Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 16, 1903, Page 27

EW YORK, Aug. 14-To the mind prone to idle fancies, late sum- mergclothes have a sentimental air. Kspecially over the muslins and other gausy and perishable textiles may a requiem be sald, for unless they are “renewed,” a season's wear leaves such fabrics in sad condition. The renewing is done at the cleaner's or by the dressmaker herseif, and consists in a slight stiffening with gum arabic water and carefully pressing afrerward Muslin gowns thus rejuvenated come out as good as new, uumless they are obviously soiled. In this case, if the colors stand water, the tximmings are removed and the costume treated to an honest bath at a good French laundry. None but a French laundress can restore a muslin frock to anything like its pristine glory. Considerable manipulation is done with the fingers to promote good effects after ironing, such as lifting the gathers with a coarse needle and rounding out waistbands and armhoies. For doing up a fairly stmple muslin frocks $ is charged, the price mounting with greater elaboratness till it may reach $12. The end of a season requires some little renewal or other, and after the tinkering the wearing possibilities, with almost every garment, take on a new lease. To sublstitute new hat flowers ror faded, wind- blown ones is one of the August dutics of the milliner, while even the smartest dress- makers must descend at this season to renewals of all sorts. One maker of fashionable garments dis- plays lace and ribbon collars for the revival of bodices past their freshest period. These are almost capes in depth, and while suy?ne hang open at the front, others fasten in child-bib fashion down the pack. One such collar of antique lace and ribbon velvet was almost waist deep, and hung with such a sloping simplicity over the shoulders as to suggest a circular cut. The growing fad for snort sacque-like effects gives other opportunities for lace in eking out the wear of a damaged bodice. These dainty little sacques are no more than waist length, and have, with their wide bottoms and loose sleeves, something of a kimona look. Made encirely of lace or embroidery, they form purt of charming house gowns, whose deep skirt flounces, or the band above them, muy be of the same material. e The same models are aso used far bed- room negligees, which are sometimes fash- foned of large cotton handkerchiefs bordered and printed with the gayest colors. These are called “bat” kimones, and a graceful arrangement of them leaves the fronts some inches apart, with narrow rib- bons tying across the chemise bosom. The end of the season finds the most treasured {oilettes used for almost any oceasion. The Idea is to wear them out, and so a threatening day may see women in costumes of garden party loveliness lolling in carriages, or halting for a mo- ment by »me park bench. Great quanti- ties of lace bedeck many of them. Often many different sorts of lace, in widely differing patterns, are disposed over the same gown. Square, diamonds and ovals of one species of web will show fragments and accentuations of other sorts. Fragile insertions Letween longitudinal tucks form one arrangement for the top of a skirt trimmed at the bottom with the stoutest lace. The furv fos Irivh crochet s virtually over, and the entire gowns designed of it have been consigned to the limbo of things too expensive for mortal use. Anyway, these all-<over crochet frocks could never qQuite escape the home made tidy lcok, and one never saw them without a mo- mentary distaste for their inherent home- liness, On the ether hand, laces far less precious, flimsy and almost rag-like in quality, have lent themselves to fairy ef- fects, which the more beautiful crochet could never achleve. In fact, it is only in rather large pat- terns and in odd bodice shape that Irish crochet is really effective. One waist with a design of huge pond lilics, held together by the slenderest threads, seemed divine over its chiffon lining, but ten minutes later a little frivolous body of ecream blonde seemed equally ravishing. Not since the days of the waterfall and the side curl have so many laces of the “blonde” variety been used, and now, to give the appetite a new fillip, the same webs are called by any number of new names. Modern art comes in with the dye- ing, for any nuomber of rich and novel colors are seen in these silky laces, the pearly-white sorts of which continue to trim thin silks, as they used to do long ago. Sven in the disposition of such laces one recognizes the influences of defunct styles, With the close wristband and innumerable gathers, the old puffed undersleeve is seen in them, the upper one, perhaps, spreading over it in the equally old flowing way. Then, upon both evening