Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 10, 1910, Page 42

are two gowns in a girl's lite that are preéminently important: the graduat- ing gown and the wedding gown, There is something %0 quaint and charming about the new styles, which are so simple that they are particularly adapted: for the mak- Ing of the graduating frock. The return of these “little girl frocks,” as they are called, means that the skirt with flounces has again returned. A word of warning should, however, he given to the short, plump, sweet girl graduate who wishes to rush to fashion's changes without considering whether the lat- est will be becoming or not, These new flounced skir which are now being featured everywhere for graduat- ing frocks are not really becoming for any but the tall, slim girl; for them this is a lovely way to make this most important gown, especially when dlaphanous shadow laces or the sheer embroldered flouncings are used. Somehow this style seems to call for a sash of flower rfbbon, showing old fashioned sprigged designs in soft blurred colors. The body of these sashes, which are in #oft satin, is usually in dull white or cream. Now for the secrets of these slim looking gowns. The first thing to consider Is the material. In graduating frocks just about the same materlals are used from year to year, though this season spotted Swisses and mercerized stuffs, such as silk muslins, French batistes, organdies, and like material, seem to be more favored Something soft and yet with a little body is much more suited to the styles of 1910 than the stiffer organdies, The silk muslin comes wide and is really inexpensive. Batiste of an excellent quality can be purchased most reasonably and chiffon lawn, which comes extremely wide, can also be purchased at little cost. All these materisls will launder. * = All modes shown for the graduating frock are obvi- ously from peasant sources. The sleeves, almost without exception, are made short; that is, reaching to the elbow or slightly below, and finished with sheer undersleeves of more fitting form. The undersleeve, which is also short, shows only about an inch below the sleeve proper. Some of them are cut to show the elbow, a deplor- able exposure, for unless the elbow itself be practi- cally out of sight in flesh and beautified by dimples it 1s never attractive. Lven the best looking of el- bows adds to its charms by veiling itself in thin stufts. The wise girl will have her sleeve come well over thé elbow. Unfortunately not many girl ones, can have tapering forearms, and hands, and unless so blessed they should be most careful to have their sleeves cut of sufficient sige, for tight sleeves accentuate the lack of taper in the arm and the size of large wrists and hands. The sleeve cut In one with the bodice 1s seen in al these costumes. This style of sleeve commends ftselt immediately where the frock is home made. To cut the body and sleave in one is to escape one of the most tire. some parts of dressmaking, the setting In of the sleevo, The most charming of the blouses shown in these frocks Is the one plece arrangement, If the material is wide enough. By this method the sleeve seam and the underarm seam of the walst are In one, so that there 1s only a single seam to be sewn on either side. The style {s most graceful, and where one is extremely slender the tendency to make one's chest 100k narrow may be avolded by properly placed tucks or a well shaped yoke, % In alming for the simplicity of style, which Is the chief requiremont of the graduating frock, it must be curetully considered that there is always danger of an oxaggerated simplicity, and this must be avolded, Al new fashions, no matter what their charm or caprice should really be regarded by womankind as susgestions rather than as stern laws. It is always possible to met mueh beauty from an ugly fashion, just as It is pos. to get much ugliness from a bemutiful fa the personal element that counts in clothes. Therefor one must study and strive for that which Is a the individual and which tends most 10 make attractive It isn't the newness of the ides, so much as it fs ¢ newness with which it ia carried out. * ow This spring it is the youth note that counts in gradu- Ating frocks. There 1o no place for modes that plicated. The only touch of charming old time sort The popular corsage for these frocks has no neckb, at all, so that the throat is left quite uncovered. In some cases no attempt is made (o relleve the corsage of the somewhat unfinished appearance, such as the ar rangement gives. It is a little girl fashion; that is cer- taln. Any child looks delightful with her throat bare, and almost any girl graduate does too. The collarless bodice brings in its train the vogue of the flat lace collar—the collar of grand- mothers. Time was when these dames thought nothing of investing anywhere from $100 to $200 in a lace col- lar. The woman of today, however, may buy them at almost any price, but it is the real hand made lace collar which is considered most correct. This may be crocheted by the girl graduate or