Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 27, 1903, Page 31

- 3 UT I do not like these,”" said the American woman impatiently. *“I want one of the long skirt coat:s." The French modiste shrugged . her fat shoulders deprecatingly. “We have them not, madame." Tt was too true. The American glanced down the long salon and saw dress coats and wraps of every material and color, But whatever their length, whatever their or- namentation, they were all after one model —loose and flowing. The skirt coat is a distinctly American creation. It marks a daring step taken by the American modistes in thus disregarding the dictates of the Parisian arbiters of fashion. The long ekirt coats are becoming to =0 great a variety of figures that the style will have a greater following than ever this winter in this country. It will be followed, however, mostly in the coats of suits. Paris has been too long the teacher to take readily upon herself the attitude of & pupil. Therefore, the imported dress coats will be loose. Perhaps with the idea of making them more acceptable to the American market, these loose coats are more beautiful than ever and more richly trimmed. Color con- trasts are more strongly emphasized in the trimmings, and elaborate appliques of silk or cloth tell the tale of infinite handwork. A delicate gray etamine coat comes half way between the hip and knee, and is lined with pale blue watered silk. Around the neck and down the front runs a three-inch wide band of white and silver passemen- terie. It is a design of white poppies on a silver background, and the poppy leaves are delicately tinted with pink. The sleeves are full, with a decided puff below the elbow. But the fullness is drawn into an oddly- shaped cuff of the passementerie. The coat is closed down the front with silver cord with long tasselled ends. The craze for Oriental fabrics and col- orings seems to be shifting from the dapanese to the Chinese. At least a mem- ber of the “400" has started the tide of fashion in that direction. 8he iz a collector of some taste, and possesses some beautiful €hinese dresses and embroideries. At a recent function she attracted attention by her wrap. It was in reality the loose jacket of a Chinege costume in a rich golden brown with a wealth of hand em- broidery in gold, coral pink, emerald green and dull blue. Although bizarre, the rich mingling of colors and the e'egance of the brown silk made it a strikingly effective wrap. Indian embroideries are being used as well as the Chinese on dress coats and wraps, It is not unusual in a shop which deals in eastern fabrics and curios to find a woman in the upholstery department seeking for bits of embroidery which may be utilized for coat or dress trimming. “Our foreign buyers are making a regular business of hunting up such scarfs,’ the clerk explained. But among all these brilliant color fan- cies, black and white effects hold their own with undiminighed popularity. A black satin-faced broadcioth makes a stylish reception or evening wrap It is cut after one of the new long shoulder effect models, and the yoke extends half way down the arm and forms the cap for the full slee The front and back are shirred to this yoke, to fall in straight folds There is a parrow vest of black velvet, braided in black and silver. The front falls open to show a facing of black velvet, on which wide white crepe ties are drawn through velvet loops. The loose bell-shaped sleeves are shirred Into the yoke caps. They are trimm<d around the bottom by double rows of black and silver braiding. 7The same braiding outlines the oddly-shaped yoke and emphasizes the line of the shoulder. The coat is collarless and the neck is finished with black chenille fringe mixed with silver. The military cape coat is another out- growth of the whim for long shoulder « furnish the dominant note effects. In its simplest form it is a mod- erately loose reefer with shallow shoulder capes. It has a standing collar and neat cuffs on the coat sleeve. Both collar and cuffs are usually trimmed with many rows of braid If the braid is gold or silver the effect is pretty. The buttons are nearly always gilt Indeed, the fancy for gilt buttons {8 growing, so that they are being used on many coats that can by no means lay claim to the title military A pleasing lttle coat with triple shoulder capes partakes of the nature of a yachting jacket. It is in the true shade of yachting blue and has a double row of anchor but- tons down the front. It is collarless and the neck is rounded out into a V. Around the neck and down the front runs a two- inch id of the blue