Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, June 21, 1903, Page 26

Collarless Shirt Waist a Hot-Weather Fad . SWEET SIMPLICITY IN A CORDED SILK. appear with the excessive heat which too often marks midsum- mer days. Comfort takes prece- dence over all other things, but the ciever modistes have found a way to combine It with beauty. The result is the collarless blouse. The fashion started last year, and has has widespread growth. As the thermome- ter mounts higher, collarless shirt waists will muitiply In number and increase in baauty. brokdery mnd the sheerest of summer fabrics; they will have a cool appearance in the heottest weather. White is the dominant color, though em- broidery in color is used with dainty effect. Even the heavier linens are made in the collarless fashion. They are more durable and hold thelr shape better than the thin- materials. They are usually orna- N EW YORK, June 19.-New styles ner mented with hemstitching, drawn work or embroldery. A simple Mmen blouse is striped with bands of drawn work half an inch wide. These run three inches apart, up and down on the walst, and around the arm on the Bleeves, The sleeves are elbow length. each finished by a narrow shaped frill edged with the drawn work. A short, roumd collar of solid drawn work finishes the neck: A similar walst was finished at the throat by & black satin string tie and a turnover collar of drawn work. This is a novel way of converting & stock shirt walst Into a col- )Jarless one. The satin tie may be of any shade, and the turnover of lace or em- broidery shows to good advantage over it. The woman with a round, columnar throat can rejolee In these collarless walists, but for her who I8 less fortunate there are standing frills at the neck which are cool and becoming. There are also boned col- lars of open-work lace, or of ribbon or lace lattice work. A dainty blouse of white mull has an over-bodice of black lace insertion lattice work, through whose interstices the white mull folds look delightfully cool. The col- lar I8 also of the lace lattice work. A strip of applique in an open often forms an apology for a collar design It is unhoned, as are the collars on most of the all-over lace walsts. These are formed of a wide strip of lace Insertion and crush down In the wearing One of the applique collars is used on a walst of Perslan lawn. The blouse is orna- mented with wide tucks of the material and with Inch-wide lace Insertion. Two of the tucks meet to form the pleat effect down the front. On either side rows of the in- sertion alternate with clusters of the tucks. The insertion is fancifully applied above the bust to give a round yoke effect. A wide tuck, headed by a band of the inser- tion, runs around the arm six inches below the top of the sleeve. A similar trimming emphasizes the puff just above the mod- erately narrow, tight fitting cuff. This is In net, dotted and plain; lace, em- formed of the tucks and insertion. The blouse ‘s fastened down the back with small pearl buttons. Something of the collarless waist effect is obtained in the blouses which have a narrow standing collar of openwork lace, which is continued down in a shallow rounded or peinted yoke. The collar line, s0 unbecoming to many throats, is thus done away with, A cool blouse of wash silk is made with a certain girlish simplicity. It is almost tight fitting, only blousing slightly in the front over a deep belt of the silk. This latter is rather unusual. It is slashed at intervals to allow flowered ribbon in pastel rhades to be run through and tied In the back in a bow with long loops and ends. The shallow, oddly pointed yoke and the narrow standing collar are in one piece of heavy white lace. The elbow sleeves puff slightly at the bottom over a loose frill cuff of the lace. Elbow sleeves seem the fitting aceom- paniment of the collarless blouse. A geisha walst of white India linen has elbow sieeves A BAND OF APPLIQUE finished by wide ruffles. The linen is tucked to form a yoke. The fullness over the bust is furnished by inch-wide bands of embroidery inserted between the clusters of tucks. Zach band is headed by an em- brodiery medallion in a peacock pattern. Larger medalllons are set as a finish around the neck. The sleeves are ver- tically tucked and the wide, hemstiched rufles are pleated a trifle at the inside arm seam to relieve them of clumsiness. Another elbow sleeve blouse is of white Persian lawn. A wide strip of embroidery, flanked by inch-wide hemstitched tucks, gives a panel effect to the front. Shorter embroidery strips and hemstitched tucks extend down to the bust line on each side. Embroidery finishes the round neck. The sleeves are vertically tucked and their ruffies are finished with hemstitching. Strips of embroidery or applique are fre- quently set on the blouse, ray fashion, to give the effect of a round yoke. They extend a trifle ahave the neck and form a A chic blouse of pale blue dimity is thus finish, DOES SERVICE FOR A COLLAR. trimmed with white applique in o daisy chain