Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, September 27, 1903, Page 30

EW YORK, Sept %. - The belles and beaux of ancient days are recalled by the new fashions, The lace stock and short cravat of the elghteenth century gallant is with us, also the ribbon flounces, dolman wraps and underslecves of the '60m, Never is falr woman sweeter than when dressed In the prettiness which suggests her grandmamma. 8he is wrapped as well in the cloak of romance, for her folderols hint of many things duels, heartbreaks and even political controversies. When the undersleeve, as we have come to know it, first made it« bow to American boeauty the eivil ar wae waging The women below Masons and Dixon’s line caught the fever, und in time of stress turned covery avallable white rag fo un- dersleever, Old linen sheets wore hrought Into aceount, the good parts shaping the full puff exactly as it is seen today. Mos- quite netting s#trung with colored wool wias used for the wide undersleeves made with a number of tiny frills and falling away from the hare arm For = third #tyle-a mort of headed flounce, which conld be applied at a moment’'s notice to any sleeve—white lnwn was preferred. In time, however, underslecves in this shape weoere scen even in the coarsest long-cloth, and they were admired at that. These three models, with varfiations and much of the charm of thelr long dead period, are with us today, and as in the long ago, each displays the correct under- sleeve finish. Which is to say, that all are mades separate from the costume, so that they may be freshened or changed as of yore, With one bodice three sets of undersleeves are sometimes supplied, in as many @ifferent cuts and materials; but for the flowing sleeve of short cut only some- thing that comes distinctly from under- neath can be used This sleeve, to be the thing. must fasten directly upon the arm, ribbon drawstrings or elastic bands belng used for the pur- pose. If it is a puff, a close cuff band, sometimes very deep and pointing over the hand, holds it at the wrist. The edges of the frilled undersleeve in fine lawns or mulls are trimmed with lace or narrow flowered ribbong, and if tne model is in the shape of o deep, sun-pleated ruffle it may show only a hem, Such pleated styles are called pagoda underslecves, but as their extreme width and the dead white lawn in which they are made give them rather an eccentric appearance, much of their charm ig lost, The true aristocrat in undersleeves must half reveal and hall conceal the purpose for whieh it was created -one of coquetry alone Kven (Cupid would be harmiless with a label, and the same thing holds good with undersleeves and everything else in dress Three smart toilets by a good maker dis- play effects suited to the gentle fascina- tions of undersleeves One in pale brown cloth is perhaps the belle of the group, as the quaint cut of the Eton coat lends itself admirably to the requirements of the quainter arm draperies. With the collar cut in the form of a & op cape with stole fronts, it hange low over the rleeve, which, short, open and slashed at the inner arm, are themselves like capes. The undersieeves ure of white silk muslin, in three frills, whose edges are trimmed with butter- colored luce. Undersleeves (n the same form and material are pretty with edges of narrow ribbon matching the gown tint — yellow with a yellow gown, violet with violet, ete. With such borderings the white sleeves themselves show up delightfully. Under puffe of white handkerchief linen distinguish the sleeves of another street costume, whose mottled tweed shows the famillar green and blue mixture. This striking color combination s again much in favor, and the newest blues shown sep- aritely are in the rich indigo shade here employed. Magaring blue, this tint was onoce culled, and it seemed then an eminently stylish name. But today we must say “in- digo,” though the old words, “frock” and “boay.” which are gems from the same period, we are allowed to retain. Returning to the tweed gown and the remaining model, both of these likewise show fashion's fondness for long shouldered effects. Both are made with collars which extend beyond the shoulder seams, and the spread of sleeves below, of course, in- creascs the drooping look. Mottled wool in gray and black composes the third tollet, which plain gray cloth trims effectively. The bodice of this gown Is also in odd eton form, and plain French lawn composes the “under’ flounces, which In this case are applied to the outside of the sleoves, Despite the fact that fashion's shears are sweeplng toward long-tailed coat cuts, short Jackets still hold their own. The new etons, indeed, are more charming than ever, run- ning to all sorts of plested and slashed de- vices, which hang from yokes covered in turn by the popular deep collar, Whatever trimming s employed upon the Jacket may appear upon the skirt, but many quite fixy Mttle coats may be accomplished by skirts entirely plain. A new skirt model of exceeding becomingness is shown by the blue and green gown already described. A double everskirt look is made at the front and stdes, but the back hangs in a single shaped box pleat. What is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion s .8 STREET SUITS WHOSE WRAPS SUGGEST ANCIENT PRETTINESS. Contrasting trimmings of all sorts are used upon street suits, the most stunning of which are in iren gray with touches of some rich color. A simple device with guite a stately result is to trim the apron of the skirt alone, the decoration llkewise deereas- ing the width of the already narrow breadth, Apropes of this