Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, March 6, 1910, Page 31

‘THE OMAHA" SUNDAY BEE. VOL. ¥ished with puffs. . XXXIX—NO. 38, OMAHA, SUN - The Trend of S how’n in P ‘ NS —{8pecial Correspondence.]—Some In- teresting developments In gowns, coats, and hats are being made at this present moment, which to my mind certalnly indl- cate the trend of the coming modes and what the general style is to be. They are small changes, but like the little straws show the directions of the winds of fash- fons, and for these one must invariably be on the looke out or else when big and radical changes take place they are too bewlldering to be entirely grasped. The things most noticed now are that skirts are fuller and many of them are flounced and otherwise trimmed most elaborately; that overskirte seem to be an estab- lished fact, and that they are appearing in all sorts of new forms and shapes; that bodices are quite changed, and some are long and pointed, while others are round and are attached to the skirts with large cords, or by several cordings of diffcrent sizes. Fichus have appearel, some lace trimmed, othes tucked or finished with fringe. They are draped on the shoulders, knotted in front, and fastened with some quaintly shaped ornament, or are brought to the line of the walst and then crossed to the back, where they hang In long ends. The full sleeve has come In with its hanging effect just above the wrist, or else one sees elbow sleeves tightly fitted and finished with enormously full gathered ruffles of lace or embroidery. Gowns, even cloth ones, are trimmed with puffs, some- times of the same material, or of something contrasting, ik, chiffon, or lace. This is quite & new note and one which {8 sure to catch the popular taste. Lastly, thers 18 & complete change in the colors to be used this year, and the sad and drab shades of a season ago are to be seen no more. Now everything is as bright as can pos- #ibly be worn, and there are many combinations of colors that are simply fascinating and charming. . In coats and hats one remarks these same changes, although perhaps not in-as marked a manner. The for- mer are short and are as natty as possible. Most are collarless, but they are trimmed with braiding, cords, loops, and huge buttons, and nearly all are béited into the figure, Many have funny little skirts fulled on bes neath these belts, and these also are trimmed or fine The sleeves of these coats are fuller and the regular coat sleeve has entirely disappeared excopt on the severely tailor made costume, where of necessity it must be. Hats are tall and the drooping brim is no more, but they are pleturesque, if anything’ more than ever. The brims are enormously high, and If they are not set well down over the forehead they are put on at such a rakish angle they look dangerous. Most of the crowns are o sories of puffs, velvet, silk, or tulle, and of regular trimming there is little unleas it be some sort of stun- ning buckle, a single flower, or a bow of ribbon of such proportion that those of last seazon seem small by com- parison. All of these changes, simple as many of them are, mean only one thing, and that is that we have finished with the middle age, with its classic lines, its gor- ®eous stufts, its cloths of gold and silver, and all its medimval effects, and have come down to a period which 18 less splendid but certainly more charming, and that is the time of the Louls, both the XV. and the XVL Everything points to this, the manner of making the gowny, thelr trimming and general style, and all the new Gown of Soft Geranivrm Red. iLiberty OatinVerled vn Black Chiffon -This Is Fanproideved gafl':ts and Fine Gold Beads. MODEL" FRoM AGNES materfale, of which one can sometimes get an occasional &limpse, carry out the same idea. * % Of course, 1f one consults the great authorities on this subject, the proverbial sphinx Would have been talka: tive compared with what they have to say. Not one will admit that we are to be dressed & la Louls XV. or Louls XVL, but equally they will not deny that this will be 80, and to my mind it is & case of silence giviag consent. At any rate, there is no fashion more @ttract- tve and more becoming to the ad%grage woman than this, wnd if this coming summer we all to be shepherd- esses, or milkmalds, or court ladies in gay brocades, and wre to wear patches and carry crooks, #0 much the Dbetter. The woman who cannot look her best when garbed in & Louls XVI costume is a hopeless proposition, azd of thess there are certainly not many, and, on the oth hand, 1t 1s safe to predict that there aye