cloth, closely bralded in alternate gilt and turkey red. The same alternate rows of braiding finish the seams and shoulder capes. The sleeves flare at the hand to show a red silk lining, and a cuff effect is given by many alternate rows of the braiding. But many of the military capes are not so pretentious. On many of the capes they One of these more extreme mode of fawn broad- cloth. The cape fal from the shoulders and its sharply pointed back han to the bottom hem of the coat. It is lined with black surah. The lining is displayed where a gilt button turns it back over the shoul- der. The coat has a semi-fitted back and loose fronts, decorated with gilt buttons. It has a high standing collar of the broad- cloth, completely covered by a turnover col- lar of velvet, braided in gold. The sleeves are bell-shaped and trimmed with three drep folds of the broadcloth. The under- sleeve is a plain coat sleeve except that it puffs thtly above the round cuff. The cufl is also of the velvet, braided in gold. For shopping purposes the semi-fitted coats of covert cloth are fashionable. They are the next step to the corset coat and are less trying to many figures, Long Skirt Coats Are Strongly in Vogue A pretty surtout is of the covert cloth, It is in the three-quarter length which has proved so sery able for traveling The back is tight fitting and the fronts three- quarter fitting. The scams are strappcl in corset design. The narrow turnover collar is of golden brown velvet, and the fronts fasten under a fly. The plain coat slecves have the cuffs fastened by pearl buttons For outing coat models the American coatmaker is often constrained to follow the Bnglish tailors. This is not stronge, considering that Kogiand is the one nation whose women are avowedly devotel to sport. One of the English importations s a long coat of brown broadcloth, which would be admirable for automobiling or steamer wear., It is decidedly long, extending to within four inches of the dress hem. 1t has a semi-fitted back and loose fronts. Yet the goods Is so heavy it falls in straight folds and takes away any effect of fullpess The coat is double breasted and the front is ornamented and fastened by double rows of big gilt buttons, which are over an inch in diameter. The coat has no standing collar, but a deep cape collar, This is in reality formed of triple collars of tan and white broad- cloth, fitting smoothly one over the other to give the effect of only one collar. 'I'he sleeves flare and are trimmed around the Mbottom by triple bandings of the tan :nd white broadeloth, giving an effect similar to that obtained in the collar Another traveling “anto” coat is of Scotch tweed, and is made something after a Nor- folk design. 1t is also long. It has a yoke back and front, and deep pleats extend to the bottom hem. A belt passes through these, thus gathering in the fullness at the waist. Carved pearl buttons are used for fastening and decoration. The silk lined hood is especially attractive for steamer wear, HARRIET HAWLEY, Unique Ways of Celebrating Wedding Anniversaries LONG with the revival of old- fashioned ideas in dress, the twentieth century woman is tak- ing up a custom that has gradu- ally fallen into disuse these many years ago—the celebration of wedding an- niversaries. She tas gone back to the be- lief of her grandmother that it is a gocd thing for the wife to make much of the anniversary days in order to keep the heart young and to renew the ties which were formed in the days of courtship. According to the tradition of ages there are fourteen anniversaries to be celebrated. These are: First year, cotton; second year, paper; third year, leather; fifth yvear, wooden; sev- enth year, woolen; tenth year, tin; twelfth year, =ilk and fine linen; fifteenth year, crystal; twentieth year, china; twenty- fifth year, silver; thirtieth year, pearl; fortieth year, ruby; fiftieth year, golden; seventy-fifth year, diamond. The first ten wedding anniversaries give scope for the most variety in the way of entertainment, as many ingenious things ean be planned at a small expense. After the tenth year it is necessary to entertain on a more elabhorate scale. With the revival of this custom comes an innovation for the first anniversary, which is sometimes varied by being called a sugar wedding, and which gives oppor- tunity for much merriment in the way of a candy pull and similar galety. In any event, the form of invitation 1is as follows: 1902. 1903. Mr. and Mrs. George B. Root re- quest the pleasure of your company on Thursday, October 15, at 8 o'clock in the evening. 