Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, April 10, 1910, Page 40

M FAVORS THETURBAN Exhibits of Spring Millinery in the Easter Parade. | RED THE DOMINANT COLOR Bold Combinations of Bril Aftfected—Various Shading Bhployed in Trim- min, ” New TYork women donned thelr spring | hats earlier than usual this vear—not be | eause climatic conditions were more favor- { wble, but Enster falls earlier than usual, | @nd perhaps because many spring hats [ velvet faced and present hardly any gestion of airiness. As usual, turbans had first call, although | not by any means to the exclusion of large ahapes. The blcorn s the most popelar in medium-priced hats, and for the more ex- pensive hats the new sallor and nameless ploture shapes were snapped up. There has been & most pronounced favor- ftism shown for red In its clear and drilllant tones, and up to the time of our golng to press the Chantecler craze has not abated. While roosters appear whole on some of the more ultra hats, the majo, ! 4ty of the women are content with only the head or tall, or sometimes head as the decoration for thelr Easter Pheasant talls are In great demand. Th are often used with the rooster’s head. and are considered smarter than the coque feather, which has ‘been In evidence all winter. The golden hen pheasant was the object of the lordly Chantecler’s affection in Rostand's barnyard drama, 8o that it is but fitting that her plumage should share in the honor awarded her mate by the sartorial world. Very gorgeous are the ocolorings of some of these pheasant feath- ers, for in them we find repeated the many colors peculiar to Persian embrolderies and materials, which are, as we know, enjoying great popularity. Brightness of the Offerings. Draperies of cashmere, silk and chiffon are one of the sallent features of month, remarkablo for the brightness of its millinery offerings. Bold indeed are some of the combinations of color affected. B.ue and red, both -in every strohg bright shades, make & favorite combination, and these shades, by the way, are the two leading colors. Blue s good In every shude from marine to French biue, and while up to the present chantecler and other vivid reds have'been the only reds considered, a deeper mote ls struck with the Introduction of Van Dyke red, which bids fair to be well lfked, therefore popular. There have been comparatively few all- bdack hats #old this season, but there are, of course, stunning black hats made. bright , With flowers or colored ostrich, and & very large pereontage of hats are faced with black straw or velvet. Quantities of black maltne as used for the wide-spreading wired bows that are placed across the buck i of the largest sha or arranged In a | tan-llke shape, or a chou on the turban and toque. Then, too, €0 many coronets are made of maline plaited or laid into | folds, which are woven basket fashion. Full crowns of maline, Velllng flowers are also used, and recently the idea of putting « single layer of maline over the entire hat has been noted, the maline being in self or contrasting coler, as.the designer sees fit. Perstan chiffon and French crepe is used this way, too, although more often puton with some fullnesd. Changesble taffeta is a material to be reckoned with this season, particularly in naore coiorings. Wide taffeta ribbon is wall liked but the ribbon most in demand 18 velvet, in black and the fashionable col- ors. There are many novelties in ribbons, and the colored backed yvelvet ribbons may be put In this category. % Lace Is growing in favor, but there are no transparent effects, the lace always being « over straw. There are novelties In quls, cabochons and buckles made of narrow valenciennes lace, it Is - chantily lace that is the prime favorite, and black is used over white and highly colored straws. e Popularity of Lace and Net. Lace 18 being used more and more in millinery, and net never was stronger. Black net and leace lead. Maline and squaresmesh silk net are more popular more than the figured variety, but that, too, is| used. There is not the amount of gold or silver used for .hat. trimming that there has been this winter, but for costumes the tinsel effects are stlll very strong. The en- tive shape Is clouded with net, lace of Per- slan chiffon, usually stretched, without ful- Tiess, over the entire hat. ‘The newest large hats are quite flat and are worn at a pronounced angle, which per- mits of the introduction of some trimming on the under brim. One moss rose and bud is & favorite ‘under-brim ornamenta- tion. A very smart Van Dyke red hemp pressed hat, with sunken crown and rolling brim, had for its trimming a single moss ross laid on the upper brim edge, & little to the flat of the front. The under-brim