Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, August 16, 1903, Page 26

FIRST HINT OF BT as oysters are avoided during the four months lacking R's, so seaside resorts are deserted by maost of the fashionable world by the middie of August. Both are unwritten laws, the result of sad experi- ence. By the end of the month the most ardent lover of the sea is glad to turn mountalnward and rejoice in the breath of fall which comes first to the higher alti- tudes. And with him rejoice the mountain hotel keeper and the importer anxious to begin his fall trade. The first demand for fall styles and tex- tures comes with these mountain months of August, September and October. The lace summer hats and berufled summer frocks seem out of place in an atmosphere exhila- rated by the tinge of the first frosts. What If the sun is still high in the heavens and the cities in the plain lie sweltering In the heat? §all has come to the mountains, and fall styles are paramount there. The hats for mountain wear are notice- ably stmple. Mountain climbing may mean scrambles through closely interlaced copses of young trees or through thorney black- berry tangles. Airy, fairy millinery would be sadly out of place. Instead, there are the Maen and duck outing hats, felt Alpine hats, and neat. turbans in rough straw ef- fecte. Many of them are vell-trimmed- not, however, with the veils flying in the wind, but lying in a =oft rolt around the crown. Sk scarfs make a favorite trimming. Bometimes they are covered with dotted veiling, and the effect is pretty. The pret- tiest searfs for these outing hats are of plaid velling or chiffon. They are imported fabrics, and therefore expensive. But they are charming for the girl who has not to consider a slender purse. In dull browns, interwoven with stripes of vivid scarlet, green and blue, they give a touch of piquancy to the most somber costume. The fancy for bright blue fabrics has extended to the world of veilling, and blue veils are secn on ewery side. The green veils that floated in the wind last scason only appear to match some particular cos- tume. *Veils made to order to match any costume” is a common sign in fashionable millinery pariors Simple fall turbans come as a reaction against the flaring hrims of summertime. The straw shapes will no doubt be worn until late in the season, but felts are already appearing. A chie brown felt turban has for its trim- ming areund the rolling brim two strands of browa and white braid, knotted at in- tervals, and finished at the back by white wings, which extend over the hair. Feather aigrettes and wings will be freely used on the fall walking hats, Golf sweaters, juckets and vests are ideal for ‘moustain wear. If a girl stil clings to her summer shirt waists, they will ward off cold when used in the early morn'ng and evening as an outer wrap. Fall sup- plies of all three are already on the coun- ters of the sporting goods departments of the great shops. The Freach golf jackets with silk sleeves will again be used. But the knitted and crocheted golf jackets, in bright greens and crimsons, are even more fashionable. The imported ones are in the cable pattern and have the neck slightly ‘gest autumn days, FALL IN FELT TURBAN. rounded out and finished by a croche‘el band. They have no buttons, teing in- visibly hooked down the front. Those of domesyc maunufacture have buttons, a single or a double row down the front, in pearl or gilt. They ales have standing collars, something like those on the sweat- ers, The golf vests are also crocheted In a basket weave. They are liberally adarned with buttons and have distracting vest pockets. They come in green, red, white and mixed stripes of white and lavender, red or green. They are very pretty and can be worn to give welght to the linen coat suits, The red ones seem most suited to fall and mountain wear, for though the fad for red has waned during the hot months, the first breath of frost brings It back again. A mountain costume is hardly complete if it lacks some touch of this cheery color. Perhaps it is given by the parasol, or rather the rain-and-shine umbrella. This is most suitable for the mountains, for Frills of Fashion Jade is one of the new greens. Mother of pearl embroidery and passe- menteries are among the most popular trimmings for evening frocks. The autumn hats show a decided lean- ing toward high crowns and broad brims, and ostrich plumes both long and short promise to have great favor. Colored laces are being vigorously pushed by the manufactures and colored wool or fibre laces in maltese designs are upon many of the early model gowns. The butterflies that appear In “so many things in the way of ornaments are charm- ing in shell, and are mounted on long or medium length ping of sheil. Many new fancy ribbons are being shown in rich and effective colorings that sug- Panne and astrakhan ribbons are particularly in evidegpce, Unless signs fail, furs will be excessively in demand during the coming season, and ail the popular furs of last winter will hold their place. The pelerine will be the new feature tu furs, sueceeding the stole, which was last year's fad. A charming hat in lavender tones is of white lace, with the cdge finished with folds chiffon. Set upon the hat are ap- plicatfons of embroidery in pale lavender and a chiffon veil in a delicate shade of lavender is draped around it A guaint little flowered silk mull gown made over a white silk slip is princess in effect, is fitted in at the waist line with small tucks, set in perpendicularly, and running from two or three inches below the waist to that distance above. Old-fashioned neckerchiefs in fine em- broidered mulle or lawn are among the accessories that may be brought ready made. They are to be folded in surplice fashien and, without the fussiness of the frilled fichu, are a quaint and welcome change from the almost inevitable cape collur. The Parisian woman Is wearing colored shoes in all hues to match her frocks, or, in company with corresponding belts and sunshades, to give a dash of color to a neutral costume, but Americans, while ac- cepting colored footwear, are more oon- servative. A quaint little automobile hat