Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, January 16, 1910, Page 23

THE Bracrkx IVZr Er1BROIDIRED Iy SICvEZR. XCESSIVELY—It might be sall aggres- sively—plain and simple in effect ark many of the most expensive gowns this season The gowns shown for wear at the matinée or at home in the afternoon, or for in- formal luncheon and card parties, are shown in many instances made of black volle de soie, open at the throat in a short V shape or with the V filled in with a trans- parent yoke and a high collar. This V shape, by the way, has forged to the ront in the last few weeks ani 15 everywhere used instead of the Dutch neck, which Is decidedly passeé. The walst {8 made in soft surplice folds of the ma- terlal over softer folds of tulle and edged with velvet This mode 1s one of the most popular. But there (s aiso another model that is in great demand, the fu'l bloused walst and the tunic skirt. The sleeves ar: elbow length over longer sleeves of tulle or net, and are also finished with bands of velvet ribbon Pretty gowns, too, are made In white crépe de chine, printed with Paisley .borders in various colorings. These wide borders are decorative and form all the necessary trimming for the gowns, as t can easily bo arranged to outline the hem and also to edge the tnevitable draperics. The bodices of these sowns are designed in many different ways, and look well whan the sleeves are made of the printed border and the corsage itself of the plain erépe. Another idea is to make the upper part of the bodice and the sleeves, as far as the elbow, In the colored fabric. and to use the plain crépe de chine for the lower part of the bodice #0 that by joining it invisibly under draped folds to the skirt it gives the effect of a princes: * The skirts of the newest gowns are trimmed or made with a tunic or double skirt, but not for one moment does the woman who knows how to dress well allow elther trimming or double skirt to interfere with any lnes that will make her look slender. While at present there is every effort being made to bring back full ekirts, the slim silhouette will still be ghosen for ma months by the smartest gowned women, and she who ean successfully combat the newest fal or who can combine them with the slender lines will be the envied one Trimming on skirts ts shown worked out most cle erly. On one moyel the front hreadth was drawn to one side or draped back to show an underskirt of the same material. The underskirt is decorated with touches of hand embroidery, which are repeated on the walst Another model simple enough in line and detail t- ofter 1no puzzling problems to the woman who makos her own hes was of hlack chiffon over white satin with a wide girdle of satin and a blouse composed of embroldered chifton and a drapery of chiffon edged with silk fringe There was never a time when the clever woman cou! | see more opportunities for the utilization of old froc! than she can now. The universal vogue of tunie eff the mingling of different materlals, the Mking for fur bands. metallic laces, and ambroideries se things contribute to the successful refurblsh of frocks slightly, worn or out of style An old satin or gown g would not do for wear again will often serve mirably for a princess robe which is partly velled by a tunic, for it may be pleced out without showing the patchwork if the wo-k 18 neatly done and the of Joining hidden by draperies,. Or perhaps some such old frock, th not avallable for an entira foundation, will supply the lower part of the skirt, whose upper portion is of some other material * * In the coat sults show for afternoon or the more dressy affairs the eoats are sho:t. In ordering a tal lored or a semi-tallored costume for early spring weir it 1s assuredly the part of wisdom to have the coat made moderately short and to have it a trifle mor: frank In the matter of walst curves than has been customary of late. The long, loosely fitted coats on com paratively straight lines have been almost universally OMAHA E timee Gl amd llker Clot/s 2 Mary Fleanor ODonnell —=—%—= Trx PusSIAn INFLUENCE AS SHOWIL IIX A WIITE BROADCLOTH COSTUE, ~® IrE IZnpency 70 FULLER SEIRTS 78 SHOWIL T TFEIIS CHARIIING JlopEL,. ' st Ong or THE NEWEST SHOULDER SCARFS For MATINNEE WEATR. In EMBROIDERED INET WITH HrAavy SIZE FRINGE accenting slenderness and concealing too bundant curves, but there are many who will welcome the return of the shorter coat and of lines a little more trim It is to be hoped, however, that the movement will not swing over to the close fitting, tightly strained bodices and coats we all can remember. No matter how tight fitting its lines, no garment should be strained, but the ordinary dressmaker's idea of a per- fect fitting garment is to make a thing so tight that it will not wrinkle instead of cutting it so perfectly that it will not wrinkle A point to remember in rega~i to thewe new coats is the lining. The white linings which formerly pleased us much are now quite gone out, Either the coat is lined with sllk or satin of the same tint or with a con- trasting one, banana being the leading color. There is a certain satisfaction in the strong colors just now to the front, the bright, full royal blue, the various tones of purple, especially the deep shades with Jepths almost of black fn it and the bloom of th» purple grape on the surface, the chavannese green, ani its true emerald relative. But most captivating is the new blue, which blends so well. with the black and emerges o triumphantly from the glare of the electric light, the blue Mediterranean which, as its name im- plies, reflects the tints of the t!deless seas, that won derful blue which sparkles a gleam of sun or darkons to a purple and indigo in the dull lights. w® ok . Rustling petticoats ‘are returning. Of course these are of taffeta, but the novel ones are in shot effec such as green with heather pink blushing through it, bronze with a purple gleam, or mode with blue or green or gold in its sheen, In half informal blouses the white linen garment tiished with a long double frill down the center of the front s still considered smart They are given soft collars and cuffs, which are usually finished with a hemstitched frill. The cuffs may be rolled back or worn with the frill ffalling over the hand. The most sougnt after materials for these separste blouses, which are worn a great deal at the matinées this season, are those that preserve the lingerie effect, yet are more substan tlal and warm in appearance than linens or lawns. So that a great many models are shown in wuch fabrics as marquisette and volle. One model shown was in white marquisette, with horders of y blue, showing a good sized white dot. At the wider plaited frill at the front there is a row of the dote, and the same is Brought down in two bands on either side, ucks are put in yoke depth and in Lha back continue to the walst in four groups. The shoul- der seam has beading. Aroun] the cuffs the lines of dots. The characteristic note in all these blouses is the combination of fine white linen with embroidery in del- fcate colors. Again, it may be » combination of colors and embroidery, as white and green linen with green embroideries, or white and rose, or white and mauve. The buttons are unique, being of colored crochet, hand- work, and many are oval ingtead of round. These but- tons are v detachable so that they can be taken off when laundered. Or the colors of the buttons may be changed to match the color of the sult worn, ® % None of the smartest shirt walsts is made with the stift collar and cuffs, They il have the collars ani cufts attached, hand embroldered, and with set in flat or other insertings such as Cluny and baby Irish. This, together with the colored crocheted buttons, give them a distinction and make them quite dressy enough for any afterncon oecasion. A number of blouses are shown made up of allover embroideries. Eyelet designs are good in thewe, but the English epen effects are better. The greatest chan of all are seen in the colored tulles, and these will pro- vail until the warm weather comes, The silk tulles have been much abandoned on acoount of thelr frallty. are two