was | draped with Persian sk to within about two inches of the edge, an end of the silk Testing on the hair. Persian Ribbon and Flat Crowns. Porsian ribbon is used for bows and to drape & flat crown. A bronze straw hat has two bands of six-mch Persian ribbon drawn from the left under-brim, at the headsize, over the bfim and dlagonally Wcross the crown, where it ended at the vight brim, belng held by a moss rose. As ‘the shape was & wide, very flat one, and the trimming was applied flat, this model mey serve as an example of the new pan- cake hat. There 18 & great demand for colored vel- wet ribbon in all widths from one inch. Red, blue and green are the leading shades. Ribbég drawn over the brim and bowed on the under-brim is & feature. Bows are also made of plece goods, chiffon and short-nap velvet belng chosen. Pendant Ornaments and Buckles. 1In the ornament line, the pendant or ear ring variety is very strong. Tallored hai show larke buckles of straw and Perslan siik. The silk is usually accordeon pleated the straw—a coarse tuscan—is used ‘The straw ornament of plateaux are used, not only in ufacturing of toques, but for mak- wns' A ‘very smart wide-brimmed chip hat had & made crown of two plateaux, the lower one a dull rose he ' upper ' black. These were draped the rose in & wide band across in & wing-like arrangement ; there being no other. trim- i ! it and slde, was predioted by .us several months tha £ ¢ P § t ant Shades the | | Stores, Leghorn hat, with shaded roses frame, velvet facing, THE OMAHA and black velvet ribbon; SUNDAY BEE: APRII No. 1, Pennell Millinery company, brown straw and silk velvet bow aigrettes; No. 2, Kilpatrick, Wh ite straw frame, dark brown facings, white No, 4, Merscheim, hand-made.tuscon trimmed white willow plumes and aigrettes; No. 6, The Bennett company, beautiful yellow willow straw frame, black velvet bow and and ribbon; No. 7 straw frame, bound, draped with white chiffon, black velvet ornament. with light blue ribbon and ostrich aigrette; 0NN sh WRAPS TO MATCH THE One of the Season's Notions in Mod Drees. | |{EVENING WEAR IS IMPORTANT Conts Widely Varled {n Charncter and Line—Curfous M Combinations of terinls and Colors—Charm of the Evening Coat. and were that coat in a scems & pity not op ck hes of these some slight the nd in this nee of dr 4 enormous! Ct with frocks are modish and vary widely in line araped coats or cloaks on the order of the Agnes model in the grayish crocus tone are lined with chiffon in white or hade blending with the coat and are en admirable in line, offering oppor nities for soft and subtle draping, though effect of the lines must be long and character. Long heliotrope of lined or the gene and clinging These ¢ be trimmed in em- ially of self-tone and heavy weight down the filmy folds. have trimmings of self-color other siik, of lace dyed to match itfon or of dull metallic thread. Or aps quaint little old fashioned ruchings fringe, wide or narrow may be used for trimming of this type are worn over frocks and there are chitfon cloaks, too, in the vivid deep bluex, and the less sober wear and even- oats and draped tamine, tulle, ete., in the lighter colorin and often in curious combinations whic vould be ghastly if fell just short of belng consummately One such cloak is in one of the m ripe peach pinks and has for | trimming embroidery of periwinkle blue | tones with just a touch of black satin. | Ana apropos of pink cloaks, one of the loveliest e¢vening coats we have seen is in crevette, a delicious of some supple light [ satin fini epe and has a lining of [black tulle. The shape fs the modified Japanese loose sleeve and coat cut in one, but without exaggerated armhole.’ Sleeves and entire coat are bordered with wide, flat turned-back bands of black tulle, one thickness, handsomely embroidered In silver. The raised design in silver against the background of pink gleaming softly through the velling black is indescribably effective, Tulle or chiffon coats of another type, ! simple of line, stralght, narrow, unlined, are made p In’ black or the deep blues for general wear over white frocks or may be en suite with a frock, as in the elab- orate vet severe Beer frock sketched for the large cut on the opposite page. We have seen one chic emerald green coat of this type which worn over white would bs eoftened enough not to seem aggressive and would be uncommonly effective Wwith the right frock and hat. But to return to our muttons, or to the coat and frock costumes of that pft cited opening. The two models grouped with the draped chiffon coat of the Agnes cos- tume were from Callot Soeurs and were, of thelr kind, as attractive as anything we have seen this season. Color had as usual much to do with their success, but may \ to th y may per of silk or or Black coats colored or white dark and lovel rays the for e are ravishing s of chiffon g while successful | the new ehrimp pink | shade. 