Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 21, 1903, Page 27

< What is Going On in Woman’s World of Fashion EW YORK, June 19.-The styles presented everywhere for yacht. ing use strike the observing eye ag much simpler than those worn last summer. On the other hand, bathing clothes are more elaborate than ever, which is saying a great deal, con- sidering what fixy, costly things they have been for two scasons or more. Some lately imported “sea toilettes'™ as both yachting and bathmng clothes are called by the French, strike a happy me dium between too much extravagance and too much simplicity. True, bathing suits are short enough to show trousers which are unmistakably trousers--those left loosa beiow the knee have even a pantaletie look; and equally true it is that the first salt breeze would deplorably wilt the materials used for some of the yachting frocks. But the summer girl must get used to bathing trousers, for after all it is more modest for them to be seen than not. And as for the yachting frocks in flimsy materials, let her merely follow their lines and she wil) be all right. It is quite evident from a few of the tex- tures uscd that French women sometimes take their sailing trips on dry land, so to speak. In form the gowns are perfect, the skirts hanging with correet plainness and the blouse bodices suggesting just enough of the jolly mariner not to seem exaggera- tions But white and Jelicately tinted veil- ings, exquisitely fine, are geen, and lin ducks and piques far too f i Into these are also semetimes inserted the heavy laces and embroideries of the sea- sori, but though the sensible maid will rebel at such frivolities, she cannot but admit that in form the French yachting frock is a dainty charmer. Rules laid down by good makers for yachling wear forbid flounced skirts and elaborate sleeves. The skirt trimming may be put on with a flounce suggestion, but the model is gored to the hem and often weighted there with lead. As further pro- tection against the winds, yachting skirts are also narrower than those worn in the street, and some of the kilted designs fit without a gather down to the flare point. The prevailing sleeve of the summer, the Inverted mutton-leg, is more seen than any other, hut its size Is always kept within sensible bounds. For the rest, sailor collars of all sorts are seen, and almost every bodice fastens at the front with a soft nautical tie. The low canvas sheoes, which are preferred fn white, have rubber soles, and the pop- ular cap so nearly resembles the headpiece worn by man for the same service that they cannot be told apart. The blue flannel and white pique com- bination of the masculine sailor is also imitated in some of the costumes, with the difference that the feminine coat gencrally sports brass buttons of the brightest hue. The pique skirt has strapped seams and a heavily stitched deep hem. A coarse wool buntisg, introducing the uneven weave of the flag quality, is em- ployed for some of the most serviceable frocks. Bands, belts and collars and cuffs in plain color provide neat and effective ornamentation, and in the way of color effects red and white is a combination much seen. Some all red bunting gowns are aiso observed, but dark blue is more frequently noticed than any other color, and the old white trimmings continue to embellish it, A number of yachting fr(x‘k'& made for the opening of the season, which is gen- erally in July, show the predilection of the smart world for this time-honored com- bination. Gowns in flannel, duck, bunting, pique and linen all present the homely blue and white effect, and designs were so simple that it looked as if the fashionable world must think anything else vulgar. It is astonishing how unpretentious smart women often are in the clothes designed for all outing occasions. 8o when one tomes across a frivolous yachting frock, furbelowed and foolish to the top notch, the mind pictures with it a pair of uneasy gea legs. Only a novice in marine pleasures would buy such a gown, or expect to be happy in it, for rolling decks, salt sprays and brisk winds require toggery that will stand wear. The under rigging necessary for correct yachting gowns also leans to the practical, for more bloomers are worn than petticoats and no attempt at ornamenting them i made. Wash silks, either in the color of the costume or in black, are used for them. Pretty and novel vachting deiails are seen in belts, stockings and caps, which last are 8oft wool 1ms"” on the beret order. The belts are of white and colored ducks and piques, with semetimes a eo irasting band, in plain or spotted stuff, down the middle, They e extremely narrow at the tongue portion and gilt hary a pretty tinish s buckles give them The steekings—to put it mildly—are lond. With the most brilliant colors there are pronounced piebald effects in pattern, open