Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, February 27, 1910, Page 36

PLANS FOP SUMMER FROCKS New and Pretty Fabrics of Linen and Cotton, BLOUSES ARE STILL IN DEMAND New Cotton Goods Invading the Prove ince of Linem—Ginghams Mo in Coloring Usu, Effective L YORK, Feb, 26 days when the home seamstress is in de- mand and when women, freed from the persistont soclal demands of the season, have time to consider dress economies and plan the summer outfit. Of course there are women who send even their simplest tub frocks out of the house for making. Sometimes they do it from choice and sometimes they do it from necessity, for the skiiful home seamstress NEW Thess are the PAINTED MOUSSELINE {s a rare bird nowadays and not every one can capture her. Home sewing is a nuis- ance, too, especially for flat dwellers who have no remote sewing room in which they may confine all signs ot the turmoll; but It there are needls-women in the family who can help along With the work, even if they are not equal to the cutting and fit-| ting and the more difficult detalls, the tresh, simple tub frocks, morning frocks, ste, which go so far toward equipping one for & summer season can be obtained more cheaply and satisfactory through the | medium of the home seamstress than in | any other way. Incidentally, home sewing for the average woman will answer very | well as Lenten penance, so one may dove- | tall conscionce and convenlence. The number and varlety of the fnex- | pensive cotton and linen fabrics this season | are amazing and surely never have they | been prettier. We have had much to my; about the new linens before this, but even | in thelr own field linens are being to some | extent rivalled by cottons. | There are many new cotton stuffs suit-| able for tallored effects, somewhat heavy, fem and of surface and design adapted to the purpose. Some of these cotton tafloring materfals are mercerized and others have the dull finish. Durbar cloth 18 one of the best of the mercerized cottons which strongly resemble heavy shantung, or tussor kindergarten cloth, especially de- sirable for children's clothes is used for wdult tatloring too and is a most practical material, the colors belng fast and the fine hair line or check designs near and at- tractive, whils the wearing qualities of the cloth are beyond reproach, Other silks, as well as the pongees, are Imitated in mercerized cottons, and the totton foulards are often charming in et- CHIFFON AND LACE. fect, though we are told that many of them soon lose their luster und look shabby, A substitute for the old favorite sateen, with more body than the cotton foulard but In foulard designs of a very stmple sort, is called brilllante and washes ad- mirably, though the luster fades very slightly in the laundering. This material in & small black and white design should raake admirable hard-service frocks for the elderty woman who wants something cooler than her wool and silk frocks and yet does not care to wear the sheer black and white cottons. Bome of the dotted foulard de- signs In black @nd white are smart and youthtul looking, but the material is hardly %o effective in colors as in the black and white. The ginghams are more effective in col- orings than usual, and though rather strik- ing plaid and stripe designs still prevall in this class of goods the softly blended color schemes rob the material of its spectacular tone, and lovely things may be found in the plain or small design ginghams as well &s in the chambrays. Soft yellow, gold and brown tones enter into many of these ma- [ frocks for hot weather and launder per- color of the material and through them rather wide black ribbons are seen. The ribbon s tied in a large smart bow on the blouse front and in small bows on the sleeves and gives & knowing wir even to a very plain blouse and skirt. Blouses and skirts of handkerchief linen in shirtwaist styls or of other simple lines were popular last summer and are evidently to renew their popularity, They made charmingly fresh ‘and simple 'morning tectly if not overtrimmed, a fault which destroys thelr chic air as well as their practical utility. They do crumple readily and call for frequent pressing and launder- ing, but that will not deter women from laying In supplies of them. The makers of lingerie blouses are serting triumphantly that despite all that has been sald and written against separate blouses within recent years indications all point to an enormous Gemand for these useful articles this season. One woman who speclalizes in hand made lingerie blouses, making them only to order, reports | that