414 Maple avenue, Detrolt. It goes without saying that the special anniversary must be indicated by the dates at the top. The invitation itself may be written or etched on the material which the anniversary stands for., If the sugar wedding is celebrated in- stead of the cotton on the first anniversary, the invitation may be sent on large candy hearts. A novel idea is to have a Noah's Ark for the centerpiece on the table. This should be made of candy. Any ingenious woman can make it herself without the aid of a caterer, if she will buy a mould the shape of a boat, and make her candy of light brown sugar to give the correct tint, For sails she can dismantle an crdinary child’'s sailboat or wuse common manila paper pasted on flag sticks. The animals may all be made of sugar, molded into shape while the candy is warm, or made in animal molds. Raisins, dried currants, cloves and allspice are excellent accessories for eyes, ears and noses. In lieu of better material for tails, wrapping twine and ghoe strings will do. The ark may rest on & mirror to represent the sca. Near by should be a strip of land ~Mt. Ararat—elevated and rocky, with green things growing. Some of the animals should stand in the boat, others may be on land, but each one should have a ribbon tied about its neck and be attached to the place card of the guest to whom it Is to be given as a souvenir. Candy canes for the men and candy flowers for the women will also make good souvenirs, Candy refreshments in the guise of fish, fruit and vegetables should masquerade for the oceasion in dainty candy and bon bon boxes. One of the prettiest cotton weddings re- cently given was a colonial affair, The in- vitations were etched on white papor cambric and issued according to the usual form. In the lower left corner were the words: “Please come in colonial costume.” As a result the men came attired in cavalier costume and the women in colonial dress fashioned from the various colored paper cambrics, all becomingly slasbed and befrilled. Powdered wigs and quet helped to carry out the idea, which was a decided success, particularly the cotillon in “the wee sma' hours” whea candle burned low. For a paper wedding fancy can run riot with artistic resuits, for one can purchase crepe papers in exquisite shades and with floral designs that rival real flowers them- selves. In spring or summer a cherry blossom fete, a la Japanese, could be carried out nicely and would be most apropriate, For such an affair the invitations should be sent out on small Japanese fans which have cherry blossoms painted on them. The guests may be requested to come in crepe paper kimonas and parasols, or the host, hostess and their waiting maids alone may receive in Japanese costume. If the weather is pleasant, Japanese lanterns may be suspended from the trees about the lawn or the house may be deco rated with lanterns and paper gariands, The mantel and corners should be banded with cherry blossoms made out of crepe paper, and in one corner of the drawing room a bower may be made for the bride and groom. For this the background may be of decorated crepe paper in Japanese design. A large clothes tree should be transformed into a trellis and covered with the cherry blossoms and their leaves. Suspended from the ceiling in this corner should be an immense bonbon bag of pink crepe paper shaped like a Dballoon. The foundation bag may be of stout manila paper, the outside decorated with cherry petals pasted closely together. This bag should be filled with snapping bonbons. At a signal from the hostess each guest is blindfolded and given a small wand, wound with cherry blossoms. He or she is led in the direction of the bag, and is told to whirl around rapidly, then to strike the hag As can be imagined, there are many misdirected blows, but in due time the bag is broken, and the candy distributed, while their mottoes are read amid much merriment. The centerpiece on the table may be of branches of cherry blosgsoms arranged to represent a tree under which stands “Miss Cherryblossom,” a medium sized Japauese doll attired in a dainty kimona. Small bisque Japanese dolls, which may be purchased at any 10-cent store, should have the legs broken off and their bodies fastened on bonbon boxes. These should be dressed in crepe paper kimonas, and stood by each plate for souvenirs. For the leather wedding the invitations should be etched or burned on oblong cards of leather. A burnt design or the monograms of the host and hostess at the top would be most appropriate. The hostess who does pyrography herself has many resources at hind to make a success of her leather wedding. As to the