worked insteps and elaborate clockings, all of which magnificently make up for the plain frock worn with them. The sex is nothing if not inconsistent, hut when it is eonsidered that faney stockings do not Interfere with the business in hand the present lapse may be explained. I the surface of things there is below ally a Fid reason for woman’'s madness; and inci- dentally the rest of this reasc is that the gay stockings are really fetching Going from this dry sea pleasuring to the wet sort, one feels inclined (o marvel at the frivolity of the fashionable bathing girl. Her salt dips will be taken in nothing else than silk, satin and brilllantine of the gayest pattern Tre little suits which these rich textures realize are also most elaborately made, ribbon lacings, stitched bands and tucks and shirrings knocking all preconceived notions of salt water exig- encies on the head, The old blue flannel bathing suit of baggy make and shrinking tend y 18 ¢ n=picudus by its absence - the sug , with their short puff smartly flared skirts, stage shirt waiast gowns or French doll dressea. The blousing bodices, which are as long waisted as those for street wear, are girdled tautly into corsetted walsts by gay wash belts. Many bodices are high in the neck, but the saflor collars of others roll away from an open V of modest depth, or the neck may be cut out round or square. In no case is the bathing decolletage very low, though the sleeves are invariably the shortest puffs, and the skirts are of the most abbreviated description, for here, as well as against stockings which imitate Some Timely OT satisfied with her own rest- cures, the up-to-date woman has ‘w maodes leeves and taken to resting her cloth it works like a charm. ing induces shabbiness in coats and gowns more than the lines and wrinkles which show that they have been worn and reworn. Sitting creases angd the walking creases make a garment old before it has done half its duty. Men know this better than women. A man ig well dressed with a small wardrobe, because every week or so he makes a change of clcthes, sends the suit he has been wearing to the tallor, and never by any chance allows a wrinkle to become fixed in his garments. Not all of woman’'s frecks can go to the tailor; though, with the inexpensive tailor service now to be had, she will do well to send her street frocks frequently to Le brushed and pressed. But she can manage to change her clothes often enough to give them all an entire rest. Many sermons have been vreached on this point concern- irg shoes. Kveryone knows how necessary it is to change them frequently and put those not in use away on shoc trees to pre- vent the formation of wrinkies that become permantent more quickly in leather than, in dress goods. But it is quite as important to treat coats and frocks in the same way. The hest rest is given by putting both skirt and bodic2 in long hoxes or bureau drawers, where they can lie in light folds. If sleeves and trimmings are filled out with issue paper, 8o much the better. Coat and skirt hangers can be had at reasonable prices. They economize room in a clothes press and skirts and coats placed on them lose in a few days the lines where they have conformed to the figurc. These lines not only spoil the fresh appearance of a frock, but the material wears around them and loses color in streaks. Wash frocks should always be put away in trunks, drawers or boxes, whether they have been worn or not, for in hanging they grow stringy, are more easily affected by dampness and lose their freshness before they are worn. A pretty girl with more (aste than money always puts away her ribbons and laces to rest. This is not s0 much to freshen them, though they are improved by it, as to have something which is new to her and her friends when she rewears them after their “rest-cure.” (ORCH parties aure now the vogzue A clever hostess recently rent out invitations for a “Polly Piper” party. The cards gave no clue to the nature of the affair and each guest was left to wonder what a “Polly Piper’”’ might te When the guests assembled on the wide porch they found it set with low tables and chairs of all sorts and conditions. Gay cushions promised comfort, plants and hanging baskets offered sweetness, but no “Polly Piper" was in evidence. On the small tables an array of clay pipes was spread, all new and sweet- smelling. Were the fair gue invited to a smoker? The appearance of the hostess, loaded down with sheaves of tissue and crepe paper of every imaginable shade, with scissors and with mucilage bottles, relieved their perplexity When she an- nounced that each guest raust make her own “Polly Piper" there was an instant babble of questions and exclamations Each guest was given a pipe, with in- structions that she was to dress it within forty-five minutes, at the end of which time prizes were to be awarded