she Is having unprecedented orders from her custolers and that other makers report the same conditiops. Perhaps the charms of the new models account for the phenomenon. Setting asido the very elaborate hind embroidered and lace trimmed models, there are many charmipg blouses, hand tucked, finished with some sort of chic hand made frill, fastening conveniently down the front and trimmed but slightly with fine lines of lace tusertion or edge, or with a touch of color. The blouse embroidered in color will bt more popular than ever, but delightful ef- fects are obtained by less expensive means. Little hems of color on frill, collar and cuft may be used, ajd instead of a plain colored terials as into all the summer fabrics, and the blues mre pecullarly good this season. A few days ago we saw in the making & plaid gingham which ran through lovely yellow tones, with white and & mere line of black in the design. This was being made up into & trim little morning frock with a turndown collar ef embroldered white linen and cuffs to mateh, & black cravat and black girdle. , One soes a touch of black upon every- thing, even upor the white cottons and Itnens, and when it is understandingly ap- plied the effect is always excellent, A ¥rench idea which works out well in con- nection with colored tub frocks of a sim- ple sort is the introduction of two long vertical eyelet slits on the chest or bust and similar eyelets on the turn back or plain cuffs of three-quarter or elbow alenves. These slits are buttonholed in the A GOWN OF MOU: CREPE DE CHINB SELIN. batiste or lawn, the designers are using in many instances tiny bands or hems of tigured batiste, dimity, etc. For example one exclusive Fifth avenue house 1s showing a blouse and skirt of handkerchief lineri on the order already described which has for trimming narrow bands of colored dimity. The dots on @ soft blue or pink or yellow ground and the half inch strips used for trimming show just one stripe of these white dots with the colersd ground and margin. This trimming borders the frill, collar and cuffs and runs around the skirt just above the hem. Narrow bias bands of tine stripes In white and color are effective too, and there are various other small designs In white and color which may be successfully pressed into such service, Apropos of diminties, they are likely to be more popular than usual this season, although they always have a conservative popularity. Their, laundering and wearing qualities recommend them to the practical woman, and because of thelr fancy weaves they seem to demand less trimming and elaboration than any other equally sheer and cool plain white stuff. Very simple morning frocks of all white dimity are most satisfactory hot weath, possessions, and the lace stripe dimiti this season suggest more dressy frocks, without added expense and effort In trim ming. But it 18 among the colored dimities that one finds a host of novelties and dls- | tinct' temptation. reproduced in blue and white, roso white, yellow and white, etc., and quaintly flowered and striped designs in color on white ground furnish delectable motifs for simple summer flocks. The sprigged designs in dotted swiss are more than usually good, too, this year, ranging from rather large flower designs and widely spaced large dots to the tinfest sprigs on a ground very thickly sprinkled with pinhead dots. The latter are Indescrib- ably dainty and should find favor, even with the women who shun all flawered muslins as unbecoming, save to slenderness Of the 'silk and cotton materialg we have spoken before. In good quality they are often lovely, and the clinging crepe weav displayed this season are decidedly tractive, as are also the soft hopsac poplin and tussor effects among heavier silk and cotton or mercerized cot ton fabrics. The cotton volles long age ceased to be reckoned among cheap stuffs and th texture and design command ad miration. They are extremely soft and sheer, yet wear well, and one finds most attractive color schemes among them, es pecially in the bordure designs. Voiles in wool and in silk are in high favor, and dlagonal effects are now intro- duced in volles, and in grepes also, but nothing is better style than the fine plain volle velling tigured or chameleon silks. The volle and chiffon velling of foulard which we noted last year and for which o prophesied popularity this year has come into its own, and some of the pret- tiest early models are developed along these lines. Callot has sent out & model in dark blue and ing the the of rose | WITH BANDS OF CHARMEUSE AND A GOWN OF FOULARD DRAPED WITH CHIFFON. chiffon