1t made plume: h 3, Brandeis No. Haydens, black straw sses Riley, white year. The style in sallors seems to be in no way bounded by tradition. For the most part, they are huge affairs of Jumbo pine- apple and. other .coarse braids, although later on the white milan sailor will no doubt gain In prominence. Flat, roll and mushroom sailors are being offered. The mushroom hat is ‘& decided protection against the sun's rays, and for this reason firds ready purchasers. The rolled-brim sailor is really the newest, and for that reason will probably lead. Some of the flat sallors are faced and banded with color. Velvet ribbon is used to band many of the newest sallors, vivid colors having the preference. Trimmed sailors for early wear are strong.—April Millinery Trade Re- view. WILL JUDGES CONSIDER IT? A Suggestion from Busy Business Concerning Service om the Jury. The published story of a millinery mer- chant of New York being fined $110 for not appearing ‘in‘one' of the courts when his name was called to serve as & jury- man has caused no little comment in busi- ness circles, and some people consider it a huge joke; but it is no joke for a business | man to arrive at hif office in the morning |and find that there s a great amount of | work awaiting his attention, which he | must leave In order to answer a jury sum- | mons. The judge upon the bench may be an hour in reaching the court; the clerk, who may consider himself the most im- portant individyal of the state, may put | obstacles in the way of the business man| | reaching the judge—but all this does not count. If he has not “seen’ a friend, who “sees the clerk” and gets him off, he is as much of a prisoner as the culprit who Is to be tried. Of course, it is a mistake to indorse the jury summons with the words, “Too busy to serve”; that's turning your back on the augubt tribunal. . But what a farce our jury system is anyway. We hope this is not contempt-of court.— Millinery Trade Review GIVE THE GIRLS A SHOW Training for Boys, Why Not Millinery Training for Girls, Manual training in our public schools is & most excellent innovation and every effort should be rpade by the public at large o Increase its efficlency, but when pupils of millinery classes are to do'work for the public at cut prices, under the supervision of Instructors . and .during lesson periods, it is carrying the scheme of making young women self-sustaining a little [too far. The object of manual training sehools is (o teach millinery as the s of obtalaing a livelihood, *not m-:% classes Into competition with retail mil- linery establishments by conducting busi- ness at the public expense. It some of our cities establishing manual training classes cannot comduct them without foreing the tion by thé public, for that purpose. Mil- liners have a hard time as it is,. without having to compete against civil authorities, who advertise the. making and trimming of headwear at cut rates.—Millinery Trade Review. SUNDAY WOMEN MARY MACLANE AT HOME “Montana Bashikirtseff' Out with Unigue Remi- nisences. e Breaks Mary MacLane of Butte, Mont,, has come to lite again. It seems a long time since anything has been heard of her—that time the perplexing creature wrote her story of herself that startled America. After her first book, written at 19, which won for the author the name of the “Montana Bashkirtsef! full of assertions she was & genius, that she was searching for & “dear devil” who would Introduce the desired “‘scarlet” into her life, she came to Manhattan and wrote impressions of what she called ‘the mys- terlous east” for the World. After that Mary went to Boston and en- tered college. She wrote another book called “Annabel Lee,” which did not rival her first book in popularity. She was heard from at long intervals, and now she has turned up again in Butte, Mont. She is writing a “Second Story of Margaret M Lane” for the Butte Evening News, and from It one gathers varipus Interesting items of the seven years since Mary first demanded the attention of the public. Right away one reads that Mary hasn't been wasting her time, but in the werds of a popular chanson of yesterday, she's “been learning. something every da: “I left -Butte crude, Innocent and inex- perlenced,” she’ writes. “I return to it in the role of a frazzled old rounder, New York has been my ablding place these many, many moons, and it's been. in some ways my undoing.” Concerning New York, she write: I know New York as I know Butte, Mont., for exactly what it {s. I have no roseate illusion about it. It has lodged mo not-as a transient bird of passage, but a8 ne of the 4,000,000 who call it home. I well know that it is no place . to g0 | 1o gather lilles. It's paving stones are the paving stones of hell. But on them walk people who are more wopdertul than, Ulies. ADd the lesson it teaches fs the adamant truth itself. 