to the two whose work should be judged best. ch one might select three strips of paper from which to fashion a costume. To mmake the doll complete each one must have a face drawn also " The guests went imunediately to work, socks, the line of taste is drawn. Some re- gard for propricty -as the beach signs put it--is the first and only commandment for bathing clothes A number of the best shops are showing bathing suits patterned accurately after the French models, all of which allow the trous. to appear below the edge of the skirt The American method of having them hidden by the skirt 1s considered on the other side a little shocking, for this graphic ¥ h word, which has heen added to the French voeabulary, is now frequently used against us With the imported suits go gay silk handkerchiefs or olled slik caps for the head, or mayhe coquettish pique hats which are not expected to take the watery dip. The strings of these tle child-fashion under the chin rd the wearer of such a pretty headpicee will doubtless content her self with moerely wetting her equally pretty ankles A black satin suit with scarlet bands presents one stylish scheme of color, and a blue and white checked brilllantine with black ribbon lacings another. More than one of these suits is provided with a oril liantly tinted 1sh of silk, satin, pouge~ or brilliantine, which encircles the waist, knots at the left side and there falls in long ends. One smart litle brilliantine frock, whose bodice sported a tucked shirt yoke, displayed this sash In spotted red and white silk The head handkerchief matched and plain scarlet stockings wore advised for the get-up A word further as to searlet bathing stockings- everybody may not sport them however stylish they are has som Low a magaifying quality, so thick ank! s La bLetter « to black, which is alwiys “slimming” in tendency. Cotton stockings of moderate weight are better than ( thin gauze lisle ones more fregquently worn For the trip from the bath house to the water, I'rench makers supply long cloiks of soft flannel and strap sandals of canvas or leather, which are delightful coquetries in the J In 18 them it shovid be remembered that cloak and sandals must mateh in color. The clumsy bathing stockings provided with cork soles are worn only by Aunt Amandas and Cousin Sallies from Podunk RBathing suits for children follow the oll aensible lines and simple textures U'n shrinkable blue flannels with white braid trimmings are used for both sexes, with a mixture of cotton and wool in a mottled weav®, by way of a new material But flannel is the favorite texture, and bluo and white the popular combination as evor, MARY DIEAN, Tips for Up~to~-Date Women selecting their papers with reference of the character whic their particular dH! was to assume. Gray and white pate s were chosen for the doll which was to doa Quaker garb, navy blue and red for the Salvation Army girl, blue and white for the yachting costume, while the gayest colors on the table went to rig out a veritable Topsy. Needles, thread and thimbles wcre furnished and paste for those who preferred to use it After selecting Ler materials eich guest was expected to seat herself as far as possible from the others, in order to give undivided attention to her own doll. At first it seemed impoasible to do anything with the awkward pipes, but by degrees the interest quickened and one after an- other became absorbed in her work. At the end of the time allowed the dolls were required to be handed in for criticism. There were babies in long dre:ses, ballet girls in short full skirts, summer girls with frou frous of drapery, full ruffs of softly crumpled paper and picture hats, nurse maids—indeed all kinds of dolls were rep- resented. But the first. prize was t> “Little Red Riding Hood,"” whose vnxl was not only well made, but whose fic» had been drawn upon paper and fastened over the open end of the pipe2, doing away with the little “knob’ nese which every other doll possessed. She also had been made complete with paper arms. The sec- ond prize was awarded to a Chines» man- darin, whose Oriental robes were well simulated. The award of prizes was followed by the serving of luncheon and the affiur was voted one of the most successful of the scason. Ao IN'T think that you can lay the cornerstone of beauty and health unless the laws of hygiene are observed. Don’'t be afraid of fresh air. Not fresh air, but the lack of it is the cause of a sallow skin and dull eyes. Don't be afraid to take deep breaths from an crroneous idea that the lungs are favored in this way. Conscious, deep breathing practiced dzily makes strong lungs and clear complexions. Don’'t earry your worries to hed with you if you want to have a smooth skin and attractive "expression. Don't take your beauty sleep after 6 In the morning, but before 11 at night. Don't sleep in garn:ents worn during