Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, March 6, 1910, Page 34

THE OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: MARCH 6, 1910. already spoken. It is trying, but where it ©an b8 worn has a certain absurd attrac- BATS HKY BE BIG OR LITTLE All Shapes, Periods and Materials Are Also Modish, NEW LINES IN THE TURBANS Proad-Brimmed Hats to Be More Than Ordinarily Possible This irada- Sum- mer — Trimmings ally Creeping Back. NEW YORK, March § hats of all perfods, hats of Big hats, little all materials, hats of multitudinous shapes—all these are | fncluded in the new millinery and every- thing points to a season of varlety, orlgin ality and charm In the hat world. There are models which can by no stretch of the fmagination be classified as beautiful, models which push originality to the point of sccentricity and absurdity, but thers are always women who unerringly graviiate toward hats of this type and the miliiners cannot be blamed for preparing the demand, particularly when these sims milliners supply delightful and moderately conservative hats as plentifully as they are supplying them now. The turban has not run its course during the winter and comes to the front in shapes | which are more or less radical modifications of lines popular during ths winter, but In summer materials. A ma- Jority of them, like the winter turbans, are posed low upon the head and the s'ze ranges from the close clinging littls bowl | shaped affair of rough straw simply trimmed by a cluster of flowers, a chou of an ornament of some kind to the elabor creation with huge draped crown of tu or satin Eome of the smartest turban models of the conservative sort are medium rizel draped shapes of the fine supple tull o mest ; IBIS WINGS, straws with merely an aigrette or cluster of flowers or chou posed well toward the back for trimming. In these turbans the cleverness with which tho straw is hind ed and the resulting lines tell tho story, and consequenity the best of these models command & price quite out of proportion to thelr air of chartered simplicity, for they have passed through artist hands and artists in millinery come high. We have ®een most attractive little draped turbans of this class in white with a touch of black and one good model in white yedda has a drapery of black velvet running from the right front across the top to the left back, where it ends under a full feather tuft. The draped turban made entirely from tulle appears in some very attractive forms and either in gne tone or In several shades of one color. Often the tulle is used In moft full folds interwoven and one shade may vell another. A handsome ornament of some sort, usually holding a soaring algrette or plume is likely to be the only trimming for one of these tulle turbans, which in thelr swathing folds suggest an airy version of the Orlental turban_ which is fashioned from an interminable fold of linen. Orfental suggestions lurk also in many ©of the turbans of straw and satin, straw and tulle, ete., the'soft straw being folded closely around the head, while the crown is softly draped. A good model has the soft maize color straw drawn low around the head as one might swathe a wide textlle fold, In front the two ends cross, one disappearing, the other running back on the left side of the crown, where Its fulness flares to fan or ring shape. The draped crown {5 of black satin and a Jeweled ornament holds the straw drapery in the front. More fantastic turban effects are draped of black satin with close low set brim and high full crown and are trimmed merely in big lozenge shaped motifs of white or colored yedda posed round the brim with the drapery emerging from beneath them, Then there are the flower turbans, al- ways lovely, and the turbans with brims of straw and entire crowns of flowers. In the latter class the newest shapes have & plain or draped brim of straw, out of which the flowers seem to be growing, & | flower pot effect which 1s slightly absurd | and yet, grace to the beauty of coloring | and materials, often quaintly charming. | A creation in the deep blue and purplish | violet coloring which is a fancy of the | season had the brim of & fine soft dark blue straw, which was draped slightly and from this deep purple, single, California kind, forming the whole top of the crown. Another model with dark blue brim and & crown of pinkish lavender primroses. Whole turbans of flowers lightly veiled in drapery of tulle or lace and with big full bows of the tulle or lace on the left side, well toward the back or quite in the back, are offered in lovely materials and colorings. La France roses seem well Uked for such turbans as for all trim- ming, and fresh looking turbans in white roses, velled with green tulls and trimmed tn alry bows of the same tulle, will be retreshing looking things for summer days. Of the close fitting bow! shape we have STRAW, VELVET AND ROSES, thvéness, Fancy flat bettom anda no flare at the 1ip, turned and fitting closely around the head, 4 scending almost and just escaping it of some one of Inattractive color of flowers low o have a head | average woman | pretty face and with undeniable smartness, ing and materfals have the ,{ stamp. And bowls, the eysbrow: the lignt soft trim 1t the left side, and covering ridiculous on trying even to the plquant ¥yo it color while we are talking of it may be noted that tions upon this idea— Inverte | @ trifle, are not to be left out of this sea- sor's caleula The shapes are dubbed mushreom by many saleswomen, | #re more accurately described shape, and slight differences in the flare | of the tiny brim or its width in back and | front, respectively, supply variety One sees this little shape most often in the quaint printed cottons, striped cottons, te., which have entered the millinery field and which, though by no me ons ac as pretty, are being shown by all the fashion- able milliners. The Persian