be of Mechlin, point de Venlse, Cluny, or Irish. Fortunate, indeed, Is the €lrl who has such treasures among her heirlooms, The name by which these collars are miostly known is the Claudine collar. What of the girl graduate with the scrawny neck? The only thing for her to do I3 to go to the be: for bleaching and massage, and every day from now on until her graduation take neck exerclses. But where a &irl finds that any of the new V or Dutch necks are unbecoming to her she will do well to defy the collarless mode and keep at least a plain, shegr veiling of lace or mousseline over her throat. There I no denying, how- ovar, that much can be dome to make an ugly neck beau. il In planning the graduating outfit do not get too many frocks. A frock fur every class occasion 1s foollshness The graduating frock and a pretty, simple little frock that will answer for reception wear are all that is needed, The graduating frock should, of course, be white, the other little frock will he found more satistactory if chosen with & white background, with sprigs of flowers in it; wee flower sprigs in pink, lavender, or yellow, with ehiply tucked or plalted skirts or gored skirts with clus- . even small, plump with small wrists he are com- qualntness is that of the auty shop A Charmingly Simple and Givlish odel. ters of s ¢ uf front and the back and finished w ouses tuck with a =q cluny or lare two rufics. d or plaited on the shoulder and made Duteh neck finished with a little real Irish lace Irfsh fnserting and valenciennes a triflo full and ending just below the in a cuft band matching the neck-finish Blouse and skirt jolned togethor by a walst band of the material. With frock is worn a sash ‘The slim lookirg effect is the t t for in these gowns. It rests In t the linlng and the adjusi Most of these frocks lining. ate slip L the full figure a dress better unlined If a meat, worn underneath it. In selecting the lingerie fine grades should be chosen for the body of the material, rather than the cheaper ones and more elaborate trimming. It will be found that batiste is a much better choice than hands kerchief linen. The.latter wears well, but costs more and musses easily and Is also inclined to get stringy. Every possible plait or gather is omitted from the lingerie, the lines following closely the lines of the dress.” The combinations are the most popular. The pattern which includes the drawers, skirt, and corset cover in one, Is by far the favorite. Whatever form is declded upon, get a good pattern. Trimmings are easily varied If the lines are good. The favorite trimmings are valenclennes, cluny, fine Irish lace, and a tiny, fine torchon. Whatever the lace, hand embroidery is combined 'with it. The fa- vorite ‘forms in embroidery are wreath and festoons of small flowers, medallions grouped in different sizes, or detached bunches of flowers. The fashlon \dea In regard to underwear Is that it must be perfectly smooth fitting. There must be absolutely no fullness about the waist or hips, and flat effects in decoration hold sway. In matter of shoes and hosiery., both should match the gown. As to coiffures, fashion has again favored graduate. The first demand is that it be There are no more formal curls, no fast puffs, no heavy and hot rats. merable styles In colffure, but all are characterized by simplicity and shapeliness. This season it Is the duty to emphasize the shape of the head. The hair may be worn in & low pompadour or parted in front. ‘The side hair must be brushed back horizontally and are Sleeves olbow lace sought rrangement of of the skirt without an attached worn instead. Kven for soft, thin material is much we! ade foundation slip is are A s se the gin simple. more hard and There are innu- wave back gracefully and naturally. It must not be drawn to the top of the head In a harsh line, leaving the ugly outline of the hair about the ears exposed. For the back hair the smartest mode is the low psyche knot. Nothing so destroys the charm of youth as excesslve elaboratton and the adaptation of this season's style of coiffure to the girl graduate will depend for Its becomingness on the judgment and taste of the woarer. Bear these frcts in mind when arranging your hair. First of all, tho nose and chin must be reckoned wi.. and the shape of the head should be definitely su gested, 1If not closely followed. By pushing the pompadour slightly forward and ar- ranging the mas: of hair directly on top it can rendér & conspicuous nose less prominent; by keeping the hair fairly flat on the crown and by wearing a psyche knot, & nose insignificant or rétroussé can be made to take its place in a profle. Individual hairdressing is not ‘always plcturesque and one should avoid being too individual in the man- ner of dressing her haly, just as she should be carefal not to adopt & colffure just because it is the prevail- ing mode. If possible dress the hair along the lines that are fashionable, but modify your coiffure to exactly suit your own features, for few have the training or the Instinct to'venture far into the uncoa- ventional.