is small, of white straw, trimmed with blue and white checked ribbon. This is carrfed around the crown and tied in a bow in the front, forms the deep curtain at the back, and ties under tha chin. ‘The blue is of a pale shade, and in the check has a pleasing old-fashioned ook, A RED GOLF SWEATER FOR MOUNTAIN WEAR. we on long tramps, 8 & protection sgafivst erally left plain, and the pleats stitched the sun or a sudden thunder storm. It is trimmed with a border im the sume or a contrasting shade of narrow rilk folds. The hint of red may come from the em- broidered dot on the white linen string tie or belt. These washable tie sets are very dainty, and can be used with either a fall or summer costume. Since Worth has decided that leather belts in soft suedes to match the costume are ‘‘correct,”” the mountain girl may prefer to wear a red leather belt. It will have a h#tness buckle, either of silver or covered with the red leather. ‘The fall golf skirts show a tendency to be tight fitting, and, as they are worn over short, scant underskirtings, they cling to the figure and have little flare around the bottom, If boxpleated, the yoke is gen- For and About Women BSome of the newest readymade cape col- fars are, however, guite individual and ehic. They are in fine batiste or lawn, buttonholed in scallops around the edge and embroldered by hand in delicate trail- ing vines and gariunds. Embroidered in or they give a picturesque touch to an otherwise all-white frock. Mrs. Lewis Bears of Huntsville, Mo., is not afraid of a mouse or even a snake—un- til the danger ia past. The other day she reachad up into the pantry and touched something cold and clammy. CHmbing on a chair, she discovered a good-sized black snake asleep on a large platter, Mrs. Sears picked up the dish and threw the reptile out into the yard, where she killed it with a broom handle. Then she screamed and fainted. The strenuous life at Nev port has praven too much for some of the young women who endeavored to keep up with the giddy whirl. Some of them began to show signs of being nearly “all in"” and physicians who were consuted have ordered the wearled girls to quieter resorts. Newport life this summer has been too exacting for all but such as are of unusually good physique, social dissipation enough for an entire winter being crowded into a few weeks Nowhere is the womun doctor more in evi- dence than in Russia. Ameng the wild and scattered population of t' ‘'mmense coun- try there Is an inexhuis ible field for women as doctors and teache:s and it Is the knowledge of this fact which has disarmed the oppcsition to their golng through uni- versities. In 1897 Russia had %97 women doc tors and the number constantly increases In this profession Russian women have made a distinguished name. They have enormous practices in the great towns and are largely -employed by the municipalities Miss Horace Smith, who died recently at Brighton, England, had memories literary and otherwise which went back a very long way iIndeed. She was a remarkable link with the past. The Atheneum says of her: “Her grandfather had bhunted with Louls XV, her uncle had met Dr. Johnson and she herself was probably the last person living who remembered Keats, having seen, as a child, the poet in her father's garden at Fulham. Although she steadfastiy de- clined to be Interviewed or to put her recol- lections into print, she was famous among her friends for her store of anecdotes and animated flow of conversation. To her father. of *Refected Addresses’ fame, she owed. her youthful acquaimtance with many of the celebrities of the time and she in- herited his warm friendship with Thack- eray, with whose daughter, Mrs. Ritchie, she was intimate to the last.” down to within six inches or =0 of the bottom. The same cffect is often produced by the application of stitched bands, set on for the whole part of the length of the Bore geams, Plalds will have some use this fall, both for separate skirts and whole costumes, Yet the shot effects will be the most fash- fonable. Brown mixtures and gray, green and black and white, will be the favorite combinations. As In other years, the first fall suits are strictly tailor made affairs. They are a re- lief to the eye after the over-ornamentation of the summer frocks. The long skirt coats seem to have settled themeselves for the winter, but they have lost even the pre- tense of stole or shoulder cape. The seams are generally strapped in corset fashion. They are single-breasted, with hip and breast pockets, and the “V" neck is sharply pointed and finished with a narrow coat collar of the material or velvet. The extremely plain, up-and-down effect of these tailor made suits is not becoming to everyone, so that the box-pleated coats, which suit undeveloped figures, will still be used. The latest of these have immensely long skirt coats, extending almost to the hem of the skirt. They are fastened down the front as far as the waist line by silk cord loopings over a double row of but- tons These buttons are a decidedly strik- ing feature of the suit. A suit of gray-blue mixture has loopings of gray silk cord and cut silver buttons. The price of the buttons would exceed that of the material, A charming red coat, which would be just the thing for coaching wear in the mountains, is loose and ex- tends almost to the knee. It has triple shoulder capes faced with silk of exactly the same shade, and is fastened down the front by loopings of red silk cord over mosaic buttons, These latter are really beautiful, with a conventional design in green on a dull red back ground. HARRIET HAWLEY, A skin of beauty is-a fuy forever, R. T. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, OR MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER the Bemoves Tan, Pimples, Freckica, Molh Patches, Rash and Skio Dis- and every blemish oa beawty, < and defles detection, / It has good the test Purifies as well a8 beautifies skin. No ether cos- metle will 4o n made. countertelt lar wame. Dr. recommend “GOUVRAUD'S CREAN" as ::lrnnu of all the skin mumuu"uh‘;.-:;: [ druggiats and tancy goods Sealars it Slates and Ewacpe. - FERD. T. HOPKIXNS, Prop's, I8 Great Jones B, N K.