the day. Don’t wash your face before going out in the sun or wind Don't go out in the sun sans hat, sans vell, sans gloves, unless you want the complexion of a North American Indian. Don't use the complexion brush with a heavy hand. Don’t put the complexion brush away without sealding it Don't put sticky cold creams on the face Don't wear a facemask at night Your skin needs all the air it can get Don't (ry to doctor a miserahle com- plexion with medicine taken by the quart. Bubstitute exere afr and wholesome food for drugs, and the complexion will take care of itself Frills of Fashion Quaint little stickpins have stone arrow- heads for heads Some of the new wide in front with a bow of the buckles Exceedingly pretty babies' caps made en- tirely of Mexican w work are run with narrow ribhons in eolors A pretty hat trimmed with deep pink rose has a delicate pink veil worn with it, and a hat with deep red roses is shown with a veil of delicate blue A faddish handkerchief has a littie pocket in one corver, with a buttoned flap, to ither belts fasten leather instead of hold car fare The heavy silk or linen ones are sometimes affected by bicyclists This is a green scason almost as pro- nouncedly as it is a white season All shades of the clear color are worn, the bright parrot and leaf greens predomi nating. A charming hat for a child is made of white horsehair brald, the different rows having the effect of being ruffled on. T'he hat 2 trimmed with ilies of the valley and a large knot of white ribbon. A pretty outdoor wrap for the small girl is a Little Red Riding Hood and cape. These » of cioth lined. The hood §s gath- ered und the face, but a little long at cither side, not drawing up unpleasantly under the chin. A fairy-like gown of white organdic has for a foundation a slip of white taffet finished at the hem with a plaited rutle, Yoke and high collar are of Valenciennes lace, with a touch of Irish lace nround the base of the collar. The blouse is tucked for fullness and the lower half is incrusted with Valenciennes and Irish lace The skirt has a princess girdle of lace in points, and below this the skirt is tucked. The graduated flounce starts in points from a lace heading which forms a design of points and bow knots on the body of tho skirt. The sleeves are tucked half way to the elbow, whe they are finished with a very aeep poinied rufile, lace trimmed, For and About Women Miss Annie Peck, the mountain climber, has left for Bolivia and says she will not return home undl she has climbed Mount Sorrata and planted her alpenstock upon its hitherto unconguered crest. The author of that well known hymn, “Safc in the Arms of Jesus,” Mrs. Van Alsiyne, has just entered on her eighty- fifth year. In her day she s said (o have produced no fewer than 200y hymns Mme. bet, vif: of the French presi- den , bedeves in coeducation. Kecently at a soclety of French mothers she brought down upon herselfl severe critici by advocating Awerican methods of training girls. Lady Glentworth, an English woman who distinctly remembers seeing the guards march off on theic way to waterl brated her 100tn birthday recently. She has borne her present title for sixty-cight years, Having won the degree of master of arts at the New York university after a three years' course of study, Mrs. Charles H. Truax, wife of Judge Truax, will begin active work in a philanthropic society that will 100k after poor inebriates. Mrs. Sarah Snook of 8t. Joseph 1s Mis- souri’s oldest inhabitant. She is 103 years old. She eats pie, ice cream and other things: walks a mile every du) for exer- cise; as far and re: out gl g S many ycurg people and re- members well many great rs of this country almest a cent celebrated the 1084 annive at, the hone of her dau Jacquay. Mrs. Snook is ville, Ky in Kansas Countess von Waldersee, who was born and educated in this country, has heen writing reminiscences for a Agasin In speaking of Von Moltke she says that more retiring and modest man than V Moitke could not he found He insist upon having the smallest room in the hot of her llllh Mrs. Agnes a pative of Louis- and spent many years of her life for his bed riom, with any do ration in it but the his wif¢ whose memory he devoted his chatean, Creigsau, he ehe Aleo o mod- est room. He buailt there a iolenm for his wi th ey to which was : vs in his pocket, he had fresh Huu: r~ wed there every eima?om/e Insures Pure, Soh White Skin ros Fezema and Tetter, Abe eolutely and Perma removes Blackleads, Fr kles, Pimples, Rodne s, Sune spots and Tan. Usod with ’ Derma-Loyale Soap & Pere foct wkiu is insured, Sold by Druggists, or may be ordered direct. Derms-| lcrynlo. 81 per bottle, eypreas paid, Derma-Rojale MBoap, 25 cents by malle Both in packuge, §1.25, express palde \Portraits and Testimonials sent on yegue:t, One Bottle FREE to Agents, THE DEEMA-ROYALN €O, Clocinuail, Oy