refresh- ments, they may be served in all the leather tones from chamois to chocolate brown. A unique entertainment for the wooden wedding is to make it a Dutch affair. The hostess should receive in a Dutch costume made of crepe paper in a Delft design— wind-mills and all. A Dutch cap rhould be For and About Women Mrs. Edith Maynard has been appointed postmistress at Sheboygan, Wis., a city of 23,000 inhabitants The portrait of the dowager empress of China, now being painted by Miss Kate Augusta Carl, an American artist, is to be {)lm-od on exhibition at St. Louis next year oy the consent of her majesty, who, it is sald, will also send other exhibits, For the first time in the nistory of Co- lumbia university a woman has been di- recvtly appointed to a professorship by the board of trustees. The new pru&lmr is Miss Margaret E. Maitby, Ph, D, a gradu- ate of Barnard, who will be installed at the beginning of the academic year as ad- junct professor of physies. Mrs. Minnie F. Folliett of Cleveland is the only woman banker west of New York. She has recently opened an institution where women can speculate in stocks. All the employes in the office are women, and girls instead of boys will mark the boards. rs. Folllett was the first woman in the real estate business in Cleveland. She also started the Union Investment company and was its manager for about three vears. Mrs. Penelope Morris, who lives on an island oft t‘l;e'%ocnl of Buuturl. %‘(i.eh an exception o ty r sex fu preferring to live t.hm of a hermit. Born on the island, which her father owned, she has spent all her life there. Though 53 years of age, she has both the stature and strength of a man. She is a capital sailor and her boat was bullt entirely by herself. Her nearest neighbors, who live some ten miles away, declare that she is a mutch for any of the men in the vicinity at sailing, fishing, oystering, sheoting or tending cat- tle. hen stormy weather stops outdoor work she knits socks for the fishermen round about her island home. Mrs. Laura Tilden l(u{, who was not long ago admitted to practice law before the supreme court of Colorado, I8 a daughter of Ju Tilden of SBacramento, Cal. She began her course of legal training with her father while yet in her teens. After suc- cessfully passing her examinations she went into practice with her father: In 1894 Miss Tilden organized the Woman's Suf- frage club at SBacramento and was its presi- dent for several years. Though living very quietly, she takes an active interest in everything. She has time to be a member of the Business Woman's club and alse to do some writing. In 1898 Governor Mark- ham made Miss Tilden a notary publie. After her marr her practice was for a suspended. ing that Colorado was more beneficial for her health, she re- moved to Denver a few years ago. made of the same material. An apron of plain white crepe paper will tone down the biue. She should also wear wooden shoes, On entering, the women guests should be given crepe paper Dutch caps and the men Dutch neckties, If natural woodbine is not to be had, artificial vines can be used, and these ¢ m- bined with shavings will be effective for decoration, Lambrequins and portieres fhould be made of shavings, and all the rua- tic chalrs and seats that can be produced should be brought into requisition. At one end of the room a dals may be covered with shavings, and two high- backed Dutch chairs for the host and hos- tess on the dais may have a canopy of shavings, woodbine and crepe paper chrys- anthemums, Wooden mugs should be used for serving the punch and other liquid refreshments, while the punch itself should be sorved from a wooden pail, chopping bow! or “moss-covered bucket.” Wooden knives and forks or chopsticks may be used; and ices should be served in small wooden pails lined with paraffine paper to prevent any possible flavor of wood. Wooden tubs, shoes and piggine may be utilized for jellies, relishes, olives, salted almonds, ete. She who is so for- tunate as to be able to procure birch bark can make pretty things of this for sou- venirs, A skin of benuty is a joy forever. R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER will do Purifes a5 s beautifies ti skin. No other metic Le sure it ls properly made. Accept o counterfeit of siml- lar name. Dr. L. A. Bayre sald to @ lady of the haute ) ‘A8 you ladies will use them, I CREAM" as the least pecommend 'GOURAUL'S Barmful of all the skin preparstions.’’ For sale by all druggists and fancy goods Stetes and Burope. FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop'r. 37 Great Joves St.. N. Y. alers o the United