scores of Women who bave.s capacity for good Jooks that this particular A/ \ ' ) Robe howing the Brassieve Effect Which Is the Latest Thing 11 Paris—/100EL FRom ZiMMERMAN style of dressgwill bring out until they blossom forth s regular beailties. The new tatlor gowns which Drecoll is just bringing out are plain little costumes, but wonderfully smart and certain to be the mode until well into the summer. They are made of striped cloth in any of the soft neutral shades. The stripes are formed of hair lines of white or some light color, pale blue, green, or even pink, and the material {s like a supple, loosely woven serge. One that I saw had the skirt made with a few little gathers about the walst, just enough to allow it hanging quite straight. About at the line of the knees was a narrow band of the material which drew the skirt in slightly, and at the bottom was another band, six or seven inches wide, and into this the remainder of the Tullness on the wkirt was gathered. L The coat carried out this same idea, for it was a short affair, belted at the waist and finlshed at the edge of s nm'. skirt with & blas band, which ftted tightly DRAMATIC PAGES ONE TO NIGKT. DAY MORNING, MARCH 6, Summer St 1°1S 1910, SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS e —— S %3'3’ &) A Gown. of White Liberty datirs Gmbined with Telle Fmbroidered 1n Fearls and Gold Buxgles MopeL From PAQUIN Tailor> Strit of Dark Blice Serge Trimmed With. Dack Blzre and Gold Braid . p@Essen around the hips and held the fullness in place. There ‘was a little flat braiding on the coat and some large handsome buttons fastened it in front. The sleeves, which were full and large, were brought into deep cuffs finished with buttons and braid, the latter coming up onto the sleeve and finishing in points above the elbow. This model, with several modifications, is one of the most popular ones of the early s on and is being made in silk as well as serge and cloth All the skirts of these have elther gathers, tucks, or & tiny bit of shirring, not enough to be clumsy, but sufficient to give them & stralght appearance as they hang from the waist. To make them more pronounced the band at the bottom is frequently Bo narrow that walking in them is & diMculty, and the free and un- trammeled stride of the athletic American girl would be an impossibllity. Some are not more than two yards in width, but two and & half are considered nearly the proper limit. Little more than this is allowed for the woman of extra flesh, and she must conform to this rule if she wants to be in the fashion. 1 saw another one of nearly this same model, also from Drecoll, which was more dressy, and would make a oharming gown for apring visiting and teas. It was of silie-of & heavy soft quality and leaf green in color. A DREcoLL Feux PHotos — PARS O narrow panel extended down the front and broadened out toward the bottom and continued around the edge of the skirt in a seyen inch band. This was of cloth and of a dark shade of blue that made a splendid con- trast 10 the green shade of the gown. The coat was treated in the same manner, and on these bands of cloth was more embroidery in shaded greens, which was most effective. A double collar of cloth and sflk finished the neck, but the widd cuffs were of the blue cloth only and were embroldered. It was a useful costume and one that would be good In several combinations of colors. * * Although embroidery does not play a large part on many of the spring tallored costumes, it is used, but only In mmall quantities and in & manner that is most effective. 1 saw one dark blue gown, quite severely plain, finished with the usual bias band and made with & short double breasted coat with a narrow belt of the same at the walst. On each shoulder, in a point scross the front, and on the sleeves was some coarse embroid- ery done In wool, the colors being reds, moss green, and & soft yellow. It was a most stunning dress and simple. It is to the theaters that one must look to see the latest offerings in the way of fashions, and at the the- aters nearly all the smart actresses have pronounged for the Louis XV. and Louls XVI. styles. Mile. Sorel, who has the proud distinction of being called the best dressed woman in France, i wearing some lovely gowns in her latest plece at the Theater Francalse. One, per- haps the prettiest of all, was of soft shell pink, which served for a foundation for two exquisite flounces of point d'Argentan lace. These in turn were veiled by a sort of little overdress of chiffon, finishéa all around the edge with 'double puffs of.the same. Over this slip of