and day skirts, In thin striped and figured silks, deep edgings will be hung in gathered garlands, the nar- row ribbon or velvet rosettes which loop them exactly matching the old-time ones. The fringes used on voiles and linens are algo revivals of former styles, as well as the slmply gathered walsts, some of which, with their cut-out necks, are only a shade more complicated than the anclent and adored ‘“‘spencer.” These are even worn with flounced taffeta skirts in the o'd way, and very likely the owner of such a get-up —who is generally a person of modest tastes —will have a silk pelerine tippet to top it on cool days. What are we if not reminiscent in fash- ions? The tippets, capes and capelines of long dead belles are with us. 8¢ are the petticoat, whose bouffant foot flounces take the place of the vanished hoopskirt, and the tiny cairiage parasol whose bend at the handle permits of its being turned into a fan on breathless occasions And this brings us to the purely modern parasol, which, if not quite as formidable for coquetry as the tiny sorts, is still a powerful weapon Those designed for car- riage or other dressy use,are frivolous in the extreme, scme of them being mere bou- quets of artificial flowers and gauze. Su- perb effects are seen in black and white, the laces which incrust the frail chiffons and mousselines sometimes | taking the forms of butterflies, swallows and large stemless roses. Or, again, the black em- phasis may be of the slightest description, some tiny cord of chenille or bebe velvet outlining the top and bottom of a flounce and forming a ruche or shaping a lol:u\'d bow at the Terrule. With the smartest toilettes the parasol is plainly a part of the get-up, so carefully Some Timely HE apostle Paul was of the opin- ion and he expressed the opinion forcibly that women should ‘‘keep silence in the church,” but the modern members of the sex ut- terty disregard this admonition. They say the apostle was “‘a crusty old bache- lor” and was not qualified or authorized to lay down laws for their government. At any rate, they refuse to keep silent and many of them have taken the places of men in the pulpits, One of the most successful women preach- ers in this country is Rev. Caroline Bart- lett Crane, pastor of the People's church of Kalamazoo, Mich., for come years, and now pastor of the Unitarian church in Jackson, Mich. She is a western woman whom the late Robert G. Ingersoll called a ‘“remarkable woman of divine enthusi- asm,” and he declared that 1f he lived in Kalamazoo he would join the = People's church, of which she was then pastor. It might be interesting to know something about the creed of a church a man like Ingersoll would have been willing to join. The People’'s church of Kalamazoo has no creed but a “bond of union,” which is as foliows: “Earnestly desiring to 4develop in our- selves and in the world honest, reverent thought; faithfulness to our highest con- ceptions of right-living, the spirit of love and service to our fellow men, and alle- glance to all the interests of merality and religion as interpreted by the growing thought and purest lives of humanity -we join ourselves together, hoping to help one another in all good things and to advance the cause of pure and practical religion in the community, basing ocur union upon no ecreed test, but upon the purpose herein expressed, and welcoming all who wish to join us to help establish truth, righteous- ness and love in the world."” The People's church is one of the finest houses of worship in Kalamazoo and one of the most influential churches. When it was completed the first festive occasion under its roof was a dinner to which were in- vited every man who had had any share in the work of actually building the church. The carpenters, the masons, the hodcar- riers, the plasterers—they and their fami- liee were invited to be the guests of this extremely liberal church and to partake of a banquet spread for them, Mrs. Crane was pastor of the church for ten years and resigned the pasiorate to continue her studies at the Chicago uni- versity. g —-- HE Japanese as 1 people are delightfully deft with their fin- gers, but the women cannot do sewing for Americans. A New York modiste has lcarned this to her sorrow. She was to prepare the cos- tumes for a fancy dress party, and one of the men connected with it conceived the bright idea of employing Japan women to assist 1n the work. The aesigns for the costumes were made by a Japuncse artist, and it would give more atmesphere (o the costumes, he thought, if native women made them. He knew a little Japanese matron who made her own kimonas, and she would be giad to sew for the Americans. In due time she appearcd ot the rooms of the modiste with a sister-in-iaw, another little woman of the