- vant. Scientific studies had great attrac- | tions for her,and toward medicine she showed decided leanings. She consulted Dr. Tourangin, who was known to her fam- ily, and he strongly advised herto enter upon a medical career. What seemed at first an almost insurmountable barrier, however, was the fact that the two exami- nations for Baccalaureat es Lettres and se Sciences physique would have to be passed first; but she set herself to work | was the favorite pupil of Dr. Dujs | eminent surgeon, and also saw a good deal A NEW STYLE GOWN. cipal councilor, and in three years the first of these trials was safely ace complished. A year later the second was aghieved, she meantime having en- tered the Hospital St. Antoine. Here sil_xe din Beaumetz, who gave her the full benefit of all_his own knowledge and experience, | and afterward did all in his power to | launch her upon professional success. As a dresser she worked with Cochin, the | of surgery with Dr. Perier, while she spent some months with Dr. Hanot, the great French specialist in diseases of the liver. By 1896 her medical degree was won, and a paper she wrote after six months’ experi- menting with Professor Armand Gautier upon salicylic acid and its properties and uses caused considerable sensation in the | medical world. Shortly aiterward Dr. | Dujardin Beaumetz requested her to help | him with his work as medical adviser at the Ecole Normale d'Institutrices de la | Seine, and later on nominated her officially as his assistant at the Lycee Fenelon. He always hoped and predicted that she would be his successor, and his wish, therefore, is accomplished, as she is now responsible for the health and well-being of the pupils and staff of this great institution. | She married in October last, having al- ready built herself up a valuable private practice. She intends to give up her old consulting rooms in order to have one un- der the same roof as Dr. Tourangin, but this does not imply that they will have the same patients. Mme. Tourangin will rather devote herself to gynecology and the diseases of childhood. In her rare moments of leisure she cultivates art, and is both an acomplished pianist and clever and pleasing draughtswoman. In private life she is a charming companion, and is ;10r§0nal!_\' very popular alike in her pro- ession and with her patients. There are no more than five women doctors in all Paris, of whom Mme. Tourangin is one, and certainly not the least distinguished of that brilliant little band.—M. F. B., in the Queen. . Since the year 1887, in which year the | with all the enerfiy at her command, under M. Piperand, well known since as a muni- emigrants from Ireland—natives of This cloak is made of black satin de Lyons, with the back set in a box plait, the Sfront hav- with glittering fringes at intervals. tract from the special character of the style. A | ing long square ends, while the satin over the shoulders is graduated shorter on the arm and are being | longer at the front than at the back; lace quillings decorate the neck, and Jjet motifs hang 82,993 Ireland—amounted to there has been a gradual decrease in the annual number, and that for last year is the low- est recorded since the collection of the re- turns commenced in 1851. It presents a rate of 7.8 per 1000 of the estimated popula- tion. with the exception of the rates for 18 which it slightly exceeds, is the lowest rate for any of the years over which the returns extend. YALE'’S Almond Blossom Complexion Cream What is more beautiful than the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks of a precious little baby ? Every woman will gladly admit—noth- ing. What would you give to have just such a complexion ? I can distinctly hear the echo of every woman’s answer—every- thing I possess. Now, my dear friend, let me tell you a little secret that is not generally known. Mme. 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