'It's the subtle freemasoary among the millions, the silent recognition and understanding of each other's human- ness and the half suggedtion’ of Mitlmacy that one feels toward all or any of the per- sons one meets and passes on Broadway— it's that that's all the charm and enchant- ment of it. And. too,.it's. thal .together. with the glitter of the white way, that is the most alluring and - treacherous and annipllatiig of il the attributes of the vampire. In truth, it is that quality that is/the vampire. For it's' Intimscy’ with human befngs ‘ard all that it betokens—the | exchanging of bits of one's personality for | bite of another's,’ the, idiosyncracies of friendship, the nerve-racking experience of puplls to seek business from oOutsiders in order to defray the of the school, _being.in Jove, the hypnotic effects. of one t it was golng (o b & big sallor |they should desist or walt for ah appropria- personality upon mnother, the utier throw- Ing to the winds of all one's reserves of body and soul before the compelling inagnetisms of some and the lesser intoxi- catlon of knowing one's own domination of others—it is all theso things that devour ! flesh and blood and nerve. They eat their | way from the outer wall that guards the crude human being to the inmost keep of the citadel. One's loves and friendships have effects on one's slim young body and one's wayward mind . that are more malignant than cocaine and more subtle than absinthe. But it's all so exquisitely and poetically and seductively worth while. What a plcure of youth it is in the Mar- tin at 4 in the afternoon!—a picture of tired, tired youth, women like crushed lilies or half-wilted jonquils. They are all in the clutch of the vampire. The mark of the vampire is on thelr delicate rouged and faintly-drooping lips, in the glint of thelr all-knowing eyes, upon tneir iusolent brows and iIn the movements of their slender hands.. Thelr hearts and bodies are weary from the ceaseless glitter of the world and from thelr endless pursuit of pleasure—a pleasure like an ignis fatuus that is alway u little way beyond, that never, never walts. 1 have myself seen It around corners, behind doors, at the top of flights of stalrs—always beyond, never in my hands or by my side. I have sat, times, {in the Martin, with rome delectablé com- panion, twirling the stem or my absinthe | | glass with my thumb and finger and with my chin ou my hand, and looked about at | the gay-hearted company and wondered If | they xnew they had neves caught up with the ignis fatuus pleasure, and never would —and If they did that *he flavo: of the grape would become wormwood on their | lips, and the daylight shudowed, and the | musie stilled. WORK WITH SILK MILL GIRLS| Bxperiences Among the Workers ‘ the . Big Mi of Penn- aylvan | In Harper's for April, Miss Florence San- ville of the Consumers’ league of Philadel- phia tells of her experiences as a worker in one of the Pehnsylvania silk mills. Miss | Sanville and & friend, Miss Cochran, ob-| talned work as ordinary mill hands in| .arder. ta make. a thorough study of the| conditions in the mills. *“The evils of prolonged hours of labor | for growing girls are intensified when this | labor is performed at night. Night work | atter a'given’ hour is prohibited by law for all women in certain industries in a .fow | states, Massachusetts, for Instance, re- textiia fastory after 6 p. m.. Other states | protect all gifls up to & certain age from | any night employment—as in Ohlo, where no girl under 18 years of age Is allowed to work after 6 p. m. Many states,have no’ restrictive ‘legislation ‘on this subject. Pennsylvanla, four years ago, forbade all children under 18, with the exception of boys, In certain kinds of occupation, to work for wages after 9 p. m., and the ure of 199 has included all girls be. fow 18 years in this protested class But )usea ter.' | the min. quires that no woman shall work in a| this law, which sounds so well on paper, has up to the present proved but a lame one on account of the loose requirements of the age certificates; how lame Miss Cochran and I saw most clearly on the evening when we first applled for work on the night shift, “As we went into the tactory our passage was blocked by a return stream of girls, and the announcement that ‘the boller was burst and thers ‘was no work that night.' In the outpouring throng, jubilant at their release, were so