same race. They were ready to go to work and there would he no preliminaries but one. They must have their money in advance. The modiste argued. She never pald her workwomen in advance; they would be paid The little brown-faced ladies were gentle but persistent. They must have their meney or they could not come. They got their does it accord in material and trimming Flounced sunshades go with flounced frocks and tucked ones with tucked gowns, but o bright red or green parasol need not neces- sarily match a gown in color. With such brilllant mushrooms to en hance thets complexions or shade the eyes, pretty women go bareheaded about the various resorts, gowns of white duck or black veiling rendering the parasol all the more conspicuous. Even frocks of linen, duck and pigque, if they are very smart, have parasols to match, and they are made 80 that the covers can be taken off and washed. Mussed and tumbled fineries are not smiled upon by Dame Fashion. On the contrary, her favorites show an exag- gerated fastidiousness in all matters of neatness. To look as if you have just come out of a band box is the correct thing. Apropox of this very serious matter, the walking frocks summer travelers are bring- ing back from France are no longer of even touching lengthe They are called costumes “trottoir’” (Iterally, pavement gowns, though meaning street ones), but all escape the street stones by at least two Inches. A skirt shorter than this is n good taste. Neither is it becoming to any but the slimmest and youngest wearers, Dressed in linen, duck and pique frocks of this curtailed description, the fate of the Parisian shopper is a joyous revel compared to our burdened one. Her short not considered to be What is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion skirt, with its careful cut and make, Is another coquetry. Cape collars showing embroidery, lace or tucks lend a touch of elegance to the bodice of the practical little frock, and the flat hat worn with it may reveal numberless others “Such flat hats as are being worn now in Paris,” writes one correspondent. are as big round as an English bath the poriable sort--and with wreaths of roses as huge as coffee saucers mu about the crown. At the back, under tho brim, there are festoons of narrow ribbon velvet hanging in stiff loops Thesc fall over the coiffure, which is as frequently worn low as high, and the front of the chapeau tilts over the nose in the old way."” A word as to this. Paris is not the only place for such large and lowly-bullt cha- peaux All the good shops in this eountry are showing them -complete patterns of the French models down to the velvet festoons at the back. The roses have not yet reached the coffee saucer size, but thevo are many such in the market much re- duced in price, and their arrangement upon a hat is easy White ostrich feathers, in combination with black ribbon velvet, form a KFrench combination also seen here on brim hats of coarse cream panama. One novel shape has the sides of the brim tied basket fash- fon over the crown. MARY DICAN. Tips for Up~to~Date Women money and they came. That was the beginning of a series of tribulations for the modiste. The hour of the little ladies suited them- selves. They came at 8:30 9, 10—any time in the morning they pleased. Then they must remove their small shoes, get out stheir bonbons to nibble as they worked, and make themselves comfortable. As they sewed they chattered incessantly. At noon they made tea. They bruaght their own tea service, and it took them a good hour to heat the water and muake and drink the light-colored liguid they called tea. At § they left. This was too much for the modiste. She really could not have it. Al of her work- women were expected to sew until 6, and the little Japanese ladies must do the same. But they did not. “We must go at 5" they reiterated gently to everything she said, and as soon as their toilets were made they left. Tho toilets, however, required consider- able time. Never were there such prinkers. Iach little lady rouged her cheeks, touched her lips with carmine and darkened her eyes. Then, when they were at last ready to depart, every small boy in the neighbor- hood guthered around tg see them off. It was attogether too much, even if the Japancse women had been good seam- stresces, which they were not. They were able to make women's cos- tumes, but about those for the men they had no idea. The modiste had prepared herself for the work and her ideas were clear and well defined, and she knew how to get work out of the way in a hurry. She could give the Japanese women points as to the designs and cur out a dozen a slow process of measuring and marking. garments to their one. Their cutting was One American workwoman could do three times 08 much sewing as