marrow front gore, a clever dressmaker gives a list of the four qualities necessary for a perfect costume: ¥First—Long shoulders. Becond—8leeves big at the bottom. Third-8kirt close at hips and wide at hem. Fourth-—-Narrow apron gore. Oh, for the chance to stir the receipt In magic bowl and bring forth the creation of our dreams! In default of this we will turn to the shop gown—and how perfect. The French importation is more perfect, of course, and now it appears with number- less new charms, among which is Swedish embroidery, done in reds and blues on underwear. Wraps in the charmingly becoming form, but which run the risk of exaggeration, are the short stole capes patterned after the dolman wraps of other days. These are for the moment at a most graceful stage, the stoles dropping (o the knees and which suggest capes in ecut, and if the cape idea is not demonstrated elsewhere it will appear in the collar. Large buttons with drop pendants in gimps of many sorts are used upon capes and coats, and so much is the purely ornamental admired that such decoratiens are imitated in jet and felt braid upon hats. Just here a word about hats, which are once more taking to feathered cruelties, Never, surely, since the #@'s of the last century, when, it scems, milllons of dead warblers decked the head of woman, have such vast numbers of birds been used upon female headgear. For instance, a panne hat in a deep blue has a wreath of tiny blue birds seeming to roost at one side upon a twig. Doves that will never coo again lie flatly side by side upon crowas, thelr dead bills meeting over the upturned brim edge. Owl heads stare stifly from the front or sides of turbans, ustrich feath- ers curl above and below brims, and quills are as thick as the arrows in some wur- rior's quiver. A neat and becoming little sallor for walking use is swathed with a scarf of silk, velvet or panne, and crossed at the crown with two guills. These lYe flatly, as they should do, for If crownms are rising, trimmings have not yel dared the bristling Jines of ancient days. In an old-thme fash- fon plate recently unearthed all the hat flowers stood up like the cowslips in con- trary Mary's garden, while the birds, which lHkewise had dropped upon the mil- linery patch, seemed omly to be there for the purpose of song. Today—perhaps for bhumanitarian rea- sons—the birds and bloom which crewn women's pates are made to look definitely dead. The defunct somgriers appear as |f frened out, and some of the most distinc- tive of the French roses are as flat as scalloped flannel penwipers. Ome, or per- haps two, of these, in faint pink, yellow or white, is frequently used as an under brima decoration for & hat in a contrasting color. When in delicate pink these roses are beauntiful with & pale blue bhat. They are never employed with follage, and many are bigger than any mse that ever dropped from the lap of nature. MARY DEAN. Frills of Fashion Seal rings are said to be the most popular with the slrla just now, but a diamond solitaire adjusted to the right finger still has its attractions. A Denver woman has invented 2 new kind of pin, but the whole problem will never be solved until a pin is invented that will close up at night when it falls on the floor. Stitching is used in profusion on ali the new costumes and stitched straps either of the same material or of silk or velvet in self or contrasting tint or frequentiy em- ployed for trimming. Low-crowned feit hats for everyday wear show pinked ruches of ribbon in navy blue, emerald green and red encircling the crown, the same tints being repeated in the chou that rests under the bhrim. Brown is one of the color leaders of the season, and it is particularly effective if combined with two other shades, ivory be- ing one of them; mushroem, ivery and let- tuce green is a charming combination, and chocolate, ivory and azalea yellow is an- other artistic blending. A charming hat of the toque order is made of ermine and chinchilia. The fiat top of the crown is of the ermine, and around the rim is a scalloped band of ehin- chilla—scallops describe it better than any- thing else—the scallops down, and in the interstices between each there is more er- mine, a black tip in each place Among the prettiest of the new waists are the velveteens. These come in the :oid colors, reds and dark greens and biues, tut also—and these are really the best—in mixed grays, exceedingly pretiy things in soft effects. The buttons, when buttons are used, are of dark steel, or there may Le black, with a design of flowers in steel Bomething new in the way of fur-trimmed house shoes is the Juliette shoe, with its pretily little high heels and tops with scams n the center, cutiing down at the sides that it may be slipped on, and without but- tons or lacings The new styles are of patent leather with a narrow band of fur around the edges In colors there are most brilliant effects, and the deep peoints in which trimmings are formed add to the theatrical effect. There are deep reds, greens, blues, silvers steel and gold effects. In these frequemtly the spangles are good sise, bl‘md dangling, adding to the brilliancy of the effect. They are In deep points for the skirts of gowne and in shorter ones for the bodices. Some of the new chatelaine bags have an the outside a card case, which cpens with a clasp and shows a cenvenient memoran- dum slip and pencil. Hanging from the hook on same of the bags is a little metal change ball, and there are other catches from which may be hung anything desived. Chatelaine bags without the cutside card case have litte powder boxes hanging frem