designs and colorings in the printed cotton stuffs are favored for this purpose and the material 1s softly pulled over crown and brim and simply trimmed with a scarf or cleon or some odd little cluster of flowers in the colors of the cotton. Other designs follow- ing the antique printed eotton and linen ideas wre used and dainty looking hats for a summer morning are covered with ool buff and white, rose and white, green and white or lavender and white cotton | stutt. Satin-covered crowns combinel with straw brims are another of the somewhat freakish Ideas exploited by authoritative makers, not the delightful turbans of which we have already spoken, with draped crown of black satin and straw brim, but wide-brimmed shapes whose crown Is cov- ered smoothly with satin, while the droop- ing or rolling brim 1s of Leghorn or other braid. One ot the most exclusive miilinery STRAW AND LIBERTY. houses was showing last week a hat of this type with wide Leghorn brim rolling a little at the left front and drooping el where. The bowl-shaped crown was cov- ered smoothly with a mignonette green satin and at the lert sid¢ two long quills. The gladlalus is, by the way, one of the recent additions to the list of artificial tlowers and exceedingly good results are obtained with it where a stiff effect is needed instead of graceful floppiness. The flower makers have been wonderfully sue- cesstul in the color schemes of this flower, though often disregarding nature's recom- | mendations, and one of the best looking dark hats we have seen was a very dark blue braid with rather high crown and moderately wide brim turning up sharply at the left side, Against the crown on this left side were massed gladioll {ia wondertul color scheme of dark blue, &mding through the deep blue purples of the California violet to & pinkish violet, the light tone being but sperkingly Introduced. The long spikes gave much the same lines as wing trim- ming. A model in shape, slightly similar to this gladiolus hat, but with brim roll more toward the front and loss of the cavalier alr, Is sketched here and is capable of many likable variations through change in the flower scheme. The original model Is In & soft green straw of the very fine silky order and the entire crown disappears un- @er lightly massed tea roses and their foliage. The result is really exquisite, the creamy white and yellow and pluk tones . a rather deep bow! of rounded edge, but with upside down to the hape of the neck | In the back, covering the tips of the ears Make bralds with a cluster but comfortable for auto wear roper French other varia- hapes with rounded crown and narrow, drooping brim, flaring but they bowl of the flowers blending delighttully with the green of the follage and the echoing green of the straw, but the same idea could be carried out acceptably in many other materials and coloring. A leghorn with delicate masses of morning glories would be particularly good, and the shape which though plcturesque {s conservative and generally becoming, may be found in almost any of the modish braids. The broad brimmed hat invariably comes to the fore with summer days, though small hats have thelr uses even in midsum- mer, and it seems that these big hats are to be more than ordinarily possible this soason, though they are on the whole tre- mendously plcturesque. Perhaps the pos- sibility lles in the variety. That is a dif- ficult face which cannot be suitably framed in some one of the big hats this summer, A few Louls XVI shapes were seen last summer and more were promised. The promise has been kept and now one finds delectable models labeled Irangonard or some such suggestive title, and ralling up audaclously at the back while drooping over the face In front. Sometimes the roll of the brim lessens toward the front, but does not entirely disappear until it is some- where above the right eyebrow, a faint roll being still retained above the left side of the forehead. The lifting of the brim at the left front makes tho back roll shape much more becoming to some faces than is the all around front droop. The way In which trimmings have been creeping toward the back during the last year has foreshadowed the return of the upturned back brim and we shall doubtless see much more of it In the months to come, with appropriate changes in trim- TULLE TOQUE. VIOLETS AND STRAW. ming arrangements which will quite alter the head silhouette to which we have grown accustomed. The turbans and small hats will shall once more tlons. A black straw Fraggonard pictured on this page was encircled by & band of rose silk finely plaited and cut in points on the upper edge, with little pastiles of the silk applied between the points, and a cluster of blg pink roses trimmed the crown at the back. Another model, whose wide brim rolled up rather more sharply in the back than did the brim of the black and rose model, was of the faintest lllac crin. Deeper lavender velvet ribbon was have back hair revela- |drawn loosely around the crown and held slightly out over the brim at the right front by a delicate pink rose, while at the left back were massed lllacs, shading trom dark to light, and creamy pink roses. Thero Is & noticeable effort to increase the amount of trimming on the modish hat and many of the new models are flower laden, but the designers are unwilling to give up their cult of the unbroken line, even though this winter fad has called forth howls of protest from the manufac- turers of millinery trimmings. A hat of handsome material, original and artistic line and almost no trithming or none at all has been the last word of smartness dur- ing the winter and one can understand that an artist might delight in making such a model, feeling that here she was on her mettle, that in success with such uncom- promising severity lay & touchstone sure 10 differentiate between the true artist and the novice. Given beautiful flowers