the two Japanese, and do it better. Atmosphere at that price was too expensive, and the little Japanese women, their bonbons, paint boxes and tea things, departed. The modiste is not look- ing for other Oriental needlewomen. S ON'T wash your face too often,” is one beauty's good advice. “Don’t wash It at all,” |Is another's counsel. Don’'t be a goose,” says a third, “but use a little common sense and wash your face twice a day—night and morning." Don't wash it oftener. If cleansing is necessary during the day, use a little cream Waushing the face too fregnently removes the natural oil and gives the skin a withered loolk. Don't use hard water if you value your complexion. The excess of lime in hard water neutralizes the oil in the pores of the =kin, and thus hardens the cuticle. Don't use any but rain water or distilled water. Rain water is, in fact, the only water fit to wash the face with. Many beauties of romance owed their charms to its saving virtues. It keeps the skin soft and velvety, and makes beauty last as long as life itself. Don't be afraid of soap. It is rot the enemy to the complexion that many people consider it. It is infinitely better for the skin than the dirt which will collect in the pores after a warm day. Don't forget, however, to rinse the face with clear-water, after using soap, because you don't want any left on the face to clog the pores. Once a day is quite often enough to use soap Don't use a sponge; It no longer fills a long-felt want on the tollet table, hecause it is apt to become filled with germs poisonous to the skin. UUso a Dbit of antiseptie cloth, or the hands. Don't be afraid of a complexion brush. Used gently, in connection with a toilet cream, it has a wonderful effect in remov- ing the blotchy appearance of the skin Don't dry the face with a rough towel if you want to keep the skin smooth; in- stead, use a fine, damask one, and “dabble” the face with it. This preserves the delicate appearance of the skin. e ARRIAGE would no longer he a failure if labiology were under- stood by the people who now wed blindly, for better or worse. Lab- iology i1s a most important scien- tific study —the study of character by the shape, expression and texture of the lips. It should be the very A B C of love, the key to one's destiny, for with a therough knowledge of lablology no woman will make a mistake in choosing a partner for life," 80 declares Miss Lilllan Kemble of Chi- cago, who is so firm a believer in the signs of the science that she will let them doecide her matrimonial fate, “Among society women the study of lab- fology is rapidiy becoming a fad,"” says Miss Kemble. “It is certainly interesting, to say nothing of instructive. Many a mmn and woman realize to their chagrin what o rarity is a perfect nose, but until I hegan this study it did not occur to me how fow perefet lips there are, “It is simply a revelation. Either the lips are too thick or too thin; some looking like a square cut in the face—a mere porthole for food and an export hole for talk-—whie others appear weak and infantile, “And again Dame Nature has made the lips too severe, angular, contemptuous, bit- ter, hard or too mild, characterless, insipid. And so on through the entire lip category, “I talked with many sclentists and others whose favorite themes are physiognemy. “It seems that two fleshy folds surround- ing the orifice of the mouth-or, In less technical terms the lips—are ineffaccably impressed with marks of character and may * be read with the same ease and intercst as the latest book by one initiated iato the mysteries of the lip language. These, for instance, are the infallible signs for youths to study if they would shun an unhappy alllance and find the road to connubial bliss, “If the lips of your lady love berder a large and generous mouth, you may rest assured that she is warm hearted and uf- fectionate, and as a wife would be gentle, loving and truthful. If this generosity of form is too pronounced the possesser is of coarse nature and would make an undesir- able malte. “A small mouth, with tightly drawn lips Indicates great self-control, with occasional bursts of affection and ill temper—not & bad combination, as occasfonal clouds often make sunshine all the brighter. “A desirable outline s formed in the lips that develop thelr fullness in the center, which is the sign of refined love."” Insures Pure,Soft, White Skin and a Beautiful Complexion, cures Eczema and Tetter. Abe solutely snd Permanently 1 rl:“l’?m s, Bodness, Sune spots ullo ‘l‘;fl. U-: "'_lol'h fect -:Ln l:?mnnd- " Sold by Druggists, or may be ordered divect. Royale, §1 per bottie, e paild. Derma-Royale .‘l-p. 25 cem by mail, Both in one package, 1.5, express pald, \Portraits and Testimonials sent on vegquest, , One Bottle FREE to Azont