cloth over blue and white foulard with an effective little embroidered yoke of red also veiled in the chiffon and a gulmpe and cuff of hand embroldered batiste. A sketeh of the model is given here, but the frock has been copied and simplified by the importer with good re- sults, and a very sheer volle might be sub- stituted for the chiffon cloth where a frock for harder service Is required, though for that matter & good quasty of chiffon cloth gives excellent service. The other frock fllustrated in the large cut fs another good model for the chiffon or voile over foulard, though the original | model was in mousseline de sole over | self-color charmeuse crepe with trimming of charmeuse bands and a wide galoon in red and black forming a part of the girdle and partly veiled by the mousseline. In a Fifth avenue house a model in dark blue and white foulard and dark biue chiffon has a skirt of the foulard very slightly fulled into the waistband. Over this the chiffon is laid, being let into the waistband with much more fullness than is accorded to the silk. The odd feature of this skirt is that the velling stops part way down the skirt, but instead of being | left free in tunic fashion is caught down in a sloping tunic line to the skirt under & very narrow dark blue and white galoon | scarcely distinguishable from the sllk and | the lower part of the skirt is unveiled. All the soft draped effects Wh | tinue to be the mode re-enforce th ts nothing save the cutting of th shoulder and sleeve in one. The continu ous line, unbroken by armhole calls the Japanese sieeve, but t ately large armhole has disappeared the makers cut and shap the under and underarm teverly that armhole comes up quite close to the There ape, of course, a few soft folds about thé point of union ‘twixt sleeve and bodice, and these must be gracefully di posed or the arrangement falls. A shoi oversiceve Is the usual form which | modifiea Japanese steeve takes, as illus | trated in the & ul little painted mous- seline frock which Is pictured in one of the This model, by the way, Paquin creation, may b expensive materiais with The skirt d has ons to appal a novice and. eve arrangement which one buy excellent patterns, the bodice 1s as simple as it 1s graceful. | T of delightruily | bo: erials 1s enormous, | flowered chiffons and mousseline éxpensive there are the silk and cotton mixtures and the fine cotton voiles of which we have spoken above. No trim- ming Is needed save a little valenciennes on the bodice. The girdle s of lberty and the cocarde of frilled valenciennes, which is an effective note, is shirred on liberty matching the girdle and shows & knot of the liberty in its center, anese in seam, re o exagger- and eve the u o a | sman | though a costly reproduced in le great complica tor can now sketches, success. no pery for soft, sheer, and if the are too number ered m This might be successfully introduced many & summer frock, and are samples of those happy French touches of which it s save | littlo | girdle and lace cocarde are detalls which | upon | / well to make. a note when one runs acrods them. The fichu drapery, falling low over the sleeve, is another device for producing the long shoulder line, but simple as it ap- pears, is rather more difficult to arrange successfully than is the sleeve and shoulder in one plece. It Is not always becoming elther, a short and dumpy walst looking shorter and thicker than ever in such loose folds, but on the right woman this grace- ful drapery is altogether charming, and most artistic results may be obfained with it in the simplest ways. Look, for exampie, at another Paquin frock which appears among the small skotches and was made, as were two of the other models, for & popular French actress to wear in & new play. This fichu frock is of fine, soft plumetls, the sheerest ahd summerlest of white dotted Wngerie stuffs. The skirt, fulled around the walst, has no trimming save two wide ribbons of rose, upon which the skirt fulness fis shirred loosely at the knees and below. The ribbon is run through a puff, if one may so describe it, and ¢inlshes in choux at the left front. | The bodice is of the simplest, a silghtly | full, round affair with Dutch neck finished by & plaited frill of the plumetis and close | sleeves ending below the elbow; but char- cter 15 given to this unpretentious little bodlce by & big fichu or silk mousseline, matching the piuk skirt ribbons, draped low over the shoulders and arms and fall- The foulard dot designs are charmingly |of the Jupanese slceve, which is really Jap- | I08 In long sash ends at the left