or plumes, ribbons, etc., happy accident may achieve & charming confection, but acci- dent has nothing to do with the bullding probably follow suit and we/ A “FRAGONARD" HAT OF BLACK STRAW WITH ROSE SILK AND ROSES, A TOQUE OF BLACK AND WHITE STRAW WITH BLACK RIBBON AND A HAT OF ENGLISH EYBELET TRIMMED \, 1.1 BLACK 1’ LLE AND ROSES, up of a successtul untrimmed hat. erring skill {s demanded there. S0, as has been sald before, one can sympathize with the master milliners in their loyaity to this fad, but all the same many workfolk have suffered through this freak of the mode, and it Is to be hoped that not only summer hats, but the win- ter hats that lle beyond will be liberally trimmed. Flowers, tulle, lace, satin, velvet and ribbon, with the irrepressible aigrette and occasional ostrich plumes seem to be hav- ing things their own way In the first sum- mer millinery, and even the spring tailor hats show few of the usual wing, quill and bird effects. The bicorne has not gone out with the winter, though the tricorne has lost caste, and there are many chic and somewhat audacious bicorne models rolling back boldly from the face, set on the head at & knowing angle and flower or feather trimmed. These shapes are made In all | kinds of straw. Some good models are in Leghorn or other supple, fine, light straw, faced with | velvet. Others are in black or dark color Un- " HEADACHE? Naturally, if your scalp is loaded down every day with rolls, puffs, switches, etc. Why not gradually discard all artificial hair and begin simple, easy course of hair culture with ED.PINAUD'S HAIR TONIC ' (LaudeQuinine. ~ Massage it into the scalp every day and watch your hair improve_ {" "Test a bottle of this wonderful French preparation. Bold by dealers everywhere, 50c. and $1.00 per bottle. If you write to our American Offices to-day, we will send you a regular 10c. sample for 5c. PARFUMERIE ED. PINAUD, pept. 23, ED. PINAUD BLDG. ol and has o3 for the. svermys B o or tho aver ; Tk tront sy Tice rimimed: 2 and in some fine soft brald such as crin or chip. These, too, may be faced with velvet, but are more often unfaced. The crown may be of white or light straw with the dark brim or the entire hat made in black, and a favorite method of trimming 18 to Tun a line of flowers wtralght across the top of the crown, be- tween the two close rolling brims, while around the crown may be swathed tulle or satin, or perhape the crown itself may be entirely draped of tulle or satin and only the wide rolling brim of braid. A smart looking white hat of the large bicorne type had a wreath of pink popples across the crown and caught on the brimrat each slde by a knot of satin, one knot of the lightest corsl pink, the other of the deep- est poppy tone. A stunning bicorne in a very dark bluish purple fine straw figures among the sketches and is trimmed in a scarf of light blue with pink roses and little pink lavender flowers for other trimming. Bicornes trimmed in thick, short, up- a long skirt, Te NEW YORK OMEN are often sur- prisedtofind that their figure is so different,so much bet- ter, when they put on a Kabo Corset. It is always noticeable to others. Kabo Corsets are the leaders in style and are remarkable t)t':r the great comfort they give the wearer, Buy a Kabo. Kabo Form Reducing Cor- wets are perfect in comfort and results. Kabo Maternity Supporters are a great blessing to women who expect the Stork. All Kabo goods are proteet! ed by the most libcrfl guar- antee. Kabo Corset Co. Chicago ‘i e with of ‘rarters. 3100 standing ostrich plumes are seen among the summer hats as they have been seen in the winter millinery and the bronze, green, sulphur, gold and light vellow green tones are used on black straw as they were upon black velvet, the straw often being faced with velvet, 80 that the effsct 18 much the same as that of the plume trimmied winter blcornes. Broad trimmed shapes of lace or of broderle Anglaise, rolling more or less at the side, are trimmed in tulle and flowers and wide brims drooping all around have Tull crowns and huge bows of tulle or lace. Or possibly the crown Is of _lowers or is wreathed with flowers and a velling of tulle or lace swathes all. Black and white effects are numerous | and the dark blue, which began a triumphal | vogue in the winter, continues its popular- | ity, though a few colors are more unsatis- factory for a summer hat, because dark {blue straw fades disastrously. Good Side of Ironing. To mere man, uncultured and unashamed, the flatiron seem & thing of evil, observes Success Magazine. Its use renders the house uninhabitable one day out of seven; it distracts woman's attention from the all- fmportant matter of preparing food. Tn shameless conspiracy with starch, it ren- ders clothes uncomfortables, turns napkins into slippery boards, and banishes sicep from beds. Clvilized man is a slave of tho froning board, and the bolled shirt ls tho emblem of his degradation. Now,. the sclentists tell us that froning has an important function as an antiseptic; that the hot fron i one of our leadlng germ killers. This Instrument of torty) may have a temperature of 266 degrees, and that they say, s more than cnough to satisfy the most fastidious bacillus. 1In places where sterililzing devices are not handy, surgical dressings may be Ironed with great advantage, and in a recent experiment clothing which had been worn by diphtheria patients was complotely. dis- infected by the use of a hot iron. Long-suffering man will note with| reyiet that the sclentists have sald nothing’ in defense of starch. There has been no vin- dieation of the bolled shirt. Formerly Hotel Rome Exclusive Gowns, Cloaks, Dresses and Waists Announces that the spring and summer showing is now com~ plete, Cloth, Silk and Linen Gowns, Coats and Suits for reception, street or country club PRICES RANGE: $15.00, $20.00, $25.00, , 1517 Douglas St. $35.00 up comprising to $175.00