many short skirts that it might well have been a group of school girls, dismissed late by their teacher. We naturally fell in with the girls whose way led In the same direction as ours, and we walked down the raliroad track together. ** ‘Yer never worked nights, did yer? was the first question put to us. We confessed not. ‘Y'll git more fer it—but it's terrible hard.' I asked about the hours and found that they were from 6:30 in the evening until 6 in the morning, with a half-hour at midnight. “They keep' the doors locked £0 that no one can't git out—they didn't ‘A few of the girls left the track to cut across a nearby lot. ‘We're goin' to git blueberries afore it gits dark,’ they cailed out as they went aw ‘I most always go’ berryi' when I| leave the mill in the mornin's,’ one of our | companions vouchsafed to us, *‘Oh no—I can't sleep none when I leave T g0 to bed after dinner, when | I've helped my ma some,’ “‘It's not so bad at nights when you gits used to It another encouraged us.; ‘When yer ends it all up the boss lets you | lle on the floor and go to sleep, ‘Most of the girls takes a nap about 3 o'clock, and he don't say nuthin', | faghion will not permit the use of HAT PIN| Cover the line and detall wero admirable, too, and there was a striking contrast between the girdled coat hinting at Russian influence and the cut-away taffota, with its turned back fronts and its 0dd little trimming of self-bralding, all a figitive echo from the courts of the Louls. The color scheme of the costumo with belted coat would have {o be seen to be appreciated. The frock is of cachemire chiffon, that is chiffon of cachemire or Perslan deslgn and is In two exquisite shades, one of the new sofe graylsh lav- enders or violets and a deliclous chamols which blends perfectly with the violet, The skirt siightly below the knees and held by a scarf of violet silk. The girdled coat §s of a pecullariy soft corded silk In plaints against the use of the hat pin of |, gyay violet, with hand embroldery it extreme length. But what are women 10|y ung in soutache matching the silk in do? The old-style hat pin ia useless. Tho [ o / size of the present hat crown necessitates| ;| o0 yo now and qelicate shades of a long pin to pass through the crown &nd |, .o\ i "o way' used for the model with the colfture in order that the hat may be|" R O byt L i (ruluvm_\ cbat, the frock being in blue ehif e which American manufacturers on effectively embroidered in white, while B e an yot introduced 1o any extent, | (e Coat was of taffeta. We have scen D 1 tha German and Freneh idea of | this same Callot model in & dull old pink Bt 8 e atal ad; ot "Ry the | 8nd In leaf green, and the coat in partio- Doint of the hat pin (much the same style [Ular has found very ready acceptance. e ke button on the end of fencing folls), | A larg number of the handsome car- Which takes away that element of danger |rlage coats, evening coats, etc., take the {0 the Jong pin, and at the same time is an |form of a draped cape rather than a coat, additional ornament to the hat. While |having no armholes or merely an opening strings” | in the drapery by way of apology for a {o tle the hat under the chin, or the reduc- | sleeve. These garments at their best are tion of the of the hat to admit of the | extremely graceful and 'are made in chif- wearing of short hat pins, and incidentally | fon, tulle, Jace, etamine and almost all of changing the style of the colfture, the only | the soft silks alternative to cutting down the length of | The satin finished crepes which are made the pin to conform to the Chicago alder- |{n {nnumerable weaves are favorite cloak man fdea, as well as the idea of men gen- [ materials and very handsome and service- erally, is the use of patent hat fasteners or | aple cloaks are fashioned from such ma. the knob above referred to. Milirery Trade | ___ Review | REMEDY FOR LONG Caleulated of Mere Man's A Device Point Protest. 1 L i There fs an excuse for the introduction | in the Chicago Board of Aldermen of an ordfnance limiting the length of hat pins now worn by women to hold their hats on their heads. There is an element of danger in the long hat pin, which women, as a rule, do not appreciate, but which men, who are forced Into too close proximity to women wearing up-to-date hats, do appre- clate. And many and loud are the com- (Continusd on Page Fiv Hairdressing E. BURNAN'S BEAUTY (REAMS Used Exclusively. Riley Sisters Studio. Millinery Hair Goods Beauty Massage Manicuring A& ur patrons tell us that the most satisfactor; this sort, that has been {ntroduced in this city. Bastern artists and experts give all treatments. Phone Douglas 8718 for appointment. they receive wervice here of 317 South 16th Street.