front from | under a girdie and chou of pink ribbon. The fine sheer laces which are offered In such beauty and profusion this season are arm. | this | PINK SATIN AND TULLE. practically entira bodices for evening and dinner frocks, assoclated with skirts of silk, crepe, eto, the lace reappearing in skirt trimming, or a touch of skirt ma- much used for fichu draperles, forming RASPBERRY CREPE. | terials being added to the lace of the| bodice, 5o that there may be no smallest hint of a separate bodice. These same effects have been popular during the winter, carried out briefly in tulle, but/this is to be a summer of laces, it Indications may be trusted, and enor- mous quantities of chantilly and the fine net top laces are belng sold, where a year | or two ago only bands, motifs and other | flat lace trimmings were In demand. “These flat trimming laces still have their place, | but the fad for lace flouncings and dra- | peries and frills s a newer thing and the manufacturers ars delighted with it There is literally no end to the fantasies executed In black ly. One of the | latest of these which we have seen was a French frock from & noted maker in rose pink mousseline de sole trimmed in fine silver lace. Over this robe was draped an apron of exquisite black chantilly. One can call it nothing but an apron, for there was the square full bib, held up on the draped mousseline bodice by tiny pink roses with silver leaves, and & rounded full apron below the waist line, caught to the pink skirt all around by the little pink and silver rose clusters set at intervals of four or five inches. The broche and faconne brocade effects multiply and are at their best in exquisite one-tone colorings of tho Mghtest and supplest crepe weaves, though there are beautiful things, tao, in the mixed oolor schemes and in other silks. The rank and file of womankind still clings to plain silks, but beautiful French models in the | grleves good people of every denomination OF PLUMETIS. monotone brocades are being shown, models of beautiful and clever drapery with but Iittle trimmings to distract attention from the lovely and ornate materials. RELIGIOUS NOTES. Known as’the bullder of churches and dean of the priests of the diocese of Tren- ton, the Rev. John J. Schandel died at his nome at North Plaintleld, N. J. He was 83 years old, and until & few weeks ag. was in full possession of all his faculties. His death was due to old age. Rabbl A. L. Levy, pastor of a large con- gregation in Chicago, has purchased 35,00 res of farm land in Plerce county, Georgla, to be used In the Jewlsh agri- cultural’ movement. The plan Is to gathe Jews who are dissatistled with conditions in the larger cities and to furnish a whole- some agricultural life for them. B. C. Knapp, who will have charge of the monster School of Methods” to be held in_Cincinnati, February 2i-d, by Sunday school workers, has the distinction of be- ing the only man in the world who holds the position of superintendent of two largy Sunday achools—the Union Park Congregi tional and the First Evangelical, both of Chicago. One of the novel features of the new Fifth Avenue Baptist church, which Is to be bullt on the site of the old structure at 8 West Forty-sixth street, New York, will be' a roof garden. The rear part of the roof of the structure is to be flat, so that It may be used in summer for open alr gatherings. Another novelty will be an acousticon ap- paratus #o placed that persons who aie deaf may hear the services. A short while ago, says Leslle's Weekly, an article appeared in one.of the newspa pers to the effect that the Marble Collegl- ate church of New York was the first church founded In America, and that it daies [romn 1626, “America,” In this case, Included Mex ico and the southern continent. This, how ever, Is not true. Cathedrals were bullt and dloceses were established In South America as early as 1526 The dlocese of San Domingo was founded In 1484 and has had & regular succession of bishops ever since. In the United States there were churches in Florida and New Mexico long before 1600, The Marble Colicgiate church is undoubtediy the oidest church in New York. The Colleglate t 18 pre-amlnayjll) & Dutch one. The earliest settlers in New York founded this church. The Churchman prints an appeal to Epis copalians all over the country to write to thelr senators and repr ntatives in con- gre to support senate bill No. 404, an act relating to the observance of the Sabbath in Washington. It appears, from corres- pondence in the Churchman that Washing- ton is & “wide open town'’ on Sunday, so tar as general business