a dress Mlle. Sorel wears another made of sllk, white brocaded in bouquets of gay flowers, and trimmed about the edge with lace and pearls. This opens in the front and shows the frock heneath It and also the lining, which is of the most adotable shade of apple gréen. The gown is low in the neck, and the sloeves are to the elbow, where they finish with wide and full rufes of lace. The hat worn with this cos- tume 1s a three cornered affair of lace and tulle, all black, and its trimming Is a tiny bow of gold lace and a tassel of gold with pearl ends. * % Another gown of the Louis XVI period, which Mile. Sorel wears, was of pearl gray silk, made with a rather short full skirt, trimmed on its lower edge with a puft of chiffon. Above this were festoons of ribbon flowers in all the delicate colors, with here and there a touch of something brighter in a rose or other flower. The bodice was pointed back and front and quite deep, and beneath this were hip draperies which were made full and caught up at either side. These and the bodice were finished with pufts of chiffon. About the neck of the latter were festoons of the same flowers, which tralled off into almost nothing at the waist. The sleeves were short, with the usual lace frills, and about her wrists and around her throat she wore narrow bands of black velvet. In another play, “La Barricade” the principal ac- tress, Mlle. Careze, wore two charming gowns, both of which would be good style for spring or summer. The first was of pink linen made with quite a narrow skirt, the band at the edge being composed of braiding done in soutache in a deep shade of gray. The short jacket way double breasted and was fastened down almost under the left arm, leaving the entire front of the coat to be cov- ered with embroidery and bralding. The sleeves were large and came just below the elbow, and were finished with frills caught by bands of braiding. The other gown was of mousseline de sole embrofderad tn cachemire colors and made with an overskirt over an under one of plain chiffon, both being white. The upper skirt and bodice were all in one plece, the con- nection being made with rows of shirring done over heavy cords. The corsage was high and about the throat was a ruffle of lace edged with rather wide fringe. This hung partly over the front of the bodice, which was embroidered to match the skirt. L While qn the subject of overskirts I must not forget to mentioh a new model which I saw a day or two ago st Zimmerman's. It was a costume which was being made for a well known singer, the material being ninon, in pink mauve, a charming shade The underskirt had only a wide hem for a finish and over this hung the overskirt, which was composed entirely of tiny plaits, ssed flat so that they would keep their place. It was pointed in front and long, with the back some ches shorter. The bodice was made of the same plaits, but fastened In place, and attached to the skirt by & heavy cord. This gave the effect of belng all in one plece and yet allowed of a perfeot fit. The was a tiny gulmipe of lace and deep ruffies of the sama, and on the front of the bodice and just below the waist line & touch of stunning gold embroidery took atay from any too quiet effect. These tucked, or plaited, overskirts promise to be ons of the noveities of the meason and they are pretty and becoming. They are being made of the same material as the underskirt, of chiffon of the same color, and also of chiffon and lace of a contrasting shade, and worn over & slip of satin or chiffon. One of thelr charms is that they are youthful looking, and as & suggestion for remodeling a somewhat passé costume it is excellent. There are so few ways of making over one's last sea- son's gowns, even when they are practically fresh and %004, that one usually grasps at anything and is de- lighted at the opportunity. All the new bodices are belng made collarless, and the woman with the long slender throat must look to it that her sister with fuller contours and round soft curves does not supplant her in appearance. The high boned collar is to be no more, at least for the present, and in the place the gowns are cut with V necks, or with perfectly round ones that reach just to the throat line. To be worn with these are some lit''s pointed collars finished around the edge with quite wide ruffles of muslin, batiste, or lace, which fit the necs perfectly and are most becoming and fascinating. Some- times the tiny pointed plecs !z = bit of exquisite em- broldery as fine as a cobweb, and it is because of this the frills are usually batiste to make the contrast.