pattern. "The strips are set on the tucked yoke so that they meet around the neck. The elbow slecves puff above full ruffles of the material. They are orna- mented with strips of the applique. Scat- tered daisies are set at intervals on the edge of the ruffles, Daisies, whether of hand embroidery or appligue, are favorite summer waists. When they are embroidered in the natural colors they are extremely pretty. The desire for drawn work on the sum- mer blouses has brought about the discov- ery that Mexican drawn work doilies can be used as a dress trimming. A chain of small square doilies can be applied to form a panel front. They are get on diagonally. Smaller doilies finish the neck or ornament the bust line on either side of the front. Small Mexican drawn work wheels can now be obtained for drees trimmings. Entire vokes are made of them. They are often joined by famcy stitehing, thus giving an even more cobwebby effect. HARRIET HAWLEY., flowers on Seven Miles of Wedding Rings HERE have been made and sold in New York in the past year enough wedding rings to reach, if placed one before the other, from the city hall along Broadway to One Hundred and Twentieth street, a distance of about 7.1 miles. This is the estimate of a manufacturer interviewed by the New York Sun. According to his caleulations there have been sent outl in the past year some 600, 000 wedding rings. Of these he has manu- factured more than 200,000, and in their making he has ured an even ton of pure gold. The rings sell from $ to $15, but where they ail go is a mystery to him. “There are only about five wedding ring manufacturers in the eity,” he said, “but these flve are kept constantly busy with orders from all parts of the country, every month in the year “It seems as if everybody In the United States must have been married and pur- chased one of my rings since 1 have been in business, for 1 have sold several million. This is equally true of my compelitor across the street and my competitor up the avenue “Many might suppose that the $15 ring would Le: the one purchased by the millionaire to pregent to his bride, and that the $8 ring would be bought by the work- ingman, but the case is exactly the reverse The workingman scems to want the wed- ding ring that will cover his wife's entire hand, while the wealthier purchaser wants & small ring, so as to allow room for a finger full of diamonds and other gems. “When you talk about style In wedding rings you are talking about something people that does not exist. The station in life de- termines it all. Perhaps the most common and most prevalent varlery, in the past few years at least, is that about three- tenths of an inch In width and weighing six pennyweight.” At this point the manufacturer set out on the counter fifteen or twwenty rings, ranging in width from a cirele no more cumbersome than an engagement ring to the broad, thick band. *“There are your styles,™ he sald. “They vary in diameter from half an inch to an inch, the average being about three- quarters of an inch.” His interviewer did a little figuring on a pad, and announced that 00,000 rings, at three-quarters of an inch in thickness, would make about 450,000 inches, or about 87.500 feet, if placed one before the other. This number of feet divided by 5,280, the number of feet in a mile, would make the total string of rings 7.1 mfles, or the dis- tance from the city hall to One Hundred and Twentieth street in Harlem. “Do yvou imagine the dealer was asked, “that these rings seal 600,000 marriage con- tracts every year?” “No,” he replied “Of late years it has bhecome the custom, and the custom is growing, for hoth parties to a marriage to wear the ring. and this accounts for the increase in the number made and sold. Probably, out of this 600,000 rings sold, from 75,000 to 80,000 are worn by men.” “Do you manufacture engagement rings? The manufacturer smiled, ‘“There 18 & funny thing about that,” he sald. “Last year I sold 15000 wmore engagement rings than wedding rings, and [ suppose my competitors have run about the same. Of course, that places the sale of engagement rings far ahead of the number of wedding rings sold.” “How do you aceount for the difference?"* he was asked. “Well,” he said smilingly, “when a man buys a wedding ring he usually means business, and when he buys an engagement ring, well-well-he may mean anything. And where one man may buy a dozen en- gagement rings, usually one wedding ring is enough for him How this overplus of engagement rings compares with the breach of promise suits I cannot say.” Removes Tan, Pimples Freckles, Moth Patches, ~ Rash and Skin Dlis- Yy case, and every ¢y blemish on beauty, &7 and defies detection. '/ 1t bas stood the test of ffty-five years, and is s0 harmiess we taste It to be sure it s properly made. Accept no counterfeit of simi- lar name. Dr, L ‘A% you use . h‘lul - ) , them, d ‘GOURAUD'S CREA Barmful of all the skiu prepar the et all druggists and fancy goods Btates and Burope. FERD. T. HOPKINS, Prop’s, &7 Qreat Jouss 8L, N. X,