is concerned. Ac- cording to one letter, it is possible to buy anything from a paper of pins to a.cook stove in the capital on the Sabbath. This and they have set out to stop It. The Rev. Dr. Randolph H. McKim, a leading Episco- palian, in asking co-operation from all over the country s of the proposed law “The bill Is only n rest law: it has na re ligions feature whatever and it does not apply to Jews or Beventh Day Adventlsts.” | oth we. Doyle—Phoy do yez hov two thermomyters hanging' ferninst av_yer porch, Boy Boylo—Faith, an’ thot do be an oldee of me own. Wan av thim is to till how hot it is, an’ the other is to till how cold av thim the back ous the Bell Drug Co.. Halnes Drug Cou For tender skins, chapped and chafed by winter weather; for softening and whitening red, rough hands; forwinter rashes, frost= bites, chilblains, itching and burning feet, as well as for reserving, purifying and beautifying the skin, scalp, hair and hands, Cuticura Soap and Cuticura Oingment are absolutely unrivaled. Guaranteed absolutely pure and may be used from the hour, of birth. £0ld throughout the world. harterhouise 8§.: , 10, RI China, Hong d., Toklo: Ko 5 Ad., Cape Town, eto : U S.A | Potter Droig Corg. Sole Props, 138 Calimbus Av 33 page Ouileura Rookiet 490Us Care and Treatment of SKin an & Chem. HAIR REMOVERS ARE DANGEROUS Physicians Say: “Don't Use Poison- The extrav sorupulous mi sational advertisem bean enticed Into ustng thess dan tions with consequent injury (o thy e estimated, but only gueessd at. The preparations above referred to ‘are invariably In (he form of creamy pastes, which are to be mpread upon the ekin o remain uaiil ‘they dry. These contain Sulphide of Barium, an insoluble ohemical, which canaot be dissoived;’ theretors, oan- not be absorbed by the skin. The very fact that YOu are told to lstve thess pusty compounds on the akin until they dry and cake and then lift off with & knifs 1s proof positive that they are not absorbed, It they are, why do they still remain on the skini The most they oan possibly do is to remove the wurface batr, which in consequence will reappear stronger aad thickor after each removal. Thers ia only one logical and sclevtifie” way te remove halr, and that j8 by mesns of & liquid cone taining soluble ingredients which oan. be by the skin. De Mircle, known all the world ovér as the valy real sypertluous’ halr remover, 1y juse susd & preparation. It iv eesily And quickly abe sorbed and after you have used it you wili thers is nothing left on the skin. Tt-loaves the - Skin tree from irritation, and what le'more 16 the polnt, 1t is absolutely non-polsonous; theretore, I Will hot produce ecaema or ©0:00d' pofsoning. R member, No matter what claims afe wmade te contrary, Bo poisonous, pasty compound or worthless concoction can reach the bair root, and we can prove it. Beware of the fake free advertisers and others Don't be decelved by (hem. Better take & doctors mdvice. Do Miracle {s sold by Sherman & McOonnoll Drug Co., 16h_and Dodge; Owl Drug Co., 16th and Harney $ts s dormatologlate. ines. You you try anything Chemical Co., Dept 105, simply saying you want 4 1t will be malled, sealed, at once. should read U Write to the 1906 Park Ave., this booklet Batisfagtion Guaranteed or Money Dack HIS beautiful full 16-inch Ostrich Plame, ta all s, sold clsewhers at §2.5, only 81,00 pre- Fiumes. Taoucy back: MANUFAOTURERS' GUILD Dept. 87 160 Bixth Ave., New York Oity vols & {resh, smooth, satiny complex- fon, and what satisfaction and peace of mind its possession brings. ¢ The lines of age, worry and overwork are render- ed well nigh powerless by Mrs, Nettls HARRISON'S LOLA MONTEZ CREME A wonderful soother, healer and g;omo- tor to & dry, contracted or chapped skin, ~ It is Complexion~ Insurance. Convince yourself of its remarkable power by obtaining a free sample and Book “SECRET OF AND GQOD BEALTY” at ONNE: & n Saveins. Bis., Omana, Owl Drug Co., 16th & MNarney, Omahs Smarting Chilblains Itching, burning frostbites instantly re. ifeved by one applicatirn SHERMAN'S CHILBLAIN CURE. Prics, 250. usually effected with one bottle. By mall t0c. SHERMAN & McCONNELL DRUG CO. OMANA. NEB. Cure éfireka Springs, Arkansa hum 1ght. At the top of the Ozarks, has or dred thousand visitors aunually. De ful winter resort. lure wuter, mountain alr und beautiful scen Visttors with Kidney, Rheumatism, Stomach and Nerve troubles cured. For bookiet, write SECRETARY COMMERCIAL CLUB afe RERTied Madame Josephinc Le Fevre, 1308 Chestnut Si.. Phileda.. Pa. Fold by Myers-Dillon Drux Co., Heaton Drug it is. Drug Co., Cowncll Diulls aba clas ¢ 1